Jeez I go a lot of questions all of a sudden. I started painting on the boat yesterday. I'm doing it piece meal and can only get to a section at a time. I began by pouring half of my quart of epoxy paint into a mixing container. I added the hardener and went to work. I soon realized that I had mixed up about ten times the amount of paint that I needed. There is no danger of running out as I have more but I hate to see it go to waste. What I have now is almost a pint of liquid in a sealed container that has the hardener mixed in. I thought it would be like epoxy and harden up over night but it's still liquid. Can I still use this paint or should I mix up a new batch for the next section?
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Epoxy paint
- Thread starter hoorenga
- Start date
If it has not gone off, there is a problem0--maybe the catalyst was not mixed properly? Do not use it--if it has not gone off now, it will not go off. The epoxy reaction with the catalyst produces heat. Putting it in the freezer might delay the reaction. But I would not chance it.
I assume that you are rolling on a barrier coat on the bottom. If so you will want 3 coats to build it up adequately..
I assume that you are rolling on a barrier coat on the bottom. If so you will want 3 coats to build it up adequately..
journey on
New member
I'm kind of curious. Did the paint that you painted with harden? Usually, when you want to delay the hardening you spread it out a little bit, so the heat doesn't build up. If it didn't harden overnight, I'm surprised.
Boris
Boris
I assumed it was an epoxy paint because there was a seperate container of hardener that came with it. It is labeled "brushing hardener". The paint says it is brushable, two part polyurethane. Directions say it can be applied to clean,lightly sanded fiberglass. It did set up nicely.
Based on that, I'd say you have a two-part polyurethane (maybe something like Awlgrip, Interlux Perfection, Alexseal, or the like?) and not an epoxy. That's good if you're painting topsides or deck, as epoxy can tend to chalk when exposed to UV.
I'm not sure whether you can save the excess paint. My guess would be no, but what I would do is look on the manufacturer's website. Most of them (at least the ones listed above) have good websites with a lot of technical information you can access - plus oftentimes technical help lines you can call if you are still stumped.
Sunbeam
PS: You may already be doing this, but I believe it's important to wear proper gear while working with two-part polyurethanes (at least the ones I know). Gloves, protective clothing, and especially a good cartridge respirator (passive is okay for brushing; spraying calls for positive air type systems).
I'm not sure whether you can save the excess paint. My guess would be no, but what I would do is look on the manufacturer's website. Most of them (at least the ones listed above) have good websites with a lot of technical information you can access - plus oftentimes technical help lines you can call if you are still stumped.
Sunbeam
PS: You may already be doing this, but I believe it's important to wear proper gear while working with two-part polyurethanes (at least the ones I know). Gloves, protective clothing, and especially a good cartridge respirator (passive is okay for brushing; spraying calls for positive air type systems).
Whoa....we need to know what brand, and what specific paint and catalyst.
Two Part Linear Polyurethanes are entirely different than epoxy paints. There are a number of additives which can be added to the base paint, as well as a catalyst. I suspect that you have "perfection".
For starters the boat should be de waxed--using a specific dewaxing solvent. Then the boat well sanded, and any defects repaired with epoxy filler. Next the boat need to be sanded again, then primed with two part epoxy primer, and finally sanded a final time, lightly before applying the two part LP paint. A special tac cloth is used just before you apply the paint.
I don't know what you mean by "sections at a time"--and you used about a pint of paint. Hopefully he did paint an entire side of the boat. There are a lot of tricks using two part LP, but it should be put on continuously overlapping, keeping a "wet edge". You don't want to paint half of a side of the boat. Preferably, you will paint the entire boat at once. The best method is "tip and roll, which often utilizes two people--one rolling the other tipping with a quality brush.
I have sprayed LP (A mast, with days of prep first). I have brushed LP, and Tip and Rolled LP=-mostly on decks and cabin house sides etc. For a hull I employ a professional. She has an assistant, who constantly tends the spray paint hoses, plus looks for sags, runs, holidays etc. She puts two or three coats on in a continuous setting. She also spends weeks getting the boat ready. When done, there is a paint job which looks better than the gel coat--and will last at least 10 years, without waxing. This is expensive.
The best for an amateur to start with is something like TopLac or Brightside (one part)--the two part is called "perfection". Note that most if not all of the two parts recommend application over an epoxy primer. A quart of perfection is about $85 and of Brightside about $45. You really don't want to paint a fiberglass boat until the hull gel coat is pretty well gone.....
Sunbeam is correct--this is toxic stuff. The gal who does our work, wears a suit, plus an external air supply. The charcoal canister type of respirators (which I also use, for small jobs) is OK--but better to have a professional clean air source. You want goggles, a knit stocking cap, and then a full tyvek suit (I wear these for bottom paint and epoxy also). The head sock costs about $2 and the suit about $10. (less in quantity) The respirators start at about $40 and go on up.
Two Part Linear Polyurethanes are entirely different than epoxy paints. There are a number of additives which can be added to the base paint, as well as a catalyst. I suspect that you have "perfection".
For starters the boat should be de waxed--using a specific dewaxing solvent. Then the boat well sanded, and any defects repaired with epoxy filler. Next the boat need to be sanded again, then primed with two part epoxy primer, and finally sanded a final time, lightly before applying the two part LP paint. A special tac cloth is used just before you apply the paint.
I don't know what you mean by "sections at a time"--and you used about a pint of paint. Hopefully he did paint an entire side of the boat. There are a lot of tricks using two part LP, but it should be put on continuously overlapping, keeping a "wet edge". You don't want to paint half of a side of the boat. Preferably, you will paint the entire boat at once. The best method is "tip and roll, which often utilizes two people--one rolling the other tipping with a quality brush.
I have sprayed LP (A mast, with days of prep first). I have brushed LP, and Tip and Rolled LP=-mostly on decks and cabin house sides etc. For a hull I employ a professional. She has an assistant, who constantly tends the spray paint hoses, plus looks for sags, runs, holidays etc. She puts two or three coats on in a continuous setting. She also spends weeks getting the boat ready. When done, there is a paint job which looks better than the gel coat--and will last at least 10 years, without waxing. This is expensive.
The best for an amateur to start with is something like TopLac or Brightside (one part)--the two part is called "perfection". Note that most if not all of the two parts recommend application over an epoxy primer. A quart of perfection is about $85 and of Brightside about $45. You really don't want to paint a fiberglass boat until the hull gel coat is pretty well gone.....
Sunbeam is correct--this is toxic stuff. The gal who does our work, wears a suit, plus an external air supply. The charcoal canister type of respirators (which I also use, for small jobs) is OK--but better to have a professional clean air source. You want goggles, a knit stocking cap, and then a full tyvek suit (I wear these for bottom paint and epoxy also). The head sock costs about $2 and the suit about $10. (less in quantity) The respirators start at about $40 and go on up.
By "sections" I mean I'm doing it one complete area at a time. The top of the boat is it's own piece, sort of like the hood on a car. That's the only major section I'm doing. The other areas I'll be doing are the textured tread areas around the boat on what I guess you could call the deck. They are, for want of a better word, patches of a different color. The rest of the surfaces on the boat should come back with some buffing and wax. The surface on the top was pretty far gone.
Good on doing the full cabin sides at once. For the decks, I have used glass micro beads in the first coat; put on with a roller (brush out in some areas with poor access. The second coat no micro beads--that helps keep the micro beads on place (Micro beads are excellent non skid, without being abrasive as sand is.
What is the brand, and specifics of the paint?
What is the brand, and specifics of the paint?