Down-rigger response time and longer boats.

W

Wood Zeppelin

New member
So, when down-rigger fishing for PNW Salmon, there's this idea that when the fish pops the clip, you should grab you rod as soon as possible. Well of course you should, but the idea is that your line goes from two sides of a triangle when in the down-rigger straight to the hypotenuse (3rd side of the triangle). That means there will be slack, so we reel it up as fast as possible.

As I've played around with both a 16 Angler and a 16 Cruiser, I notice in the Cruiser I can get to the rod faster (shorter cockpit). Maybe a difference of 2 seconds? I imagine in a 22, a few more seconds.

QUESTION: Does anyone have experience (especially those with longer boats) actually having fish pop the clip and then be lost before you get to the rod!?

If so, would going from a 16' to a 22' make a significant difference in the lost fish count?
 
I've trolled for Salmon and Lake Trout a few times on Lake Michigan, and also at Isle Royale NP in Lake Superior. With downriggers about 60' down, and fishing line let out about 30 feet behind the downrigger release clip. I'll try to set the poles with as little blow back as possible, and a pretty good rod bend at the top. And I troll just barely below 3mph. I've had a few line trips. Maybe a fish bite, or more likely too much blowback and rod spring stress on the release as I've set it. However, usually if I know I have a fish and loose it, it's while reeling the fish in. My thought process is, just the fish taking the lure and tripping the release is likely setting the hook then. The times I've seen the rod straighten out, it's been for a very brief moment, before it's bent over again with the fish on it. So actually, I think it's good to take those few seconds before you grab the rod. Then again, my knack at catching fish is not something to crow about! :mrgreen: Colby
 
Size of the cockpit really doesn't matter if you are close to the rod. I sit next to the rod and have my finger on the rod line. I never watch for a strike but feel for the loss of tension. When the fish hits the bait, I am right there and crank the handle of the reel like crazy to tighten the line and bring up slack. When the line tightens, simply pull the rod from its holder and bring up the fish. I understand your question but to have a larger cockpit in sq. ft. area is always a benefit and so I would think fishing from a 22 Angler would be my preference. My wife (Colleen) Captains the vessel while we fish out of Newport, Oregon. I watch her line which is on the port side so that she can respond to a strike on her rod when it occurs. Great question!
 
I like to only drop back my bait/lure about 15 feet behind the boat before clipping into the downrigger release. This allows the least amount of slack to the rod after a fish hooks up and pulls the line from the release. Of course, I reel up all the tension so the rod loads up well.
I have fished on many boats, length doesn't matter and when a fish is on, it's surprising how fast one can move to get to the rod!
 
Your gonna miss some no matter how close to the rods you are. That's why they call it "fishing" not "catching". You will miss more of them when you are fishing 150' deep
Like Gary said, start reeling as fast as you can before taking pole out of holder. until the line tightens up then pull the rod and set the hook. That is the fastest way to take out the slack.
 
Just got back from fishing at a lodge in BC. Always interesting to hear the guide's opinion of what to do. Most of them slowly begin to realize that I have years more fishing experience than they do. My last time out the newbie guide talked a little about fishing experiences and then actually asked me what I would be doing were I setting the downriggers, etc.

I'm not a fan of the "run in circles scream and shout" method of downrigger fishing. And not a fan of the "what will be will be" method. Something in between. In my experience, guides set the clips too tight. It is inconvenient for them to have one pop off from catching some seaweed, but it usually has to be brought in and checked anyway. Pop it off and let in come up through the water column before reeling in. You might learn where the fish are holding. Most reel in, re-bait, and send it back down to the same level, missing the opportunity to explore.

I set my clips quite loose, but not so loose that you can't crank down to get just the right amount of flex in the pole (the Goldilocks method). The fish hits, the clip releases, and the flex of the pole sends a nice little yank down the line even though it isn't a straight line between pole end and bait/lure. That's enough to set a sharp hook. Don't believe me? Test a pole snap like that with the hook against your pants or finger. Get enough penetration?

Your choice. A: Get to the pole in .3 seconds, yank the rod out of the holder, yank on the rod to release the clip, yank on the rod to "set the hook," reel like crazy hoping that it's "still there." B: Walk over to the pole and reel in the slack, if any.

The advent of barbless hooks has changed things in most people's minds. Winch it in and get it in the net. Really takes some of the fun out.
 
MarcoF makes some good points.
Allow me to share what I've learned about downrigger fishing after over a decade of spending my summers getting folks of all abilities into fish. we'd bring in about a 1,000 salmon in a typical summer.
* the length of the boat wont matter but you do need to be in the vicinity of the rod and paying attention
* on scotty clips you have a choice of two settings, run with the setting that allows you to load the rod without the release tripping
* if the scotty release keeps tripping clean the yellow line gripping pads with an alcohol wipes, or replace them
* run the your gear 15-20' behind the clip, this allows for less tangles and less slack in the line when it releases
* I like to use a 9' downrigger rod. A longer downrigger specific rod will allow you to have your rod bent in nearly a U shape when you're trolling and will take a lot of the slack out of the line when it trips
* don't set the hook, it will be set when the fish grabs the lure, and don't pump the rod like you where fighting a marlin. Hold the rod steady and let it act like a shock absorber and DON'T stop reeling and turn around and say "i think it's gone" it will be. the fish is probably running towards the boat and the line has to come in anyway
* if the fish gets off.....if I recall....I think....ya....nobody that I know of ever starved to death over the winter due to losing that fish, enjoy the the day.

my 2 cents , I know you're just asking about boat length and probably know this stuff already, I just had an urge to write this morning :)
 
B~C":25zu6ckk said:
MarcoF makes some good points.
Allow me to share what I've learned about downrigger fishing after over a decade of spending my summers getting folks of all abilities into fish. we'd bring in about a 1,000 salmon in a typical summer.
* the length of the boat wont matter but you do need to be in the vicinity of the rod and paying attention
* on scotty clips you have a choice of two settings, run with the setting that allows you to load the rod without the release tripping
* if the scotty release keeps tripping clean the yellow line gripping pads with an alcohol wipes, or replace them
* run the your gear 15-20' behind the clip, this allows for less tangles and less slack in the line when it releases
* I like to use a 9' downrigger rod. A longer downrigger specific rod will allow you to have your rod bent in nearly a U shape when you're trolling and will take a lot of the slack out of the line when it trips
* don't set the hook, it will be set when the fish grabs the lure, and don't pump the rod like you where fighting a marlin. Hold the rod steady and let it act like a shock absorber and DON'T stop reeling and turn around and say "i think it's gone" it will be. the fish is probably running towards the boat and the line has to come in anyway
* if the fish gets off.....if I recall....I think....ya....nobody that I know of ever starved to death over the winter due to losing that fish, enjoy the the day.

my 2 cents , I know you're just asking about boat length and probably know this stuff already, I just had an urge to write this morning :)
Click to expand...


This is great stuff, thanks! I haven't caught 1000 salmon yet, but I pretty much agree with all of this. Two things though:

NOTE: I Usually fish alone...

(1) I used to like my clips to hold tight, figuring that would give a secure and automatic "hook set". Now I am inclined to set them very lightly.. because if there's seaweed or shakers, I'd rather have it pop than drag that stuff through the water and not actually be fishing. Because I fish alone a lot (can't watch my rod all the time), I might not notice these things. Any thoughts on this?

(2) In a 16C, I can drive, look at the electronics, and watch my (port side) pole a fair amount all from the drivers seat. And get to it quickly. Now, if I was to get a 22C or 22A, I won't really be in the vicinity of the rod anymore. I guess this goes back to my original question. Would I be too far away from my rod?
 
Rear view camera, or rear view mirror on the fishing rod is one way. Also easy to make an alarm, using a normally closed micro switch., with a plastic wedge holding it open, and when the rod straightens, the plastic wedge pulls out and sets off a auditory alarm.
 
When fishing on my 22C I much prefer using the kicker, 1st, I can (read have to) steer right from the cockpit and stay within a couple feet of my rod, and second I don't put wear on the main engines since the kicker does great at low speed anyway.
 
Lots of good advice. When fishing alone I also sometimes throttle up a little when a fish hits, until I can see it’s a solid hookup.
I’d like to tell people that I have a tiny boat because I land more fish than folks in larger boats, but I’m really jonezing for a 22 angler too :wink:
 
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