Doryman's Meanderings

Waiting out the cold front

We decided to stay a few extra days here in Tierra Verde to give the panhandle a chance to warm up a bit after this last cold front passed through. This is the same cold front that brought snow to Alabama.

Yesterday I took the truck to the dealership to have a couple of minor warranty issues resolved and to get the oil changed. The truck has sensors in the tires that transmit the pressure to the dashboard -- a great idea in theory, but in practice it leaves much to be desired. If the tire pressures vary very much from the programmed values (which are not user-changeable) I get messages telling me that one or the other of my rear tires has only 1 pound of pressure. It's a PITA to have to keep making these warning messages go away. Other than that, I have been very happy with this GMC Duramax with the Allison transmission. I've been able to get up to 22 MPG on flat highways, and when towing the Tom Cat I've gotten up to 12 MPG.

There are quite a few liveaboards in the Tierra Verde marina, and from talking to a number of them, have learned something of the history of this deteriorating facility. From what I hear, this was once one of the finest marinas in the area. Up until about 7 or 8 years ago, the facility consisted of the marina, a dry stack boat storage, a timeshare condo, 2 or 3 restaurants, and a pool with a dance floor/lounge. Apparently the owner at that time got tired of all the management necessary for all these services and sold out to an investor who intended to flip the $20M purchase. From what I understand they could not do that right away, as various stakeholders and leaseholders had to be bought out. In the meantime, the economy tanked and now the marina is slowly falling apart, the timeshares are vacant magnets for homeless and worse (none now, fortunately) and the dry stack business is the only thing making money. What is really sad is that when the economy recovers, all of the current facility will be torn down and replaced by eight-story condo units. Very sad, but a common fate for marinas everywhere.

You may have read in your local news about the small single-engine 21' center console boat that capsized while anchored in 30-50' waters, 38 miles offshore from here near Egmont Key. Passengers included two NFL players and two former South Florida football players, who had gone out fishing for Amberjack. When the boat was found, only one of the 4 was still holding on to it. The others lost their grip in the 6-foot seas after 12-16 hours in the water and are still missing. It is common knowledge that cold fronts here can turn the Gulf from 2 foot waves to 8 foot in 15 minutes. Another boat following the 4 men turned back after the seas increased to 6 feet in 20 minutes. It took them 2-1/2 hours to battle their way back to shore.

I find the shallow waters here much more intimidating than what I am used to in the PNW because you are much more constrained in where you can go -- unless you have a shallow-draft boat you are by and large confined to the marked channels. Wind has a much greater effect here on wave height and on tide depths because the shallow depth of the Gulf. Although I am enjoying the warmer weather and the sunshine, I now have a greater appreciation for what we have in the PNW.

Warren
 
Warren,

Good to see you post again. The differences between Florida and the Pacific Northwest are many, but they are why we travel and enjoy the entire country. We have Summered in the Northwest three different years, and plan to return. We love the Gulf Coast, and have Wintered here for the last 5 years. Two years in Florida, and 3 years in Texas. You just need to be flexable, slow down, and take each day as it comes. We spent the Winters of 2002 and 2003 in Baja Mexico, and would love to do that again when the political situation there allows.

In Texas we park the TomCat and use either an aluminum Jon Boat, or our inflatable dingy for the really skinny water. The TomCat is great for the GIWW, and bays, but not the flats.

Brent
 
Apalachicola, FL Revisited

We have been in Apalachicola for a several days now, but have been either busy or under the weather, but I am finally getting caught up.

This is the neatest town I have been in on this trip. It is an old, funky Florida town on what is referred to as the "Forgotten Coast" of Florida. You may recall that we stopped her briefly on our way down to the Keys, to have Marc and his crew at Wefings dewinterize the Tom Cat and make a few modifications for us. This time we are in the water at the Water Street Hotel & Marina, a new hotel on the edge of town with a new, small marina. It has, wonder of wonders, floating docks -- much appreciated by those of us who go to the sea in boats smaller than trawlers. Strangely, there is only one rest room for the entire marina -- but it is a nice one and seldom in use. Only once have I not been able to get into the rest room when desired. By far, the biggest and basically only negative aspect of our stay here has been the no-see-ums. They are around all the time, but are out in force at dusk. Both Lori and I have been bitten numerous times, resulting in many ugly, red bites that resist a variety of anti-itch remedies.

The day we arrived we contacted Marc, who helped us launch the boat and then went out with me to evaluate whether it had the right props. I was gratified to find out that Marc said it was set up correctly. After checking in at the marina, we joined Marc, his wife Anita, and friend Cory Gracey (from Lake Stevens, WA, who delivers boats all over the country with his pickup and 50-foot transporter trailer) for dinner at Marc's house. Marc is a mean cook who whipped up a showcase meal of Floriday seafood: including tuna sashimi, oysters raw and cooked, and shrimp. Turns out that in a previous life, Marc ran several restaurants.

The next day Marc and Cory and I went out to the barrier islands separating Apalachicola Bay from the Gulf of Mexico. We spent the several hours fishing for Sheepshead and Black Drum with moderate success. After we returned from fishing, Cory gave Lori lessons in handling the Tom Cat that I also learned much from.

The day after that Lori and I went out with a local guide to St. Vincent's Island (a large wildlife refuge) and Bird Island. We caught quite a few whiting and two redfish (which unfortunately we had to release because they were bigger than the maximum size allowable. I caught the first one, which weighed about 8 pounds. Then Brad, Charles' grandson who was with us, tied into a monster redfish which he battled for a good 15 or 20 minutes. Photos of both fishing trips can be found here:


20090307_0043_WK_Apalachicola.thumb.jpg

After all the fishing activity we had a couple of days of R&R. Tomorrow we are taking the Tom Cat out for fishing. We plan to spend a couple of days taking photos on the road from Talahassee to Apalachicola while the boat goes back to Wefings to have the pumpout access moved to a more accessible location. Then the boat goes back into the water and we will cruise the Intracoastal Waterway to Pensacola.

We definitely hope to return to Apalachicola. It is everything I hoped to find in Florida. I am glad we experienced South Florida -- now we know what the Keys are like, and Naples and St. Petersburg. But the only area of South Florida that would draw us back is the Pass-A-Grille area of St. Petersburg.
 
So did the crew from Washington notice that those nice floating docks at Water Street are a Bellingham product? And here's another plug for Tamara's. You won't be sorry.

Greg
 
Oh, yes we notice right off that the docks were from Bellingham.

As for Tamara's -- the coffee establishment across the street has closed and moved over to Tamara's. The woman who runs it is very abrasive so I do not enjoy going in there even though the food is good.

We had a very unsatisfactory breakfast at Caroline's, if you are familiar with that establishment (near Boss Oyster.) However, we do enjoy eating at the place on the corner where the stoplight is, as well as some others in town.

Warren
 
Dolores's [the purple place by the stoplight] rocks . What you see is what you get !Sorry to hear that Cafe Con Leche is not friendly . Tamara's at night and lunchtime is a different deal . Piggly Wiggly has country soul food breakfast . Not cardiologist recommended but shall we say, filling and good ? Biscuits and Gravy ,with sausage ...........
A post mortem plug for David at Ave Sea at the Gibson . World class chef , world class breakfast, dinner and pub food, but closed [they are not dead , just moved on]after the first of the year. I know a few folks got to enjoy his fare [Jeff Messmer and Andrew Custis from Ranger to mention a few], and we miss them dearly . The new chef is from Maui and we havent tested breakfast yet . Warren ? A review ????????Oh and you guys make killer docks in Bellingham.Wish they were everywhere .
Marc
 
Port St. Joe, FL

We left Apalachicola with regret this afternoon, having enjoyed our stay there and with plans to return in a couple of years. We'd like to stay at the Water Street Hotel (we had the opportunity to stay there while Wefings worked on our boat and were very impressed with the amenities in these 2 bed, 2 bath condo units.) Marc, and others, have rental boats available for use in Apalachicola Bay, so we would be able to go fishing and otherwise enjoy life on the water.

We took the Intracoastal waterway a short distance up the river to a canal that leads down to Port St Joe, where we are ensconced for the night. Tomorrow (Wednesday) our plan is to return up the canal to the ICW and continue on to Fort Walton Beach. The plan for Thursday is to cover the remaining distance to Pensacola. On Friday or Saturday Bob Austin has very generously offered to drive me back to Apalachicola to pick up the truck and the trailer.

We'll be in Pensacola until Sunday. We are pretty burned out and ready to head home, so we are going to forgo a stop in Tucson and head more or less directly for Washington. Hopefully all the late spring snow storms we have been reading about will have run their course by the time we get home!
 
Ft. Walton Beach, FL

We covered about 110 miles on the ICW today, most of it at about 25 mph. The boat is running sweetly and handles wonderfully on the river as well as the bays.

We had the pleasure of meeting a young couple, with 2 kids, from Galveston who were also at the marina in Port St. Joe with their Tom Cat, Fish 'n' Cat. He is a NASA engineer and she is an anesthesiologist. He designed an awesome bimini for the Tom Cat that is probably strong enough to put a 16 on -- IOW, well engineered! He also constructed a bunk bed in the dinette for the kids. He has been on the site and I encouraged him to post photos of his mods.

Warren
 
In Pensacola Again

We arrived in Pensacola on Thursday after taking the Intracoastal Waterway from Apalachicola with stops at Port St. Joe and Fort Walton Beach. Those of you who got my SPOT messages saw that the ICW route took us through rivers and bays, but not the open ocean, to Pensacola. The rivers were dredged unforrmly to at least 11'8", and frequently as deep as 15'. The bays were well-marked with channel markers, and were usually at least 11'8" deep (the minimum depth set by the Corps of Engineers)

On Friday Bob Austin (Dr. Bob of Thataway) and I left at 9 AM to drive to Panama City to see Marc Groves' (Wefings) boats in the water at the boat festival. We spent most of our time poking around the new Ranger 29. We did not have time for a sea trial as we had to hit the road again to get through the throngs of college kids on spring break in Panama City (no girls gone wild, unfortunately!) We arrived in Apalachicola about 3:30 PM and immediately turned around for the return to Pensacola. We decided it would be faster to bypass Panama City by heading north to the Interstate. I don't know how long it would have taken us to go through Panama City again, but neither of us got home until about 8 PM.

The trip was hard on both of us. It aggravated Bob's bad back and in my case it sent me to the ER the next day. For a couple of weeks my left knee had been stiff, probably twisted from climbing in and out of the boat to the fixed docks that are common here. On Saturday I could not walk at all. I had to lean on Lori to get up the dock to the truck. At the ER they determined from the X-Rays that nothing was broken and most likely I had sprained my knee. I think that the drive to Apalachicola and back, where I could not move my leg appreciably for 11 hours, probably pushed my knee over the edge. They gave me some pain pills, crutches and wrapped my knee.

Saturday night Lori and I joined Bob and Marie for an excellent dinner at a local seafood restaurant -- I think it was called the Crab Shack. Today was laundry and boat-cleaning in preparation for our departure tomorrow morning. This afternoon I drove to Bob's house and went out with him on Thataway to see his home waters. We had a bit of unscheduled excitement when one of the Suzuki 150s shut down and would not respond even after changing the fuel filter. We returned home to Bob's house with one engine. He called later this evening to tell us he had found the problem -- water in the fuel system.

We are putting the boat back on the trailer for the last time tomorrow and are hitting the road west, with stops in Flagstaff, AZ and Salt Lake City. We should be home by April 7th or thereabouts.
 
Warren it was great to meet you and Lori Ann , and hope you enjoyed our part of Florida . We hope to see you here again soon ! Safe travels ,
Marc
 
Warren, if you are headed this way I do hope you are hanging way south until you get around CO, UT, WY and maybe even OK. Might of been a good week to hangout with Mark or Dr Bob (if the weather Channel is even close to half right). Travel safe, and speed easy.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
hardee":32ajkit8 said:
Warren, if you are headed this way I do hope you are hanging way south until you get around CO, UT, WY and maybe even OK. Might of been a good week to hangout with Mark or Dr Bob (if the weather Channel is even close to half right). Travel safe, and speed easy.

Thanks for the heads up, Harvey. We are in Flagstaff visiting Lori's brother and will be heading up to Brent and Dixie's tomorrow. Tuesday we head to Salt Lake where we will hole up until the weather to the PNW looks good. Wundermap seems to think we will have good driving weather for those first two legs of the trip. Keep your fingers crossed!

Warren
 
He got a good week, a bit over a week ago. This last week was not a good on the Gulf Coast--we had heavy winds, over 8" of rain in some areas, lots of lightning--etc. Days in between storms were OK--and a couple of good days now. Always good to See Warren and visit with him. Boating is great--its the driving that kills you!
 
Since I enjoy driving as much as I do, (of Course boating is better) maybe :idea: I should hire out for making those long haul deliveries :smileo cross country for you, and you just meet your rig all washed up and clean :rainbow at the opposite corner of the country, :hot after a proper days airplane ride :thup

Harvey
SleepyC
 
I like driving, too, but trailering is not as much fun!

We are in Salt Lake, after a couple of days visiting Lori's brother in Flagstaff. We were hoping to make it to Brent and Dixie's place for the night but we ended up spending the night dry camping in a pullout north of Kamas. Boy, was it chilly. When we woke up at 6 the temperature readout in the truck said it was 15 degrees. We were warm in the berth, but the Wallas did not do much damage to the cold.

Warren
 
Warren and Lori,

Sorry we missed you. Are you going to get over to Jeff and Jo's to see the CD-22' while your in SLC. Yes it's been cold here in central Utah. Nights in the teens and days in the 40's and 50's, but that's the norm until May.

Brent
 
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