Distance Trailer Towing without the Boat

J

jlgray

New member
We will be dropping our boat in the Mississippi for an extended boat trip and then bringing the truck and trailer about 1,000 miles to meet it. When I have done a shorter trip, the empty trailer bounced so much it made for a very uncomfortable ride.

What can we do to make the ride smoother? I have heard of reducing the air pressure in the trailer tires or carrying a sizable weight on the trailer.
 
Hello,
I would make sure to have all the wheels on the trailer balanced. Lower the air pressure to lowest recomended setting. I'm guessing about thirty pounds. The weight thing would calm things down but outside of some sort of water tank that you could drain I'm at a loss. Good Luck!
D.D.
 
If you have electric/hydraulic brakes, remember to turn the gain down on the brake controller. Or you'll smoke the tyres.

We've towed our empty trailer over several bouncy roads and it tracked well. Don't have any specific answers, but it's a 7500# E-Z Loader, and a 3/4 ton truck.

Good luck, Boris
 
jlgray":22sm7otl said:
What can we do to make the ride smoother? I have heard of reducing the air pressure in the trailer tires or carrying a sizable weight on the trailer.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't put any substantial weight on the trailer because it can only drop fuel mileage accordingly. I would, however, lower the tire pressures and balance the tires as recommended by the posters ahead of me.

Our dual axle Pacific trailer seems to track quite well and I've never felt any trailer bouncing transmitted to the tow vehicles I've used it with while empty.

2003 4Runner
2001 Silverado 2500
2006 E450 based Class C motorhome

Don
 
wonder if it is the type of suspension which is causing the "bouncing" issue. I have had that with some trailers in the past--but last year, towing an empty trailer 1200 miles it was no problem. This trailer had torsion axles, which seemed to cause less "bounce".

I believe that most of the mileage reduction is when pulling a trailer on level ground--is wind resistance. With some weight on the trailer and without wind resistance increase, the decrease in mileage will be much less than with the boat on the trailer.

On the other hand--it is often not practical to put weight on the trailer. Sand? Water? what do you put the "ballast" on or in?

I agree, drop the air pressure, and maybe drive slower...Incidently some of the freeways have segments which cause bounce, even with the boat on the trailer.
 
A tandem or triple axle trailer will tow much more evenly than a single axle trailer, which has much more of a tendency to bounce around on it's single point of contact on each side of the trailer.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I would drop the air pressure and remove the tires from the front axle. I would think a heavier tandem trailer would run smoother, when empty on two tires than it would on four. Make sure you have clearance at the hubs. You even get a free set of spare tires for the trip. :thup Just strap em over the back axle for more weight.

Twice the tires = twice the bounce for every bump. My aluminum I beam tandem bounces like a basketball just going across the parking lot after a launch.

If you have side bunks. You might run a strap or rope across the front and rear of those to keep tension. This will help cut down on those vibrating back and forth when the trailer bounces.
 
I vote with Joe--the tandem axle trailers are smoother when towed light. The more road contact--just be sure that both wheels are equally on the ground--and that may mean a different tongue height. Many trailers will run on one set of wheels when unloaded--and this may be the case in your trailer when you ran light before.
 
I have one single, two tandem, and one triple axle trailer, and the tandems and triple run much smoother than the single unloaded. The triple is even significantly smoother than the two tandems!

That experience, plus the logical analysis of why the increased number of axles resist bouncing around on a single tire on each side, led me to my post above.

The more axles you have, the more the trailer will "crawl" over the humps, bumps, and potholes. This is opposed to the single axle trailer where a single wheel / point of contact on each side "launches" on each significant road irregularity.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I agree with C-WEED, just run tires on one axle. Less chance of brake lock up, the tires are less likely to start cupping and the tires and suspension will be a little closer to their designed load. Many semi-trailers have air lift axles for just that reason.
 
There are apparently at least two or more different theories as to how to best get a good ride out of an empty trailer.

I suspect that the best method may depend on your exact combination of trailer and tow vehicle, so the recommendation would be to try the various suggestions and see which one works best for your set up and driving style.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Interesting, that the folks who propose running on one axle, have 22's--lighter boats and trailers, than those of us who have larger trailers, more like what the Ranger Tug will have.

I can see lots of problems with pulling the wheels and holding up the axles--not sure that brake lock up is more likely with the wheels off. I don't know about the cupping. I did have some of that on my trandem last year--no load for 1200 miles--about 4000 miles with a load--and the wear didn't show up until we were near the end of the trip. I have also had cupping on the front wheels of my Honda Pilot which I have towed behind my RV more than I have driven.

I thought that the lift axles were for over load--not taking wheels off the road when traveling light....At least that is how they are used in Florida.
 
One variable is the trailer itself. My I-beam aluminum (like many 18 wheeler flatbeds) will arch up in the middle like a giant leaf spring when empty. And then sag in the middle when loaded. I am sure this adds springy bounce when empty.

I think the greatest result will come from airing down the tires. But the four suspension points that are designed for heavy weight when unloaded make for a rigid spring board. By removing two wheels this would unload two stiff suspension points. Additionally it will increase the weight on the two remaining wheels and springs/torsion pivot points. In theory giving a softer ride.

Without seeing the trailer it is hard to say which tires to remove. I would think the front tires removed would be better for a longer wheelbase and ground clearance at the hubs. While not scientific I am waving my hand like the trailer bouncing down the road. And it seems like having the tongue elevated slightly high would pull the rear of the trailer down (at 70 mph) to the ground better when it bounces rather than level or tong low attitude. Once the boat is unloaded the tongue might be just about right. Maybe you can just flip your receiver over for an adjustment if needed. Tongue high would add clearance to the front hubs if the tires are removed as well.

One thing that wasn't mentioned was the tow vehicle. I assume 3/4 or one ton with the R-tug. Some weight in the bed (if a truck) would help smooth the empty trailer also. If you get a slight hop in the rear of the truck bouncing (Like an empty dually) it can then resonate between the hitch and the axle. Causing some serious ripple/vibration bouncing thru the whole trailer frame. Airing down the tow vehicles rear tires would be a big help as well for the empty run.

For the sake of science (and the rest of us) maybe some experimintation is in order?

I wouldn't even fool with the jack. Just loosen lug nuts. Pull trailer over two boards and in less than 5 minutes drop two wheels. John is already disatisfied with the empty ride on four wheels. If two wheels is worse just pop them back on. One more advantage. If you run any toll roads you might save an axle fee running two trailer wheels. :thup
 
While I do have a small boat I used to drive trucks up to 101,000# GVW, more if the weigh cops weren't looking. Some technology has changed in the last 20 years but the basics are still the same. At least around here lift axles are considered a component of the suspension package, rather than overloads.
As far as common boat trailer suspensions, unless there is a walking beam equalizer between the springs chances are running with tires on one axle should work. Even with an equalizer it could be made to work without much work.
It would be a good idea to see if the brake drums or rotors need to be secured with the lug nuts or bolts when the wheels aren't used.
Going from two axles to one will *double the traction, three to one will *triple the grip, greatly reducing the potential of a skid. (*approximately) It can be suprisingly difficult to detect locked up tires on an empty trailer especially if one of the tires retains it's grip.
Tire cupping has been challenging tire and suspension engineers for decades. It is still a common issue on trucks and trailers even with the best equipment. Once started it can be impossible to arrest.
 
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