Dingies & Tenders

[thataway]

Some further details on the Gaurhauer davit side mounts:
Consider that these are mock ups--and that the distance and angles may not be precise, but this shows the concept.


This is the Guarheur davit with the ball foot for lower support, and the ring for the upper support, also showing the alternate cleating arrangement.



This is the Sea Fit, rod holder and plate which mounts on the side of the hull. When the rod or mount for the ball foot of the davit is not in place, only the plate is visiable on the boat--this is thru bolted with a back up plate.






Mock up of the SS mount to hold the ball foot for the davit.



SS plate which is to be bolted to the side of the boat--and only part showing when the ball mount or rod holder is not in place.



The mock up being put into the plate on the side of the boat.



Ring mount thru bolted to the lip on the cabin above the mout for the foot.

 

[Doryman]

Some further details on the Gaurhauer davit side mounts:

Hey, Bob! Thanks very much! :thup :thup :thup :beer :beer :beer

Warren

 

[thataway]

Warren,
I will have to use a plumb bob to get the absolute correct angle--but what I did is close. I would recommend mock up with either 1/8" plywood or cardboard and hot glue. I find that welders work better if the mock up is precise.

A couple of comments about the Genesis and the 2 hp Honda.

The Genesis is a good solution for an RIB--lighter than many that size (except perhaps alunimum bottom RIB boats)--the material does not wear or scratch as much as fiberglass. But, I think getting a 110 lb boat into the cockpit of a CD 25 would be quite a job, unless you have some type of lift. RIB's are better than soft bottoms if you are regularly landing on rocky or barnacle infested beaches. We put sacrificial strips of fiberglass on our RIB when using it in Alaska. but we have also seen RIB's glass worn thru by sand in the Caribbean. You may want to make some gunnel guard material--to protect the sides of the boat if you bring the boat aboard.

The Honda 2hp is an love them or hate them motor. I had one, and I didn't like it. The centrifical clutch was a pain. It would not engage until the engine was reved up, and I could not idle it down without dropping the clutch. This was enough of a problem I considered it a safety issue. It was noiser than some of the other motors I have owned. Several of my friends have had the same experience as I have with the Honda 2's. Also--if the wind is strong, 2 hp may not be enough power to push an inflatable against the wind. I have a 2.5 hp Suzuki 4 stroke which weighs 2 lbs more than the Honda but I prefer a 3.5 hp 2 stroke--about the same weight and a bit more hp. I agree that the air cooling would seem to be a good idea.

 

[Adeline]

I ended up getting a variant of this on Craig's List. 4 horses, 33 pounds, twin cylinders, twist-grip throttle. Very smooth running little motor.

 

[matt_unique]

...

We just got our second Garhauer davit (30" arm) and are in the proces of having a mount made which will allow this davit to put an inflatble on the roof of the TC or CD--This mount will fit on the cabin side (either side) and will allow the hoist to put the dinghy on the roof, pick up a person over board and put them in the cockpit and pick any item up from the dock into the cockpit or cabin top.

...

Hi Bob,
Is this the 150lb capacity davit? In your experience, could this unit lift more than its rating, i.e. a 180lb MOB for example? I thought I also read a post once where you mentioned Marie could lift you up by herself with this davit. Is there a line lock if you needed to lift, then rotate the arm to place the person/gear into the cockpit?

Thanks

 

[thataway]

Depending on where you read the specs the Garhauer davit is rated at 150 to 300 lbs. I am currently closser to 150 than 200 (thanks to a restarunt in Lordsberg NM). I feel that this davit would lift me.

The standard 26" arm has the top cam cleat. This 34" arm has both the cam cleat on the top, and an extra block on the upper pole section plus a jam cleat below that--so either pulling directly horizontally or straight down, the line can be cleated. The blocks are way over kill for 200 lbs, and I suspect rated at over 800 lbs per block, so the only issue would be the SS arm itself.

I do carry an extra 6:1 block and tackle, which could be hooked onto the lifting point and bring a dinghy or person aboard, even if the boat was heeled to one side.

We have not yet done so--but will probably put a sail boat winch on the aft deck on the stb side (opposite the shower)--I have found that handy when anchoring or warping a vessel to a point--left over from the sailing days, where we used spring lines and the cockpit winches to bring a boat into the dock against wind and current.

 

[Doryman]

I do carry an extra 6:1 block and tackle, which could be hooked onto the lifting point and bring a dinghy or person aboard, even if the boat was heeled to one side..

I'm not visualizing what you have in mind here. Why would the block and tackle on the davit itself be not usable?

We have not yet done so--but will probably put a sail boat winch on the aft deck on the stb side (opposite the shower)--I have found that handy when anchoring or warping a vessel to a point--left over from the sailing days, where we used spring lines and the cockpit winches to bring a boat into the dock against wind and current.

I'm guessing that the idea of using the winch with the block and tackle on the davit is to help someone like Marie to haul you aboard? Wouldn't you also need some sort of cam cleat to keep the line under tension?

Warren

 

[thataway]

We carry the block and tackle because it is light and easy to use--with a rolling hitch to break out an anchor, or pull the boat in, if there is a heavy wind etc.

The idea is that when the boat is heeled to one side--with the weight of a person out 34" from the gunnel and the other person on that side of the boat--the geometry or the davit would pull the davit arm at right angles to the boat. The hoisting line on the davit has a jam cleat for downward pull and double cam cleats for horizontal pull--see the photo.

The 6:1 block and tackle would be secured to the opposite side of the boat--the second person would stand on the other side, and pull to bring the person aboard--probably secure a line from the block and tackle to the aft cleat on the other side. There is a cam cleat, as in a sailboat's mainsail sheet, incorporated in the block and tackle-(one of the block sets was from a mainsail sheet).

A block and tackle is limited in the length of pull, especially with a 6:1--for 6 feet of pull you need 36 feet of line (+). With a winch, you can use an anchor line or long line to warp a boat. We used these often when we were going med moor to ease the boat to the docks. For example we often tie stern to shore--with the motor raised up. During the heavy storm winds on Lake powell, if we wanted to pull the boat in closer to the beach, it would have been handy to have just cranked on a winch. Many of these winches are "self tailing"--and this will act as a jam cleat to hold the line, temporally.

 

[centerisland]

I almost bought a used Puffin aluminum RIB today:
http://www.southern-pacific.co.uk/products/puffin-lightweight-rib.html
I wish I _had_ bought it, but the seller was not being honorable and I chose to just walk away.

Anyway, I've been using a 3.10 Avon rollaway as a dinghy this summer, and have yet to find a way to make it work for us. My wife isn't really strong enough to be much help getting it on top of the house. It's too wide to haul over the stern (we have a 22' Osprey I/O) and leave there on the engine cover. It's too long to go on Weaver davits on the swimstep without interfering with the kicker. It doesn't really track well for towing.

So this little lightweight aluminum RIB looked perfect. Smaller, an eyebolt through the keel for towing, a full-length gaurd over the keel. So aparently this kind of boat (also made by Aquapro) is huge in AU/NZ - why aren't there any here in the US?

 

[matt_unique]

...

The idea is that when the boat is heeled to one side--with the weight of a person out 34" from the gunnel and the other person on that side of the boat--the geometry or the davit would pull the davit arm at right angles to the boat. The hoisting line on the davit has a jam cleat for downward pull and double cam cleats for horizontal pull--see the photo.

The 6:1 block and tackle would be secured to the opposite side of the boat--the second person would stand on the other side, and pull to bring the person aboard--probably secure a line from the block and tackle to the aft cleat on the other side. There is a cam cleat, as in a sailboat's mainsail sheet, incorporated in the block and tackle-(one of the block sets was from a mainsail sheet).

...

Thanks Bob, I plan to add this lifting davit to lift heavy dive hear (110 lbs of double tanks with ss backplate, etc.) and for MOB situations.

In terms of the boat heeling over, perhaps I'm not understanding what you mean. If the heel angle was an issue while pulling someone in, it would seem the line is long enough for the person aboard to walk to the other side of the cockpit to pull no?

Thanks

 

[Sea Wolf]

Just a passing thought for consideration:

If lifting power is a major consideration in the design of a man overboard davit or one designed for a dinghy, could one add a small windlass, perhaps like the ones used for pontoon boats, to get the lifting power easily? They can lift 40 lbs, and with 6:1 purchase could lift 240 (minus friction in the purchase). 8:1 would yield ~320 lbs of lifting power.

The windlass could be added under the gunnel on the inside of the boat with the line lead up along side of the davit. Conceviably, the 6:1 or larger purchase could even be placed inside the base tube to conceal it (I've done this type of Magic Box subsitute arrangement inside masts and booms for sailboats).

You'd need a quick line disconnect to accomodate removal of the davit and reattachment. This wouldn't be a problem with a davit left folded away against the cabin top, perhaps already attached to the dinghy, but ready for MOB deployment.

This is the type of "windlass" I was thinking about. (A "real" windlass wouldn't need any mechanical purchase, being able to lift several hundred pounds directly.

Joe, with the morning $0.02! :teeth

 

[thataway]

Matt, ref the heeling issue--yes the lines are long enough to pull from the other side--but with a disabled person, often the person doing the pulling may have to be at the gunnel to help the person aboard. Although you have the trunk body up above the gunnel level, the legs have to be pulled aboard separately. Hypothermia works very fast, and in our Northern waters we often only have a few minutes before a person' begins to loose significant strength. (even Southern CA waters in the winter). I first considered this issue in the 60's when a lady died on the side of a Cal 28--they had hoisted her out of the water, but not high enough to get aboard the boat and below to start the warming process.

Of course as the boat heels, the davit arm tends to pivot outboard I suspose that one could compensate for this, by the geometry of the davit when building the mount--but I prefer it to be straight because some lifts are going to be from the cockpit or from the cabin house.

The other issue, is that one has to make the decision as to which way they will be pulling (from the bottom or across the top thru the double cam cleat) when the pick up occurs. The pull from the bottom, or top requires different fair leads, and it would be difficult to change once there is any weight on the davit.

It would work very well for diving gear. We had also used a similar davit for pulling shrimp pots (but without the multiple ratio--just using one block or a snatch block and 1:1 ratio). In this case a fair lead to a which would be handy--and is what we did in the past with larger boats.

 

[thataway]

Joe, interesting thought--and I am familiar with the magic box concept. The lift distance will be in the 6 to 7 foot range--so it may be beyond the capability of the magic box's range. (the ones I have used were in the range of a couple of feet).

The small reel winch, is also a possibility--both manual or electic--and you would have to spool the amount of line. Of course in any case, there is the time element to get the hoisting system in place in case of an emergency--and this would apply to just the simple Garhauer davit or a more complex system...Perhaps not easy to do in a singificant seaway. The base would be easy to put in place, and if the top ring was already bolted in place, it would be fairly quick--but if you had to bolt the top ring in place, it would take some significant time. I would not leave this type of set up rigged for "man over board" specifically--whereas on our larger boats we had lifting systems permently rigged, which we used to bring the 12.5 foot RIB (about 380 lbs, with engine, battery fuel etc) aboard in a monents notice. This used an electric reel winch which had a pulling capacity of 1200 lbs dead lift and used SS cable. If one was going with an electric winch, it probably would be as easy and cheaper to just design the entire system around a davit which uses this cable reel winch--such as Les did on the C Dory.

 

[matt_unique]

Matt, ref the heeling issue--yes the lines are long enough to pull from the other side--but with a disabled person, often the person doing the pulling may have to be at the gunnel to help the person aboard. Although you have the trunk body up above the gunnel level, the legs have to be pulled aboard separately. Hypothermia works very fast, and in our Northern waters we often only have a few minutes before a person' begins to loose significant strength. (even Southern CA waters in the winter). I first considered this issue in the 60's when a lady died on the side of a Cal 28--they had hoisted her out of the water, but not high enough to get aboard the boat and below to start the warming process.

Of course as the boat heels, the davit arm tends to pivot outboard I suspose that one could compensate for this, by the geometry of the davit when building the mount--but I prefer it to be straight because some lifts are going to be from the cockpit or from the cabin house.

The other issue, is that one has to make the decision as to which way they will be pulling (from the bottom or across the top thru the double cam cleat) when the pick up occurs. The pull from the bottom, or top requires different fair leads, and it would be difficult to change once there is any weight on the davit.

It would work very well for diving gear. We had also used a similar davit for pulling shrimp pots (but without the multiple ratio--just using one block or a snatch block and 1:1 ratio). In this case a fair lead to a which would be handy--and is what we did in the past with larger boats.

Without seeing the system in person, would it be possible to hoist someone up, lock the line, then grab them and rotate the davit to pull them into the cockpit? Does the system lift a person high enough to do this if the base is mounted to the floor? I suppose it may also depend upon how long the lifting strap is as well.

This is great insight - thanks!

 

[breausaw]

I stumbled onto these after I'd already bought my hypalon Achilles(for twice as much). To me they look like a great value.

Saw these on Ebay, there heavy. Think thats why you don't see weight in a lot of the ads.

Jay

 

[jstates]

Greg

In response to your questions on page 1 about Soar inflatables:

I initially tried a 14 foot soar - a very dry inflatable canoe. Well built expedition boat - owner Larry of the Soar line was easy to work with. If you like to canoe and definitely want to sit above the water give it a try. I think I would have liked the 12 footer better.

I returned it due to size and as stated before hard to paddle in the wind with one person, the biggest reason was that as much as I like to canoe [instructor for years in New England] the one sided effort of canoing versus paddling on both sides in kayaking was uncomfortable for my particular back problem.

I then borrowed an Aire import called the Tributary strike [5 yr warranty] - an inflatable kayak. Big difference - easier to manage for on and off the Dory for me but closer to the water[wetter] and it still did not track that great using the Sea kayak paddles that I have for a Current Designs sea kayak.

After reviewing the www.theboatpeople.com website for months I purchased the Aire Super Lynx 14' 43 pounds - and know I made the right choice for my body - and paddling desires. They rated it as one of the faster inflatables. It is a cross between the Lynx II a tandem white water boat that has more rocker and the very long Sea Tiger their inflatable seakayak 18" - and 62 pounds. It will handle some serious white water in bigger rivers where the rock garden maneuvering required in New England is not an issue. I used one like it years ago [tandem] on some III-IV water on the Snake or Salmon. On flatter water - It will handle three adults as a dinghy to shore no problem and it will also handle two adults and a Rotweiller wearing his life jacket standing up and walking back and forth without big stability problems.[Stern paddler gets lots of dog kisses in that situation] It has one of thickest IK floors - hence dryer. Great seats that can be moved around or used on shore etc. It handles very well solo - with 2-3 gallon container of water in the front seat or just move the seat to the 1/3 position and less wt.

On the way home from the Gulf Island - we spent the night in the Blakely Harbor Marina - just south of Orcas. I paddled around Blakely island solo - both with and against current - using wind, waves, surfing, and back eddies - - it was a blast - and got to see some great wildlife.

What I like about the Super Lynx is it is very easy to get into from the water, and from CDORY -It is difficult to flip it by accident on flat water, I also like the idea of the Super lynx for young families - with two younger kids who want to look over the side at sea life in shallow water - balance is not difficult. It makes good platform for photography, or just checking out the shore line. Its fun to surf some tidal rips and should be fun to take out on the coast in the surf next summer.

It will not tow easily due to self draining ports that fill when pulled fast.

NRS - is an Idaho boating equipment and guide company and they use the Aire boats for guiding due to durability, - dogs not a problem and great warranty.

Aire boats come with 10 yr no fault warranty - double wall, zipped outer tubes and inner bladder, they are easy to blow up

One other piece - I consider this boat a survival boat if I ever have to leave the CDory - we will get wet [low profile for reduced windage] but in the worst ocean conditions two persons can lie flat - head to toe and still keep kayak paddles to the sides for stability [an old technique to make canoe more stable in big storm] once the object became surviving rather than navigating to a specific spot.

One minor negative - the stainless drain ring in the pockets sewed into the seat backs is poor quality and will rust onto the floor- I just pulled it off - the sealed nylon is fine without it.

I have no financial connection to Aire - or Soar - they both make fine products.

If anyones lives anywhere near S Puget Sound and want to try it let me know - - there are some photos that others took of it on top of the CD-22 Endurance on the Gulf Island trip - will try to post a couple of other photos soon.

Jim
on Endurance

 

[Nan-C]

Jim

Thanks for the great info on the Aire Super Lynx. Ironically, Lee at theboatpeople had given me enough info last spring to convince me this would be a great choice for us. We were going to drive over to his place in Danville to get one the last day of our trip to pick up the C-Dory, but it got to be rush hour which would have turned a short trip into a long one that did not fit our schedule. Later I started looking at the SOAR and was seduced by the hypalon and the stable width. However, we have no canoe skills, and I think you have saved us from making a mistake. It is tough to buy something like this without trying it out, and good info like yours really increases the odds for making a good choice.

Thanks again.

Greg

 

[Anonymous]

Watcha guys think of the walker bay genisis R I B ,? know its a little big for small c- dorys & rangers , lookin at the 10 footer to play with around the marina and a few close beaches on the river . anyone have any experience with one? never had a inflateable ,how good is that hayplon , tuff as they say? co. gaurantees it for 10 yrs. kinda curious?....john

 

[colobear]

Itsy

It depends on where you are planning to store the dinghie. If you plan to keep it inflated on the cabin top of a 22' or 25' the weight and length of the
Walker Bay could be quite a problem. If you plan to tow it everywhere then a bigger dinghie might work. what size C-Dory do you have?

 

[Anonymous]

c cakes ,unfourtanetly i dont have a c-dory , its-sea bit -c is a long story .but am looking into a 21 ec this year. current boat is stripped out hustler 26 (750)horses. race only . looking at a rib for playing around in thats all , sorta like that walker-bay but a bit pricey, thanks for the reply was just wondering how it handeled--------------john