Cruising SE Alaska out of Skagway, 2018.

Harvey, I responded to your PM today. I always appreciate your responses here & look forward to seeing them. What a motorcycle road trip you made & neat you actually made it through the metropolis of Cokeville, Wy. We would have loved to have been there to greet you.

6-16-18. With forecast light wind for Icy & Chatham strait & the whales gone from the Port Fredrick area, we decided to cut this visit to Hoonah short & head out at 12 noon today. Well the forecast were off & we got beat up some from the on the bow 2 & 3 footers, that managed closer to four as we finally gave up & made the turn around the point to find shelter for the rest of the afternoon & night in Whitestone Bay, Chichagof Island. In doing the rounding of the point a little to close, we nearly found the limits of how much the Kaboat can take, while being towed. It didn't like the very steep close set 4 footers from behind. With a close look & throttle control we managed not to flip it over & a good lesson learned. The waves were coming directly into Whitestone Bay, so fortunately there was a little nook off to one side at the end that gave the protection we wanted. A boat bigger or less shallow drafted would not not have got protection. 24 miles today & 847 total.

6-17-18. Up at 3:30 am & on the way by 3:50 to make the most out of the night calming of the waves. Not bad for the first 15 miles, but then sharp edges starting forming again. I almost stopped at a nook at 28 miles, but then it started smoothing out. 11 miles before Warm Springs Bay the afternoon winds picked up & we were back into 2 to three foot on the bow. NOAA still saying calm winds with 1 foot or less waves & the Windy weather app 4 mph max winds. We are now only a few miles out from the Warm Springs Bay & the welcomed hot tubs. Today's mileage will be 70 miles & that will make 917 so far on this trip total.
 
6-18-18. After the long day yesterday bucking the chop, we both soaked in the hot springs, then put the dingy on the roof & motor for it in the cockpit for our run across Chatham strait to round Point Gardiner. Followed by back in the spring water to almost midnight. Up this morning at 6 am to blue sky & light winds. As we approached Point Gardiner the fog caught up with us. Not real dense, but couldn't see any points for reference or other boats unless right on us, so happy for electronic charts & radar. The fog was short lived & we spent 14 hours of the day cruising on calm waters & blue skies at about 6 mph as we explored the southern end of Admiralty Island. In & out of Murder Cove & Pybus Bay, then around Gambier Bay looking for the perfect nights anchorage. After checking out all the ones where we have anchored in past years & knowing it was forecast for light winds from the north, we picked a spot in among the Islands at the bay entrance with a wonderful view looking out at the distant snow & ice capped mountain glaciers & closer islands with a scene constantly changing with the tides. Along with the view, the wild life was abundant. Many active Eagles & other shore birds along with seals, sea lions & early in the morning a whale. Nature is often not quiet & we love the animal & birds sounds with a whale breathing close by a real eye opener. 82 miles today & 999 total
 
Hey Jay, another thread reminded me of a question for you. Another couple asked me about oil changes on the water as they are considering an Alaska adventure. I hadn't really thought about it earlier, figuring I'd change it before I go, and then when I come home. Just wondering, how many hours do you typically put on your engine on your Alaska adventures, and do you worry about doing an oil change while on the water? Colby
 
HI Jay, Thanks and I found the PM. Those hot tubs sound wonderful. Sounds like a nice place to base some day trips out of :wink: I have always enjoyed the hot springs near wherever I am.

So as far north as you are, you have pretty short nights. Are they long enough for the winds to die out and give you a typical morning calm? The night before the R2AK I had to be up at 0330 and there was already enough lite to see the eastern horizon. I did enjoy playing in the bio-luminescence earlier in the morning.

Have a great time an stay safe. Enjoying following again.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Colby, with us running twins & at least 85% of the time on one motor at displacement speed our hrs will most likely differ significantly from you. This years SE Alaska trip will most likely end with 1234 miles & 117 hours on each motor. This is the least hours we’ve done here since our first trip in 2003. Most of the 8 trips have been between 1500 & 2100 miles with hours between 150 & 200 on each motor. No oil changes, except when forced due to a stuck thermostat causing fuel to dilute the oil. I always use 100% synthetic chevron mobile 1 extended, which if used in cars is supposed to be good for 15,000 miles. I certainly don’t worry about not changing by the book here. With 112 hrs now on each motor on this trip, I’ve not yet needed to add oil & these motors now have 2277 hours on them.

Harvey, yes nights are short. Before midnight or after 2:30 am, I can see well enough to maneuver most of the time & yes the evening & especially early morning are normally the calmest periods, but of course not always. Where we spend long days on the water moving slowly, I try to time the start of the day if possible to match, current flow & wind direction. Best case again of course is current with the wind, but at time the tides don’t cooperate with the desired wind, so decisions of when to leave any anchorage or harbor, I find ever changing with only generalities a constant.

Jay
 
Thanks Jay. I really didn't even think about the necessity of doing an oil change until someone brought it up. Since I tend to do a lot of boating over the summers anyway, with 100-200 hours on the motor, and also run synthetic, I didn't really see much difference in that with a trip to Alaska. I'll likely just stick with my annual oil change. Colby
 
Good Morning Jay, and thank for the reply. Short nights, means you have to sleep fast if you can't sleep long. Great visibility early and late though, makes for being able to shift schedule with the tides easier.

I was really interested in your answer to Colby on your run time percentages. WOW, 85% on a single OB. Are you doing that for fuel range extension? I find I do that often when doing safety boat patrol as I need to keep one engine running to keep the electronics running, (3 VHF's, MFD x2, sounder, radar and often a small inverter to keep tablets up and running) and keep the battery charging, so a single at about 1500 RPM will keep the voltage about 13, so I don't have to worry about browning out my plotter. Usually when I am cruising at slow cruise (about 5 knots) I am running that on both twins. You obviously keep way better numbers than I do so sounds like you have it dialed in very well.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Yes Harvey, the one motor running is mainly for fuel economy for range extension. I leave both motors down with the non running motor in neutral. I've tried it about every way possible & this works best for me. Two motors running gives better steering control, but both down & one running is near as good. It's been to long since I tested both in all the different combinations for fuel consumption, but it was significant betreen running just one or two at displacement speed of 6.6 mph. If the non running motor is raised the mileage increase is very little & the steering control decreased a lot. In years past, I ran with one up & only put both down when in areas, I needed the increased steering control. After finding there was very little loss in mileage with bothdown & talkng to a certified Honda mechanic about leaving the non running motor in neautral when down being best option, I've done it this way since & that has now been for several SE Alaska trips & thousands of miles.

When in real tight places, I then run both the motors, as I've found like you it greatly increased boat control by using them for the steering.

Jay
 
Jay, Thanks again. You have probably mentioned it before but do you have Permatrims on? That would increase your steering control as well.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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6-19-18. With clear blue skies & lite winds, we left our much enjoyed views & wildlife noise of our outer Gambier Bay anchorage on Admiralty Island & made way for one of the high lites of a cruise here & a most memorable place for us going back to our tide rapid running there in 2004, where we received a costly lesson on tidal bar crossing. On the entryway into Endicott Arm of Holkham Bay, we found a tidal rapid larger than ever experienced before & very eye opening with the small icebergs still big enough they demanded being missed by the boat. There was also lots of ice in the entry way to Ford Terror Inlet off Endicott Arm Inlet. We were & hour & half early for the flood slack, but decided to run it early & was fine doing so with current not much different than the Yukon River. Inside the views were even more than the normal breathtaking of the many waterfalls & cliffs on this blue sky day. In our many trips here, we have extensively explored most every nook & cranny, so this time we just anchored & enjoyed the splendid view. 53 miles and a 1053 total

6-20-18. With another blue sky day & lite winds forecast for Stephen Passage, we decided to leave Fords Terror on the morning slack tide with a nights stay at the small dock at Taku Harbor the plan. On the way out of Endicott Arm we had to hold up at the entrance for the Disney Cruise ship Wonder. I don’t care much for cruise ships, but it was a Wonder seeing it up close, enter the fairly narrow channel opening & then stop to let some of the passengers off to board smaller sight seeing boats in this remote & beautiful setting.

Once on Stephens Passage the water was so smooth, we decided to keep moving on to Auke Bay near Juneau. I called Doc Steve, a C-Brat from the past who has come to our aid many times on our cruises here in SE Alaska. This time we needed nothing, but a good conversation with him & he came down to the outer dock, where we spent a good part of the evening enjoying his company.

Checking the weather, we found tomarrow will still be clear, but the wind rising & staying up on the bad waters of the Lynn Canal, so it looks like a very early start then a bumpy ride. At least the winds are from the south, so they will be on the stern

Tomarrow or the next day will be our last day on the water in SE Alaska this year. We are leaving early as we have covered the routes planned more quickly than thought we would due to better weather than usual, especially for our low speed but long traveling day method of cruising in the little C-Dory. Also we can here the kids & grandkids request for some summer time shared with them. It’s wonderful to be loved & wanted to be near. 97 miles today & 1149 total

6-21-18. Another mostly clear day & lots of hours of daylight to enjoy. Up at 4 am & off shortly after for the final cruising day. It was a beautiful run with the huge ragged mountain ranges on both sides of the Lynn Canal really standing out with the bright sky.. it was bumpy, but not near so, as it would be now, as we are safely docked in Skagway & the Eldridge Rock area blowing + 25 knots with a small craft warning again.

Our 8th cruise here is now ended with a 85 mile day done at planing speed. This cruise was 1234 miles & that makes for us in our little 22 foot C-Dory boat a total of 11,733 miles in these waters. We seldom see a boat our size cruising here & few of the larger ones have seen as much of these waters as our Hunkydory.

We are planing on spending some time on Atlin Lake on the way home, so it will be not quite so hard to pull the boat from the water here tomarrow.
 
Jay,
Thanks for sharing your trip. Really enjoyed following along with you
and Jo-Lee on another great adventure. Sounds like you had a great time. I am heading out for Camp Clow and a month on Lake Superior on June 30th.
Bill
 
Thanks Jay for sharing. Sure wish I was with you guys this year, but to be honest, those days may have been a little long for me. Sounds like maybe when I get there, I need to stay on my own time zone so those local early morning get ups won't feel so bad! :mrgreen: Colby
 
Colby, your welcome & glad you enjoyed my sharing.

Most all are different in their cruising methods & over the years, we have worked out what’s best for us up here in a CD22, but sometimes we kick ourselves for not staying longer at some places, but have found unless one is willing to lay over for extended period of a week or so at times, the weather determines, when one can go comfortably or even sometimes safely in a very small boat with a flat bottom like the CD22 especially if wind on the bow is over 10 knots It’s often a case of pay now or later as few including us like to arise out of bed like we did today at 4am, but today was a good example of why one should or plan to stay put for a while. The forecast was for 15 knots from the south this morning which would be on the stern & but later it was supposed to raise to 25 knots plus with the afternoon tides running against. Not longer after our arrive here in Skagway the winds were at that point & probably higher further down at Eldridge Rock & this is forecast to continue for a while. Like many times before we were taking a afternoon nap here as the winds really picked up.

Jay
 
Jay and Jolee, Thanks so much for sharing your trip. I have been to some of those places in person, and some on Google Earth, but I recognize many of the names. Sure seems like a short trip, but you got in 1234 miles --was that numeric planned :wink:

Wishing you safe travels as you return. Stay safe and enjoy the ride.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Harvey, 40 nights is a short trip with half the cost being on the road. We would have stayed longer, but JoLee’s arthritis & inner ear troubles were taking much of the fun out of it for her.

6-22-18. Following showers & a restful night at the dock, we started late morning, the boat pull out & clean-up process. The Skagway Marina has excellent facilities for doing this & the process went quick & well. As mentioned the facilities at the Skagway Small Boat Harbor are excellent & the docking fees for us at $12.50 for the night, the lowest of any marina we visited. The Harbor Master does a great job here & is also very pleasant in making arrangements for what ever is needed. By 3pm Alaska time we were on the beautiful 150 mile drive out of Skagway to Atlin with only a quick stop at the Yukon Border & ice cream at Carcross. The 150 miles total, includes the little over 60 mile drive from the Yukon & Alaska HY directly south into British Columbia to the small isolated town of Atlin on the edge of beautiful Atlin Lake. We found big changes since our last visit with with the cost of launching & storing of truck & trailer going from $20 Canadian a week to a day. With the the shock of this still on my mind & the launching facilities primitive, we forgot to put in the plug. Anyway that’s our not so good excuse. By the time it was noticed & the boat lined the 30 feet to the side to the unloading dock, water was close to a foot deep in the cockpit & several inches in the cabin with much of our stuff soaked. By the time all was back shipshape except for the drying out process, it was getting fairly late, so off into the normal stiff down from the glaciers wind to the entry of Torres Chanel & into the first protected bite on the side to anchor for the night. Here while sorting out all the soaked stuff, we had the enjoyment of a huge lynx walk along the shore close to our anchorage. It’s only the 2nd one, we have ever seen & the other was on our way home from here by Watson Lake in 2010. The first was not more than a quick glance, this was several minutes. What a wonderful way to end our first day back on Atlin Lake. It’s been 8 years since our last visit here with our first in 2001, when we explored the lake for several days in a inflatable boat, then back again in 2003, our first trip north with the Hunkydory & the last with the Hunkydory & Mokai in 2010. This lake looks similar to Jackson Lake in Grand Teton National Park, which is a world class beauty, except Atlin Lake is much larger at 70 miles long & close to 14 miles wide if including the channels from Williston Inlet to the widest part of the Lake & it’s Islands. I would rank Atlin Lake & I think most others would too as the most remote & beautiful mountain lake, perhaps even in the entire world, that a trailerable boat can be towed to & launched to explore. The best part to us is very few other boats or people here. 6 miles today

6-23-10 Our 2nd granddaughters 8th Birthday. Happy Birthday Bean.

Up & moving by 7am to make the 20 mile run up Torres Channel to Williston Inlet. The clear blue sky, mirror smooth turquoise waters, more than a hundred islands of all sizes & shapes, shore lines with more small nooks & bites than I’ve seen on any other lake, all with intriguing rock, tree & grass combinations, huge snow capped mountains with glaciers peeking out between & waterfalls throughout, made our memories from the past of the beauty here true, not fanciful. We spent the day exploring this wonderland & returning to & reminiscing over many of the special places & times shared here in the past, while enjoying every minute of the present.

A remarkable Change from past visits here is the out flow rivers of the Lewellyn Glacier. In 2010, I tried to go up one of its outlets at the head of Lewellyn Inlet, the official head of the Yukon River in our motorized kayak called a Mokai. I had a great time trying, but was unsuccessful in reaching the glacier calving lake at its head, due to the danger being to great to continue. That winter, I read the ice burst within the Lewellyn Glacier letting a inner lake flood down the river, I tried to go up. Today, I could see a huge volume of water still in this river & wondered why. Later today, I found out why, when we reached further around the lake, where the other rivers use to flow. The flood created huge sand & gravel bars, that now block these rivers or the glacier calving lake that once fed them is now lower than the old outlet so flowing into the Lewellyn Inlet, & all the water from the Lewellyn Glacier is now flowing out the one, I tried to go up in 2010. We are now anchored in a very small cove on the south east shore of the lake, directly across from where the glacier rivers once flowed. Now maybe a powerful jet boat could go up the outlet, but for sure not a Mokai. 63 miles today 69 total.

6-24-18. Up at 7 am to be greeted by a cloudy sky & a porcupine on the shore. We now started into one of the many Island groups on the southwest side of the lake & though much different than the rugged mountain edged side of the lake it has a more placid beauty with the intricate rocky shores mixed with accessible beaches & covered with a mix of pine, aspen & a tundra like grass with some of the inlets lined with a grass of similar look to sedge grass. Above this are large mountains more rounded than the ragged glacier side but still topped with patches of snow. We crisscrossed the lake to see the 1st narrows & on the way back in the middle of the lake spotted a caribo swimming across. We didn’t want to stress him, so just took one quick photo & a few seconds of video before turning away. With having now seen most of the lake, we had so completely explored in the past, we decided to make for Atlin pull the boat & move on to Teslin Lake & if weather cooperates, return to Nuslutin Bay, which we last explored in the Hunkydory in 2003 & prior to that in 2001 & 2002 in a inflatable boat, when we went several miles up the Nuslutin River & then 40 miles down Teslin lake’s out flow river, the Teslin River. During these trips, we also explored the complete 80 miles of Teslin Lake, so it will be wonderful to again be afloat on it tomarrow.

We are now in a Yukon Campground for the night on the edge of Teslin Lake, where sitting by a campfire with wood provided can look out on the lake. These Yukon Campgrounds are a really good deal at only $12 Canadian per night with campfire wood no charge. 49 miles today & a total of 119 miles, which is only 4 miles more than we did in just one day in our inflatable boat in 2001. It was gps shown mileage that day & though I never recorded the total for the 5 days, i’d estimate it was well over 300 miles.

6-27-18. We decided not to launch the boat on Teslin Lake, due to forecast being extended rain period & finding out the area of the lake we wanted to see again would be best done in the fall, when it’s a staging area for waterfowl. After a couple days of rain staying with us for a 1000 miles on the road in Canada, we crossed the border back into Montana & the good ole US of A. We made it home on the 28th, just in time for all the grandkids to make it here the following day.

On this trip of 40 days, we logged a total of 1349 miles on the water & 4802 miles towing the HunkyDory & that was without any mechanical or electrical problems with boat, trailer or truck, which is the least problems we’ve had since our first extended trip up north with the HunkDory in 2003. We feel really good about that, since the boat is a year 2000, the motors, year 1999 & they now have 2300 hours. The present trailer year 2007 with over 40,000 miles & the truck, year 2006 with 135,000 miles.
 
Other than the free fresh water rinse of the inside of your boat, sounds like a wonderful time at Lake Altin. Thanks for sharing all this with us Jay. And the plug thing just goes to show, that even someone as experienced as you can forget something! I'm just getting ready to head out, up to Grand Portage, MN, where I'll join about 6 other boats to go spend about two weeks in Isle Royale National Park. These boats are so wonderful for trailering and getting out to see whatever! Colby
 
Jay, thanks for sharing all your adventures! I hope to put Atlin Lake on my next years to do, it sounds beautiful.

Hope to see you and JoLee this September!

Happy 4th, safe travels!
 
Welcome back Jay and Jo-Lee and happy 4th of July from Camp Clow. Glad you had a great time and a safe return to Cokeville. It's on to Grand Portage from here tomorrow with Meri Aura, C-Otter, Tully-B, Dragon Fly and Mystery Girl. Weather permitting we will make the crossing out to Isle Royal Friday morning. At some point we should meet up with Midnight Flyer and Deja La. Looks like we should have a nice two weeks out there on the island.
Bill
 
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