Cruising SE Alaska out of Skagway, 2018.

6-2-18 This morning while out for a ride in the dingy, I met & talked to two women on kayaks. They have a 60 some foot Krogen trawler anchored here near us. One of them had sailed around the world in a sailboat & lived full time on it for twenty years. Now getting older & not liking being out in the weather so much, she has switched to the Krogen. I think from our conversation, I learned why it seems, so few are here & in other places we've been so far this year compared to the past. They are planning a trip into Glacier Bay & when doing the checking they were told, there was 100 less boats on the list now compared to last year & felt the difference is coming from the King Salmon fishing closures. It seems for many making their way up from Washinton State, the king salmon fishing is a large part of the reason for going. When we did fish here, I never spent the 100 plus extra for a king salmon license, over the regular fishing license.

After the dingy ride we headed back on smooth waters to Warm Springs Bay for more walking & hot tub soaking. We topped off the main tanks from the spares & found since leaving Hoonah, we have averaged 6.5 mpg while running on one of the twin 40 Honda motors at a time at displacement speed. When totally topped off with 86 gallons it gives us a max range of 559 miles at displacement speed. If we do all on plane speed it would drop to 284 miles. On past cruises here when we did a combination of mostly displacement & some on plane the average would be about 5.3 mpg or a range of 456 miles. The furthest we have made here between fueling so far is 405 miles with 25 gal still in reserve.

We are now tied to the dock at the Baranof Warm Springs for the night with the muffled roar of the water fall to put us to sleep. 28 miles today & 361 total

6-3-18 A very sweet-bitter day for us. It's our 50th wedding anniversary & for sure a wonderful thing to celebrate, but also our 25th Wedding Anniversary was the last time we saw our oldest son, Erik. So many emotions flowing through us today.
 
6-3-18 continued. When we got back to the Warm Springs dock after a short run out to Chatham Strait for Internet connection, the Fleming Yacht "Venture" who we have read much about and watched many videos of it exploring in Alaska & many other places was there along with its owner & designer Tony Fleming. We had the pleasure of spending a couple hours talking with him & he gave us a very thorough tour of the Venture. He is 83 years old & sharp as tack & on this cruise here is dong a video on whales. On our recommendation they are heading to the Hoonah area tomorrow, where not many days ago we saw so many whales doing their shallow water bubble feeding. I hope the whales are still in that area, when they arrive there.
 
I met Tony Fleming at a boat show a few years ago--neat guy. Your visiting with people you meet is a wonderful way to meet some very interesting people. We used to "dinghy" around, and strike up conversations, as you are doing. Very worthwhile and fun!
 
Thanks Ken. Bob, yes conversations you meet on cruises like this & others are a very enjoyable part of the overall trip and yesterday the conversations towards evening continued. As described below.

More 6-3-18 continued

This evening we were invited back aboard the Venture for more conversation with Tony Fleming, his Captain & quest, one of which is writing a book with photos on whales. To us old country boy & girl it was an amazing time of which we never even dreamed of experiencing. Now, I've day dreamed of owning & cruising in a Fleming Yacht, but never dreamed of sharing time with its designer & still owner aboard the first one built. What a day for both of us on our 50th Wedding Anniversary. Following conversation on the Venture, Jo-Lee & I took a walk on the trail out from the dock, then soaked in the hot spring water & are finally now with the last rays of the setting sun on the surrounding peaks back aboard our own & deeply appreciated comparatively little 22 foot C-Dory boat..
 
Jay and Jolee,
Happy anniversary to both of you. For some reason that last post has me thinking about some of the great time spent on C-Swell with Sue. We wern't quite as adventuresome as you two but we had some really enjoyable trips together that I will always remember. Really appreciate your updates. I know they are tough to do after a long day on the water, keep them coming.
Bill
 
Bill,

Thanks & I know Sue & you had many wonderful times together on C-Swell much like Jo-Lee & I have & do see how my sharing now has brought memories back to you. We sure enjoyed your sharing of your river & ocean adventures earlier this year.

Jay
 
6-4-18. We left Warm Springs Bay this morning, crossed Chatham Strait to Admiralty Island with plans of first stopping at Whitestone Bay. As we neared the entrance of Whitestone Bay on Admiralty Island there were porpoise's along our bow & whales further out in front & off to the side. After anchoring at the head of Whitestone Bay, I took a ride up the river in the dingy. It was at a zero tide, so not enough water to get up to the very pretty spots & where we have seen bears on both prior trips here. On the shore on our way into the bay we saw 5 bears to far off to photograph. A mother & two cubs & two other young bears hanging out together. Their reactions were fun to watch as they all encountered each other. We have anchored here for the night before, but the wind is not coming from a good direction to do so tonight, so we are now off for Angoon. If it all works out well we plan to go from there into Kootznahoo Inlet at a high slack tide to Mitchell & Kanalku Bays. This is a area we've considered exploring in the past, but the maze of fast water tidal channels with areas of shallows & rocks has made us reluctant. Last winter, I studied the area on google earth & think we are up to the challenge. This afternoon after our arrival at the Angoon Marina, we walked up to the store, where we met a native who advised us not go due to the fast water & many rocks. This has made us even more cautious, but is not stopping our attempt. We have about another hour to wait for the slack & then will be off to find an anchorage in Mitchell Bay at the head of Kootznahoo Inlet for the night.
 
Just before slack tide we shoved oftf from the Angoon dock & made our way up Kootzahoo Inlet. There was a bear not more than a 1/2 mile from Angoon. No problems going up the Inlet & finding a nice anchorage with a weird shaped rock formation on the edge of the nook. Other than the many channels the most interesting thing about this inlet are all the rock island & protrusions with strange looking tree formations on them. 70 miles today & 427 now total

6-5-18

Up early to make a slack tide entry into Kanalku Bay's narrow shallow tidal entry from Mitchell Bay in our dingy. We had a wonderful 2 hour exploration there & saw one large bear & several deer. The Kootznahoo Inlet area is low lands covered in a thick rain forest with many channels & Islands with the many rock formations spread out through it. There are many little inlets most ringed in sedge grass. A real fun place to slow cruise on the dingy or C-Dory. Following the dingy ride we headed out the channels toward Angoon in the middle of a ebb tide. No problems missing rocks & handling the current. We are now almost back across Chatham Strait to enter Peril Strait, then into Hoonah Sound to anchor for the night. Very few bears in the Fortress of the Bears as that's what Kootznahoo means.

While writing the above, 3 orcas approached us & dove, while still quite a distance off. We stopped the boat, went out in the cockpit to try & see where they would surface, which they did not do again until a distance off, but they did swim directly under us & the dingy, very shallow & easily seen. It was quite a thrill to experience.
 
6-5-18 continued. Near Frisk Cove in Hoonah sound, we stopped & watched another 5 bears, they were just like the 5 in Whitestone Bay on Admiralty Island. A female with two cubs & another two very young bears. From there we continued on up Hoonah Sound, but near the anchorage there, just like in 2016 was a family group with separate boats staying at the forest service cabin. With the known 5 bears at Frisk cove & a good anchorage there, we decided to return to Frisk Cove to anchor. Before reaching the forest service cabin near it & while there, we saw two more bears. Tonight we have the 5 bears on one side of the Cove & another just came out & is eating sedge grass on the other. Only down side is just before getting back here another boat beat us in & anchored in the protected from weather spot. We are fine except for winds out of the east, so we hope it stays calm like it is now.

In Kootznahoo Inlet, where we thought there would be many bears, there were only three & two of those very near Angoon. There were many seals & the most black porpoise seen anywhere & very active in their feeding, unlike most we see out in the straits. It's been a very good wildlife viewing day with many whales also seen while crossing Chatham Strait & going up Peril Strait. A couple were very close & one off some distance breached several times. The splash they make can be seen from several miles away. 75 miles today & 502
 
6-8-18. With a very good weather forecast for the west Chichagof Island wilderness area between here & Pelican, we have decided to cut our Sitka visit short & head out today. This is an open to the Gulf of Alaska section & good weather is a must for venturing there. We will not have communication there except line of sight VHF radio & our Delorean In Reach . If interested this link shows where we are by satellite at all times.
https://share.delorme.com/JuliusByers
 
J & J, Reef Madness will be leaving Juneau this morning, 6/9 to cross over to Hoonah and then may proceed on to Elfin Cove. Looks like our paths might converge in that area. Look for us in the Inner Harbor at Elfin Cove. Safe travels.
 
6-8-18. As we were approaching Salisbury Sound to make way out into the open Gulf of Alaska waters, I again checked NOAA VHF radio weather & it was quite different then the NOAA Internet spot & earlier radio forecast. Instead of variable winds 5 mph & less with 3 foot seas it was now saying 7 foot with 15 mph from the northwest, the direction we were headed & the swells from the south west. I called a charter boat coming back from there & he said conditions were sloppy, but not big waves, so we decided to see for ourselves. The 5 foot swells with the chop was close to 7 feet, but the swells well spaced, so with wind coming from another direction causing the slop. Entering Piehle Passage did raise the pucker factor somewhat, but all went well on a beautiful mostly sunny day. We have been towing the 13 foot Kaboat with the 6 hp Suzuki motor attached since our stop in Little Basket Bay, which is 384 miles. It is towing extremely well, but will put it back on top in conditions that would have been no concern with the Mokai.

After making our way through Piehle Passage from the open Gulf, we had just enough time to make a run up Slocum Arm of Khaz Bay looking for bears before going to the head of Falcon Arm to Anchor for the night. The sun was down, but still light enough to see well to anchor. We did see four very large bears without cubs, so good to see they survived the hunting season, that ended a short time ago. 67 miles today & trip total 630.

6-9-18. Woke up to partial sunny skies & light winds with no bears, but lots of seals around us. This is an anchorage we’ve seen bears in the past, but remembered mostly for our time here with Brent & Dixie in 2015 & the gale that we woke up to then, while they were just down channel a short distance, but in a nook out of the wind. When it broke enough to pull anchor we joined them there, but by then we were well shaken & stirred.

From Falcon Arm, Khaz Bay we cruised the intricate passages to Sister Lake, a very remote inner salt water chuck, that one would think they were on a high fresh water lake instead of channels from the ocean. We saw three very skittish bears there, which is unusual & most likely due to the recent hunting of them. From there we headed to Black Bay, an area that’s always provided bear sightings in the past. There were four out front on the flats on our arrival & as I was preparing the Dingy another two came out of the trees. At the same time a front with heavy rain & wind struck & in the excitement, the dingy got away, so it was a quick pull of the anchor & we managed to get it back before being blown into a place that would have made it even more difficult to retrieve. During this we were very happy we had a windlass for the anchor unlike our first three cruises up here. With the now heavy rain we left Black Bay for a known good anchorage in Baker Cove, where we dropped the hook in a even smaller nook, there to listen to the rain pounding on the boat cabin roof & the wind gusts screaming loud. This all made us very thankful for a big anchor on a little boat instead of a little anchor on a big boat & of course the warm dry cabin & bed we had to stay & sleep in, while nature had her way.
51 miles today 681 total.

6-10-11 We awakened a little later than normal with the wind gone, but rain still falling. Through the mist less than a quarter mile away, we could see two bears, making for a pleasurable waking & morning coffee drinking.

Our plans for the day were to check out Dry Pass for a morning Passage tomarrow to Mirror Harbor & cruise up into Goulding Harbor, where we spent two nights anchored in 2016. The outside forecast was for west winds of 15 knots & 6 foot seas with tomarrow the same 6 foot, but out of the south. The south winds would be better for exiting Dry Pass, but I wanted to see how the 6 foot sea conditions looked. We have been through this Dry Pass twice before, but the last time even though only 3 foot, it gave us a scare with a close rock encounter, when trying to avoid kelp. In 2016 we thoroughly checked it out with 12 foot seas, but wouldn’t make the attempt even when dropping to 6 foot. The approach from the south inner waters is a maze of rock shallows, which we found a very good route through in 2016, so today we quickly reached the area just in from the entrance & after a good survey of the conditions decided not to wait till tomarrow & made a smooth transition through the kelp & out into the swells. We then had them on our stern as we made the 2.5 miles to the Mirror Harbor entrance. There the kelp completely blocked the entrance. With a succession of prop reverses, we chewed our way through the kelp & into the inner Harbors, which is again a maze of rocky shallows, of which we are well acquainted, so no problems.

After a restful nap, we headed to the start of the White Sulfur Hot Springs trial in the dingy. The mile long trail in had more bear sign, than we have seen on past walks in 2007, 2010, 2012, 2015 & 2016. This whole wilderness area of Chichagof Island has an extremely high bear population. Bear spray & my new 12 ga Benelli M2 semi auto tactical shotgun made the experience a little less worrisome, then it would have been without. Making the walk always worth it is the beautiful setting of the outside spring on the edge of Bertha bay with surrounding rain forest & wonderfully designed forest service cabin nestled in behind. Added to this is the wood structured cover of the other spring right on the water edge with its glass paneled sliding windows giving a unbelievable view out to the islands & ocean, while soaking in the pool with its rock ledges & bottom in clear hot water. This is an amazing place & always a highlight of our SE Alaska trips.

Tonight Mirror Harbor is mirror smooth just as it’s name implies & we’re enjoying the beauty after another exciting & wonderful day on the outside waters of the Chichagof Island wilderness of SE Alaska.
7 miles today 688 total
 
6-11-18 The morning arrived with Mirror Harbor no longer mirror smooth, which gave us a touch of apprehension about our plan of leaving there for Pelican. Forecast was 15 knots from the West with 6 foot seas, so headed out through the kelp to see if doable now. The next 2 days the seas are supposed to go from the present 6 feet up to 9 & then back down to 5. Today we found them similar to our run from Salisbury Sound to Piehle Passage except steeper & we had to go into them for a mile or so before turning more north. 6 feet & steep are big seas for a 22 foot boat, but we the dingy & Hunkydory made it to the smoother waters of Lisianski Strait just fine, where we noticed the charter boats from Pelican were staying to avoid being bounced in the outside waters.

We are now back in Pelican, a place of found memories from past years & meeting people we have got to know there again.
28 miles today & 716 total.
 
J & J, We are in Elfin Cove. We have Reef Madness parked at the inner harbor. We’ve been fishing on Tootsie, our friends Tom Cat. Nice to have two Cats at our disposal. They are side tied now. See you soon.
 
you all are having to much fun. Do any of you need anything small and light from town? I'll be reporting for duty at the prison labor camp tomorrow
 
B~C":2kbfwzia said:
you all are having to much fun. Do any of you need anything small and light from town? I'll be reporting for duty at the prison labor camp tomorrow
Click to expand...
We ARE having a good time Ken. Jay & Jolee were here and came up for dinner, and coffee the next morning. They have since parted for Hoonah and “Who knows where” (they are very adventurous you know.)
We have everything we need here but thanks for the offer. See you in camp. We’ll be in the guard tower.
 
Ken, sorry to say we missed you by about as close as we normally miss Gene & Margaret, so nothing needed by us. Maybe see you later this year or another.

6-11—6-15. Two nights at the Pelican dock with days spent wandering the town boardwalks & chatting with the locals. Many interesting characters live here & a real pleasure talking to them. We found out the large derelict fishing boat we have been docking by here since 2007 & using for wind protection from the West is going to be towed to the son of its owner, who lives north of town outside the grid, where he has dug a large hole for it into the beach. There it will rest in close view to his home with it’s & his mother’s name, Nancy K in view. Pelican & Port Armstrong remain on the top of the lis of our favorite small SE Alaska towns. To us who love the big mountains the view out from town over the Marina is unbeatable.

Following the two days in Pelican we were off out Lisianski Inlet & up beautiful Cross Sound with its views of the snow capped mountains to the north, rugged cliffs & sculptured rocks to the south, open Pacific to West & tree covered islands to the west, where Elfin Cove is tucked into a small inlet on the larger Chichagof Island shore. There, we were Looking forward to meeting fellow C-Brats & C-Dory Tomcat owners Gene & Margaret Morris. Shortly after docking we were met by them & Docker & we were invited to a halibut dinner cooked by Margaret & caught by either her or Gene, just a day or so before. They are staying in a beautiful home overlooking the inner harbor & in it we could look down on the setting below & see our Hunkydory resting at the dock. Both Jo-Lee & I can say the conversations before during & after dinner were extremely enjoyable & interesting as we all shared our varying adventures. Sitting on a comfortable couch & eating at a regular dinner table certainly also added to the overall enjoyment. We can also honestly say Margaret’s cooked halibut was the best tasting ever. The following morning it was back to the house on the hill & Gene & Margret for coffee, Hot Cinnabon’s & a couple hours of enjoyable conversation before shoving off fro Dundas Bay.

With the high tides, tonight is 19 feet with a -3 foot low, it made the run through Inian Passage with the strong currents an exciting ride. The wind was light so not to exciting. On the way through the channels many sea lions & porpoises & after crossing North Passage right at the start of Dundas Bay lots of whales with breaching. Also a large bear out on the tidal flats. The water here is a beautiful turquoise, but with the clouds not as colorful as some past trips here & the clouds were blocking the high snow covered mountains too. We anchored several hours at the head of the east arm & went for a ride in the dingy & to shore. The shore has huge glacier left rocks & White a white sand beach, so very fun to meander there. With wind predicted from the SW, which would be right up the channel to us, we made a late enening cruise up the east Arm, where we saw a mama bear with three cubs & then to our usual anchorage there among the islands off the the entry channel. After a smooth night we caught the strong ebb tide down to Icy Strait & then just in time to be pushed all the way to Hoonah on the flood, most of the way doing an average of 9 mph on the one engine at low rpm. Now in Hoonah at a pub with WiFi.
107 miles. 823 miles total
 
Sure is fun to follow along on your trip. Thanks for all the posts, the wildlife sightings and weather reports. Great fun to read. Your low tide is matched here tomorrow, we have a minus 3.4 with an exchange of 12 feet. Big for us. The largest I experienced up on the north end of Vancouver Island was about 15 feet as I recall. Made my usual anchoring in 5 feet challenging.

BTW, I sent a PM a few days ago. I had been in your neighborhood.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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