I am somewhat new to the C-Brats site. I purchased a CD 25', 2008 a few months ago and have noticed condensation in the rear locker where the batteries and fresh water tank are stored. I seem to get a bit of water below when it rains or when I wash down the cockpit. I am wondering if a vent cut into each of the doors would help. Any ideas?
Condensation
- Thread starter swede
- Start date
Wandering Sagebrush
Free Range Human
Swede,
We had a lot of condensation in our port locker when it was used just as storage. Earlier this year, I moved the batteries and placed on in the port locker to get better weight distribution. When I did that, I put about 4 1" holes across the front edge of the locker floor. Since then, I have not observed any condensation. On a 22, you need to be aware of the fuel cell under the locker, but other than that, there were no issues. I am not sure what you have under the locker on the 25.
Steve
We had a lot of condensation in our port locker when it was used just as storage. Earlier this year, I moved the batteries and placed on in the port locker to get better weight distribution. When I did that, I put about 4 1" holes across the front edge of the locker floor. Since then, I have not observed any condensation. On a 22, you need to be aware of the fuel cell under the locker, but other than that, there were no issues. I am not sure what you have under the locker on the 25.
Steve
Swede-
The condensation occurs in a daily basis due to the hot days / cool nights cycle that leaves water on the locker walls at night to run down and collect on the locker floor, from which it doesn't easily evaporate during the ensuing day. (You probably know this, of course, but I'm a retired science teacher and am obligated to drop in explanations so that anyone not fully understanding something can follow along.)
That port locker is not open at the bottom and sealed on the sides so that it can be converted and used as a live well, at least if it is like the CD-22. Drilling a bunch of holes will somewhat limit that possibility. If you think you or someone else may want to use it for a live well someday, you might make a single hole or two after finding the lowest point(s) in the locker bottom, which then could be converted to a drain and another plumbing inlet/outlet later as part of a live well system.
If you do then find you do need the full four holes, the extra ones could be drilled, then skillfully glassed over later, if necessary, to form a live well.
Also, as you suggest, there are various types of vent fittings that could be put on the locker hatch cover that would allow air circulation in combination with the smaller hole or holes in the bottom. Some are passive, with baffles to prevent rain water and sea spray from entering. The slickest of these would be a solar powered vent that would dry out the locker daily in combination with the drain, which would also then serve as an air entry point during the day, but these are pretty expensive and not a practical solution, cost wise.
SEA3PO is taking orders for an improved style hatch cover on another thread presently that would have a better water seal, but wouldn't stop the condensation problem since they're not airtight.
Sorry to over-complicate the discussion, but thought I might add some caveats and discuss the alternatives a bit!
Good Luck!
Joe. :teeth :thup
The condensation occurs in a daily basis due to the hot days / cool nights cycle that leaves water on the locker walls at night to run down and collect on the locker floor, from which it doesn't easily evaporate during the ensuing day. (You probably know this, of course, but I'm a retired science teacher and am obligated to drop in explanations so that anyone not fully understanding something can follow along.)
That port locker is not open at the bottom and sealed on the sides so that it can be converted and used as a live well, at least if it is like the CD-22. Drilling a bunch of holes will somewhat limit that possibility. If you think you or someone else may want to use it for a live well someday, you might make a single hole or two after finding the lowest point(s) in the locker bottom, which then could be converted to a drain and another plumbing inlet/outlet later as part of a live well system.
If you do then find you do need the full four holes, the extra ones could be drilled, then skillfully glassed over later, if necessary, to form a live well.
Also, as you suggest, there are various types of vent fittings that could be put on the locker hatch cover that would allow air circulation in combination with the smaller hole or holes in the bottom. Some are passive, with baffles to prevent rain water and sea spray from entering. The slickest of these would be a solar powered vent that would dry out the locker daily in combination with the drain, which would also then serve as an air entry point during the day, but these are pretty expensive and not a practical solution, cost wise.
SEA3PO is taking orders for an improved style hatch cover on another thread presently that would have a better water seal, but wouldn't stop the condensation problem since they're not airtight.
Sorry to over-complicate the discussion, but thought I might add some caveats and discuss the alternatives a bit!
Good Luck!
Joe. :teeth :thup
I don't know if you can keep these areas totally free of condensation. There is leakage of the current hatches and that is why washing or rain gives water in the bilge. The other issue is the placement of the bilge pump, and how the boat sits either in the water or on a trailer.
I have water in the aft bilge in the CD 25, the Tom Cat and a self bailing 18 foot CC--I just accept it and keep the bilge pumped and as dry as possiable.
I have water in the aft bilge in the CD 25, the Tom Cat and a self bailing 18 foot CC--I just accept it and keep the bilge pumped and as dry as possiable.