Closing off the anchor area on a 22 Cruiser

H

Hayesie Daze

New member
Hello,

I was looking for some recommendations, solutions, etc. on how to close the exposed anchor area off in the v-berth. I would like to fabricate (or at least try to as painful as it may be) something like you see in the 25 cruiser with a hatch to access the chain/line. Thanks in advance.

Byron
 
I have been thinking of doing the same thing to my CD-22. Thinking that I might ultimately need to have relatively good access to the area for future repairs or to clean it, I am contemplating using epoxy to fasten wooden cleats to the hull and the underside of the deck and then screwing a bulkhead to the cleats. I would put a hatch in the new bulkhead that would be useful for untangling the anchor line but judging by the dimensions, I will be unable to have a hatch that is large enough for good maintenance access. Just a thought. I will be interested in seeing all the replies as I am sure that we will get some good ideas and advice.
 
I cut me a piece of luan (or very thin plywood) and bolted it to the anchor locker bulkhead. I cut a hole for access to the anchor rode, used a removable cover from the pluming department to cover the hole...covered the whole mess with hull linner...gots a picture of it in the innerds photo album......just one of many solutions
 
For visualization help:

CD-25 stock set up:

interior1.jpg



B~C's set up on CD-22: (Cat Optional)
cat_001.sized.jpg
NOTE: Entire cabin interior has been sprayed with sound proofing insulation.
See: Pain free insulation solution

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Another thought:

I like to see the rode come in and stack up as well as (but to a lesser degree) feed out through the windlass operation.

Perhaps a custom clear Lexan cover would accomplish this.

On the other hand, without a closed in bulkhead, the rode dries out a lot quicker, though you have to put up with some draft from the chain entrance hole and sometimes some smell from the rode.

A cover door could be easily enough opened and closed as needed, though.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I used a piece of clear lexan. I have a windlass and I like to be able to see the rode. Mostly I wanted a splash guard and not have the three hundred feet I carry wonder all over the v-birth . With a few stainless screws the hole job took less than an hour. I didn't enclose the opening all the way to each side so I can get my hand in there if the rode were to foul.
 
After pulling the anchor from a very nasty smelling bottom and spending the night with that smell I did the same. I just used a piece of cushion or seat foam cut to approximate size and wedge in between the short bulkhead and the overhead.

Easy to remove and replace if needed but not as fancy as painted wood or lexan.

Steve
 
I have two new lazaret hatch covers which I have not installed yet. Looks like the old lazaret hatches could be recycled for the anchor locker cover? There should be a lot of those available soon if they will fit.
 
I would prefer "floating" the divider (not a true bulkhead), from the underside of the deck and the lower part of the anchor locker bulkhead which is already glassed in. You can also use one of the round screw in inspection ports--8" diameter would be large enough to get the hands in and see what is going on.

If you want to completely seal this off (and I agree that you want to allow ventillation in this area), I probably would use foam along the sides of the hull, so that hull and can flex in this area, if it needs to. You don't want to have "hard spots" where bulkheads attatch to the hull.
 
We had our canvas man make a canvas cover for the opening on our 22 footer. Our cat loved to get in there and smell the bay bottom mud left on the chain. Then we had two problems a smelly cat and the smell of the mud. The simple canvas cover helped a lot.

Fred, Pat, and Mr Grey(the cat)
 
Sunbrella is very professional looking and breathes well.

Lots of materials can be used in this application, since no-ultra violet light deteriorates the fabric or material.

If you buy a snap kit to set the snaps in the material and mount them it the bulkhead with the complimentary screw heads, you have many choices of materials that will work.

With woven materials, a good sewing machine would make for nice boarders, though a utility knife, scissors, or hot knife might be a useful alternative for some others.

Ventilation can be adjusted by he number of snaps closed, or open, and even sold flexible plastic can used rather than woven fabrics.

Anyone with basket weaving, macrame, sheet metal, wood cabinetry, or some other skill can design their own hatch door.

The 10' x 24 Original Equipment internal cabin internal locker door in my Sea Ray v-berth is a polished metal mirror surface. But they're a kinky type of folk, as we all know.

How about an ultra thin TV/video screen for a high end solution?

Joe. :lol:
 
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