Cleaning Hull 1st time after bottom paint
- Thread starter Larry Patrick
- Start date
Riverjohn":16qqkvxg said:hardee":16qqkvxg said:5 coats of Epoxy and 2 of Petit Vivid. Some additional fee for the "appendages"
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Is color-matching a service that comes with an extra fee ?
Riverjohn, Good question, and I discussed that with Jessie at length. Yes to some degree, is the short answer. His recommendation was to use Henry Fords favorite color, because it matches everything and is easy to rematch when touching up, because it will need that along the line. Bottom paint by design wears off and fades by nature in it's effectiveness. So, rematching colors will not be easy, and getting exact matches to the topsides or trim colors will, again, not be easy or will the colors last. Soooooo, being that as it is, and thinking how nice that LBD, (little black dress) always looks, he highly recommends that for your boat. :smiled
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
hardee":34m19mjs said:Riverjohn":34m19mjs said:hardee":34m19mjs said:5 coats of Epoxy and 2 of Petit Vivid. Some additional fee for the "appendages"
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Is color-matching a service that comes with an extra fee ?
Riverjohn, Good question, and I discussed that with Jessie at length. Yes to some degree, is the short answer. His recommendation was to use Henry Fords favorite color, because it matches everything and is easy to rematch when touching up, because it will need that along the line. Bottom paint by design wears off and fades by nature in it's effectiveness. So, rematching colors will not be easy, and getting exact matches to the topsides or trim colors will, again, not be easy or will the colors last. Soooooo, being that as it is, and thinking how nice that LBD, (little black dress) always looks, he highly recommends that for your boat. :smiled
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Harvey,
Thanks! It's the learn to love Black scenario!
Thanks Peter, I remember how good C-Dancer looked but I didn't remember BitterEnd did the work.
I have a couple more questions about getting the bottom paint done.
#1. Regarding the new waterline resulting from the new paint job; where did it come in relation to where the color from the current bottom gelcoat line is? Did you wind up raising the water line from that line, and if so, how much?
And
#2. On the transom, where the out boards bolt to the transom, some of the bracket is above the waterline some below. Should that area be masked off and painted with the same paint as the outboard or does it get the same treatment as the hull?
Getting close to decision time. Thanks to
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
I have a couple more questions about getting the bottom paint done.
#1. Regarding the new waterline resulting from the new paint job; where did it come in relation to where the color from the current bottom gelcoat line is? Did you wind up raising the water line from that line, and if so, how much?
And
#2. On the transom, where the out boards bolt to the transom, some of the bracket is above the waterline some below. Should that area be masked off and painted with the same paint as the outboard or does it get the same treatment as the hull?
Getting close to decision time. Thanks to
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
The "waterline" should be at least an inch to an inch and a half above the "static" watering, you find when the boat is sitting in the water.
If you are using Vivid, or any aluminum comparable paint, then just run that paint over the bracket. Keep any paint off the zincs.
If you are using a non aluminum comparable paint, then mask off an area about 1" wide from the non compatible paint. Don't put the non aluminum paint within an inch of the bracket. I believe that both paints you are considering are compatible, so you are good to put this on the bracket.
If you are using Vivid, or any aluminum comparable paint, then just run that paint over the bracket. Keep any paint off the zincs.
If you are using a non aluminum comparable paint, then mask off an area about 1" wide from the non compatible paint. Don't put the non aluminum paint within an inch of the bracket. I believe that both paints you are considering are compatible, so you are good to put this on the bracket.
Thanks Bob, I knew about the zincs, but not about the 1 inch clearance.
When ate rest, with my OB's tilted up as far as they will go, they are still in the water a few inches. Also, because I am in 100% salt water, I have been leaving the OB's down when anchored or moored to keep from having salt deposits drying in the engine cooling paths. (I am not contemplating using summer moorage, but only short term dockage when cruising.)
For that reason, I am thinking it best to use some anti fouling paint on the outboards. Would the black Petit Vivid be the best for the Yamaha twins?
Also, I run stainless props so I am thinking they don't get painted. How about my aluminum spares?
Thanks for all your advice. Much appreciated as this is whole new territory for me.
Peter or Pat, (Or anyone who has had their bottoms done) What did you do with the outboards, and how has your experience worked out for you :?: :?:
Thanks All,
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
When ate rest, with my OB's tilted up as far as they will go, they are still in the water a few inches. Also, because I am in 100% salt water, I have been leaving the OB's down when anchored or moored to keep from having salt deposits drying in the engine cooling paths. (I am not contemplating using summer moorage, but only short term dockage when cruising.)
For that reason, I am thinking it best to use some anti fouling paint on the outboards. Would the black Petit Vivid be the best for the Yamaha twins?
Also, I run stainless props so I am thinking they don't get painted. How about my aluminum spares?
Thanks for all your advice. Much appreciated as this is whole new territory for me.
Peter or Pat, (Or anyone who has had their bottoms done) What did you do with the outboards, and how has your experience worked out for you :?: :?:
Thanks All,
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Harvey, I wash my engine out with fresh water whenever I can. For example this is not practical in most of AK where you are anchoring out every hight--or even in many of the Broughtons. But where fresh water is available, do it. Then I leave the engine tilted up. as much as possible. I have used small amounts of salt away in a 2 to 3 gallon garden sprayer, to do a very quick and small rinse, with a fitting to fit the Honda or Suzuki flush port. That may allow you to use "stream water" if available.
For my Caracal where I cannot get the outboard all of the way up--and my son's 25, we used one of the spray cans of material which I believe was the old fashioned "Tin" biocide--still available in limited quantities in some areas. We did only that much of the outboard which would be in the water. My son is having to leave his motor Down at the marina, or move to a 30 foot slip. I suggested a fresh water rinse and then a heavy duty trash bag over the lower unit before it goes back down. --that seems to be working well.
I would not paint the SS prop--you can put "prop Speed" or diaper rash material on the prop--since it is not in the water months at a time.
For my Caracal where I cannot get the outboard all of the way up--and my son's 25, we used one of the spray cans of material which I believe was the old fashioned "Tin" biocide--still available in limited quantities in some areas. We did only that much of the outboard which would be in the water. My son is having to leave his motor Down at the marina, or move to a 30 foot slip. I suggested a fresh water rinse and then a heavy duty trash bag over the lower unit before it goes back down. --that seems to be working well.
I would not paint the SS prop--you can put "prop Speed" or diaper rash material on the prop--since it is not in the water months at a time.
hardee":3k7txwt0 said:Are there any other reports comparing Vivid to Hyrocoat? I have been talking to Jesse at BitterEnd Boat Works and he is still recommending Vivid over the Hydorcoat, mostly because the Hydorcoat is newer and less experience with it I believe.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Two very different paints at different price points. vivid is a dual biocide, hybrid film (hard/ablative) with added slicking agents for soft growth prevention and speed for a list of around $270 per gallon. hydrocoat is a water based ablative ($200 per gl) that can be thinned and cleaned up with, you guessed it, water. water based paints save the yards voc count and save you brain cells if you apply them, but have no performance advantage over solvent based paints. vivid can be burnished to a very smooth finish and has the "whitest white" available, should you trailer your boat and not want the bottom to appear painted.
gulfcoast john
New member
This years Pettit Hydrocoat rebate promotion is Jan 1-May 31, 2017, $20 rebate per gal on max of 2 gal for HC SR and ECO, $10 each for plain un-flavored HC. Westmarine had usual sale for $129/gal (reg $179) Mar 16-19, plus triple Gold Membership rewards (12% back). $149/gal thru Mar 26. Gold is a good deal at $24/yr and includes BoatUS/Trailer Assist ($28/yr value). So Hydrocoat was $103.50/gal free delivery to my doorstep and I can safely and legally re-coat in the driveway anytime I want. Agree with Bob that Vivid is good and has better colors, but I favor black.
PM me if you want to help.
Happy Maintaining!
John
PM me if you want to help.
Happy Maintaining!
John
