Choice of Electric over hydraulic actuator

T

thataway

Active member
I am getting ready to put electric over hydraulic brakes on the "new" trailer.
There are three E/H actuator's available:
Hydrastar,
Titian (BrakeRite),
Dexter.

There are adaptors for the factory in cab brake controller by Hydrastar and Titian, (which are necessary for the GMC Yukon). The RV will have a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller. I suspect that either of the adaptors will work with the Dexter, but not "official".

All are 1500 to 1600 PSI for disc brakes. The titian has a plastic cover (which alone is not a concern, but lack of weather sealing may be an issue.

All of the units/components will be mounted above the trailer frame to avoid immersion during launch. (either on a stand, or on the tongue pedestal).

I will be putting in a "wash down" system, which will use a garden sprayer with "salt away" for immediate wrinse after launch, spraying directly onto the calipers and rotors.

Which actuator brand should I go with and why?

I am considering both Trailer Superstore, and E-Trailer supply--any experience with these? E-trailer had some complaints at "pissed customer"--Eastern Marine trailer superstore…none I could find. BBB, Eastern Marine A+, E-trailer no rating.

I'll make a note--I had considered plain electric brakes, and I may put them on the Caracal, which does not require brakes because it is less than 3000 lbs But the E/H Discs have a history of better stoping power, than electric brakes--as well as the concern about corrosion and being far easier to wrinse off after use.
Thanks
 
Bob, I cannot help with the actuator as the Hydrastar on "Wild Blue's" trailer is they only one I am familiar with, but I did just buy four new disc brake sets from the Trailer Superstore and am quite satisfied with the service. Though it was pretty expensive to ship all the way to the west coast, their pricing was good enough to make up the difference.
I bought my Prodigy controller from Etrailer and they were fine about taking the first one I mis-ordered back.

Tim
 
thataway":1mf60c6r said:
There are adaptors for the factory in cab brake controller by Hydrastar and Titian, (which are necessary for the GMC Yukon). The RV will have a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller. I suspect that either of the adaptors will work with the Dexter, but not "official".
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Can't comment on anything other than Hydrastar, but along those lines - I was advised by Hydrastar that their HBA-CAM adaptor (required for compatibility with many brake controllers) doesn't get in the way of any controller for which it is not needed.

So, while you may already know this - for anyone going with Hydrastar, it's not a bad idea to simply toss one into the mix regardless. That way, your trailer can be towed by virtually any modern brake controller on the market - factory or otherwise.
 
Thanks Tim and Bill, Good to know that service was good. I think that each of the (Titian and Hydrastar) built in adaptors are a very good idea--for not many$$! It also makes you wonder why GM and Ford put the controllers in the trucks, and they will not work with E/H actuators. Good point that the adaptor be put on the trailer, rather than the truck!
 
thataway":3g0971bw said:
It also makes you wonder why GM and Ford put the controllers in the trucks, and they will not work with E/H actuators.
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Actually...it makes me wonder why Hydrastar doesn't integrate the HBA-CAM logic and/or chipset into their actuators. I'll bet dollars to donuts we'd be talking about a few extra bucks in components.

It's not like factory brake controllers are a fringe item...one would think they are common enough that Hydrastar would want their actuators to work universally, regardless of what was on the other end. Not to mention, given that the HBA-CAM needs to be integrated into the trailer wiring - it's yet one more place where wiring gremlins from corrosion/connections can take place.
 
I just re-wired the Hydrastar actuator on our TomCat trailer. I also bought and installed an HBA-Cam module to make it work with the 2012 Ford F350. The 12V positive and the ground wires both had corroded over time. I bought another 24" brake hose and moved the actuator up to the level of the 2nd step on the front of the trailer. Now there is no chance of submerging the actuator.

I have been happy with the Hydrastar. It has worked well since 2005, up until the wires corroded, but that's not the fault of the actuator.

I have bought from eTrailer a few times, and always had excellent service and fast shipping. Usually free shipping on orders over $99.00
 
I have bought a number of things from e-Trailer, over a period of years. I have found them to be fantastic. Here is why I like them:

1) Good item descriptions, with photos, including some added by customers, post installation.

2) Q & A from customers that you can view, plus you can ask a question. When you ask a question they go right out to the warehouse, get the item in hand, measure it (or whatever you asked about) and then post it back on the website. Sometimes even with drawings/measurements/angles/etc. They understand what they are looking at and are not just "sales drones" who have no idea about the products. I have found this to be extremely helpful for certain things where I just couldn't tell online (at any site).

3) Reviews, and it does not look like they sensor any bad ones. Nor does it look like they "encourage" reviews to the point where people just post meaningless things to get "points" or whatever.

4) Helpful videos that show you more about a product and/or answer questions.

5) Very responsive staff if an issue arises (something I ordered has been on back order from the mfgr since JULY and e-Trailer has kept in communication with me on their initiative).

6) Lastly (and I say that because the other things are more important to me) they have a good selection and competitive prices.
 
Sunbeam,
Glad you had a good customer experience--One of the reasons I asked is because E Trailer have 72 reviews (mostly negativ ) on Pissed off Customer--and EasternMarine has none (and an A+ BB rating).

I wrote my first negative review (GearX) on Amazon a couple of days ago. (claimed an item was in stock, then claimed to have shipped it, and a couple of days later I get an e-mail that they could not find the item in their warehouse.) I got the same Item from Austin Kayak for over 30% less.
 
I'm a fan of e-trailer for the same reasons Sunbeam states. My only minor gripe is shipping speed. I've been spoiled by the likes of Amazon and many others, who tend to ship out everything same day or next. I've had e-trailer take 2 business days to get things sent out, which ain't terrible - but in this age of near instant online gratification, they could do a little better in that regard. I've never had to return something to them, so have no idea how their customer service is in that regard.

And, while e-trailer's selection is pretty decent - they've not always had what I've needed for marine specific trailer parts/products. I've also used www.boattrailerparts.com for many items recently - specifically aluminum components for my FloatOn. Good prices, great selection and quick shipping.
 
good to hear about e-Trailer. have been looking there for some lights....and wondering about all those things you hear/see about the online dealers.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

January_2010_181.thumb.jpg
 
I'm gathering the parts to do this as well. On the recommendation of eTrailer I went with the BrakeRite II system. I've received all the parts and am now just waiting for the planets to align so I can do the job.

The BrakeRite II stuff looks pretty durable. All the wires are protected and terminated with waterproof connectors. I've also purchased the mounting pedestal made by Pacific Trailers to hang everything off of and keep it higher off the frame. Here's a description of an install with a good picture of the thing installed: http://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/th...n-to-e-h-and-tongue-extension-project.355431/

If you want to go your own route, here's a nice description with lots of photos of a custom install of the BrakeRite II: http://www.thehulltruth.com/trucks-...electric-over-hydraulic-brakes-how-i-did.html

Food for thought.
 
Bob, The Carlisle HydraStar works perfectly with the 2006 Ford built-in controller. No adapter needed. I mounted mine way up out of the way so it would stay dry.
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Lots of choices. I have noted that there are several Radio frequency controllers--which eliminates wiring. Too many chances to interference for my taste--so I will go with hard wiring. There is always the risk of theift of batteries. I probably would remove the breakaway batteries if leaving the trailer for any length of time. Also a bit of either plastic cameo paint would tend to discourage theft of the actuator. Most folks suggest some corrosion preventing materials on all of the connectors, and then using liquid tape on the outside to seal the connector--since you will not be taking it apart.

Definitely the actuator needs to be elevated.

Orders are going in today, and will start on the trailer tomorrow--lowering the bunks, putting two rollers on the front, pulling wheels/hubs, and getting it up on jack stands for the work.
 
Just out of pure curiosity...

I wonder if there's some way to wire the break-away to the batteries on the boat. Could just plug it in to a downrigger outlet (or something similar). Maybe even install an outlet on the bow somewhere. You'd have to remember to connect/disconnect it whenever you launched the boat. (Shouldn't be any worse than having to remember to make sure the drain plug was in.) But, it seems like it might be a good way to avoid having to purchase/maintain another battery.

Just a thought.
 
AK Angler":1w02xeu5 said:
Just out of pure curiosity...

I wonder if there's some way to wire the break-away to the batteries on the boat. Could just plug it in to a downrigger outlet (or something similar). Maybe even install an outlet on the bow somewhere. You'd have to remember to connect/disconnect it whenever you launched the boat. (Shouldn't be any worse than having to remember to make sure the drain plug was in.) But, it seems like it might be a good way to avoid having to purchase/maintain another battery.

Just a thought.
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The small batteries used for the breakaway are fairly cheap <$30 so it doesn't make that much difference in the big scheme of things. I just replaced mine this year as the trailer is about 4 years old and I wanted to err on the side of safety.
 
AK Angler":3tl3mz4d said:
Just out of pure curiosity...

I wonder if there's some way to wire the break-away to the batteries on the boat. Could just plug it in to a downrigger outlet (or something similar). Maybe even install an outlet on the bow somewhere. You'd have to remember to connect/disconnect it whenever you launched the boat. (Shouldn't be any worse than having to remember to make sure the drain plug was in.) But, it seems like it might be a good way to avoid having to purchase/maintain another battery.

Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Actually legally when the trailer is used you have to have that breakaway system--this includes when the boat is not on the trailer. Not sure if a boat wired in would pass muster with DOT--and in case of a really serious accident, the boat could depart the trailer…

On the other hand, on several of our boats, we had a charging circuit to the boat's batteries from the truck. We will include that in this setup--since on of the 7 pin connector's lugs are for that purpose. This way you can keep the freezer/refer running in the boat on the road. You want to disconnect this at night, so the truck battery is not drawn down--or there are other options, since as using a "house battery" in the tow vehicle. For example in our Yukon, there is space under the hood for a second battery--and we are adding that, along with a VSR, to keep it charged--and it will be for running refer freezer either in the truck or in the boat.
 
Bob, when I wired up the boat batteries, as you suggested, for running the refrigerator, I noticed that the Ford had relays for all the lights and power coming through the trailer connector. So, when I turn off the motor, I'm shutting down the power line to the boat. Not a chance of running down the truck battery.

What marvels these new things be. Beats that Model A I with which started.

Boris
 
thataway":v8bdcyez said:
Actually legally when the trailer is used you have to have that breakaway system--this includes when the boat is not on the trailer. Not sure if a boat wired in would pass muster with DOT--and in case of a really serious accident, the boat could depart the trailer…
Click to expand...

Actually, Bob... you're wrong. And since you're in Florida, I made the effort to look up Florida law on the matter. You only need a functioning breakaway system if your gross towed weight (not your gross weight rating) is over 3000 pounds. Most unloaded C-Dory trailers would be well under that limit.

TITLE XXIII Chapter 316.261(4) AUTOMATIC TRAILER BRAKE APPLICATION UPON BREAKAWAY.—Every trailer, semitrailer, and pole trailer with air or vacuum-actuated brakes, every trailer and semitrailer with a gross weight in excess of 3,000 pounds, and every pole trailer with a gross weight in excess of 3,000 pounds manufactured or assembled after January 1, 1972, shall be equipped with brakes acting on all wheels and of such character as to be applied automatically and promptly, and remain applied for at least 15 minutes, upon breakaway from the towing vehicle.
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(Emphasis mine.)
 
Rod,
Thanks for pointing that out. I would still would use the specific battery on the trailer--for a multiple of reasons. I would play it safe. I always hook up the emergency brake disconnect if the trailer is loaded or unloaded.

Certainly a C Dory trailer would not weight 3000 lbs--in fact mine weighed 1080 lbs. There are a number of other trailers such as one which carried a Bob Cat, or back hoe, where the empty weight would be over 3000 lbs.

I suspect that if there were an accident, and attorneys were involved, there could be an argument. In Florida statute (further down in Chapter,316,)
"(7) “Gross weight” means the net weight of a motor vehicle in pounds plus the weight of the load carried by it."

One of the possible scenarios is the boat comes off the trailer during an accident (not as uncommon as one might think--and we saw one this summer where that happened--boat and trailer separate in the medium and the truck upside down). Then the trailer is free from the boat--and there was/is no break away braking, with the boat off the trailer. Yet during the accident the trailer was loaded to its "load".
 
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