CD25 Freshwater hose configuration

L

LesR

Member
Looking for confirmation or additional considerations for cleaning up my freshwater hose configuration.

Background: We removed the water heater a few years ago, and I'm in the process of cleaning up and replacing the bilge pump under the cabin step and the shower sump in the aft port locker. Taking things apart has made it easier to remove the couple old hot water lines also.

In the case of our 2007 CD25, all three cold water lines separate in the bilge near the water pump, so there are three separate cold water lines (faucet, head, shower) running the same path to the galley area. I was thinking of running a single water line from the pump to the galley, where I would then separate to three lines. This would seem (to me, at least) to simplify the system, and I find that working under the galley cabinet easier than the bilge area. Any other considerations or drawbacks that I'm not considering?

In the future, I expect to replace our head with a composting model, so a water line to the head won't be needed at that point. If I do re-install a water heater, my plan is to install a smaller unit under the galley cabinet, where it can be fed from the same cold water line and allow short lines to the faucet and shower.
 
I don't see any problem. I have the exact same configuration that you have. I am puzzled as to why they put in the extra lines. I still have the water heater, but am considering putting a small (1 to 2 gallon, rapid heat, (1200 watt) heaters under the galley, near the head shower. When I do that I will have just one water line from the pump (I do have a fresh water wash down in the cockpit), and that will split under the galley to shower, water heater, and the cold water to sink.

We already have the Air Head. But we do use the shower also.
 
On our 2003 the cold water does not divide intill it is in the area below the sink and stove, I replaced the entire system as it was old and a bit funky and it all has been working great. We took out the port side 6 gallon water heater and installed a 2.5 gallon Bosch one under and in back of the galley sink. It is small, compact, and built with very high quality materials, it heats up very quickly and being so close it is almost instant hot water from a space that isn't very good for storage.I ordered it through Home Depot. There is a somwhat cluttered photo of it in my photo album that might help if you want hot water again
I hope this helps, good luck.
 
Micah , The2003 has the water tank forward, and only had one hose. when the aft holding tank was eliminated, the water tank was moved Into the place where the holding tank was located.

I'll have to check to see if there is room in my 2007 boat outboard of the sink. I have a lot of wiring running outboard, and would be concerned about temperature on the outside of the case. Is there any insulation surrounding the tank? I was considering putting it just forward to the head.

Thanks for the thoughts and photo.
 
I also have all the wiring running up along the far back top, the Bosch is small enough to leave a good amount of space so in our setup the wiring is not affected. It is well insulated and stays warm for hours if you don't use the water so once it is hot and has been sitting the recovery is very fast. So the way we use it (Dana stays on board a few days a week so that she will have a short commute to her O.R. nursing job) is she turns it on with an easy to reach switch, washes dishes and so on the turns it off for the night, it is still warm enough for her to use in the morning, the hot water is of course left switched off for the day. Compared to the 6 gallon space waster that was to far away from the sink this set up has been amazing as we don't need 6 gallons, at the dock we have showers and at anchor we live without the electric hot water, on the diesel Tug it was also heated by the engine so the 6 gallon was more functional, it seems a total waste of space on these C-dorys. And yes our water tank is forward if that makes a difference, I love having an empty holding tank aft with the big batterys and max motors.
I hope this input is helpful.
 
Bob, if you remember my thred about a watermaker question, in the end I decided by moving to a smaller lighter more efficient water heater behind the sink (almost went in front of the head but still to usefull for storage) we could install the watermaker in the old water heater space. And with the weight savings on the heater and not having to carry extra water we would net out at less weight, I am going to make the watermaker a slide out aluminum frame so it will be easily removable when not cruising in the Sea of Cortez for the winter. I am curious as unlike the R25 Tugs semi-displacement hul I hope our planing hull will still work out OK at long term cruising weight, I do realize that I will be at displacement speeds for a lot of our trip to save fuel. You had the same boat as ours in the past, our new Suzuki 200 4 is very fuel efficient, is there a speed above planing that is somewhat efficient on a heavy cruise?

I realize some of this is off thred, hope that is OK, thanks.
 
Micah,
Thanks for the info--I don't think I'll have time to put the Bosch in during the next 10 days for our upcoming cruise, but I certainly am putting that high on the next priority list. Great to know about the efficiency of the heater. I'll probably glass in a platform for under--I think I have a wooden block already close enough for the aft strap. (in my boat there is a secondary 12 volt distribution system, with fuse panel, and bus bars on the hull under the galley--including "pre wiring" for solar panel and controller. (Panels were never installed by PO.)

With your 200 hp, I don't see an issue, with loading-which will probably be more than ours even with all of the supplies for AK. But in AK we only had the 130 Honda--which was underpowered for heavy boat. The 150 is marginal on the current boat when loaded and I suspect that the fiberglass interior is lighter than the earlier wood interior. But with the 200 I suspect you will find that about 17 or so statute miles per will be a reasonably efficient cruise. Tom on Sea Otter has the 200. He or one of the others with the 200 may hop in to answer.

Great idea on the water maker slide out. I'll be interested to see photos of the installation...along with intake, filters and discharge thru hulls. The Ventura 200 sounds like a great water maker unit for your needs.
 
Bob thank you for the reply, the watermaker is on order and I will take some photos to put up in my album. I hope to have it well sorted out by the time we leave early January. Our boat had Mermaid air when we bought it that I removed so I already have a separate through hull inlet and outlet so it shouldn't be to hard, I installed a Katadyn 40 in our sailboat and will be curious to see how the Ventura 200 will work out, it looks really good.
Good luck and fair winds on your upcoming cruise!
 
Great on the thru hulls for the Watermaker. I have ordered the Bosch Water Heater, and will try and get it in place during the next 10 days..

Thanks
 
Bob and Micah,
Thanks so much for your detailed responses. It's helpful to know there aren't some Hydrodynamic Engineering Best Practices I'm ignoring by running a single water line into the cabin and splitting there.


Les
 
Bosch heater arrived today. I am going to leave the dual water lines, because it is easier to hook up the Bosch that way; I have a manifold next to the pump, for the fresh water wash down, as well as the two hoses going forward. Also I set the fresh water pump on a Starboard platform, out of the bilge (but ours is aft, where water can be an issue.

Platform for the water heater has the epoxy coating drying now. Legs (aft) and cleat forward have been fashioned. Starting to remove the old heater and tidy up the water lines this PM. I am going to run the electrical off the original breaker. I'll probably set the temp at the max. because there is a mixing valve at the shower, which has the temperature easily set. That tends to use a little less water.
 
Bob, wow you are making fast progress, I used the original breaker also, then to a switched outlet as our breakers are a bit inconvenient. Are you wireing yours drectly to the breaker without the plug? That would be a really reliable setup. Isn't all the extra space where the old heater was nice?
I hope you are as happy as we are with your new water heater!
Please let us know, thanks
 
Ref the hoses. On my boat (2007, with fiberglass interior. There are 3 hoses going forward from the manifold under the cockpit. One goes to shower cold water, one to galley, cold water, and one to the water heater.

Also, since my bundle of wires, control cables etc go thru a 3" diameter plastic grommet in the bulkhead, probably a bit inboard of the one in wooden interior boats, there is not as much room behind the forward bulkhead of the galley. The heater will still fit--and be 3" off the shelf on its own shelf. I also have to slightly lower the drain (and tailpipe) from the sink drain.

I will do a tutorial on what is needed for the newer boats, as the project evolves.

Yes, there is a lot more space opened up where the old water heater was. The shelf in the water heater compartment was supported by the water heater, and there were no cleats holding up the shelf--. I will put in cleats, and set it at about the same height.

It is definitely worth the time and relatively minor expense to remove the old water heater, and have almost instant hot water, less water use, and increased storage. In our boat the refrigerator (45 liter top loading chest), is on the port side, so I am not worried about the "balance" by moving the water heater.
 
There are 4 water hoses coming out from under the shower/head floor--two hot and two cold. The single "hot" hose, goes into a "Y" under the shower. I was able to access the "Y" and substitute a single connector, to use for supply of the water to the water heater. I believe the hose and some of the wiring, was put in the boat, before the deck and cabin house were placed on the boat.
 
I got tired of the hassle of trying to pull stuff through behind and under the head so now I have left in permanent pull though lines. The tug was an all molded interior and was hard to add on to without cutting access hatches everywhere.
 
When ever I have to pull a wire or hose, I always leave behind a pull thru line. There was already a pull thru line from under the galley, below the shower pan, and into the step area where there is a bilge pump. However, that was so tangled it was worthless pulling a pulling the 10 gauge triplex 110 V wire for the new water heater. It was easy to push a steel fishing tape, under the head, and then pull the wire behind the steel tape. A second pulling wire was left in place.

I also label all of the hoses with colored Zip ties: Blue for cold, and red for hot. These labels (along with written labels) were placed anywhere a hose or wire set went thru a bulkhead--on both sides if possible.
 
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