Just bought a used cd22 and, in drilling to install trim tabs, I found water in the top 6 inches of the transom core. I have read everything in the forum on transom repair (very informative). My question is on the SEACAST repair system. I have seen their repair site and it looks like a good system. HAVE ANY OF YOU ACTUALLY USED THIS SYSTEM? ARE YOU SATISFIED? HOW MUCH MORE WEIGHT DOES THE REPAIR PUT ON AN ALREADY STEARN HEAVY BOAT?
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CD22 transom repair question
- Thread starter anchorout
- Start date
Cured Seacast weight is 31 lbs per five gallon bucket. Probably 3 five gallon buckets for a complete C Dory transom replacement.
The question is why is the upper (?) six inches water saturated? Is the plywood core turned to mush? There is probably a void or leak where the hull to deck joint is--which is under the black cap. does it involve the entire transom, or only part of it?
The only transom I have replaced I used marine plywood, epoxy saturated. We cut the old transom outer glass out about 1" in from the outer sides and bottom, and saved the entire outer skin. We then routed out the rotten transom (it was like thousands of toothpicks. Then we coated the old inner core with wet glass met, set the first layer of plywood in, then epoxy and the second layer of plywood, finally another layer of mat and the outer layer of glass. We drilled about a half a dozen new holes for bolts, as well as old holes (trim tabs, towing eyes, motor mount holes, and tightened the bolts, as well as "C" clamps on the top. After this set up we filled the non usable holes with epoxy, and then filled where the old cuts were, and gel coated the entire transom. It looked like new--and 10 years later is still like new.
This was on a 20 foot Grady White. Perhaps a better option today is Coosa board.
The symptom was that the motor would flex the transom. Motor up to trailer position--my body weight on the lower unit would allow the motor to move about 4"--flex in the transom. Can you flex the transom? Have you pulled the motor, and cap?
In your case, if it is only the first 6", and the plywood is just wet, not rotten or disintegrated, then I would consider drying the transom, and then filllng with epoxy, I am not sure I would do a partial a repair with Seacast. Seacast specificalliy states do not do a partial repair.
The question is why is the upper (?) six inches water saturated? Is the plywood core turned to mush? There is probably a void or leak where the hull to deck joint is--which is under the black cap. does it involve the entire transom, or only part of it?
The only transom I have replaced I used marine plywood, epoxy saturated. We cut the old transom outer glass out about 1" in from the outer sides and bottom, and saved the entire outer skin. We then routed out the rotten transom (it was like thousands of toothpicks. Then we coated the old inner core with wet glass met, set the first layer of plywood in, then epoxy and the second layer of plywood, finally another layer of mat and the outer layer of glass. We drilled about a half a dozen new holes for bolts, as well as old holes (trim tabs, towing eyes, motor mount holes, and tightened the bolts, as well as "C" clamps on the top. After this set up we filled the non usable holes with epoxy, and then filled where the old cuts were, and gel coated the entire transom. It looked like new--and 10 years later is still like new.
This was on a 20 foot Grady White. Perhaps a better option today is Coosa board.
The symptom was that the motor would flex the transom. Motor up to trailer position--my body weight on the lower unit would allow the motor to move about 4"--flex in the transom. Can you flex the transom? Have you pulled the motor, and cap?
In your case, if it is only the first 6", and the plywood is just wet, not rotten or disintegrated, then I would consider drying the transom, and then filllng with epoxy, I am not sure I would do a partial a repair with Seacast. Seacast specificalliy states do not do a partial repair.
Thanks Bob: After further exploration, it was as you predicted. The cap had a slight separation, allowing water penetration. The grey board had melted in a 6 inch section about 4 inched deep. The core looks new, but is saturated down to about 8 inches. I have removed about 6 inches on the stbd side and am still finding wet wood. Is there a secret way to dry out the core, besides heat, vacuum air? I don't have a year in the desert type time. Here in Louisiana things don't dry out with age, they mildew.
My next move will be to remove the engine and check under the cap in that area.
I have poured through all the forum pics and discussions but any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
I will keep you posted.
My next move will be to remove the engine and check under the cap in that area.
I have poured through all the forum pics and discussions but any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
I will keep you posted.
Yes, I would remove the engine. To dry you will have to drill many holes, then use heat and a dehumidifier. I will be in NO next week, if you are near there, I have a marine dehumidifier I can bring over and you can borrow. The best way is to tape off the area with plastic, use a shop van, heater and dehumidifier. Even then it can take months. Give me a phone call--I am PM my number to you.
Thataway: Thank you so much for the wise words and kind offer for use of the humidifier. I have been told that using the thin epoxy penetrant method should suffice, once the core is dried out. I have heat lamps on both sides of the transom, have bored holes vertically through the core, for ventilation, and things seem to be drying out down below. The motor does not move when tilted fully up and me sitting on the foot. I think all will work out for the best.