CD 18 restoration

H

hanuman

New member
Hello, and "hisashiburi" (Japanese for long-time-no-see), here's an update on the Cd 18 I rescued last Summer.

Back then I managed to bring her to her new home in my workshop. I pulled out the old rusty trailer and "Beamed" her just inside the door. Later this fall I have progressively torn into her problem areas (she's actually one big mess of a problem). However, since I was going to build my own boat along these or a Panga's lines, I still consider myself fortunate and excited about the project at hand.

First, I cut off what was left of the house. This will have several benefits. First thought was that I eventually want to turn her turtle over and repair, fair, and refinish her hull with epoxy. Having her upside down for this is the cat's pajamas as far as I'm concerned. This is is most easily done with the house off. Also, as you can see in the new photos, it will be reassembled with higher headroom. I'm still experimenting with combinations of three inches forward/five or four inches back and compensate with taller windows etc.

Currently, I'm doing a demo in the transom where I'll replace the rotten Balsa core with two layers of 3/4 marine ply. The rear lazarette sections were cut out with an eye to reinstall them. The original "custom" live-wells and holes were done by Stevie Wonder on Acid it seems.

The work will continue to progress in manageable sections from the transom turning onto the floors which will be cored with closed cell foam.

At the turn from transom to floor and continuing through the first 14 to 16 inches of floor this area will become a a shallow reinforced bilge with scuppered baffles and the attendant pump to control sloshing and deal with C-Dory's infamous " "swamp". The new 1.5 to 2 inch floor will progress beyond this as original.

Progress will continue on the transom with the addition of a short motor mount extension with an integrated but rather small swim platform.

Proper engineering with strength-to-weight considerations will be paramount.

Aloha for now, Tim
 
Tim Said:
"Also, as you can see in the new photos, it will be reassembled with higher headroom."
Click to expand...

Hi Tim,

Sounds and looks like an big project. Couldn't find any new photos. Could they have gotten into another album? Would like to follow along.

Good luck with your project.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
I also would love to see some photos. I wonder how much of the bottom you will do with two layers of 3/4" ply. The weight addition could be substantial aft. I wonder why plywood, rather than one of the rigid foams?

It sounds like a great project! Keep us posted.
 
Hi, sorry folks. I had quite a few photos to show and had trouble with the download. You know where it says, ..."please be patient" as the arrows fly by; well, an hour with them still flying and I had to leave. I'm tied up for a few days but I'll get on it. Any suggestions as to what went wrong? I must confess I do adequately with design and hand-craft, but this cyber stuff has left me in the stone-ages.

In answer to one query; no, I will not be using marine ply in the floors and yes I'll be using a rigid foam there.

Here's a couple of recent observations:

(A) old foam flotation infills can be removed relatively safely using a 4 1/2" wire wheel on a right-angle grinder. With breathing and proper eye protection needless-to-say, I removed everything from transom and gunwales, literally, in about 30 minutes! Be forewarned the stuff flies everywhere, but it's so easy it's almost fun....almost.

(B) I've read and seen lots of examples of fixing screw holes and such in areas with balsa core penetrations. When you do see my photos it will be patently obvious the serious wet rot involvement in the transom. (The previous owner was nigh due for some horrendous catastrophic failure back there. He was lucky.) Anyway, the whole area below and adjacent to the splash well cut-away had gone "anaerobic" years ago and the most extreme areas had nothing but a huge void with air pockets mixed with a black "applesauce" that was once balsa.

You can also see what appears to be really great looking core in the starboard and port aft corners high up. Looks are deceiving. Every square inch of this transom was wet when I opened it, even in these "pristine" looking areas.

So, here's the heads-up everyone! Tapping is not necessarily the best way so locate core problems. And you may think you fixed the "minor" screw hole or crack with the old "twirl the hole with an Allen wrench" and fill with epoxy trick. You may just be locking in a whole lot of intruded wet....is a recipe for applesauce.
 
hanuman-

Nice write up!

Looking forward to your photos!

The reason they might not be uploading may be that the files are too large. You may have to upload them to another one of those hosting sites where their computers can re-process them to take up less space.

The C-Brat server has rejected some of mine in the past, just spinning, and spinning, etc. I think it will automatically re-size some photos, but not if they are beyond a certain upper limit.

Thanks for the report!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I have had the same situation, when trying to add all five photos at once. Mine worked best with 3 at a time. S L O W ......... But it does work.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

IMGP6377.highlight.jpg
 
Thanks you guys. That did the trick! Did three photos at a time and occasionally just one. Really appreciate contact with a great bunch of folks.
Mahalo Nui Loa (thank you very much) and Aloha for now Tim
 
Afterthought #3,

If one thinks they have a suspect core, DON'T GUESS or just make a tiny exploratory hole. Core sample it with a large (1" or 2" or more) hole saw. We have the means these days to make such "surgery" disappear with epoxies & such. Anything else is gambling with your (and usually other people's) life!
 
Photos make the situation much clearer--great work--and excellent points. (That everyone needs to take careful note of). Do the epoxy fill before there is water intrusion into the core.

Interesting that the transom was done with Balsa (of course lower HP and lighter engines. I had mistaken that you were also replacing the bottom with plywood--now I understand. Sorry.

There is a thread on The Hull Truth about doing exactly what you are doing with the deck house. In that case the builder got some signs which had vinly on the surface which were easily waxed and began by rolling on several layers of gel coat, then mat and finally cloth to relaminate the space between the separated layers of deck house and it came out very nicely with little cosmetic work on the outside when done.

I enjoyed the photos of city of refuge--long time since I have been there, but it looks like no changes!

Thanks! Keep us posted on the good works--are you sure you aren't going to stretch the boat 2 to 4 feet while you are at it? (Its been done).
 
Tim,

Glad the photo add tip worked for you. WOW, you are doing great there. You will have a worthy prize upon completion.

Thanks for the pix of Ciy of Refuge. It is my favorite place on the "Big" island.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Thanks Bob, Harvey, and Joe for your comments; much appreciated. Yes, when I was considering a "Panga" type vessel I was hovering around 18 to 20ft. Fuel economy and shallow draft for Honaunau is critical. But, I cant see adding some length. I've seen that project (fine job by the way) here and it seems manageable but I my case unnecessary. Who knows, I might come to regret it later. The only plan, as I said, is to build a short motor mount/swim step extension. All my life I've spent more time IN the water than ON it.

So the idea is to combine easy in and out access and moving the motor back just enough to make it possible to pass through the splash well gap. This provides room to haul in the big Ahi or Ono (wahoo) I plan to shoot out in "the Big Blue".

Also here in the lee of the Big Island seas run with a long swell or it can be somewhat flat. But, when it does kick up it's usually a "souwester" called "Kona Wind". These can pop up quick and are usually nasty beasts. Therefore, I'm looking forward to the C-Dory's sea-kindly pedigree.
 
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