Catastrophic failure of Honda BF150

Salmon Fisher":3asq5g04 said:
Thanks Sandy for a great test ride yesterday, that Yamaha 200 is awesome!!!
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You are very welcome Patrick. It was great fun for me too since you and Fred are so much more accomplished than me-the-newbie at driving these CD25s. The way you handled the boat gave me real insight on how much I still have to learn :lol:.
The Yamaha just purrs at 3400 rpm with a SOG of 17 mph, which is a very comfortable smooth cruise speed for us. With our Honda, 15x15 aluminum prop, same speed is around 4800 rpm.

5000 rpm was 32 mph with Yamaha on a stretch of smooth water!
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These are some of the same results I posted a page or two back in this thread. Note these speeds (in MPH not knots) vs RPMs are with my current SS S4x14.65x15R prop. I only get 5300 RPM at WOT with this prop; also I don't really need these high speeds (I get ~35, maybe even 37, MPH at WOT), so I'm considering buying an aluminum 13" pitch prop. Going from 15" to 13" pitch ought to get me an additional 400 RPM not only at WOT, but also give me the slower speeds I prefer at various "sweet spots" throughout the RPM range. For example, the engine seems to purr at 3300 RPM, but the boat now does 18 MPH at that RPM level, and I would prefer the 14-15 MPH that I expect to get with a 13" pitched prop. Of course, I'm not simply giving that speed away; I will also pick up more power/torque with the 13" pitch prop. The 200 HP engine provides more than adequate power for the CD25 with the existing 15" pitch prop, but given my gunk-hole style of cruising, I prefer more power rather than speed (hole shot, wave dancing, quick response, etc).
 
journey on":b9h60rpj said:
Just out of curiosity, what was the Yamaha's mileage (gallon per nautical mile, or something) while you were planing, hull speed, wot, etc.?
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As Patrick pointed out, I supplied a whole range of these numbers with the Yamaha 200 further back in this thread; however, I did not contrast those fuel rates with the Honda 150 numbers I have.

Just to give you an idea.....at the "sweet spot" I like of 3300, I get 18 MPH and get 3.1 MPG (and 5.6 GPH) with the Yamaha 200. With the Honda 150 I got the following:

RPM MPH MPG GPH
3000 10 2.2 4.5
3500 13 2.8 4.6
4000 18 2.8 6.5

So as expected, I do use more fuel per hour (~1 gallon per hour) at a similar RPM, but less fuel (also ~1 gallon per hour) at a similar MPH. So the boat seems to be more efficient (stern more out of the water??), so what really counts, MPG, is actually better with the larger engine! OTOH, perhaps this increase in efficiency has to do with problems in the old Honda 150, or the older technology that it represented.
 
Thanks for the info.

The C-Dory 25 gas mileage responds well to a lighter weight. While the boat was being re-motored, you may have unloaded the boat.

Boris
 
While the boat was being re-motored, you may have unloaded the boat.
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Nope. Both sets of numbers (Honda 150 & Yammy 200) were taken while cruising with nearly the identical equipment, supplies, and one person (me)......right down to the same amount of fuel (1/2 tank) and water (full tank). If anything, I added weight during the re-power since, for example, I added a 35 amp charger. BTW, the two engines differ by only 4 pounds in weight.

Perhaps the Honda 150 was particularly inefficient when the data for that engine were taken since, unbeknowst to me, it was on its last legs
 
I just bought a 25 Cruiser with a 2005 150 BANJ1201579.
After hearing stories of failures I stated looking at mine. Only thing I had was small end play in crank.. Honda will not acknowledge a problem with motors below 200 HP. Well I found a repair facility(not a Honda dealer) who has done several of these repairs before. They did some checking and found that Honda does make a repair kit for the thrust bearing issue for the 150 HP. They even sell it at cost. $15.00. It contains new improved bearings and a spring to help hold the weight of the rotating assembly.

I had three choices, do nothing and know the motor will fail, trade it in and get next to nothing and pay 12K or so for a new one or take the 150 I have a repair it prior to total failure.

So I decided that repairing it was worth the risk. Opened up motor to find it in great shape. Thrust bearing where wearing but not as to affect the block.
So we put in new bearing for crank rod and thrust kit.

Did not do rings because cylinders where in great shape and pistons where not removed.

Final bill was 3K.

I would suggest that anyone that has one of these motors check the end play on the crank. This is very easy to do.
Take the top cover off the motor. Get a pry bar. Stand behind the motor on the right side facing forward and locate the flywheel. It has a cover on it but that doesn't have to be removed. With the pry bar gently place the bar under the edge of the flywheel and the top of the motor housing. Pull down gently and feel how much the flywheel moves. You might be able to hear the crank bottom out as you release the pressure. If the flywheel moves, then take it to a mechanic. To much wear will eat through the thrust bearing and into the block at that point it is not repairable!
 
Thanks for the post. How many hours did your engine have on it? I checked my 150, and there was virtually zero end play when we bought it at less than 300 hours. Your post is a good reminder that we all should check these thru the life of the engine.
 
I have 2 BF150s. this thread gives me the heebyjeebees. I have to trouble shoot the rough idle on one today. Might as well do some gentle prying on that fly wheel.
 
I would suggest that anyone that has one of these motors check the end play on the crank. This is very easy to do.
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As the guy who started this thread and who lost my Honda 150 only a year after purchase (also ~1000 hours), DO THIS.

Had I done this simple test before I purchased, I would have known I had the problem. BTW, my research said some of this vintage 150s crap out like this, but most do not. It's a design flaw, and failure is luck of the draw.
 
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