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cabin lights
- Thread starter Taran
- Start date
The bulbs in your cabin lights only operate on DC current. When you are plugged into shore power a vessel normally has a battery charger that keeps your batteries charged so you then turn on your main cabin light breakers so you can utilize your normal (DC Bulb) cabin lights. Most likely, you've failed to flip the cabin light switch on your main breaker after you plugged into shore power.
journey on
New member
OK, in boats I've known, and Journey On is no exception, the cabin lights are 12 Vdc and thus only operate off the DC electrical circuit. This is powered by the battery. When one is connected to shore power, and the (DC) battery charger is operating, it supplies power to the battery. The battery is still the source of DC power. Notice that when the charger is plugged in, the lights are brighter, because the charger has raised the battery voltage in order to charge it. It doesn't matter how the battery charger is connected to shore power, as long as it's output is wired to the battery.
Additionally, 12 V bulbs are designed to operate with ~12 V, AC or DC, it doesn't matter. 120 V bulbs are designed to operate with 120 V. Don't interchange them. If you put 120 V to a 12 V bulb the filament will blow, and if you do the opposite, you'll get no light.
If the lights don't get brighter, the charger isn't wired to the battery. I'm not sure what the main cabin light breakers are, but with or without the charger on, the cabin lights operate on the DC electrical circuit, connected to the battery. The switches don't change.
Note that when the engine is running, the alternator also charges the batteries. Also, it's normal to wire the battery charger directly into the AC electrical circuit, with it's own breaker. Safer, easier.
Sorry for the lecture.
Boris
Additionally, 12 V bulbs are designed to operate with ~12 V, AC or DC, it doesn't matter. 120 V bulbs are designed to operate with 120 V. Don't interchange them. If you put 120 V to a 12 V bulb the filament will blow, and if you do the opposite, you'll get no light.
If the lights don't get brighter, the charger isn't wired to the battery. I'm not sure what the main cabin light breakers are, but with or without the charger on, the cabin lights operate on the DC electrical circuit, connected to the battery. The switches don't change.
Note that when the engine is running, the alternator also charges the batteries. Also, it's normal to wire the battery charger directly into the AC electrical circuit, with it's own breaker. Safer, easier.
Sorry for the lecture.
Boris
Taran,
I'm dragging my boat home to Spanaway from Everett this Saturday, so I'll be driving by Des Moines. I could stop somewhere off the freeway if you'd like to jump in and take a look at how I've got my shore power connected to my battery charger which allows me to run all my DC stuff, like cabin lights, radio, etc.
Email or PM me if you'd like to coordinate something.
I'm dragging my boat home to Spanaway from Everett this Saturday, so I'll be driving by Des Moines. I could stop somewhere off the freeway if you'd like to jump in and take a look at how I've got my shore power connected to my battery charger which allows me to run all my DC stuff, like cabin lights, radio, etc.
Email or PM me if you'd like to coordinate something.
Not just boats, RVs operate on the same 12v lights off the battery. That's so you can still have lights, even if you aren't plugged into shore power. As you now been told several times, your shore power runs the charger, which charges the batteries, which run the lights. If you are getting no lights, it is likely because you have the battery disconnect switched off, or your boat may have a main power for all your 12v accessories.
On our CD-25, we have to flip a switch by the helm to get power to the lights, then each of the cabin lights has its own switch (on the light). If your boat has electrical outlets, those should be live when plugged into shore power. While a separate battery charger that you have to hook up each time will certainly work to keep the batteries topped off when you have shore power, an onboard charger is more convenient.
Some boats and RVs do have 120 AC lights, generally as part of another appliance... we're in our RV right now: our ceiling fan has lights that are 120 AC, so they don't run off the battery. Same with the light under the microwave. Assuming you don't have a chandelier on your C-Dory, all your cabin lights are running off the batteries.
Neat place here, huh? Ask, and you get answers.
Best wishes,
Jim B.
On our CD-25, we have to flip a switch by the helm to get power to the lights, then each of the cabin lights has its own switch (on the light). If your boat has electrical outlets, those should be live when plugged into shore power. While a separate battery charger that you have to hook up each time will certainly work to keep the batteries topped off when you have shore power, an onboard charger is more convenient.
Some boats and RVs do have 120 AC lights, generally as part of another appliance... we're in our RV right now: our ceiling fan has lights that are 120 AC, so they don't run off the battery. Same with the light under the microwave. Assuming you don't have a chandelier on your C-Dory, all your cabin lights are running off the batteries.
Neat place here, huh? Ask, and you get answers.
Best wishes,
Jim B.
If you are using the boat much with lights at night and in marinas, or boat camping, where you are pluged into 110 volts AC, it would pay in the long run to put in a hard wired battery charger. Although the extension cord will work, there can be some safety issues, plus you have the hassel of running a cord to the battery charger.
Generally a 10 amp charger is good for the C Dory. I would suggest that you go with two batteries, if you only have one. That way, you can use one for the "house"= lights--and still have plenty of power to start the engine the next day.
Many RV's do it a bit different--that is they use a "converter" which changes 110 volts AC to 12 volts Dc (actuall 13.7 volts DC)--and then also have a trickle charger. A good marine battery charger is a better solution. Our current RV has no converter, but a 100 amp battery charger.
The C Brats will help you spend your money to put in a good hard wired battery charger system, and also suggest how the best way to wire in a second 12 volt battery if you don't already have one.
Generally a 10 amp charger is good for the C Dory. I would suggest that you go with two batteries, if you only have one. That way, you can use one for the "house"= lights--and still have plenty of power to start the engine the next day.
Many RV's do it a bit different--that is they use a "converter" which changes 110 volts AC to 12 volts Dc (actuall 13.7 volts DC)--and then also have a trickle charger. A good marine battery charger is a better solution. Our current RV has no converter, but a 100 amp battery charger.
The C Brats will help you spend your money to put in a good hard wired battery charger system, and also suggest how the best way to wire in a second 12 volt battery if you don't already have one.