C-Ranger Wiring

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kimshack

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Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the C-Ranger 21? I would like to know how the Batteries, Isolater, Power Switch and Guest Charger are all connected to each other.

It appears that the motor is directly connected to Battery #1, and so even when the main switch is off the motor will start. John stated this is done so it will not blow out the diodes in the alternator if someone turns the battery selector switch.

So, if for some reason if Battery 1 is dead, then I'm assuming that I will not be able to start the engine from battery two by simply selecting the battery switch to Two, but would need to "jumper" it in the engine box.
 
Kimshack,
Just got a PDF of the wiring diagram on the Ranger 21'. talked at length with Andrew Custis, tech guy at the factory and now understand how the system works. Contact me if this is still an issue for you and I will send the PDF file.
 
Kimshack, If #1 is dead turn the switch to both to start the engine. #1 is wired to the engine. #2 is wired to all accessories through the switch and both are wired to both on the switch. Both are charged by the alternator and #2 is charged by the guest charger. This is my understanding from Andrew after lightening got my Guest charger.
I would love to get a copy of the PDF to verify that I am right.
Ron
 
Tugly, Thanks for the PDF posting. I must look at what I have done because I believe this shows the charger hooked to the engine battery and I thought Andrew told me the house battery. Thanks again. Ron
 
Looking at the diagram, the charger is connected connected to the Engine battery, and the Alternator is connected to the buss bar, which is connected to House (#2) battery. The charging relay is "A" to the alternator, and would preferentially charge the house battery, and then the engine start battery. This is backward from the way most boats are set up. (unless I am reading something wrong).

You want to have the charger on the house battery, so that when you are plugged in, the house battery will charge. The engine battery should preferentially charge from the alternator, and then the house battery after the voltage on the engine start comes up.

I would buy a two bank charger, and make sure that the engine start is preferentially charged.
 
If you have your charging relay on both, both batteries will charge. I don't see the battery isolator on this diagram and don't know how that might change the charging pattern. On my boat, the isolator is in the position of the battery buss.
 
I am reading the diagram as you are but thought Andrew told me to hook the charger to the house battery. We discussed the two bank charger and he felt it was probably an overkill if in fact the eng. battery was only used to start. The alternator should bring it back up quickly and you were not taking it down bad with the start only. The house would be different and could be a deeper draw. He suggested to only use both if in an emergency condition of a dead eng. battery. Ron
 
Tugley, generally the charging relay reacts to the higher voltage of a designated battery to close the relay and charge both batteries. The way that this diagram appears is that only the alternator accomplishes this. If you have a switch to close the charging relay--then you could combine the batteries whenever you want--but you will want a 1/2 / all/ off switch to combine the batteries. I don't see the switch on the diagram. Some of the charging relays allow for a "combine" switch--but these relays are only reated at 60 to 100 amps, not starting loads.

It is possiable that this specific relay is designed to close if either battery exceeds the theshold voltage; if this is the case, then the charger on one battery would charge the other. But this is not the usual setup.

Most owners spend more time at the dock--run various lights, sterio etc from the house battery--and like to keep this battery charged from the dock powered charger.
 
Thataway,
I think that I have my terms mixed up. On the diagram I was assuming that the box marked CHARGING RELAY was the battery switch that allowed one to do the 1/2/both/off stuff. I guess I don't know what a charging relay is. On my boat, if I have the battery switch on "Both", have the shore power attached, and check the voltage of the batteries, both are under charge. That is the position I use when I am using shore power, then both my starting and house battery are always up. When running, I still leave it on both to keep the batteries up, when I stop with no shore power, I switch to the house battery, I assume that is #2. The more I think about this, the more unsure I become.
 
Tugly,

That is the correct way to use the battery switch--and obviously your boat has the switch--which is not shown in the diagram. You probably do not have the charging relay.

Basically the relay separates the two batteries, untill the primary battery (hooked up to the alternator) reaches 13.6 volts (it can be varied in some, fixed in others). It usually stays closed as long as the charging voltage is above 12.7--at which point it opens, and isolates the batteries.
Some have a manual override--via switch in the console. Some have a high voltage cut off relay to protect some batteries like a gel cell (but I would not like to depend on this, because then the battery may be undercharged).

Hope that helps--the way you are rigged sounds fine. If you have the relay, you would not have to turn the switch.
 
Bob is completely right about the typical way of wiring. Our electrician made a mistake on this diagram. I have went over the corrections. Let me try and clear some things up on this wiring.

The battery charger we are putting on now is a one bank charger hooked directly to your house bank. We recently added in the positive bus bar due to too many connections on the batteries. We are in the process of switching chargers to a dual bank "smart charger" that automatically sense's 90-240 volts.

The battery switch we use is an off/on switch only which does not have a parallel option. The older 21 tugs did have a 1/2/both switch in them which was fine. It is shown in the diagram but not labeled.

The function of the charging relay is exactly what Bob Austin explained. That took the place of your battery isolator.

I hope this cleared alot of this up. Please feel free to email or call with any other questions.
 
Hi Kimshak,

In case you haven't been reading, there's been some postings about engine size recently. If my memory serves me, you have a 40hp Volvo in your 21ec. Several interested posters wondered about increased h.p. installed in our little tugs. We purchased one with the little Yanmar 30 h.p. and it seems to putt us along just fine burning about 2 pints per hour. If you have a chance, please post your experiences with your 21 Ranger Tug on steroids.

Thanks,
Denny
 
Hey kimshack, can't wait any longer do you have the 40 in your boat ? any real difference from the yan. 30. BOB, that thread cracks me up dude. when can i order my Austin 21-ec custom :D . you never cease to amaize me . Ranger should pay you a ridiciouls amount of money to oversee the operation & in the end they would probably make back every nickel and then some , espiecally with no more war. work comming back :shock: were lucky to have you .......john
 
Continuing saga of the Ranger 21 charging system:

I just collected the following data on Tugly. If you are wired the same as I am this should help a bit. All readings are in volts.

Data:
Switch on #2 - Before charger plug in:
House - 7.32
Engine - 12.59

Switch on #2 - Plugged into charger:
House - 13.00
Engine- 12.59

Switch on Both plugged in:
House - 12.79
Engine - 12.77

Switch on #1 plugged in:
House - 13.20
Engine - 12.77

Two days pass, plugged in with switch on #2 - un-plugged and rest for 1 hour
House - 12.90
Engine - 12.90

With engine running, not plugged in:

Switch on #2:
House - 14.00
Engine - 14.00

Switch on #1:
House - 14.00
Engine - 14.00

Switch on Both:
House - 14.00
Engine - 14.00

Engine starts perfectly with switch on #2

Conclusions:
- leave the switch on #2 for general use as both batteries will charge with engine running and only the House battery will be drawn upon for accessories.
- leave on OFF when trailering or in storage.
- use Both when plugged in to charge both batteries

Does this make sense??
 
Yes it does make sense and that is the "Old Way" we used to wire in the boats. We do not use a parallel switch any more just an on/off switch for the house battery. Everything on your tests look good except for that battery showing 7 volts before the charger was plugged in?
 
Andrew,

That low reading concerned me too, I must have left something on. I will leave it unplugged for a couple of days and then check the house battery again.

We are going to the Sacramento Delta for a few days next week and I want it up to snuff. I will also check to see if the House battery will sustain the refrigerator over night.
 
That is pretty close to what I have with my boat, Once in a while I get
the house battery on the low side after using the ham equipment but
I have to try real hard to get it below 10.5. I put the switch on off when
not on the boat or when not needing power for something. I use a lot
of AA batteries for small jobs. I was concerned last year when zincs
disappeared rather rapidly and think it may have been some feedback
to my ham equipment so did some changes. I did not not notice it in
fresh water just salt water. Bob Heselberg Eatonville Wa
 
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