C-Dory with extended roof

Wow! I love this site. This is exactly what I have in mind for my boat as well. I am so glad others have done this and seem pleased with the results. I would love to here how the Thule rack idea for kayaks worked.

Great work.

Grazer
 
Can't seem to find the pictures of the Thule rack up there but will post them when I find them. Had a Native Ultimate 14.5 tandem open kayak on the Thule rack, about 75 lbs. The top handled the weight no problem, but the spread of the Thule bars caused them to sag a bit. Never tried the Thule box but probably will this summer and will let you know how it works. Will have to keep it light - not for the aluminum/canvas top, but for the Thule bars themselves.
 
Capt Harpoon":6spmf8pr said:
Well, I joined the ranks of Roger (flrockytop on C-Lover) and Robert (BRAZO) and ordered a canvas frame from Blue Coral. I made a few additions to theirs and am very pleased with the results. Installing it was a bit tricky, but in the end it turned out great!
Like Roger, I can hang from the "monkey bars" (as my wife calls them) no problem (and I weigh more than he does). We added the side rails to the frame for the Thule rack so we can carry bicycles, kayaks, or a roof storage box as needed. We haven't tried that yet, but will in the next week or two. I also had tabs installed for deck lights, speakers, flag staff, and anchor light.
Thank you to Roger (C-Lover) and Robert (BRAZO) for all their help with this project, and to Rowland Stanton at Blue Coral for great service.
The cost of the frame with side rails, rocket launchers and canvas; packed, crated, and delivered to my door by motor freight, was about $2350 (freight from FL to northern NY was less than $150).
I think we will find it far more useful than a conventional bimini top.


Sea_Hag_2.sized.jpg
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Looks great and I have tagged for reference. Do you know how much extra it would have been to have the full camper sides and eisenglass done? This would be my preference for the NW weather and year around boating.
 
I do not know the cost of a full enclosure and eisenglass windows. We wanted to do that too, and started this adventure with a standard bimini top and a full enclosure. We were surprised at the variation in cost estimates we received, but found someone we liked and who had some interesting ideas. At the time, I researched Brats' albums extensively. My favorite camper canvas ideas came from Foggy Dew, Valkyrie, and Berta's Boy. I liked the forward facing windows on Berta's Boy, the clear window panel between the cabin and the free standing bimini, and the split rear panel with zippered roll up door for swim step access. I liked the access to downriggers on Foggy Dew, too.
In the end, we dropped the traditional bimini and went this route for a completely open cockpit with no bimini hoops in the way. Once we went with the aluminum frame, I was back to looking at BRAZO for a full enclosure. BRAZOs is home made and I decided I would consider trying it ourselves, but never did. I may very well revisit the idea, but we haven't had the time to use Sea Hag as much as we hoped (maybe this year).
During our research, I PMd a lot of Brats with tons of questions, and they were extremely helpful and patient (thank you!). Spend these nasty March nights with rain and snow looking through albums while waiting for the boat ramps to thaw out! Won't be too long now - places we rode our four wheeler last week are almost open water now. Thinking spring ....
 
I really like the elegance of the cantilever, however the sheer number of welds makes this an expensive project.
Granted the lack of rear supports is desirable I would need a top capable of handling large snow loads.
 
Discovery":3j6w1p3x said:
Dr. Bob,

I agree that a large tidal flux and fixed docks could be a problem.
IM000210.sized.jpg
This is the dock at Panama City Marina, Florida. The CD 22 is Kurbit.
At times the tide was even lower than this pic shows. We would have to climb on the cabin roof and step over to the dock. I don't think the fixed cockpit canopy would be any harder than negotiating around a bimini top. The hardtop would be easier to hold on to than the flimsy bimini. You could egress from the other side of the boat, go forward and onto the dock from the bow.

Brent
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Good plan to save the coffee!
 
rogerbum":bnidwh6r said:
Here's a picture of the Ocean Sport 34 fiberglass roof extension. This is the kind of thing I'd want for a TomCat. Screen_shot_2011_02_21_at_3_54_05_PM.sized.png

The aft support rail serves as a "rain gutter".
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Thats really nice too. Would be nice to be out on the cockpit and still protected from the rain.
 
I absolutely love these cantilevered bimini designs. especially for fishing and UV protection!

If I were the C-Dory manufacturer, I'd offer it as a factory option along with a couple of canvas enclosure alternatives, although I know it can be done as an aftermarket add-on where (and if) you can find a fabrication shop for the metal work close by! :lol:

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
My plan is to build something similar using aluminum channel and flatstock. Match paint the aluminum then cover the top with smoked polycarbonate, I really don't care about side curtains.
 
My plan is to build something similar using aluminum channel and flatstock. Match paint the aluminum then cover the top with smoked polycarbonate, I really don't care about side curtains.
 
BRAZO":1eebq3qt said:
Thanks for the information Robert. Was the canvas top sourced through Blue Coral and sent as a package (frame + canvas top)? If not, who made the canvas top for you?
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Hi David,

Yes, the frame and canvas top was sourced through Blue Coral. They had someone come in and make the canvas top. Blue Coral made the frame just a bit different than Roger's because they did not have the boat.
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Hi,

I am looking to ask Blue Coral to make me a frame and canvas similar to Roger's and Brazo's for my 96 Angler. I know that since the Angler has a longer cockpit, it will not cover all of it, but I am ok with that.
Questions:
1) How long is it?
2) Does anybody sees a problem using the same anchoring for the frame in a 96 Angler?

Thanks,

Franco
 
I suspect that Blue Coral would make the cantalevered top longer if you wanted. Any good pipe welder can make this type of frame. If I was making one, I would do a mock up with PVC and then have a local welder do the work in AL, so it fits the boat.
 
Can anybody who has done this cantilevered top comment as to how it performs for fishing. I am specifically meaning Salmon, Halibut, Ling Cod, or other larger fish where the rod utilized might be taller, require pulling the rod toward you when fighting it and at the end when pulled backward as the netting person steps between to land the fish.

The main thing im curious about is whether the rod will hit the top of the awning frame and make it more difficult to fight a fish.
 
I am interested in having one of these cantilevered canvas frames built for my boat and have similar questions about fishability as was asked by the last post from Redbaronace.

redbaronace":qcr5fja3 said:
Can anybody who has done this cantilevered top comment as to how it performs for fishing. I am specifically meaning Salmon, Halibut, Ling Cod, or other larger fish where the rod utilized might be taller, require pulling the rod toward you when fighting it and at the end when pulled backward as the netting person steps between to land the fish.

The main thing im curious about is whether the rod will hit the top of the awning frame and make it more difficult to fight a fish.
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Can someone with these frames please comment from a fishing prospective?
Thanks,
Grazer
 
Ive never salmon fished from a c-dory with a cantilever back, so I'm not qualified to answer but I will anyways :monty

We've fished alot for tuna from various boats with cantilever and also bimini hoop style canvas. For tuna and the gear we were using then, no top was the best, but the cantilever design was the second choice....


Having the rear hoops is the biggest PITA when fighting a fish, so the cantilever design is an improvement. You don't have that ackward moment when you need to move toward the transom and pass the rod around the hoop, so thats good. The upside of the hoops is that you can lay it forward or remove it completely.

Our rods we used for tuna were alot shorter and stiffer then our downrigger rods we use for salmon so clearence was not as big of an issue. 6' instead of 9'. Also for tuna we arent trying to keep the rod tip way up and tension on the rod like you would want to with a barbless hook salmon gear. You didnt have to worry about the downriggers either. When I get a shaker on, or eelgrass fowls my fishing hardware without releasing the clip.... I've gotta reel down and really reef on my 9' rod to get that line to release so i can get back to fishing. I would guess that would be a challenge with a roof design like that, and there might not be the clearance. Also where do i put the big net where I can grab it easy when the big one hits?

None of that is really an issue if all you have on is a 4 lb humpy barely putting up a fight, but what if you hook up to 40 lb king and are in for a battle? A single little thing is all it takes to loose that fish, and then my family and friends are stuck listening to another "one that got away story" lol
 
PaulNBriannaLynn":37fyzjlr said:
Ive never salmon fished from a c-dory with a cantilever back, so I'm not qualified to answer but I will anyways :monty

We've fished alot for tuna from various boats with cantilever and also bimini hoop style canvas. For tuna and the gear we were using then, no top was the best, but the cantilever design was the second choice....


Having the rear hoops is the biggest PITA when fighting a fish, so the cantilever design is an improvement. You don't have that ackward moment when you need to move toward the transom and pass the rod around the hoop, so thats good. The upside of the hoops is that you can lay it forward or remove it completely.

Our rods we used for tuna were alot shorter and stiffer then our downrigger rods we use for salmon so clearence was not as big of an issue. 6' instead of 9'. Also for tuna we arent trying to keep the rod tip way up and tension on the rod like you would want to with a barbless hook salmon gear. You didnt have to worry about the downriggers either. When I get a shaker on, or eelgrass fowls my fishing hardware without releasing the clip.... I've gotta reel down and really reef on my 9' rod to get that line to release so i can get back to fishing. I would guess that would be a challenge with a roof design like that, and there might not be the clearance. Also where do i put the big net where I can grab it easy when the big one hits?

None of that is really an issue if all you have on is a 4 lb humpy barely putting up a fight, but what if you hook up to 40 lb king and are in for a battle? A single little thing is all it takes to loose that fish, and then my family and friends are stuck listening to another "one that got away story" lol
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Yeah, your explanation pretty much was the conclusion that I reached. I contacted the members on the forum who have this beautiful cantilevered design on their boats. All of them pretty much said that they are not fishing people so it did not come into play.

Since we want to be able to fish and cruise, we will need to stick with the traditional bimini configuration. bummer.
 
Yup, I hear what your saying. It looks like it would still work for fishing though albeit somewhat challenging to handle a net on a salmon or harpoon a big hali. I think perhaps a shorter version. say around 4 feet, would give both sun/rain protection and an open area aft to fight and land fish. This configuration would also allow for the addition of a camper back while being slightly angled to the stern of the boat.

Grazer
 
I have often thought that it would not be that hard to make a release-pin, hinged version of the cantilever top that rotated and flipped up and over onto the roof (provided there was no arch)?

Tie it down to the handrails for safety.

Seems like a straightforward modification to a great design......
 
Ray":1vxveiw6 said:
I have often thought that it would not be that hard to make a release-pin, hinged version of the cantilever top that rotated and flipped up and over onto the roof (provided there was no arch)?

Tie it down to the handrails for safety.

Seems like a straightforward modification to a great design......
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I thought about that too, but we have rocket launchers on the boat in addition to a radar on a mount.

To fabricate this starts to add complexity to the project and probably could never be within our budget unless I was able to provide the labor myself. Unfortunately, that is beyond my scope and abilities.
 
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