Again, let me make it clear that I purchased "Frequent Sea" knowing that there might be transom problems. In the thread on the core, I posted further pictures of the transom at the lowest part. There was water intrusion into the core for about 1" around the screws from the transducer which was not properly sealed. What was a bit suprising as we got into more cuts today was that there was a void between the balsa core and the aft skin stern laminate--this should have been filled with some matt and filler at the least. Any water which might get down into the farest aft core, can migrate from side to side. For example if there was a defect near the drain plug for some reason allowed water into the core layer, water would get into the lower laminate and balsa core and migrate. We had this dry, and then washed the boat--it became wet again. We hope that this water came from the washing. We tilted the boat until the transom was way low, and no water migrated to this area, so we assume there is no breach in the inner hull. (however even at this attitude water was draining out from around the fuel tank (plastic)--and I would be concerned if I had an aluminum tank if water could sit around it).
Now to the top of the transom. We removed the black cap, and found a long crack on the starboard side it was about 16" long. Not unexpected because the surveyor had mentioned this. The good news is that no where we checked did we find any water in the plywood core, or breakdown of the plywood transom core. The bad news is that we found that there was a void between the top of the wood in the transom and where the fiberglass rapped over it--the plywood looked as if it had been coated with polyester. It also looked as if there was a layer of mat and polyester between the two sheets of plywood--this is common. There were three disturbing things we found:
one was that the plywood did not come all of the way up to the top of the transom--it missed it by about 5/8". The area between the top of the plywood and the layer of glass was absolutely empty of any material.
The next item was that the plywood stopped inside of the edge of the splashwell. Most boats the wooden core goes all of the way from side to side and thus directs the motor load to the sides of the hull. In this case the motor load was thus directed only to the sides of the splash well. This might have been OK, except there was virtually no glass where the spashwell and cap over the transom meet--basically were the cracks in the corners. These are more than gelcoat cracks--and there is just thick polyester in this area, with virtually no glass. The foreward face of the transom looked nice and thick--I thought "they did it right"--well wrong--there were some small cracks in the top top of this, and it turns out that instead of being 1/2" of solid glass, like I thought, that this foreward part of the transom is has about 1/8" of glass on its faces and about 1/2" of low density filler with polyester in the middle.
The final item was that the plywood was not marine grade. There were several large voids. Fortunately there is no water intrusion or breakdown, so the transom can be rebuilt to be waterproof and stronger.
We are filling the accessable top of the transom with layers of biaxial cloth and core material. We are spreading the load of the transom out on the inside (and some on the outside) with layers of roving and biaxial cloth. This is not ideal, but it is what we have to work with. After we finish this the boat will be much stronger than when built.
What I found may only be what is present in Hull # 30. I have no way of knowing if other transoms are built this same way. If there are cracks on the inside of the splash pan and the transom, I would be suspicious. If the thickness of the transom (looking from the inside you will see roving on the inner surface, and it is much thicker where there is a wooden core. In our boat, the thicker area, stops at the area where the splash pan joins the the transom.
I have posted photos of the cuts and what we have found in the "Thataway" album.
Now to the top of the transom. We removed the black cap, and found a long crack on the starboard side it was about 16" long. Not unexpected because the surveyor had mentioned this. The good news is that no where we checked did we find any water in the plywood core, or breakdown of the plywood transom core. The bad news is that we found that there was a void between the top of the wood in the transom and where the fiberglass rapped over it--the plywood looked as if it had been coated with polyester. It also looked as if there was a layer of mat and polyester between the two sheets of plywood--this is common. There were three disturbing things we found:
one was that the plywood did not come all of the way up to the top of the transom--it missed it by about 5/8". The area between the top of the plywood and the layer of glass was absolutely empty of any material.
The next item was that the plywood stopped inside of the edge of the splashwell. Most boats the wooden core goes all of the way from side to side and thus directs the motor load to the sides of the hull. In this case the motor load was thus directed only to the sides of the splash well. This might have been OK, except there was virtually no glass where the spashwell and cap over the transom meet--basically were the cracks in the corners. These are more than gelcoat cracks--and there is just thick polyester in this area, with virtually no glass. The foreward face of the transom looked nice and thick--I thought "they did it right"--well wrong--there were some small cracks in the top top of this, and it turns out that instead of being 1/2" of solid glass, like I thought, that this foreward part of the transom is has about 1/8" of glass on its faces and about 1/2" of low density filler with polyester in the middle.
The final item was that the plywood was not marine grade. There were several large voids. Fortunately there is no water intrusion or breakdown, so the transom can be rebuilt to be waterproof and stronger.
We are filling the accessable top of the transom with layers of biaxial cloth and core material. We are spreading the load of the transom out on the inside (and some on the outside) with layers of roving and biaxial cloth. This is not ideal, but it is what we have to work with. After we finish this the boat will be much stronger than when built.
What I found may only be what is present in Hull # 30. I have no way of knowing if other transoms are built this same way. If there are cracks on the inside of the splash pan and the transom, I would be suspicious. If the thickness of the transom (looking from the inside you will see roving on the inner surface, and it is much thicker where there is a wooden core. In our boat, the thicker area, stops at the area where the splash pan joins the the transom.
I have posted photos of the cuts and what we have found in the "Thataway" album.