Bulging Fuel Tanks

Levity,
I just finished installing my tanks today. I used the bolt epoxied in the floor method. I also considered trying to bond the starboard to the floor but decided to use a more simple method. I think if I had it to do over, I would simply epoxy a wood strip to the floor and paint it white. The more I live with starboard the less I like it. My previous boat (Arima) had the whole cabin built of starboard. Screws were always pulling out, the material is soft and fairly porous, and stains easily. Because of the light surface texture, fish blood and stains are very hard to clean off once they dry. Just my 2 cents.
 
I'm sure i'm not the only one awaiting the arrival of a brand new 22 to wonder if I can expect my fuel tanks to be rattling around back there in a short time. With normal use, is it to be expected that one will have to correct this? When? Would appreciate input from Jeff at the factory and Les...and anyone else.

tom
 
Don,
Thanks, the flame treatment does sounds like it will require practice to get right. Larry Doring from Adhesive Methods explained the process in detail which will help in attempting to get it right. There will be practice trials on some spare StarBoard before the application of the adhesive to the cockpit floor. Starboard isn't easy to clean but it is rot proof.
Where possible the starboard will have bolts and nuts for fasteners to avoid the tendency for screws to be pulled out. Thanks again for the tips.
Mike 'Levity'
 
A month ago I undertook the repair for my bulging twenty gallon fuel tanks. I had planned to use the epoxy an upside down bolt technique. However, upon reading how the factory is doing the new tanks I decided to do a more temporary job for now, anticipating a “factory type” job in a couple of years. I pulled the fourteen screws into the deck. Several had water damage and were not holding at all. All holes were rooted out, enlarged and filled with epoxy. I took the hold down cleats and made several channel in each so water could flow under the cleat. The cleats were then reinstalled with polyurethane caulk after seriously scoring the smooth undersides of the cleat. The starboard panel were then moved to the front of the cleats and secured with six screws each. The hold down straps moved upwards, some pieces of starboard of various shapes and thicknesses were glued to the back of the panels as gap fillers. The starboard panel is beginning to lose its bent shape. Should last awhile. As I was doing this I couldn’t believe the original system. Lousy caulking job, pieces not fitting properly, etc. Not surprised water found its way in. It was a bad system – but poorly implemented. <g> It is great that the factory is going with a new system. It is also great that Jeff M said if I brought my 2004 boat to the factory he would fix it (just not likely to make the 2,500 mile trip). In another thread I have a request for help with a new found problem, leaky fuel tank (20 gallon).
 
I took the Susan E in for some minor problems on monday and while I am showing the guy (forgot his name) what I need fixed he notices the tanks are the old system. So he says that he will redo them while he has the boat just because they can. How often has a manufacturer of any product ever told you some thing like that. I am use to having to argue just to get the warranty work done, not have them tell me "oh by the way we changed that after you left the factory so we will do the new upgrade for FREE. They are also coming up with a new way to mount the table. This has been one of the biggest headacks for us. the dam thing will not stay put. The new system will employ threaded knobs that will secure the mounts in place. much like the four bolts on a scotty down rigger. should be nice.
 
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