Building a Better Boat Shelter

M

Mike...

New member
Hello Everyone.

When I purchased our TomCat, I had planned to keep it at the marina. However this bad economy scuttled that plan. But I needed to do something to cover the boat, so I rigged a sort of lean-to out of tarp to provide shelter. That turned out to be less than ideal.

I figured with winter coming, I better come up with a better solution. So, I contacted one of those metal building manufacturers to inquire about a carport like structure - with open ends, closed metal sides, and long/tall enough for the TomCat. They gave me a quote of several thousand dollars, installed.

Well, this economy is still working against me, so I am looking for cost effective alternatives, but yet something sturdy that will last at least until the economy picks up again (which could be a long while, unfortunately).

For starters, let me point out I have lots of space, and no covenants or restrictions to deal with. My plan is to erect the shelter across a section of our road which accommodates both coming and going without ever backing up the boat.

We get hardly any snow here, so that is not a factor. But we do get a lot of rain (thunderstorms), and 10-15MPH winds are not uncommon. During Isabel, well got gusts in the 50-60MPH range, but that is extremely rare. Besides, if another Isabel were coming, we would take the boat inland.

In searching for alternatives that I could do myself (or with help), I started looking for ways to build a frame out of steel pipe. This would essentially be a big long box that that I would stretch canvas on (top and sides) to protect the boat.

Anyone ever seen or done something like this?

I stumbled across a company that sells about every pipe fitting you could imagine to pull this off, but they are in India. I prefer to buy American, especially in this troubled times.

Has anyone here seen fittings like these available from a US company?

Is my plan totally crazy?

Any suggestions?

---
mike
 
:lol: What can I say. The wife has quite the sense of humor. :)

Thanks for the link. I wonder if there is enough vertical clearance, though. I'll call and find out.

If not, there is also this one which would definitely tall enough.

Thanks for the link.
---
mike
 
Mike – I made a temporary shelter for some lumber about 20+ years ago out of PVC pipe and metal T fence post. I drove the post into the ground, slipped the PVC pipe over the post and arched it over to the other post. It lasted as long as I needed it (5+ yrs), but I did have to replace the tarp after three years. For the size you need, you will need two 20 foot sections of PVC pipe for each arch. I can give you specific directions but found this web site that has similar structures. You should be able to get some ideas here. If you go with an arch use schedule 40 pipe. 80 will be too heavy. When I built mine, I used bailing wire to tie the arches together and a guy wire on each end to keep it from falling back into its self. It should cost less than $150 plus the tarp.

If you want me to I can draw the plans of how I did it.
_______
Dave dlt.gif
 
Mike-


This is a project along the lines of ?Oldgrowth Dave's, but alsdo makes use of your existing trailer as a base:

I made a portable covered frame for my trailer a few years ago.

Ran 2 1/2" PVC Schedule 40 tube down each side of the trailer from front to rear.

Drilled 1/2 inch vertical holes in the tube from front to rear about every 14 inches.

Took 20 1/2" PVC Schedule 40 tubes and inserted 1/2" dowels about 8" long in one end of each of them.

Put the dowels in the hole in the large pipe on one side of the trailer, then bent the pipe into a bow high enough to clear the boat and keep a plastic cover off of it.

Cut the other end of each 1/2" pipe off to the necessary indicated length and inserted another dowel in that end which was then put into the appropriate hole on the opposite side of the trailer.

Repeat for the rest of the bows. Makes a "covered wagon" frame tapered to the shape of the boat that will hold a plastic cover over but not on the boat so as to not rip the cover on the sharp corners of the boat, and to also prevent pooling of water or snow.

Of course, you'll have to stretch a plastic cover over the trailer, boat, and ribs. Secure with bungee cords to tension.

Makes a great and cheap covered housing for storing the boat outdoors and out of the sun, rain, and snow. Not strong enough for on road use, however.

Be sure to number the matching holes and ribs for easy removal and replacement, since the ones up front will be shorter than the ones to the middle and rear in gradually tapered lengths.

The 2 1/2" larger PVC tube is secured to the trailer frame and guide-ons with large U-bolts.

I added a 8" tube down one side of the trailer with removable end plugs in which to store all of the 1/2" ribs during transit.

This works great to store your boat in at a remote location for a few months or so during the summer when you don't want to drag it back and forth to a lake you fish at frequently. I used it at Eagle Lake in California one summer.

I don't use it much any more with a covered marina slip and an RV barn in which to store the boat.

I'll have to get some pictures of the set-up if anyone indicates interest. Will involve bringing the trailer home from friend's where it's stored and assembling it.

Fun, simple, cheap, doable project!

Here you can see the PVC pipe bolted to the trailer used to support the covered wagon structure:
IM001899.jpg

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Discovery":dj4qq25r said:
Someone Emailed me this shelter after my last post

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=94182

Looks like it may fit your needs. Just anchor it really well to the ground.
Click to expand...

I too have been researching this for Napoleon. I just hate to plunk down $330 a year for shrinkwrap. I researched all the RV type ports I could find, and every one of them said "not for snow". Interesting the link above indeed says 'OK for snow'. Problem is, Napoelon measures 13' even at the highest point. I wonder if the structure is such that I could elevate it a foot? Anchoring would be the key issue assuming there is no structure that lays on the ground from one side to the next.

I also thought about just building a simple frame out of wood then figuring out some kind of canvas to cover it....

SeaWolf and others - would love to see pictures of your cover creations for ideas.

--Matt
 
Joe, I would really like to know more about your setup because it will allow me to claim the cover is part of the trailer, and not a structure, thus getting me around the homeowners' association rules! Fortunately we don't get much snow where we are. Some wind, though, but usually not too bad.

Warren
 
Hi,
Why not buy a good boat cover. I'm buying one from from a company from Burlington New Jersey who have been around for years. I see lots of boats large and small around the Jersey shore area that have used these covers for years. If anyone is interested I will post the price and pictures in my album which for some reason I think they are in the 750- 800 dollar range. I'm going to take my boat over there to be measured up when I'm done fishing for the year. They are pretty tough as they have pockets for 2 x 4''s to offer a peak to keep snow and rain from forming pockets. They are supposed to last for about 7 years or so beating the usual 3 to 4 hundred a year shrink wrapping cost. Zoning locally wants 750 dollars just to apply for a variance for the garage I want to build and thats win or lose. They want the structure 30' off the property line. So for now this seems like a good solution for us. I for one don't like the looks of the temporary structures not to mention what honeypot's opinion might be and think the the winter canvas offers another solution/option to winter boat protection. Here's the info http://www.fishercanvas.com/
 
OK, before I start building a Conestoga cover like Joe's I should probably investigate a fitted cover. Has anyone had one made for the Tom Cat in the Seattle area? Who did it and what was the cost?

I have a nice cover that came with the 22, so that is covered, so to speak.

Warren
 
I'll tell ya - this is the great thing about c-brats.com. You ask a question - and you get lots of great suggestions!

I never would have thought about PVC. But I love the idea. Very affordable, and seems highly doable.

Dave, I thought about just going with a canvas cover, but was concerned about the boat sweating and sweltering under the cover. It seems to me that taking advantage of the breeze is a good thing, especially in light of the mold problem I had recently.

Maybe my perceptions are incorrect?
---
mike
 
I purchased a smaller version from Harbor Freight to cover one of my air cooled VWs. I was NOT impressed. It was very cheaply manufactured and I immediately took it back. I ended up getting one at Costco that was far more sturdy and well constructed. It lasted >3 yrs and worked perfectly. Wind is the only issue; it had moved ~4' once due to a fall storm even though I had it weighed down with six 90lb concrete blocks. The Costco ones are not larger enough for a boat however; they are 10'X20'.

Unless the larger HF ones are sturdier, I'd look for another option. JMO.
 
I don't know anything about this company I found on Craiglist a few weeks back, but I was planning on contacting them to price a steel shelter. I wasn't able to copy the pictures they had on Craigslist, but their shelters looked nice and so did the price. Might be worth a call?

*******************************
Cover Your Boat or Moorage - $ 895 (OR., WA.,
CA.)
Date: 2009- 09 - 15, 8:09AM PDT
Reply to: see below
You can cover and protect your boat from the weather for as little as $895.00 with our all steel shelters.
We will deliver and install to your location. Wide choice of colors and styles, call me for information:
terry
503 - 289- 6741
e-mail: tdscott58@msn.com
Oregon Outbuildings
 Location: OR., WA., CA.

**********************************
 
Here are a few other options.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... boat_tents

SHK-12208Q.jpg


Kev
 
I had the Costco structure for a few years when I kept the boat at Lake Amador for a few years before developing the "Calistoga Clipper Cover". :lol:

The ones that are open on the ends tend to catch the wind and turn into a giant Regallo Wing, developing incredible aerodynamic lift in the process!

My Costco model was incredibly strong, made out of about 2-1/4" steel tube, many, many cross braces, lots of elastic bungees, and a tough plasticized canvas cover. Costco said in the instructions not to use it in more than 20 mph wind strengths (!).

I tied it down with big metal stakes, anchored it with guy lines to big trees and my motor home, and felt very secure.

It held up through some very bad storms, but when the annemometer hit 60 mph in the gusts, it exploded like it was hit by a tornado, and turned into a bunch of twisted steel tubes, ripped canvas, and tangled lines. I wasn't there when it happened by was told about it by a next door resident in the mobile home park at the resort. About all aI could salvage was the lines.

The wind can destroy just about any of these structures, but they need to be built as strong as possible, really anchored well, and the air kept from getting underneath them. Having the boat or vehicle pretty much fill up the inside cavity also seems to be useful to partially deaden the air's activity. I'm sure a relief pressure flap or two could also be utilized to minimize pressure differentials.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
oldgrowth":2brkl24p said:
Mike – I made a temporary shelter for some lumber about 20+ years ago out of PVC pipe and metal T fence post. I drove the post into the ground, slipped the PVC pipe over the post and arched it over to the other post.
Click to expand...

Dave, what is a T fence post? And how much of the posts stuck out of the ground when you slipped the pvc pipe over them. Lastly, what was the diameter of the PVC pipe?
---
mike
 
Mike – it was around 25 years ago and I don’t remember the size I used.

Any farm store will know what a Tee fence post is. Here is a link with a picture of one. They come in various lengths and weight (the thickness of the steel); heavy, regular and light. Don’t use the light. The size of pipe you use will depend on the post you use.

I used the heavy post because I wanted the larger PVC pipe. I think a 1 & ½ inch pipe will just fit over the heavy T post. You want the pipe to be as snug as possible and still be able to slide it over the post. Get a post and take it in with you and try the different size pipes. Get the size that fits. If it is hard to slip on get the next size larger. Remember you will have it arched over when it goes on the second post so it cannot be too tight of a fit.

On the post, you want at least two feet out of the ground and not more than three and a half feet or it will be too hard to slip the pipe on it. So the 4 or 5 foot post would be the best. To drive the post into the ground, get a post driver. The farm store/hardware store will have one. If you use a sledge hammer, you will mushroom the top and have to grind it off to get the pipe on.

When I finished my structure, it looked similar to the photo in Montana Kev’s post except I used baling wire to tie the arches together instead of PVC pipe.

If I can be of any more assistant please feel free to ask.
_______
Dave dlt.gif
 
wantaboat,
I like the breeze idea. It might work if you keep your windows and hatches open. Not an option for me. The idea for me is to remove all my cushions,charts, life jackets etc.that can be damaged by mildew. Open all inside compartment hatches and use mildew prevention measures offered by marine stores. I leave my shore power plugged in and my battery charger on as this allows me to leave the batteries in the boat. If you have power at the boat this allows for a fan or two that they sell for this purpose that keeps air moving inside the boat which helps prevent mildew. I try once a month to get in the boat and run a small electric heater for a bit to try and keep things as dry as possible. Most boat covers and shrink wrappers allow for venting as this does help to prevent mildew. I hope this helps. Good luck protecting your baby.
D.D.
 
Just a note about charging batteries in stored boats:

Small solar chargers of just a couple of watts are very useful,and won't overcharge the batteries, as their limited voltage output and amperage are not capable of doing so. Just tilt the charger up facing the sun's average position in the window inside the boat (or elsewhere if the boat is covered), and let it do its job.

Most come with cigarette lighter plugs, so you can just plug them into that outlet (be sure it's turned on), and the reverse power flow with charge the boat's batteries, which must be left in the "on" position.

If you have a more complex system with battery isolators, relays, etc. you may have to have two chargers, one for each battery, and connect them directly to each battery. (More for three batteries,, etc.)

I've got a 5 watt panel that can only face Eastward (morning sun), because of the covered berth, mounted on the side of my locker for my 3-battery set up in my Sea Ray, and it keeps the three Group 27's from going down to a low enough battery state to worry about battery state of charge and the consequent battery life expectancy.

When I kept my C-Dory in the RV Park at Lake Amador (near Stockton), I ran wires from the motorhome's 12v charger out to the boat to keep the batteries charged without using another internal boat housed charger. I used fairly fine wires of about 18 gauge, and fused the circuit on both ends with a 3 amp fuse, so that any large power exchange would open the circuit. To get away with this, the boat's batteries must be pretty well charged when you connect them up, otherwise the current flow to the discharged batteries will exceed the wiring's safe limits. (The smaller diameter wire is itself a restrictive factor limiting current flow, because of the resistance.) I can't say that this would pass and get the Electrical Engineering Safety Standards Committee's Blue Ribbon Stamp of Approval and/or the Betsy Crocker Clean Home Living Hygiene Seal of Approval, but I never had any problems with it! :lol:

Disclaimer of Liability: Blah, Blah, Blah, etc. :rose2 :rose2 :rose2

electrocution.thumb.jpg

Joe. :teeth :thup :
 
Tomorrow, we are apparently going to have wind gusts up to 50mph.

So it occurs to me that perhaps I need to abandon the PVC plan and go with some good, sturdy American steel. :)

I am now looking at this carport, though with 14 ft clearance and 30 ft long. I figure I'll lace on some canvas on each side, to give some horizontal cover from the elements..

Any thoughts?
---
mike
 
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