Bow eye ( guess it's also called trailer eye)

Z

zuunami

New member
so, we're going to take out the bow eye (2006 16' cruiser) because it looks like something's leaking up there, so we can epoxy, redrill, etc., - we're slowly doing that on all of our fittings. This is a pic with a camera with zoom, boy, it's difficult to get in there (and I'm Karen - 5' and 125#). Is there anything we can or should do when we take it out to shore it up, I can't believe that little ring through the hull is good by itself - But what do I know :) Also, isn't there some manufacturer that makes a system where the bolts are tightened from the outside! Obviously, I'm not looking forward to going under there and unbolting and rebolting that unit while the hubby holds the outside lol thanks!

K01_1730.jpg
 
Ksren, Yes it looks like it is due to change out. NO, I don't think there is any that will have the threads on the outside to put the nuts on out there. Sorry. Yes it is tight and Small. Good luck.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

JC_Lately_SleepyC_Flat_Blue_055.highlight.jpg
 
The bow eye and locking nuts are probably good quality SS. They can be cleaned up and reused. It is whatever they used for the backing plate that is badly rusted . Replace that with a SS plate and re tighten.

A cordless impact driver with a long extension and swivel socket would save you getting all the way in there and turning it by hand.

Rob
 
zuunami":19uzovq0 said:
so, we're going to take out the bow eye (2006 16' cruiser) because it looks like something's leaking up there, so we can epoxy, redrill, etc., - we're slowly doing that on all of our fittings. This is a pic with a camera with zoom, boy, it's difficult to get in there (and I'm Karen - 5' and 125#). Is there anything we can or should do when we take it out to shore it up, I can't believe that little ring through the hull is good by itself - But what do I know :) Also, isn't there some manufacturer that makes a system where the bolts are tightened from the outside! Obviously, I'm not looking forward to going under there and unbolting and rebolting that unit while the hubby holds the outside lol thanks!

K01_1730.jpg
Click to expand...

I am not familiar with the 16 but if the purpose of epoxy and redrilling is to seal the core, I don't think you will find any core material in that section of your boat. I would personally just reuse the u-bolt for raison mention above by Rob but definitely replace the backing plate asap. You could use something like this to be able to tighten from outside

338733_G.thumb.jpg
 
Agree, you most likely have to put in new bedding compound. I would probably use 3M 4000. Tape off around the outside, so you don't get it on the gel coat. It may be hard to find the exact backing plate in SS. I would get a local machine shop to make one out of 1/8" thick to 3/16" thick 316 stainless steel. Clean up the U bolt and nuts, re-install.
 
thanks everyone, going to try and get under there today :) C-Wolfe - the pic you posted didn't come out, what were you trying to post?
 
zuunami":30oziiye said:
thanks everyone, going to try and get under there today :) C-Wolfe - the pic you posted didn't come out, what were you trying to post?
Click to expand...

338733_G.jpg

Still need to install bolts from inside but final tightening can be done from outside
 
I'd replace the nuts with aircraft nuts (also called nylon locking nuts) - that's just me. They will be harder to turn but that's the idea - not to get loose.

MTCW, Jay
 
Nyloc nuts (as above) are an option, But I prefer to use a full thread nut 316 SS nut with Loctite 424. That gives a very secure fastening.
 
No argument with Dr Bob. Also I like the unique bow eye C-Wolf showed; would Dr Bob like the thin nut on the forward part of the eye? You could always replace it with a full thread nut; maybe not as good looking but safety isn't about looks.

Jay
 
C-Green":wvvje8ix said:
No argument with Dr Bob. Also I like the unique bow eye C-Wolf showed; would Dr Bob like the thin nut on the forward part of the eye? You could always replace it with a full thread nut; maybe not as good looking but safety isn't about looks.

Jay
Click to expand...

Although there is little strain on the bow eye of a 16, I would feel better with a full thread nut. I used to tow a 20' Grady White behind a trawler, and in that case we fabricated a full tow fitting much stronger than a toe eye.

I have seen tow eyes pulled out of the bow of boats--due to improper spreading of the load--but probably not from nut failure.
 
The forward nuts only keep the u-bolt from getting push back in, while tugging on it, all the pressure is on the backside (against the backing plate😁). That’s what I had on my previous boat for the trailer straps. I’ll add a picture soon.
 
Not all have the forward nuts. I suspect they are put there because some boats are not going to be even where the holes are drilled, and irregularities can be adjusted for. But I would not just tighten nuts from the outside. Keep those as close to the "U" as possible.
 
thataway":3145kke5 said:
Nyloc nuts (as above) are an option, But I prefer to use a full thread nut 316 SS nut with Loctite 424. That gives a very secure fastening.
Click to expand...

The nylon part is in addition to the threaded part. That's why nyloc nuts are taller than regular nuts. For aircraft use, they are not going to allow locking nuts that are less strong than regular ones. You're allowed to use a nyloc nut in place of a regular one (with a suitable locking mechanism) except in high heat or certain chemical environments. In critical applications you should only use a nyloc nut once. 3 screw threads should protrude out the top of the nut.
 
thataway":9cvoe3tj said:
Not all have the forward nuts. I suspect they are put there because some boats are not going to be even where the holes are drilled, and irregularities can be adjusted for. But I would not just tighten nuts from the outside. Keep those as close to the "U" as possible.
Click to expand...

Bob, I agree with you, most of the tightening should be done from inside, but you could probably have the last tug from the roomier outside, a full rotation or so at most. As always, feel free to correct me.

IMG_1217.jpg
 
Robert & Karen, If your frustration level begins to overwhelm your patience, you might consider using a "one piece cast stainless 316L pad eye" like the one shown below. This would allow you to use bolts, (with nuts on the outside of hull), to conveniently tighten securely. Use of "medium" Locktite on the "nuts" will allow for future tightening should they require it.

https://www.marinedepotdirect.com/oblon ... zEQAvD_BwE
 
Robert & Karen, If your frustration level begins to overwhelm your patience, you might consider using a "one piece cast stainless 316L pad eye" like the one shown below. This would allow you to use bolts, (with nuts on the outside of hull), to conveniently tighten securely. Use of "medium" Locktite on the "nuts" will allow for future tightening should they require it.

https://www.marinedepotdirect.com/oblon ... zEQAvD_BwE
 
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