Bow Anchor Rollers

Marty-

I think I understand your problem.

ferret30 has described one approach, namely to re-install by re-drilling new holes, moving forward with the mount. This may be difficult, or even impossible to do, if no room is available to move the holes forward.

What I'd try to do is to make a stainless plate to fit down in the lower half of the roller and between the lower and top half, which would extend the lower half's forward edge / lip out slightly, to thus catch the top half earlier in the pivoting travel, stopping it in the downward swing before it contacts the fiberglass bow of the boat.

There are some clearance issues between the two halves in pursuing this approach, but I'd try it first.

This might require lengthening the bolts, but would not require re-positioning the holes.

Thinking further, one might simply take the mount to a welding shop and have a plate welded inside the lower half at the forward section, then simply reinstall it with the original length bolts.

What is more, it may not be necessary to actually extend the lower section, just make it thicker forward, thus limiting the top parts downward swing.

Try it out by putting a few washers in the area we're talking about, taping them down good with duct tape, and operating the windlass to see if the increased thickness approach works. If so, you have a couple of choices in how to make the lower half thicker/higher at that point, as discussed above.

Let us know what you find & figure out!

Good Luck!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Thanks Joe and Ferret. I'll see if I can get my son Joe to weld a piece in, as you suggest. With the countless holes I'm filling in on the boat, I don't want to drill any more.
 
Another trick I used on a boat where I had to remove the bow roller to get the LOA under 45 feet (and keep a live aboard slip) was to bolt a plate of SS to the deck, and then attach the roller to that plate with flat head SS machine screws. Easy to take the roller off=--but in this case, use the original bolt holes for the plate--counter sink the flat head machine screws which are thru bolted to hold the plate on the deck. Then drill and tap the plate (1/4" min--better 3/8" thick) and screw the articulating roller into this fixed plate where ever you want it to be!
 
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