Have been reading the numerous posts about bottom paint but still am unsure on what type i need for my ( new to me )1985 22 Angler Classic. The hull has never been bottom coated and i plan on leaving the boat moored ( fresh water/Great Lakes ) from May to October. I would like to get a bottom paint that would last a few years at least. Thanks Tug
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Bottom Paint
- Thread starter Tug
- Start date
I think your best bet is to contact the local boat yards in that area that you are planning on mooring your boat as to the recommended paint for the type of marine growth you have in that area.
The will tell you that you first need to sand, apply an epoxy barrier coat and then the type of bottom paint and the number of coats to give you the protection for 2 years.
They will also provide you with a bank loan application so you can proceed with the project.
When you see their quote, you will be doing yourself a favor if you follow the material list and not scimp but save yourself a few dollars and provide the labor yourself.
Sounds like a spring time job to me.
The will tell you that you first need to sand, apply an epoxy barrier coat and then the type of bottom paint and the number of coats to give you the protection for 2 years.
They will also provide you with a bank loan application so you can proceed with the project.
When you see their quote, you will be doing yourself a favor if you follow the material list and not scimp but save yourself a few dollars and provide the labor yourself.
Sounds like a spring time job to me.
Mike..good idea..thanks...i will get a written material list and estimate on what i need. I had planned on doing the bottom coating myself. The flat bottom should make it easier to block-up and remove the trailer. Have done this a few times with deep V bottom boats..( to repair and seal bottom rivits ) and always found it difficult to sucure and balance deep V hulls to the point where i felt comfortable crawling under. Thanks again. Tug
Tug-
The local yards will know what type of paint to use for the local conditions, which will include freshwater and, (I assume), pulling the boat for the frozen winter months.
Some paints loose their effectiveness when stored out of water, so shouldn't be used if that's the plan, unless instead of a two-year job, it's planned to paint annually in the spring.
Annual painting might be better, seeing as how fresh paint might be a lot more effective, depending on what your current environmental laws allow in terms of types of paint.
Although I don't have to deal with it where I'm at, it's my understanding that some of the more effective formulations have been modified or eliminated over the past decade or two, making it harder to get long-term paint jobs.
Again, as Mike notes, your local yards will know what to use and do.
Joe. :teeth :thup
The local yards will know what type of paint to use for the local conditions, which will include freshwater and, (I assume), pulling the boat for the frozen winter months.
Some paints loose their effectiveness when stored out of water, so shouldn't be used if that's the plan, unless instead of a two-year job, it's planned to paint annually in the spring.
Annual painting might be better, seeing as how fresh paint might be a lot more effective, depending on what your current environmental laws allow in terms of types of paint.
Although I don't have to deal with it where I'm at, it's my understanding that some of the more effective formulations have been modified or eliminated over the past decade or two, making it harder to get long-term paint jobs.
Again, as Mike notes, your local yards will know what to use and do.
Joe. :teeth :thup
Chris Bulovsky
New member
You may be better off with no paint. I'm certain any store would love to sell some but see how other boats with out bottom paint fair. I'm skeptical of that stuff. Some of that paint is nasty toxic in order to do what it does. My concern is getting myself and kids exposed those ingredients. It may be different over your way with the Zebra mussels. I'd just be certain that you need it.
As Joe and Papillon say talk and ask around.
Chris
As Joe and Papillon say talk and ask around.
Chris
matt_unique
New member
There is a lot of info out there about bottom paint. The single best advice is to ask around in your area to see what others are using.
There are two types of paint..."hard" paint and "ablative" paint. The hard stuff is well...hard. The ablative paint 'sloughs off' with time/friction. I too never liked the idea of toxic paint sloughing off into the water plus hard paint is better for trailers. There are a number of sub varieties...some loose their effectiveness if removed from the water for example.
For the last decade I have used Pettit Unepoxy. I'm switching to the Unepoxy Plus this upcoming season as it offers a higher % of the cuprous oxide. I keep Napoleon in the water from the 2nd week of April to the last weekend in October. Even with a fresh coat of paint, she needs to be power washed about 2/3's the way through the season. The second season requires only a touch up. The third season requires an application of fresh paint over the entire bottom. I may continue to adjust my paint selection to higher cuprous oxide to try to find one that will truly last an entire season. You will find the cost of bottom paint is directly proportional to the level of cuprous oxide.
There are two types of paint..."hard" paint and "ablative" paint. The hard stuff is well...hard. The ablative paint 'sloughs off' with time/friction. I too never liked the idea of toxic paint sloughing off into the water plus hard paint is better for trailers. There are a number of sub varieties...some loose their effectiveness if removed from the water for example.
For the last decade I have used Pettit Unepoxy. I'm switching to the Unepoxy Plus this upcoming season as it offers a higher % of the cuprous oxide. I keep Napoleon in the water from the 2nd week of April to the last weekend in October. Even with a fresh coat of paint, she needs to be power washed about 2/3's the way through the season. The second season requires only a touch up. The third season requires an application of fresh paint over the entire bottom. I may continue to adjust my paint selection to higher cuprous oxide to try to find one that will truly last an entire season. You will find the cost of bottom paint is directly proportional to the level of cuprous oxide.
journey on
New member
Journey On spent a summer in the Great Lakes and here is what we found.
First, fresh water fouls a lot less than salt water. We had applied Micron CSC Antifouling Ablative Bottom Paint, which is ablative and can stand long periods out of the water. Second, the stuff that grew in the Great Lakes was easy to wipe off the bottom. Based on past experience with hard paint, I have one thought: don't use it. It builds up and then you have to grind it off. All of the good paint is expensive. Try the internet for sales.
As to painting the boat on the trailer, here's a few thoughts. First, if you have a roller trailer don't try to jack it up. The springs on the trailer just follow the boat up (for a while,) and you have to do a lot more jacking than you planned on. Just slide the boat back on the rollers, paint and then slide the boat back forward to get the missed spots.
Don't forget the epoxy barrier coat. There are a number of testimonials from people who never needed it, but it's a bear to put on afterward, and not too expensive.
Boris
First, fresh water fouls a lot less than salt water. We had applied Micron CSC Antifouling Ablative Bottom Paint, which is ablative and can stand long periods out of the water. Second, the stuff that grew in the Great Lakes was easy to wipe off the bottom. Based on past experience with hard paint, I have one thought: don't use it. It builds up and then you have to grind it off. All of the good paint is expensive. Try the internet for sales.
As to painting the boat on the trailer, here's a few thoughts. First, if you have a roller trailer don't try to jack it up. The springs on the trailer just follow the boat up (for a while,) and you have to do a lot more jacking than you planned on. Just slide the boat back on the rollers, paint and then slide the boat back forward to get the missed spots.
Don't forget the epoxy barrier coat. There are a number of testimonials from people who never needed it, but it's a bear to put on afterward, and not too expensive.
Boris
Micron is one coating I would certainly consider. I am currently trying Vivid on my 18 Caracal. It is in Fresh water, but run in salt water, and occasionally trailered. Reports are good on the Vivid and it is a nice looking paint. Yes, do the epoxy. I assume that you will be leaving the boat in the water for at least several months at a time.
When we moored our boat in Lake Washington back when we lived in Bellvue Wa we did not bottom paint at all . We would pull the boat out every 2 months and hose it off . I remember putting coats of wax on and growth was not a problem . We would keep our boat in the water from april -Dec. The boat was a 89 Seaswirl 230 Cordova Never a problem on lake Washington
Now the Great Lakes would be colder I think, so maybe try without paint wax the bottom and see how it goes then pull it out maybe once a month and clean it . Your resale will be better not bottom painting it especially being a trailerable boat, just my opinion and many Boat dealers as well.
Now the Great Lakes would be colder I think, so maybe try without paint wax the bottom and see how it goes then pull it out maybe once a month and clean it . Your resale will be better not bottom painting it especially being a trailerable boat, just my opinion and many Boat dealers as well.
Good idea....I came across this product last night that i may consider trying...Easy on Bottom Wax.. by Marine Tex as a substitute for bottom paint in fresh waters.I also like the idea of not having to paint the bottom of the boat....i may try the wax and pull the boat out every month and clean the bottom and apply more wax if needed.Think the cost of the Bottom Wax is about $49.00...alot less than a good bottom coat. Has anyone tried or heard about this product by Marine Tex. Tug
Tug-
Wax is a good idea......... if it works for you where you are!
My only reservation would be how often it had to be applied. Monthly would be OK for a few months, but get old fast, for me at least!
What kind of a trailer to you have, bunks or rollers? How hard will it be to work around the bottom supports, then move the boat on the trailer to get to the missing areas?
Not trying to be disparaging, just realistic and up front.
Joe. :teeth :thup
Wax is a good idea......... if it works for you where you are!
My only reservation would be how often it had to be applied. Monthly would be OK for a few months, but get old fast, for me at least!
What kind of a trailer to you have, bunks or rollers? How hard will it be to work around the bottom supports, then move the boat on the trailer to get to the missing areas?
Not trying to be disparaging, just realistic and up front.
Joe. :teeth :thup
Joe.....good point...thats the only drawback, i have a bunk trailer with a one piece solid roller bar thats spans the entire width of ( at ) the transom, think the bar is encased in rubber.The boat just rolls off the trailer once it clears the bunks, makes access to the bottom more difficult.In the Spring i will see how difficult it will be to move the boat around on the trailer. What would happen if i just moored the boat as is...and cleaned it in the Fall..would the fiberglass be stained beyond repair. Tug
patrick and linda
New member
tug,
dude, no paint works well if you don't mind paying $2,500 to $3,000 afterwards. left my boat in the water for 4 months, un-painted and what a surprise i received. 1000's of hostile 1/8" blisters. cost me 2800 for total restoration by washington marine. no warranty, however, c-dory did send me $500 to help offset the expense. (note, they had no obligation to do so, but viewed my loss and decided to extend a helping hand).
now i have the bottom painted every two years, whether it needs it or not. just freshly finished in oct. and looks great.
good luck
pat
dude, no paint works well if you don't mind paying $2,500 to $3,000 afterwards. left my boat in the water for 4 months, un-painted and what a surprise i received. 1000's of hostile 1/8" blisters. cost me 2800 for total restoration by washington marine. no warranty, however, c-dory did send me $500 to help offset the expense. (note, they had no obligation to do so, but viewed my loss and decided to extend a helping hand).
now i have the bottom painted every two years, whether it needs it or not. just freshly finished in oct. and looks great.
good luck
pat
1TUBERIDER
New member
A bottom painted boat parked on a yard will kill the grass under it while the paint is becoming less effective for its intended purpose.
patrick and linda
New member
that's correct. that's why all prudent c-dory boat owners will rent or own indoor storage to protect their investment! or, we parked our boat on the lawn, next to the pickup truck that's elevated by concrete blocks and slightly left of the tire flower pots. less stinking grass to cut!
pat
pat
Not to hi-jack your thread, but I figure this belongs here as opposed to starting a new thread. I'm looking at a boat that is a 2007 and has never been bottom painted. It was stored in the water during the season (May till October) with monthly haul outs to power wash/acid wash the hull bottom. I would be keeping it the water and would want to bottom paint it, my question is what prep work would be needed for this bottom? The bottom in photos looks to be in good shape. I'd imagine all the mold release wax from the manufacturer is gone by now, does the bottom still need to be sanded? can bottom paint be applied directly in this case? I'd look to add ablative bottom paint. Thanks for any info.
-Mark
-Mark
matt_unique
New member
Hi Mark,
Welcome to the club! What vessel do you have?
The wax is long gone if it's a 2007 that has been in the water. You always need to scuff the surface before applying bottom paint. Not a deep sanding at all, literally a few passes with a sand block to scratch the surface a bit, wipe clean, carefully apply your waterline tape (make sure it's high enough to cover your vessel when loaded/fully fueled, etc.) then have at it.
If I were starting with a fresh hull (sans paint), I would invest in the extra insurance and apply a 2 part epoxy bottom coat. This is an added measure to protect against blisters. Once cured, apply your preferred bottom paint. If paint was already applied, I would not bother in our area unless you plan to keep it in the water year round.
Welcome to the club! What vessel do you have?
The wax is long gone if it's a 2007 that has been in the water. You always need to scuff the surface before applying bottom paint. Not a deep sanding at all, literally a few passes with a sand block to scratch the surface a bit, wipe clean, carefully apply your waterline tape (make sure it's high enough to cover your vessel when loaded/fully fueled, etc.) then have at it.
If I were starting with a fresh hull (sans paint), I would invest in the extra insurance and apply a 2 part epoxy bottom coat. This is an added measure to protect against blisters. Once cured, apply your preferred bottom paint. If paint was already applied, I would not bother in our area unless you plan to keep it in the water year round.
Do not assume that all wax and silicones are gone. Even being in the water for 3 to seasons may not have gotten rid of wax or silicones. Also the owner may have used some cleaner wax or silicone product on the bottom. De wax the boat with specific dewaxing solvents--automotive paint supply houses will have these solvents.
It is always prudent to put on a barrier coat of two part epoxy. I would use the International system. Then an ablative paint. I am currently using Petite Vivid--there are others which are good.
It is always prudent to put on a barrier coat of two part epoxy. I would use the International system. Then an ablative paint. I am currently using Petite Vivid--there are others which are good.
When I decided to bottom paint my 8 year old hull, I chose Pettit Hydrocoat, a water-based (non-nasty) ablative.
Directions were to clean the bottom thoroughly, then use a dewaxing solvent (I believe I used Interlux) to be sure no more wax remains - I had been waxing the bottom.
Apply Pettit's sandless primer (2-3 coats). Drying time needs to be fairly precise, not too short or too long.
Then bottom paint (2-3 coats). Worked like a charm, with no sanding whatever. Four summers in AK on the paint and it looks like it'll go for a good bit more.
Directions were to clean the bottom thoroughly, then use a dewaxing solvent (I believe I used Interlux) to be sure no more wax remains - I had been waxing the bottom.
Apply Pettit's sandless primer (2-3 coats). Drying time needs to be fairly precise, not too short or too long.
Then bottom paint (2-3 coats). Worked like a charm, with no sanding whatever. Four summers in AK on the paint and it looks like it'll go for a good bit more.