Bootlace Wire Ferrules for Screw Terminal applications

[Bob&Alicia]

I was reading the installation manual for the Mastervolt charger and it said you should use a Bootlace Wire Ferrule as the screw terminal on the charger. I had never heard of a wire ferrule so I googled it.

This seems to be a European electrical requirement and not one in the US. I watched a couple of YouTube videos from people who use them when installing equipment and other manufacturing uses where vibration etc are a factor. Their rationale was that when you tighten the screw terminal down you flatten the wire and can have a up to 50% loss of connectivity. By inserting the wire into the Ferrule and using a Ferrule crimping tool that crimps the metal and not the plastic you "cold press" the wire together inside the Ferrule. The screw then presses into the Ferrule.

This all made sense to me but I lack a lot of knowledge around this kind of stuff so I thought I would see what this group thought.

 

[thataway]

I have used the wire ferrule, and I have soldered the end only in situations where I had a fitting which was a hole where there was a downward compressive force at the terminal. When possible I use crimp on ring terminals.

In my master volt (which I believe is identical to yours), I twisted tightly and then soldered the ends, before I put into the compressive area. (For the negative, where I ran 3 wires, I put a short cable to a buss bar, and all connections on the bus bar were ring terminals.

One of the issues with these ferrule, is having the proper crimper. I have also soldered some of the wires into these ferrules, which I was able to pick up at Home Depot (made for household wiring, but size was close enough). One of my ratchet crimper has interchangeable jaws, and one set is close enough for the ferrules.

Below is a non insulated ferrule,--they also have a small amount of insulation ,or you can put shrink wrap over the first few mm.

 

[d&linAK]

I often use these wire ferrules at work, connecting different components to a central computer using 'phoenix connectors.' Typically I'm using 14-22AWG stranded wires and a self-adjusting ratcheting ferrule crimping tool (that give a very consistent crimp). You can find these crimping tools on Amazon for about $20.

I find these crimped ferrule ends have worked pretty well - you don't have to worry about all the little strands getting in the way or getting kinked and broken off. Once you have the tool it makes it incredibly easy and quick to deal with small gage wires. I've seen them perform on commercial fishing vessels for several years without any issues. The one thing I do watch out for is that the compression screws that hold the wire in place are as tight as they can get (which can be difficult as the screws are tiny). I've seen improperly tightened connectors get loose after a season.

 

[thataway]

The one thing I do watch out for is that the compression screws that hold the wire in place are as tight as they can get (which can be difficult as the screws are tiny). I've seen improperly tightened connectors get loose after a season

I often put a drop of blue Loctite on the screw. On RV's a number of connections are similar and our routing annual maintenance is to go around and tighten these at least once a year.

 

[Karl]

The one thing I do watch out for is that the compression screws that hold the wire in place are as tight as they can get (which can be difficult as the screws are tiny). I've seen improperly tightened connectors get loose after a season

I often put a drop of blue Loctite on the screw. On RV's a number of connections are similar and our routing annual maintenance is to go around and tighten these at least once a year.

Doesn't tightening screws which have had blue Loctite applied break the Loctite bond, and require removal of screw and reapplication of the Loctite?

Loctite is also an excellent crevice-corrosion inhibitor, often working better than anti-seize compounds. I think once applied to terminal screws, I would simply leave them alone, unless particular ones have shown a propensity to loosen.

Loctite cures anaerobically and doesn't repair itself once the bond is broken, either by loosening or tightening the screw.

 

[BTDT]

I prefer using the commercial grade ring type connectors that use high quality clear shrink wrap. I add a dollop of dielectric grease to the screw connection and have never had an issue.

 

[thataway]

Doesn't tightening screws which have had blue Loctite applied break the Loctite bond, and require removal of screw and reapplication of the Loctite?

Loctite is also an excellent crevice-corrosion inhibitor, often working better than anti-seize compounds. I think once applied to terminal screws, I would simply leave them alone, unless particular ones have shown a propensity to loosen.

Loctite cures anaerobically and doesn't repair itself once the bond is broken, either by loosening or tightening the screw.

All good points.
I should have been clearer--on the boat I use the loctite,--check the connections visually.

The RV is subject to more vibration, and heat, since it is carrying up to 220 volts and 50 amps and there I tighten the connection on a regular inspection/maintance schedule.

Although Loctite has anticorrosion properties, by sealing off the moisture, I would not use it in place of anticorrosive grease or Corrosion Block on strip terminals.