Boat match to trailer?

C

captd

New member
Wefing, (Marc),

Marc, tell me about the trailer that came with the Ranger. I have had trouble with the boat bobbing up and down to the point I started using two turn buckles to hold the bow down. It ruins the turn buckle and bent the eye I attached it to.
Looking at the rating label on the trailer, it looks to me that the trailer is to light for the boat. Maximin load for both axles is 8600 lbs. Loaded with fuel and water plus normal stores must put the GVW over 10,000.
The trailer as you know, is a king made in Seattle. I was told by a knowledgable guy ( he builds trailers ) that something is wrong based on watching me move the boat.
Do you have a solution. Is the boat too heavy in the rear. He said the trailer should be a couple feet longer.

Darrel
 
I suspect your tongue weight is too low. I had that problem and they moved my axles back 6". Haven't taken the trailer on a long trip yet but everyone I talked to said that was probably the problem. I also added equalizer bars, but only after I converted the trailer to electric brakes (surge won't work correctly with equalizer bars.)
 
Darryl , I am working on that right now . I have to contact the factory and see what they have to say about it . I will be in touch after I get a chance to discuss with Ranger .
Marc
 
First thing to do is get some scale weights for the trailer total off the truck and the trailer, hitched to the truck. This will give you trailer weight and tongue weight. The weights should be $5 to $10 a weight. I always weigh my new boats and trailers on certified scales.
 
As always Bob is right on for step one .We need weights . Andrew at Ranger is aware of the issue and will be in touch with the manufacturer [ King] for their suggestions . I thought you may have weighed the rig on your way south , but maybe just total weight. Ill call you and see what we can do .
Marc
 
Trailer with boat total weight= 9300 lbs.+ Hitch weight goes on the rear axle of the truck.

Costs nothing to get certified weight. Had this done Nov 17, 2007.

Doryman, You have brought up a good point. I was planning on going to an equalizer hitch. A guy just came into the park with a slide in camper with the same hitch I have. With a big boat.He added a Reese equalizer. He swears by it. He said it raised the rear of his truck four or five inches. but ...........He may have had electric brakes on his boat trailer.

And no it is not short of hitch weight. Its sets the ton and a half truck down with Timberen Suspension a good 4 inches. Now don't get the idea that the bobbing is due to Hitch ext.. I am towing without the camper or the extension down here in Florida. The bucking seems to flex the trailer in its own tongue back to the wheels. The bunks are not touching the bottom of the boat the last foot or so.

My thinking is that it needs an other cross piece toward the front of the boat.

I am very anxious to hear what King Trailer has to say. Their paper work seems to say the Ranger would be to much boat for that trailer.
A lot of boat is forward of the last part of the bunk.

I appreciate the input from you guys. If there is no way around the surge brake problem using an equalizer, I go back to square one.
Captd
 
Captd– if it is dropping a 1 ½ ton truck down four inches, it would appear to me you may have too much tongue weight. Then not enough boat support up forward is causing the trailer to flex too much.

When you say “The bunks are not touching the bottom of the boat the last foot or so.” do you mean the front of the trailer or the back of the trailer? It will make a difference on the suggested remedy.

I had similar problems with my boat when I got it. It was much smaller and a smaller tow truck but the same principals applied. The Bow would actually come out of the post roller during towing, however the tongue weight was more than 10% of the trailler/boat weight. One thing I did until I figured out my remedy was to put a strap on the bow eye pulling straight down to the trailer.

You are probably right about another cross member farther forward or maybe a bow roller at the front V of the trailer, in addition I would guess you need a little tweaking on the set up.
________
Dave dlt.gif
 
Dave,
Sounds like you got a good handle on the problem. Andrew, at the factory ,they said the trailer was rated for 7000 lbs. Says the boat weighs 6400 with fuel and waste. All I could do was ask where in the world he got those figures.He suggests the wheel are out of line from hitting a curb and over loaded. They need to go back to the drawing board.

The boat is off the bunks in the forward part of the trailer. Looks like the curvature of the hull kind of leaves the bunk at that point. That is why I thought by adding another cross member up front would stop the bucking and take some of that weight that is causing the bob.

I use a turn buckle to a chain pulling straight down, Helps, but is a lot of strain.

captd
 
captd - are your bunks adjustable? Can you raise the front without changing the center or rear supports so there is a slight upward curve? If you can this might give more support in the front and help reduce the bounce.
________
Dave dlt.gif
 
Thats kind of what I was thinking, Dave. Those bunks are pretty stout and just the last foot or so is not touching. I emailed King trailers, I imagine Marc at Wefing is waiting to hear as well.

captd
 
captd":39le0vpe said:
Thats kind of what I was thinking, Dave. Those bunks are pretty stout and just the last foot or so is not touching. I emailed King trailers, I imagine Marc at Wefing is waiting to hear as well.

captd
Click to expand...

Why not just shave a 6 x 2 (or whatever size needed) down with a bandsaw (or whatever tool) and fit the resulting curved wedge into the space and carpet it over?

It wouldn't take a rocket scientist (or a registered graduate mechanical engineer with a perverted sarcastic sense of humor) to make that change!

Joe. :lol: :thup
 
Joe, I think I'd use a 2X6 and turn it the other way if needed. This from an electrical engineer with more degrees than I ever used!! :shock:

Charlie
 
Captains Cat":en45ib5v said:
Joe, I think I'd use a 2X6 and turn it the other way if needed. This from an electrical engineer with more degrees than I ever used!! :shock:

Charlie
Click to expand...

Thanks, Charlie!

I think your interpretation of what I wrote and what you visualized may be 90 degrees out of synch!

But which way it's cut will depend on how much curvature is really needed, anyway.

I meant to cut it at 90 degrees to the flat width, not the down the side of the tall dimension, thinking the lift-off (non-contact area) would be 2 inches or less in height.

Wow! This is hard to describe, with or without the handicap of multiple college graduate and/or post-graduate degrees!

Joe. :thup :teeth
 
captd":1uetbmzm said:
If there is no way around the surge brake problem using an equalizer, I go back to square one.
Captd
Click to expand...

Captd,

I recently read about the following load distribution / sway control hitch that is supposed to work with surge brakes. I have no personal experience with it, but I believe some other members here use it.

Look at the installation instructions before you buy. The parts that fit on the trailer need to be installed in a specific range of locations. On my trailer it would have required moving the spare tire and the post that holds the winch....something I did not really want to do.

Rob

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/
 
Thanks for that Rob, I'm going to continue to check into that.

Joe, I understand what you are getting at. There are some ajustments on the brackets to try yet. But before I start to screw around with it, I want to get all the info I can from every source. Like king trailer, Ranger factory and Wefing. So far the best info has come from the C-Brats. If the trailer is too light for the boat, I believe those people should be responsable 1st. If the trailer can handle the actual weight of the boat, maybe just another cross menber is all that needs to be added.
captd
 
Rob,
Thanks for the info on the web site. been looking in the wrong places. They do work with pole tongue and surge brakes. Just extra parts are necessary. You made my day.

Darrel
 
captd":tdmzlrsc said:
Thanks for that Rob, I'm going to continue to check into that.

Joe, I understand what you are getting at. There are some ajustments on the brackets to try yet. But before I start to screw around with it, I want to get all the info I can from every source. Like king trailer, Ranger factory and Wefing. So far the best info has come from the C-Brats. If the trailer is too light for the boat, I believe those people should be responsable 1st. If the trailer can handle the actual weight of the boat, maybe just another cross menber is all that needs to be added.
captd
Click to expand...

captd-

I understand you thinking. In addition to an additional cross-member, additional reinforcing, and extended/raised/adjusted bunks, a third axle would add up to 4,000 lbs. of carrying capacity.

Joe. :thup :teeth
 
I can not comment on your King Trailer. I went down to Wefings to pick up my R25 on Feb 4. After reading your post I was concerned about this since my order had specified a King trailer. However, Ranger sent a Easy Loader instead. After a week in Florida I drove back to north Alabama (about 400 miles) & the Easy Loader was great. no sway no boat movement. I had previously pulled heaver loads (bobcat) with my F250, 7.3 Diesel, 6 speed manual but not for that distance.
 
Bill, On the way to the Keys I used a chain and turn buckle streight down to the trailer, That stopped the bobbing. I am going to get an electric jack for the trailer and than install the hitch. The factory for the hitch said it would solve all my problems.
captd
 
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