Boat lift issue

B

BBlalock

New member
I am in the process of getting a used '25 CD and my lift is an issue. Looking for more ideas.
My lift runs with the current and at the bow end of the lift is a dock piling. It is on the ICW so rising and falling tides come into play. I need a way to be able to single hand driving on the lift but stopping within 8" of the piling. I think anything I use must be attached to the lift/bunks due to tides.
An example of my thinking would be a board attached to the aft end of the wood bunks so the motor shaft would bump up against it to stop. Correctly measured, of course.
BTW I have really enjoyed this site.
 
A photo of your lift might help us visualize the situation better.

I have a lift which I currently use for the 18' Caracal and the C Dory 22, with bunks set the same. My outboard motor is aft of the bunks, so for my lift a board back there would not help, unless you put some extensions on the bunks You would have to be sure the board was below the depth of the bow--probably easy to do.

You might consider a wireless remote control for the lift--that way you can leave it above the water when you leave the dock, and then lower it down when you get back. As soon as you position the boat, begin to bring the lift up, and then you don't have to get out of the boat to use the manual, or remote corded lift switchs.

Because the wind or slight current might move my boat, I do use a couple of lines to the stand offs when I get my boat positioned, while I hop off the boat, and walk to the lift controls.

One other idea is to have the forward standoff of the lift cradle right by the forward windows, and deck cleats. That way you can tie a loop of dock line around both standoffs, so that the boat is on the proper place in the lift cradle. this is what I do on my 22. But I realize that the current may push the boat forward before the lift is clear of the water-You would have the same problem with a board to stop the lower unit. So in the long run, a wireless remote is probably going to be your best bet. Gem and Galaxy are a couple of the the wireless remote builders--no endorsement--there are others.


Are you gong to have to hold the boat in place while the lift comes up? Again, the wireless remote would help with that. I have a friend with a railroad for his boat, and it is entirely run with wireless remotes, including, lowering the boat, unlatching from the carriage, latching and then bringing the boat back up.
 
We have a remote control unit for our lift which has front and back guide bars. We determined the correct boat alignment on the lift using the aft guide bar to an area on the washboard (close to a rod holder).

We use a line to a middle piling when using the lift.

When returning we drift in to the lift and add a line to a piling cleat, re position and lift. For launching, we use a line until boat is in reverse but boat in Charlotte Harbor and on a canal... and don't have large tide changes often and there are exceptions - storm surge, high rain falls, winter tides, high winds blowing water in and out.

A picture would help
 
I do have remote for the lift but the pilings are not tall and are below the boat as it nears full up. With my pontoon I have marks on the guide posts so I can see when I have minimum water over the bunks when coming in. Faster settling to get away from wakes and any chop.
I am going to use longer bunks anyway so the motor stopper board could be my best option.
 
BBlalock":dzppafa2 said:
I do have remote for the lift but the pilings are not tall and are below the boat as it nears full up. .
Click to expand...

You would only use the remote, with you in the boat, until, you are well "aground" on the lift, and can step off onto your dock.

If the pilings are that short, do you take the motors off during a storm surge?

Our lift will withstand a 15 foot storm surge. I had the 30 foot boat I owned at that time spider lined in the bayou--but had a 12 foot skiff it, during a 12 foot surge...
 
My pier is 7' above high tide and a narrow walkway is on top of the pilings. And that is about 2' above the pier. I have the only hydraulic operated lift around so all I do is take the pump mechanism off the pier before a storm. It has quick disconnects on the hoses.
The Overtons bumper would soften the bump into the pier but I want to stop short of a bump. Also, due to the tide changes, whatever I use must work no matter what the tide conditions. That is why I feel any option must be attached to the lift and not to the ground or pier.
There is an anchor sticking out the front too.
 
BBlalock":38u64l9a said:
My pier is 7' above high tide and a narrow walkway is on top of the pilings. And that is about 2' above the pier. I have the only hydraulic operated lift around so all I do is take the pump mechanism off the pier before a storm. It has quick disconnects on the hoses.
The Overtons bumper would soften the bump into the pier but I want to stop short of a bump. Also, due to the tide changes, whatever I use must work no matter what the tide conditions. That is why I feel any option must be attached to the lift and not to the ground or pier.
There is an anchor sticking out the front too.
Click to expand...

A hydraulic lift is extremely unusual--at least in Florida. Many of the issues which are present in a cable life would be different in a hydraulic lift--

Be sure and put a photo up when you get the album. If you have a boat name, get the album by asking the moderator now.

It sounds as if you have to ride the boat up to get on and off. --compounded by tides, any surface chop and wakes from the ICW!
 
Sorry for not responding earlier but I do have some info now.
Actually the hydraulic lift was mfg in FL by what is now IQboatlifts.com
I called them and they might start building them again. No back lashing and way faster.
We do ride on the lift and up to unload. That is nice.
Just stumbled on a bow stop, see below.
http://www.boatliftanddock.com/p-508-sh ... a1180.aspx
Canvas people have Finale making the camperback. Hope to have in home next weekend.

:smilep
 
Here is the end to this thread.
For $$$ the hydralic lift is being removed and replaced with a cable lift that is going to be 12' from the pier instead of only 6' and a motor stop attached to the bunks.
Most problems concerning boats can be solved with enough $$$$.
Just my .02
 
Glad the issues are being solved. Is the 12 feet from the end of the slip--instead of 6' (piling ref. you don't want to hit?

With cable lift and current, the entire cradle may swing forward--although the bow stop attached to the cradle, should stop the boat (never seen one fitted to a lift), the cradle can swing forward on the cables. Is this an issue, and if so, are use using a restraint" to keep the cradle/boat from going too far forward?....As you say...$$$$ will solve all of the issues, except some permitting...!
 
BBlalack,
I purchased a small lift for my Melonseed and Drascome several months ago and it came with a remote couple for two motors, which I will never use. If you want to go with remote control system on your davit, contact me, as I may never use this device. I have my C-Dory o another lift and will not be putting the remote system on that lift either...
 
Thataway
There is a Bow Stop mfg and it is attached to the front beam. I will be using a motor stop which is attached to the rear beam.
The cable lifts we use here hang inside the pilings and the pilings stop the cradle from going too far forward. The anchor should get no closer than 2' from the pier.
:shock:
 
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