Boat heaters

Brooks Cooper

New member
Just a question. Has anyone installed or is familiar with the Airtronic diesel heater? I'm thinking of putting one on Coop's Cruiser since my recently repaired wallas P.O.S. stove took another dump. I refuse to keep having it repaired again and again and again etc. For the cost of repairing it I can put in this heater.
 
Fireguy,

You might try Barry (Colobear) on C-Cakes. I belive he is very satisfied with his.

We had "issues" with the Wallas stovetop on our CD22 until we had it completely re-built by Scan Marine but even then it was not a perfect heater and not a perfect cooktop although it is a very compact solution for a small boat.

On our RF246 we went with the Wallas D30 which is very similar to the Espar unit you are considering and I have been working outside on the boat during our PNW "deep freeze" (all things are relative) with it running at about 50% or less. So far (12 months) this unit has been 100% reliable, probably because it is much closer to Wallas's basic product expertise.

If you fit suitable ducting, the forced air units get over the problem of cold spots in the berth or cabin without needing additional fans.

Merv
 
I have a Webasto heater, installed by Les Lampman, and am quite satisfied. Not a single hiccup in performance entering its fourth year of service; it is thermostatically controlled with ducted air.

However, two aspects may give some people pause. First, it is (I think) a drip system and when the diesel/kerosene/kleen-heat is "dripped" or injected there is a regular ticking noise, not loud but apparent, about like a clock ticking. Second Since it is forced air it has a blower and the blower can be noisy; again, not too loud but noticeable. Having said that, I would install it again. it is reliable with different fuels, trouble-free, and effective.
 
:oops: Sorry Barry, my mispeak, I forgot yours was a Webasto. Must be the fog!
Still that raises two more options for Fireguy to consider.

Getting cabin fever. May break out and go if the sun shines as predicted.

Merv
 
In my workshop I have a Toyotomi heater.....and I see that they have one for boats... and it is less expensive... mine does a great job...

On the Intercoastal.... up a bayou we met Ed Thieme aboard Rambler....he lives on his 25 cruiser for a year...then a year in Colorado...what the life... He had a Dickerson heater running...neat... mounted it to the wall of the bathroom.... it had the cabin toasty.... and the neat part was looking at the fire... we had coffee and he gave us a book he had just finished reading.....we spent a hour visiting then on down the Intercoastal we went....

Joel
SEA3PO
 
We've put a small radiant propane model in our 16 that works great but, I've dreamed of tapping into the hot water that comes from the pee-hole on my Honda 50 and piping it to a heater core with fan inside.

Grill_Mount_1.sized.jpg
 
Another propane you might consider is a Mr. Buddy Heater. Just remember to crack a window. It does fine on our 16 footer and costs around $75.

mr-buddy.jpg
 
I promised that I wouldn't do it but I have to. I would say that in any situation that you have a propane heater inside a boat where it is not vented to the outside world, one needs to buy the 1500 dollar option that doesn't come with them: Radar as your windows are going to be so dang foggy you aren't going to be able to see where you are going......But, hey I have used one too. No sweat.....it is on the glass......
 
I first looked at the Buddy heater but was afraid that it would tip over and didn't see a secure way to mount it. We got the Mr. Heater for $25.00 on sale and I adapted it to my grill mount. It can also function as a stove. I got my idea from something similar that oldgrowth of C-Voyager made (below). And it does get good ventilation when we are under way. A window cracked open and the gaps around the camperback. We also got a Garmin radar as well.

heat1.sized.jpg
 
My usual warning about using the propane unvented heaters (even catalytic) and CO applies to any of these heaters. Deaths have been reported. You need ventillation and good CO detectors.
 
Yup, that CO falls to the floor like invisible water and fills up the boat till it spills over the lowest side wall. On my 22 this is several inches above the bed, though the boat does have a CO detector.
 
Capital Sea":28jsvg81 said:
Yup, that CO falls to the floor like invisible water and fills up the boat till it spills over the lowest side wall. On my 22 this is several inches above the bed, though the boat does have a CO detector.

Most CO detector manufacturers recommend placing the CO detector above -- near the ceiling. Is it different in a boat? The clip below is an example:

"When considering where to place a carbon monoxide detector, keep in mind that although carbon monoxide is roughly the same weight as air (carbon monoxide's specific gravity is 0.9657, as stated by the EPA; the National Resource Council lists the specific gravity of air as one), it may be contained in warm air coming from combustion appliances such as home heating equipment. If this is the case, carbon monoxide will rise with the warmer air. For this reason, the makers of First Alert®, a leading brand in carbon monoxide detector technology, suggests mounting the detector on the ceiling. This also puts the detector out of the way of potential interference, such as pets or curious children."
(http://www.homesafe.com/coalert/detect.htm)

See also:

"INSTALLING A CO DETECTOR: A FEW CONSIDERATIONS
One reason that ABYC may have been slow to recommend the use of CO detectors may be their reputation in the past for emitting unnerving false alarms periodically. You could almost count on a CO detector made prior to 1992, the older "single point" alarms, to sound whenever they detected even the slightest trace of CO. Since a whiff or two of CO is likely to drift into a cabin several times a day, the frequent alarms were an ongoing nuisance. After 1992, however, manufacturers began making more technically advanced units that use "time-weighted averaging" to greatly reduce the number of alarms. By averaging the CO over a period of a few minutes, these newer alarms will not sound unless they repeatedly detect CO. Some of the newer units can even do things like disengage the generator if CO is detected. A proper marine CO detector, incidentally, will have the UL 1524 marine mark, which means it was tested by Underwriters Laboratories standard 1524.

ABYC does not say where on the boat a CO detector should be located. The gas, which is about the same weight as oxygen, tends to dissipate evenly in an area and isn't any more likely to be found up near the ceiling or down by the cabin sole. As a practical matter, placing an alarm at eye level allows you to easily monitor any meters or warning lights on a unit. Sleeping areas, main saloons, an enclosed fly-bridge, and anywhere else people spend time are candidates for a CO detector. Areas that should be avoided include near hatches or doors where fresh air might distort readings. Dead air spaces-corners-should also be avoided."
(http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/course_re-write/carbonmonoxide.html)
 
Just to be clear, I see my job as being the guy who puts out bad information with the intent that we all pass the final together.
Sheeesh! I was given that load of bull when I purchased my camp trailer.
 
You're not the only one with that information Capital Sea- as a number of people questioned the location of the CO detectors on the new C-Dorys (Dories?) at the Seattle Boat Show, and I too though CO settled at the bottom of the boat.

Now I know!
 
Fireguy,

Following the lead of Barry on C-Cakes, I asked Les to install a Webasto on my boat during fitting as well. But since I had the new moulded interior it would not fit as well, so he made a change. I have a Wallas 30D Heater with ducted air. Yes, I know you are probably fed up with Wallace, but I've had no problems with this furnace and it will drive you out of the cabin in short order. It is not thermostatically controlled, but is on/off with three fan speeds so we have to be the thermostat. I am really pleased with the perfrormance...............so far.

My $.02 worth and Good Luck!

Doug DeVore
Lil' Brother
 
The best place for the CO detector is close to where your mouth/nose will be--In my boats near the head of the bunk--and by the helm station. As noted, CO is considered to have a specific gravity very close to air (slightly lighter)--currents, heat etc may move it one way or the other. But it is not like butane, which is heavier than air, and will settle in the bottom of the boat.

There may be some confusion, because CO2 has a specific gravity of about 1.5 (close to that of propane)--and is also heavier than air.
 
Absolutley spot on Dr. Bob. All ours are at head height in areas where people might be sleeping. At other times there is usually a door or something open.
Only thing is that green light keeps me awake...

Merv
 
I have a Toyo oil heater in my shop...and I have had problems with it... it smokes...and smells like diesel in the shop... It gets it's combustion air and also exhausts outside through a double layer exhaust pipe.... something leaks.... I bought the heater new...and it has always been a problem... wrote to the distributor in Mt. Shasta...and got no reply so I wrote to the corperate office...and got no reply... guess I am on my own... it's out of warrantee.. this summer I am going to tear it apart and look for the leak... I just can't stand it as it is now... it's their Toyotomi Diesel heater...although I can't use diesel or it really smokes.

Joel
SEA3PO
 
i drove for a trucking co. outta mn., and we had espar heaters in our bunks. we didn't have to idle for heat 'til it was about 20 degrees or below - to keep the fuel from gelling. i never had a problem keeping warm, or with fumes or noise. the cabs were alot bigger than the space of the 22.
 
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