Boarding Planks, Ladders, and Other Ideas

S

Sea Wolf

New member
Some time back, I mentioned that as we get older, getting on and off the boat becomes increasingly difficult, particularly with the boat beached. Climbing over the bow can be difficult for some, and even impossible for others.

Yellowstone John mentioned to me at Shasta Lake three years ago that he had built a plank that served this purpose. When I mentioned that in the discussion above, Mark (3rd Byte) emailed me that he had photos of John's project and some written notes from him. Thanks to Larry H (Nancy H), those photos are now on page 4 of the Cockpit and Accessories Photos here:
LINK

I'd like to initiate a discussion here of alternate ways to approach this boarding problem, as I'm sure there are many of us who would like to have a workable solution for our own particular needs.

It's actually at least two problems in one, as the storage issue must also be worked into the solution as well as the boarding solution itself.

Depending such factors as tides, type of landing surface for the boat, and the needs of the particular person trying to disembark and return, the problem itself could be very different. In some cases, anchoring and rowing ashore in a dinghy is the only viable option sans the presence of a dock.

But for many of us which are in a situation where we can safely beach the boat, a nice ladder or workable plank would be a great addition. Does this interest any others of you? Joe.

Edited by Da Nag - long link fixed.
 
Joe, as I've written before........what works best for us is the use of an anchor buddy and having the swim step on the stern of "Sea Shift". When we are at a location where we wish to "beach", I cruise into shore, place the stern of the vessel towards the beach where my crew can step off the swim step onto shore, then while they are holding on to a "tag line" attached to one of the stern cleats, I motor out from shore drop an anchor with an attached anchor buddy to the bow eye or bow cleat. Then the crew pulls the "tag line" ("Sea Shift") to shore, I step onto the swim step and on to shore and then "pay out" the tag line so "Sea Shift" isn't "grinding" with any wave action on the shore. The tag line is tied off to a log, tree, large rock etc. and whenever someone wants to reboard the vessel they can keep the tag line secured on shore and merely pull the vessel back to shore, step onto the swimstep and back on board. At night, we keep the "tag line" attached to shore, board the vessel and "pay ourselves out" and rest off shore at anchor. In the morning, when we wish to bring the vessel back to shore, we pull on the tag line which is still attached to shore and pull ourselves back to shore. The advantages of this method is that the vessel's bow is always facing out towards any incoming wave activity and there is no danger of the vessel grounding should tide go out or low water if on a "dam controlled" lake. If during the day, and there is not much wave activity, you can keep the stern of the vessel "tight" to shore and easily ingress and egress the vessel without having to constantly "work the tag line". This system has worked well for us both in the San Juan Islands and at Lake Roosevelt.
 
Dave-

Thanks for the idea!!! Now we have two viable systems to choose from! Here's a link to the Anchor Buddy web site with an animated illustration, although its reversed end for end in the example.

http://www.anchorbuddy.com/

Going off the stern is much easier than climbing over the much higher bow, and the swim step has its own built-in storage.

Do you ever have prop damage when backing into shore?

How large an auxiliary anchor do you use for this purpose?

Do you think the anchor buddy could be used on the shore end, with the regular anchor and the windlass used to control the in-out position of the boat?

Looks like a very good idea, overall! Joe.
 
was cruising the C-Dog site and saw a great boarding "plank"/system that a labador was climbing up. Kinda had flotation balls to float it up until something was on it. Looks like it was made by another C-Dory owner, and could very easily be adapted to have side rails if wanted, and attached with little effort to the bow or stern area with a little more design...but that may have already taken place too... Today, it is on the web site photo when you go to the site.
 
Do you think the anchor buddy could be used on the shore end, with the regular anchor and the windlass used to control the in-out position of the boat?
Click to expand...
Joe, I've successfully moored lakeside that way in another boat by backing in with the outdrive/outboard partially raised and the hook well set, then use an ordinary line directly to shore instead of the "Buddy". Didn't have a windlass, but my "crew" would coordinate the rode so the boat could be pulled in all the way when the drive was fully raised. Crew didn't like her feet too wet. Switched to a more seaworthy crew since....

Once unloaded, I would pull the shore line down the beach until the boat was a safer distance from shore, then tie it off. Thanks to a high school math teacher for that trick. :wink: It's not too good where tides are a problem but it does keep the wave action from grinding the bottom on the beach.

Don
 
Like Dave, we also use the Anchor Buddy and find that it works perfect! I could not be more happy with the Anchor Buddy/swim step-combo. We always BBQ/camp fire on shore. Then sleep aboard. We always have two large dogs (lab & Shepherd) that climb on and off the boat over the swim-step about a thousand times a day. The shepherd is my guard. So when I climb aboard to get one more item she does too.

The main anchor could be used but it would be a bit tricky to get set up. Considering the bow roller/windlass. The anchor buddy stretches about four times it's original length. When you tie the Anchor Buddy along the main line you must leave about four times the anchor buddy stretch length in the main anchor line. Actually it is a dab shorter. That way if a storm kickes up, the main line will pull tight just before the Anchor Buddy stretches to maximum for a strong hold.

I use a 20LB river anchor for a spare/stern and the Anchor buddy. After I adjusted the anchor line the first time I have not had to make further adjustments. Just motor to appropriate depth and drop anchor over stern. Let out slack and back to shore. (Wind and waves almost always drift you in) Run stern line to shore. Then carry anchor rope end up to the bow. Take up slack and tie off. Pull stern line to go ashore. The cool part is when you let go of the rope on shore and watch your boat head back out without you.

We find that if there is only one other boat on the lake they ALWAYS have to come flying by, making a huge wave to get a look at a C-Dory. I find that extremly upsetting when the boat is beached. :amgry With the Anchor Buddy and the boat in the deep. the urge to shoot somebody isn't quite as strong. As Dave pointed out, with the Bow out she rides the waves at anchor just fine. The stern line controls swing.
 
Sea Wolf":knfro166 said:
Dave-

Do you ever have prop damage when backing into shore?

How large an auxiliary anchor do you use for this purpose?

Do you think the anchor buddy could be used on the shore end, with the regular anchor and the windlass used to control the in-out position of the boat?
Joe.
Click to expand...

Q 1) No prop damage. Normally, slight wave action allows you to drift to shore with engines off and raised.

Q 2) I utilize a "Danforth" type anchor similar in size to my main "Bruce" type anchor.

Q 3) Unless, I'm visualizing this wrong, it seems to me that defeats the purpose of "springing" the boat out away from shore when you are on shore. (ie: I'd have to be on board to operate the windlass....then it would normally be a COLD swim back to shore in these waters thereby defeating the purpose). :disgust
 
Chris, Don, Pat, and Dave:

Thanks for all the great ideas so far! Looks like there's a lot to choose from! As usual, a combination of methods would allow one to adapt to varying conditions. Keep 'em coming!

Dave- I didn't explain exactly what I was thinking: With an all chain rode as I have, the heavy chain pulls forward to get as much of the weight on the bottom as possible, providing some "spring" back toward the anchor. I was thinking this could be used in conjunction with the Anchor Buddy elastic line tied to the shore to allow the boat to be pulled to shore, then let out back to anchor, sort of a double elastic set-up with a power adjustment forward and backward when in the boat, as well as a very firm anchor to sea for a solid overnight moorage. To return to shore, the elastic rear line could be tightened and, as necessary, the anchor rode let out.

More discussion:

A nice addition would be a plank hinged on the swim platform which could extend from the platform anywhere from 3-6 additional feet toward shore.
It could have quick disconnect hinge pins (Ball Lock style) and utilize sailboat rudder fittings. Could be stored on the roof a-la John Dracon.

On the back of the boat above the swim platform, safety grab handles would assist one over the side and down to the platform (I have these now for the swim ladder below).

Non-skid on the engine well is also a nice addition, as we have seen.

A continuous curved ladder from the swim platform to the front of the motor well could provide a more secure hand-hold system for less agile boarders.

Hmmmmmmmm.?????? Keep on turning the gears! Joe.
 
Sea Wolf":1s1glddy said:
Chris, Don, Pat, and Dave:
Dave- I didn't explain exactly what I was thinking: With an all chain rode as I have, the heavy chain pulls forward to get as much of the weight on the bottom as possible, providing some "spring" back toward the anchor. I was thinking this could be used in conjunction with the Anchor Buddy elastic line tied to the shore to allow the boat to be pulled to shore, then let out back to anchor, sort of a double elastic set-up with a power adjustment forward and backward when in the boat, as well as a very firm anchor to sea for a solid overnight moorage. To return to shore, the elastic rear line could be attached and, as necessary, the anchor rode let out. Joe.
Click to expand...

Joe, quite possibly that would work.....however, for me it wouldn't because at "0 dark thirty" in the morning when I switched on the windlass to pay anchor rode out to enable me to get the boat to shore to walk the dog, all of this preparation would be in vain, as the 1st Mate would be flying out of a deep sleep in the V-Berth at the sound of the windlass and the dog and I would be swimming to shore. :crook
 
Dave- Ha!!! Swimming with the dog at 3 a.m.? Just as I thought, different solutions would work for different folks! I don't take Shadow (now 175 lbs and "growing") on the C-Dory anymore, as she is to lacking in agility to get in and out easily. But she loves to go out on the pontoon boat, and can get on and off it without any problem. Next time I think I'll have to settle for a dog smaller than a Great Dane! Joe.
 
SUCCESS!!!

I have been corresponding with Bill and Brenda about the Boarding Ladder and Seat Bench Project discussed previously. They have been very ingenious in following through with the original concept!!! Here is the link to the photos in the Cockpit and Accessories Photos section, and the text follows: (BE SURE TO LOOK AT ALL THREE PHOTOS)

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php

“I HAVE ADOPTED THE COCKPIT SEAT IDEA FOR MY 22 CRUISER BY USING YOUR IDEA FOR THE SEAT/BOARDING PLANK. THANK YOU.

I ALSO MADE A BOARDING LADDER THAT ATTACHES TO THE BOW RAIL OR THE FRONT CLEAT. IT IS MADE UP OF THE FOLLOWING:

1. THREE STEP FOLDING (BASS PRO) LADDER.

2. EYE HOOK (1/2'') WITH 1'' ANGLE IRON.

3. ALUMINUM L CARPET CUSHION.

4. ALUMINUM FLAT CARPET CUSHION.

IT FOLDS UP AND IS LIGHT WEIGHT.

MY LADDER WORKS GREAT FOR MY 70 YEAR OLD KNEES WHEN BOARDING FROM THE TRAILER OR WHEN BEACHED.


The ladder is secured to the bow rail with an eye bolt cut so that
it just hooks over the rail base. One could use a nut (preferred), but I cut
the bolt and secured it with a roll pin at the precise distance and covered
it with white tubing to prevent injuries. The aluminum L has to be
ground down to allow this close fit to the bow rail and the edge of the boat.
The fit is so close that one has to manipulate (turn the I bolt and twist
the ladder), which prevents accidental detachment.


BILL and BRENDA (NEW MEMBERS)

HOORAY FOR A JOB WELL DONE !!!!!

Joe.
 
I finally got the boat home from the marina slip a few weeks ago and was able to install the beach boarding ladder on the bow:


IM001839.jpg

This is a Windline TDL-3X ladder designed for use on a swim platform, and designed to fold up on top of the platform when not in use,

I put it as far forward as I could, so as to be as far up the beach and out of the water as possible, as one of the objectives of the front mounted beach ladder is to be able to get on and off the boat without wading.

Thfe ladder rests against the rub rail when down, and supports 225 lbs easily without bending.

The storage of the ladder is vertical with a bungee cord, so that it doesn't interfere with the anchor apparatus. Also, from the helm, it is largely in line (or on edge), so that the view forward is blocked very little.

IM001842.jpg

While I choose the three rung ladder, I can board using only the top two rungs, but the third would be good for less nimble persons or children. I'm not very nimble myself, but can step from the top rung over the bow pulpit easily. You have to grasp the bow pulpit with both hands for support when climing over. One can also step up to the gun whale (gunnel) before stepping over the pulpit to make the step smaller.

I'm going to modiofy the bungee cord system to one long cord that dead ends at the bottom rung and can be wrapped around the entire telescoped ladder so as to have an easy retrival line and only one bungee to deal with, which is also captive and can't be dropped overboard. The three loop/ball bungees are a little more trouble to deal with and can snap around and whack your hands when releasing them.

I'm going to try to add a rope rung or two to the bottom of the ladder later this summer, so as to be able to board the boat from the water. Should be able to set up the bungee to afford a low release point for reboardidng after accidental overboards.

Will be glad to answer any questions.

Joe.
 
OK, Joe, looks slick. Would it be possible to drop that ladder while the boat is on the trailer and use it as a boarding ladder for launching single handed? I usually climb to the top of the winch but stepping up and over the bow rail makes me a tad nervous.

Don
 
Don-

As a matter of fact, yes, you can use it to board the boat from the trailer when launching, retrieving, or at rest. The first step from the trailer frame to the lower rung is about 20", but very do-able.

IM001874.sized.jpg

Thanks,

Joe.
 
Larry-

Thanks for the compliments!

The PV pipes on the trailer have holes drilled every 20" or so from front to back. There are 20 numbered ribs from front to back made up of 1/2" diameter smaller PVC pipes with 1/2" dowels inserted into the ends that fit into the holes in the bigger pipes. They form a "covered wagon" like structure over the boat to hold a cover for storage that is above all the sharp points and won't tear from the wind, rain, etc. The ones in the front are shorter than the ones in the middle, etc. Bungees hold the cover ends down over the ribs to the trailer frame.

It's for storage when the barn isn't available.

If this isn't sufficient, let me know!

Joe.
 
Hi Joe,
I just noticed that you had added port holes on your boat. They look great and fit the space like a glove. More details please and pictures of the install if you have them.

Mike
 
Thanks for the photos, Joe. Good old Ebay had 'em for less than a Benjamin so I snapped one up.

I like your portholes as well, though it's not something I'd do myself.

Don
 
Joe – a good design that is useful and looks professionally done as all of your projects do.
Do you push the boat off then jump on the ladder or board the boat and push off with a pole?
 
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