matt_unique
New member
Bad Boy":3jf08fyu said:
Thanks George!
Best Trailer for A TomCat 255?
- Thread starter Mike...
- Start date
Thanks George!
Matt -
I don't think the silicon pads have to be continuous on the bunks. Mine are rectangular, about 4 inches by 18 inches ( a guess ) and they have 4-6 inches in between them. I've never had any problem just driving the boat right up to the stop, but lately the marina is setting my boat onto the bunks since there are low trees on the ramp road that the radar arch will not clear unless I hire some guys to lift the limbs.
John
I don't think the silicon pads have to be continuous on the bunks. Mine are rectangular, about 4 inches by 18 inches ( a guess ) and they have 4-6 inches in between them. I've never had any problem just driving the boat right up to the stop, but lately the marina is setting my boat onto the bunks since there are low trees on the ramp road that the radar arch will not clear unless I hire some guys to lift the limbs.
John
If your purpose is to avoid wear on the hulls, I would suspect that a continous piece of material would be best. You want the slicks, only on the front part of the bunks, and to chain the boat down, more securely than if no slicks. (I would put rachet straps over the bow section as wall as the stern if trailering any distance.
It would not be necessary to put the Glide On on mid to aft section of your bunks because the boat does not slide across those sections. Boat is floating when launching and retrieving above those sections. Only the front bunks, where the boat is actually in contact with the bunks, is where you need these. An observation of your boat/trailer at the launch ramp will help you decide.
I actually prefer carpet on the mid to aft sections because carpet has more friction and helps to keep the boat from "sliding" while trailering. Very important if you accelerate from a stop or have to apply hard braking.
There are stories of people putting these Glide On, Slick Bunks on 100% of their bunks, remove the front tow strap (bad idea with any type of material), and while they were backing their boat on the ramp, actually saw their boat slide off the trailer. A slight tap of the brakes and you increase the risk of a boat sliding off.
I actually prefer carpet on the mid to aft sections because carpet has more friction and helps to keep the boat from "sliding" while trailering. Very important if you accelerate from a stop or have to apply hard braking.
There are stories of people putting these Glide On, Slick Bunks on 100% of their bunks, remove the front tow strap (bad idea with any type of material), and while they were backing their boat on the ramp, actually saw their boat slide off the trailer. A slight tap of the brakes and you increase the risk of a boat sliding off.
matt_unique
New member
Good advice for sure. I would never put slicks on the whole thing, just the forward portion to reduce wear wear on the knife edge. I specifically want the friction of the carpet to keep her still, that is one of the advantages of bunks.
Thanks for the information. I also emailed Tie Down Manufacturing and they said the #86172 (for 2X6 bunks) was discontinued and replaced with #86295 for black and #86296 for white.
Thanks for the information. I also emailed Tie Down Manufacturing and they said the #86172 (for 2X6 bunks) was discontinued and replaced with #86295 for black and #86296 for white.
cmetzenberg
New member
Does anyone know where to get the templates for the trailer bunks? I'm getting a custom trailer made for my new tomcat and the guys at C-dory were only somewhat helpful. Going with Baja trailers in southern california.
I got my trailer from Float-on. I don't know if they'd be willing to provide the measurements to another vendor but I suspect not. I could perhaps measure it this weekend if I have time. The trailer is about 150 miles from me but I'll be out there fishing this weekend. Thataway Bob (Bob Austin) may have the measurements since he was the first one that got a Float-on for a TC 255. I just asked Float-on to duplicate what they did for Bob (copying Bob is often a good idea). Also Marc at Wefing may have some measurements as he had input on the Float-on design.cmetzenberg":154ocwxi said:
redbaronace
New member
cmetzenberg":271le4zj said:
Curious as to what a new 255 Trailer goes for.
I don't have any dimensions, but there are some photos of the trailer on my album:
I have a second Cat trailer for the Caracal 18 feet--which is also aluminum, has a similar bow stop, and center bunks.
I do believe that the aluminum trailers are better--they are lighter, they have less corrosion/rust, and are open, so no hidden tube damage. Torsion axels get the boat lower--
The trailer I had was capacity of about 12,000 lbs. We had the two 16" wheels, instead of 3 14 to 15" wheels. Much less scuffing that a 3 axle trailer. I like having both side bunks and the center bunks--be sure that the center bunks are substantial welding.
The actual bunks were two 2 x 6, slightly V, covered with carpet. The spacing you can get off the boat or factory. You want the center line between he two boards at precisely the center line of each hull.
The forward stop needs to be very strong and well braced. Just one stop does not cut it. Electric over hydraulic brakes I would say are almost mandatory for West Coast trailering. Be sure and put some form of a ladder for boarding the bow on the bow stop.
Put slicks on about the front 1/3 of the trailer. Be sure and strap the stern, and have a hold down chain or turnbuckle for the bow eye as well as the winch strap.
I have a second Cat trailer for the Caracal 18 feet--which is also aluminum, has a similar bow stop, and center bunks.
I do believe that the aluminum trailers are better--they are lighter, they have less corrosion/rust, and are open, so no hidden tube damage. Torsion axels get the boat lower--
The trailer I had was capacity of about 12,000 lbs. We had the two 16" wheels, instead of 3 14 to 15" wheels. Much less scuffing that a 3 axle trailer. I like having both side bunks and the center bunks--be sure that the center bunks are substantial welding.
The actual bunks were two 2 x 6, slightly V, covered with carpet. The spacing you can get off the boat or factory. You want the center line between he two boards at precisely the center line of each hull.
The forward stop needs to be very strong and well braced. Just one stop does not cut it. Electric over hydraulic brakes I would say are almost mandatory for West Coast trailering. Be sure and put some form of a ladder for boarding the bow on the bow stop.
Put slicks on about the front 1/3 of the trailer. Be sure and strap the stern, and have a hold down chain or turnbuckle for the bow eye as well as the winch strap.
cmetzenberg
New member
i'll forward this link on to my trailer guy. I was quoted 7100 for a galvanized trailer with galvanized drum brakes and a ladder.
Bob Austin,
Would you be able to provide the distance between the front stop and the forward end of your bunks? I suspect my trailer was built with the bunks too close to the front stop and causes a tremendous wear on the knife-edge of the sponsons.
I am thinking of cutting off 12" off the front end of bunks but wanted verify your dimensions first.
George
Would you be able to provide the distance between the front stop and the forward end of your bunks? I suspect my trailer was built with the bunks too close to the front stop and causes a tremendous wear on the knife-edge of the sponsons.
I am thinking of cutting off 12" off the front end of bunks but wanted verify your dimensions first.
George
For reference, I paid a little over $9k for my Float-on. That was with electric over hydraulic disk brakes (Kodiak Cadmium coated) and a spare 8 lug 16" tire and hub mount. The weight difference between the aluminum and a corresponding galvanized trailer was substantial (if I recall about 800-1000lbs). The extra weight of the galvanized trailer would have put me over my tow capacity.redbaronace":tcbnsl46 said:
cmetzenberg
New member
buying an old chevy 3500 89 pick up. I don't normally tow very far maybe 40 miles in a day. So i'm not thrilled about the weight and fuel economy but i can deal with it. Also i'm going with a 3 axle trailer. Curious as what scuffing you are talking about thataway? Is the double axle that much more preferable, the cost is about the same.
cmetzenberg
New member
I'm going to try and see if we can engineer on an extendable tongue to try and keep the stored length of the entire package at ~30'. Maybe i'm dreaming on this one but it sure would save me money on storage fees.
gulfcoast john
New member
Agree, you're dreaming. The 255 is over 30 ft with engines down on my rig.
Per my trailer guy, the physics precludes extending the tongue any even with a fixed tongue.
Triple axles can lower your rig hgt a bit, but my 11'6" (no radar but with RV AC) is well under the federal 13'6" standard. Downside more tire 'scuffing' in cornering turns (physics); when (not if) you have a blowout ALL TIRES ON THAT SIDE must be replaced as they were overloaded with probable structural damage.
Under certain conditions with torsion axles (highly rec'd over springs) one of two axles may be required to bear 100% of the load briefly...but if one of THREE axles is required to bear 100% of the load even briefly that's much worse (sharp uphill turn over railroad tracks etc).
Forget drum brakes, you can't clean them properly esp with saltwater exposure.
Get stainless rotors or at least Kodiak cadmium.
You are now north of $8000...
My 2010 came with a 2006 EZ loader...cost me over $4000 to bring it up to my trailer guys standards...should have got the FLOAT ON for $9500 and been done with it. But NOBODY is ever in the market for a used trailer for a 255.
When it's time to replace the entire light wiring harness (every 2 years or so in saltwater) highly recommend Grote Ultimate LED kit custom made for West Marine by the commercial truck lighting experts...$200 but 10 times better quality.
Best of luck and happy boating!
Cheers!
John
Per my trailer guy, the physics precludes extending the tongue any even with a fixed tongue.
Triple axles can lower your rig hgt a bit, but my 11'6" (no radar but with RV AC) is well under the federal 13'6" standard. Downside more tire 'scuffing' in cornering turns (physics); when (not if) you have a blowout ALL TIRES ON THAT SIDE must be replaced as they were overloaded with probable structural damage.
Under certain conditions with torsion axles (highly rec'd over springs) one of two axles may be required to bear 100% of the load briefly...but if one of THREE axles is required to bear 100% of the load even briefly that's much worse (sharp uphill turn over railroad tracks etc).
Forget drum brakes, you can't clean them properly esp with saltwater exposure.
Get stainless rotors or at least Kodiak cadmium.
You are now north of $8000...
My 2010 came with a 2006 EZ loader...cost me over $4000 to bring it up to my trailer guys standards...should have got the FLOAT ON for $9500 and been done with it. But NOBODY is ever in the market for a used trailer for a 255.
When it's time to replace the entire light wiring harness (every 2 years or so in saltwater) highly recommend Grote Ultimate LED kit custom made for West Marine by the commercial truck lighting experts...$200 but 10 times better quality.
Best of luck and happy boating!
Cheers!
John
cmetzenberg
New member
I would have been in the market!!!lol. Good advice. I have bids with disk brakes and torsion axles for 8100. As for the 30' i'll dismiss that fantasy immediately, under 35 would be great though.gulfcoast john":3isxof3z said:
Bad Boy, I sold the Tom Cat and Trailer about 3 years ago to Captain Charlie--and he has recently sold it--so I cannot give you any measurements.
You really want disc brakes--electric over hydraulic is best, for proper braking.
To start with the Tom Cat 255, has the 2' platform, with motors beyond that, then the trailer tongue, after the frame--my recollection is that the Tom Cat on the trailer was about 37 feet. Includes motors in trailer position to the tip of the coupler.
Many trucks need a weight equalizing hitch when you get up close to 10,000 lbs. I towed my C Dory 25 for about 7,000 miles, and the tires were shot. Changed to radial tires, equalizing hitch, and made sure that the trailer was absolutely level, and the next set of tires had over 10,000 miles with no serious wear pattern. Boat towed better with equalizing hitch. I offered it to Capt Charlie when he bought the Tom Cat--later he noted that he should have taken it.
You do not want any collapsable type of tongue--you can have an extension made for launching at a very shallow ramp. Most all of the ramps in S. Calif. will handle the standard trailer.
Scuffing is what occurs as you turn a more than one axle trailer. The trailer will roll with the turn, but any other tires will slide sideways, and "scuff" the trailer tires--hard on side walls. I have owned one triple axle trailer, and a number of tandem axle--the tandem were easier to turn and park in close quarters.
Again, recollection--but I believe my Float On trailer in 2006 was $8500.
You really want disc brakes--electric over hydraulic is best, for proper braking.
To start with the Tom Cat 255, has the 2' platform, with motors beyond that, then the trailer tongue, after the frame--my recollection is that the Tom Cat on the trailer was about 37 feet. Includes motors in trailer position to the tip of the coupler.
Many trucks need a weight equalizing hitch when you get up close to 10,000 lbs. I towed my C Dory 25 for about 7,000 miles, and the tires were shot. Changed to radial tires, equalizing hitch, and made sure that the trailer was absolutely level, and the next set of tires had over 10,000 miles with no serious wear pattern. Boat towed better with equalizing hitch. I offered it to Capt Charlie when he bought the Tom Cat--later he noted that he should have taken it.
You do not want any collapsable type of tongue--you can have an extension made for launching at a very shallow ramp. Most all of the ramps in S. Calif. will handle the standard trailer.
Scuffing is what occurs as you turn a more than one axle trailer. The trailer will roll with the turn, but any other tires will slide sideways, and "scuff" the trailer tires--hard on side walls. I have owned one triple axle trailer, and a number of tandem axle--the tandem were easier to turn and park in close quarters.
Again, recollection--but I believe my Float On trailer in 2006 was $8500.
Captains Cat
New member
Dr. Bob has good recollection! I had two Tomcats at one time :roll: on the two different trailers and have some pictures of them alongside one another. I'll dig them out and post one here on an edit. IMHO, the Float on Aluminum one was far easier to get boat on and off than the galvanized EZ loader. In either case, slicks on the bunks made a lot of difference. If it doesn't go all the way on, you can pull out on level ground and "bump" it forward by braking hard. Winching is very hard on level ground, out of the water.
trouble posting pix, don't know what I'm doing wrong. They are in my album under the folder TUCats!
The surge brakes worked fine on long tows as long as it was balanced (level) too much load on front end causes blowouts! Don't ask me how I know.
trouble posting pix, don't know what I'm doing wrong. They are in my album under the folder TUCats!
The surge brakes worked fine on long tows as long as it was balanced (level) too much load on front end causes blowouts! Don't ask me how I know.
cmetzenberg
New member
Looks like i can get a decent deal on a majic tilt welded aluminium trailer. I'll stay away from drum brakes, triple axles and leaf springs as per everyones advice. It looks like i've been getting lots of quotes for surge brakes instead of an electric over hydraulic system. I don't do very much mountain driving at all. Your guys thoughts?
I had surge on my trailer for my former 22. I went with electric over hydraulic on the Tomcat trailer. The difference is night and day, the electric over hydraulic is a much better braking system even on flat ground. With a good brake controller, you can control both the rapidity and strength of the brakes.