Battery / switch system upgrade log

It would be interesting to know why Blue Seas feels that there is no longer a danger of diode destruction due to unregulated output?

Blue Seas sells at least two manual switches with AFD, and many of the other large battery switches have make before break switching of the major terminals, avoiding the necessity of an AFD.

However, with the VSR, the engine output is directly sent to a battery (maybe thru a switch) and the relay does not close, to charge the second battery until voltage indicates that the first--usually starting battery--is well into being charged (voltage of 13,8). It does not open the second battery switch, until the battery voltage drops to 12.7--and there is no charging.

The 1/2/all/off type os switch is for manual control, and total disconnect when you leave the boat (except for the auto bilge pump). When running with this type of switch, you will normally run on "1", which is the starting battery, and use the VSR to charge the house battery.
 
Here's a drawing of the wiring scheme I'm planning:

wiring.jpg


Adding all these breakers drives the cost up quite a bit!
 
thataway":ivm484hd said:
It would be interesting to know why Blue Seas feels that there is no longer a danger of diode destruction due to unregulated output?
Click to expand...

The Suzuki dealer I spoke with didn't think AFD was necessary either. Protection is built into the motor? If that's the case it's certainly more user friendly.

The Blue Sea AFD wiring diagrams show an extra lead going to the regulator. If I had an AFD type switch I'm not sure there would be a place for the AFD lead to go.
 
Here's an alternate schematic. Since I'm using breakers at the batteries, I think I can just piggyback the AFD on the switch terminals and use the breakers in lieu of fuses:

wiring2.sized.jpg
 
Here's how I ended up wiring things together. I spoke to an engineer at Blue Sea (located in Bellingham) and he, as well as a guy at Fisheries Supply (awesome store) recommended not using extra breakers, especially when they would/could carry starting current.

wiring_001.jpg

I installed the breakers (Blue Sea 7720) adjacent to each battery, and connecting them to the ACR, using 6AWG.
 
Nice graphic Ferret. Yes, your project looks very similar to what I ended up with. Since I had already purchased 4 AWG cable for the ACR to battery terminals, the Blue Seas rep suggested I use 80A fuses. He also suggested I use terminal fuses, which fit in perfectly with my project goal since one of my goals was to clean up the terminals. Those are pretty cool gizmos, they attach to the battery post with it's own separate fuse block so that it keeps the terminals clean and tidy.

My install went well after thoroughly researching and thanks to the advice you, Dr. Bob and others shared.

Peter aka Jazzmanic
C-Dancer - 2005 22' Cruiser
 
Interesting. I didn't even notice the terminal fuses, but they definitely would have saved me some space in the compartments. Do you have any sort of fuse somewhere between the batteries and the motor? Or are you just protecting the ACR bridge?

How do you cover your battery terminals with those installed? Boots? Battery box? Could you snap a picture of your install if you get a chance?
 
f30,

Yes, the fuse block and terminal fuse protected the circuit from the ACR for both positive leads to each battery. They also come with their neat little cable cap as well.

Here's a pic:
5191_182x182.jpg


As for the battery terminals, I bought single Blue Seas cable caps but think I may need to exchange those for the dual-entry caps since all of the terminals have at least two cables connected to each.

I have these:
4005-4006-9038-9041_182x182.jpg

Thinking of changing to these:
4003_182x182.jpg

If I get back to the boat this weekend, I'l take some pics. I'm thinking of going to the Fisherman's Terminal gathering and there, we can compare notes.


Peter
 
I have the same ones you do. The problem with the second ones you posted (I think) will be that they will only cover the threaded post. The larger clamp on posts will be exposed (assuming your batteries have marine and automotive posts like mine).
 
Not to rain on your parade but to caution others- from what I've read and from what marine mechanics have told me, the so called dual purpose batteries are not what they're cracked up to be. Much like so called "all season tires" - they do not do both jobs as well as their dedicated, single purpose counterpart. A marine starting battery should be designed and used for that purpose only. Disconncting it should be the first thing you do after anchoring and reconnecting it should be the last thing you do before restarting. The service life of a true deep cycle battery is calculated based on the # of cycles it can withstand, taking into account the % of discharge and the charger ( its quality, capacity and whether it can be programed to match the bank). If a deep cycle battery is used for starting purposes it can damage your starter and if a starting battery is cycled too often or too deeply you will be the proud owner of a group 27 box anchor!! Also, any wiring done on a boat must conform to abyc code or it can void your insurance policy. Good luck with your project. Regards Rob
 
After speaking with a few boat mechanics and Blue Sea, I do not see a problem. With this type of switch the batteries are always isolated, dedicated to different circuits. My house loads will never be draining the start battery. Do whatever you wish but from my research this it's a simple and reliable setup.
 
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