Barkely Sound

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El and Bill

New member
How about some information about Barkely Sound, out on the west side of Vancouver Island, from any of you who have cruised out thataway? Launch at Ucluelet? Special anchorages? Any problem areas or special sights to see? Do you burn out brakes coming down some of the steep grades to Port Alberni? Anyone launch at Port Alberni? Have any gone around the outside up to Nootka Sound from Barkely? We have heard good things about the area and are looking for more personal information. Thanks
 
El and Bill":2br1aes7 said:
How about some information about Barkely Sound, out on the west side of Vancouver Island, from any of you who have cruised out thataway?
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One major grade approaching Alberni from the E side of Vancouver Island, much used by all sorts of traffic. Launching at Alberni leaves you with a 30+ mile run down Alberni Inlet to the good stuff, but would definitely be my preferred choice over launching at Bamfield (50 miles of logging road from Alberni). Bamfield is probably the "home port" of choice in Barkley Sound, for its rustic charm, services, and quick access to excellent fishing.

No experience with the Ucluelet access, although to get to the islands you have to run a larger channel than from Bamfield. For access to that side of BS, if your rig can handle 10-11 miles of rough logging road, Toquart Bay (N end of BS) has a popular campground (few services and no potable water), good ramp, and float for protected mooring behind a floating breakwater (new in 2005). I've used this launch area for sea kayaking maybe a dozen times, and it is a sweet access for small boats.

What to see, where to go? Two principal island groupings: Broken Group and Deer Group, the former on the N side of BS, and the latter near Bamfield. BG may be a challenge for most cruisers unless you stick to the main channels, while the DG is a paradise. Port Alberni Yacht Club maintains a summer operation on floats in Robbers Passage with free water, showers (small fee), and a very nice picnic spot. Moorage fees seemed reasonable, though there are numerous coves for anchoring. In the DG, the "outer" coast of these islands is spectacular.

One downside: there are some bottom fishing closures here and there to rehab depleted stocks.

Effingham Bay in the BG is a very sheltered, primo anchorage, much used by coastwise cruisers and sailors. good beach adjacent on Gilbert, with a composting toilet for those who gotta go! Turtle Bay (between Dodd and Willis) is another good BG anchorage -- but trickier to enter. Lotta cool beaches in the BG, fewer in the DG. Many sea kayakers in the BG, but fewer in the DG.

BTW, many hardy folks in small boats shoot across from Neah Bay when conditions are right, avoiding the ferry hassle and expense. Serious water. Straits of Juan de Fuca is an outflow/inflow wind tunnel -- beware!

Another caveat: even though BS has a lot of "protected" waters, summer storms can bring gales and last for a couple days. Even the big boys hole up for that stuff.

I think you would find it a paradise ... and don't miss the Boardwalk at Bamfield -- we love Bamfield!
 
I plan on boating there for a week in July. Here's info on a company that produces fishing maps. They offer a good fishing map of Barkley Sound which is a great one page overview of it.

http://www.fishnmap.com/

I believe, at this time you can't legally boat from Neah Bay, WA directly to Bamfield in Barkley Sound because there is no CBSA office there. I believe the closest one that recreational boaters can use is Victoria.
 
El and Bill,
I do a long fishing trip out of Ulcuelet every summer. I take a slide-in truck camper and tow my C-Dory behind. So I am fully loaded and don't have any problems with the roads. The section from Port Alberni to Ucluelet is narrow and winding, but you just have to take it easy and slow down. I launch at Island West Resort which is the only real place to launch. Since I stay in the campground and rent dock space I haven't done any overnight cruising in the area. Another place to consider, might be Tofino especially if you wanted to try for Nootka Sound. Big open water around the outside. All the major sounds along the west coast of Vancouver Island are accessible from small towns inland without braving the open waters along the coast. Beauty of a trailer boat.
 
Probably one of the nicest places around. Snoopy-C and 2 other boats have been doing the Barkley Sound for about the last 6 years. We've launched at Port Alberni and boated down to Bamfield, and/or Ucluelet 5 of the times, and launched at the same place CAVU stated at Ucluelet. The marina a Ucluelet is quite crowded, and the launch quite steep. On the other hand, launching at Port Alberni and traveling the length of the inlet is much more to my liking, more relaxed, and wonderful scenery. The Lady Rose and a sistership are passenger ferries that take the same trip daily. My choice for relaxation is Bamfield. It is quite quaint, and I'm sure you'd enjoy it greatly, and you'd do great justice in writing about the trip. There is also a camp area to the port side of the entry to Bamfield in a protected inlet. Within the Broken Island Group there are countless areas where you could anchor and spend relaxing evenings. The shoreline is full of caves and small sandy beaches that kayakers camp on and enjoy. There are also several "boat-only" resorts where you could stay if you need to enjoin the local vacationers........overall the most pleasant area I've ever had occasion to visit. Tofino and Port Hardy are great fishing areas, but experience extensive tourism. I prefer the quieter, more remote areas. There are books on Vancouver Island that you could get that give you the low-down on the area. I'm sure you'd never forget that entire island area. You will most likely get a multitude of response on this thread.

Regards,
Ron (aka Digger) on Snoopy-C
 
This is an area (West Coast of Vancouver Island) that we've frequented for many years. We trailer from Port Alberni to Ucuelet/Tofino. As Ken said, it is winding and narrow. We do it with a loaded 25 (7500 lbs) behind our Expedition, so I don't think you'd have a problem with a your 22 and pickup. The advantage of doing it this way is that you can put in at Ucluelet (great municipal marina) and do all of Barkley Sound, then load your boat back up and drive 20 miles north to Tofino and Clayoquot Sound.

It is about 20 miles across to Bamfield from Ucluelet. The Broken Island Group lies between the two towns and is a great place to explore. The Broken Group will be crowded in summer with kayakers and small boaters because of all of the sheltered water. Bamfield is quaint and beautiful. It will be somewhat crowded with sport fishermen until the end of August.

After you have explored Barkley and the Broken Group you can load up the boat in Ucluelet and drive 20 miles north to Tofino. There are 20 miles of beautiful beaches in the National Park between Ucluelet and Tofino to visit. Tofino is a full blown tourist town. It's fun though. There's a lively "youth culture" and better restaurants than you will find in many big cities. We like it because once you are on the water you can be away from all of that and anchored in a quiet cove within a 1/2 hour. Clayoquot Sound is as big as Barkley Sound (20 miles across) and seems quieter to us even though it's next to the tourist areas of Tofino.

If you want to continue to explore to the north you can go to Hesquiat Bay above Clayoquot Sound and then out into the open around the corner into Nootka Sound.

As Astoria Dave said, summer storms can blow up, but you can get to protection quickly, and can tie up at the public marina in Tofino or Ucluelet to ride out any storms in comfort.

We love this area and we hope that you get a chance to spend some extended time there.
Lyle
 
El and Bill -

What they all said!! It's our favorite area of all -- been doing it for many years and go back whenever possible. I usually go outside from Deception Pass to Oak Bay, clear, then spend the night at some cool little harbor or anchor and leave early. Bamfield by noon.

We have done the Port Alberni launch and boat to Bamfield many times - works great if the fishing nets aren't out. DON'T drive to Bamfield unless you carry a spare windshield. Huge trucks, gravel, and not recommended. Love Bamfield, but I'd rather go by water. As Lyle and all the other Brats have said, the trip from Port Alberni to Ucleulet is slow but easy. It's getting pretty touristy, but good campgrounds and a couple of really nice launch areas. Spend a couple of years and enjoy!!

The further north you cruise on the west coast of Vancouver Island the more you will appreciate the beauty. Guaranteed!!! We are like Lyle and Shelley -- no such thing as enough of that wonderful area!!

Best,

Dusty
 
There is a thread some ways back about this too, maybe a year or two ago, as I was asking why nobody, except Dusty, seems to be willing to go around the corner from Victoria. There is a fair bit of info in that thread. This is a place I really want to see too, has been on my "must-see" list since I first heard Bess-C talking about it. If I were taking a week, which I just might (what potential time frame are you thinking about being on the WCVI? I know your plans are always fluid and subject to change), we would probably be coming on the water from Bellingham, down to Anacortes, down Rosario Strait and around the south end of Lopez and San Juan Island, across Haro Strait over to Victoria, stay the night at Oak Bay, and then an early morning run to Bamfield. I know Rosario and Haro pretty well, and although they can kick up, getting to Oak Bay does not concern me in the least. We have been in Juan de Fuca a couple of times, once for a run over to Victoria in ideal conditions, once from Sequim back to Everett in less than ideal conditions, but we never felt unsafe, just a bit uncomfortable. Dusty says watch the forecast, and run from Oak Bay to Bamfield in the early morning. Again, WHY is everyone so afraid of doing this? It seems way more logical than the (very expensive) BC ferry system, bad roads and crowded marinas I am reading about here...
 
Pat,

Oak Bay is a great RON spot but it's much better IMO to go on to Sooke. Be sure you have a local large scale chart. My goal - usually not met - is to get up at ohh-dark-thirty and take advantage of the morning calm. It is usually flat water and a beautiful run. West Coast Van weather can make up fast, so look the weather over carefully before leaving. There are MANY great weather aids available now. Before all of these cool electronic toys I'd just stay on the 10-20 fathom curve all the way up and see Bamfield before noon.

Once leaving Sooke there are very few places to hide -- my favorite is Port San Juan, but here again local knowledge is a must. If you want planning material I'd be happy to share my library. I try to read everything published on the Vancouver Island west coast.

I'd recommend taking a buddy boat for your first trip. Also, with a buddy boat, I'd look at crossing from Neah Bay as an option. I think that you can now clear customs at Bamfield, but not sure.

Dusty
 
Great information, folks -- we ran a search using Barkely on the site and found little, although you're right, Pat, somewhere there was a former discussion because I copied some comments from Lyle (Bess-C) and from Ron on Snoopy-C into a word document about the Sound.

Sure appreciate the info and the suggested further reading and sites -- and any further posts to give us background. Looks like a great cruising ground (and fishing) and we are thinking of adding it to the summer's cruising in the NW.
 
El & Bill,
There is an absolutely fantastic guide for this area that we have used. It is "Exploring Vancouver Island's West Coast" by Don & Reanne Douglas. They give information about most of the good anchorages in Barkley and Clayoquot Sounds. They are so detailed that they give both entrance GPS coordinates to the cove and GPS coordinates for the best anchoring spots in each cove. We read other guides to the area, but they are our bible for anchoring out on the West Coast.

We've used their guide to find the 20 foot wide entrance to a secluded cove in a blinding rainstorm. We couldn't see it until we were a few feet away. We would have never known that it existed without their book.

I like Pat's idea of running to this area on the water. However, for us part of the fun is having a vehicle there so that we can explore the beaches on the peninsula. We combine restaurant stops, beach trips and native art gallery stops with our boating.
Lyle
 
Lyle --
Great suggestion -- we listened to the seminar the Douglass' had at the Seattle Boat Show, took copious notes, and they are great speakers (and writers). We used their books heading up to Alaska a few years ago and will surely be looking into their West Coast cruising guide. Thanks
 
Hello Dusty, Thanks for the post info. on Barkley Sound,via different routs etc. I have done alot of fishing at Sequ. (Not far from Neah bay) I always look at Vancover Is. alot when I'm out on the water. Dreaming of course. At the Seattle Boat show this year I kept my ears open for information on Barkley Sound too. Another dream to fish there. Since I have a 22 Angler also I thought I would just put the bug in your ear to try to plan a trip with a few others interested this summer , to follow you across the waters from Deception Pass area over.. (I hope Patty reads this so she will feel sorry for me that I didn't purchase my C.D. coat and she will lend me hers for the trip!) Private joke between us. I myself wouldn't want to attempt it alone, but how awesome if a some of us had an experienced guide.
 
It is always good to have a buddy boat along. And the more the better... I'm not sure about the coming summer, but will sure keep it iin mind.

Sekiu is one of my favorite fishing areas. As a youngster I went to school at Joyce for a couple of years, and my uncle was lighthouse keeper at Tatoosh -- so I was able to spend a lot of growing up time fishing that area.

Let's keep in touch - the trip up the Vancouver Island coast may be a possibility.

Best.

Dusty
 
Hello again. Next year might be better for me too.( Just bought an espresso stand today!) It "will" interfere with my fishing and travel for a little while. But by spring/ summer it could also be possible.
That was so interesting about your earlier fishing days at Seqiu. It is a fun place to fish. A couple years ago I was their for Sequi Days in July and just for the heck of it entered that "cribbage tournamet". I could hardly believe it when I came in first place! My name was even in their newspaper too boot! . This past year I came in next to last place in the tournament.. I guess its like fishing.Some days are better than others!
I've never been to Tatoosh that I know of. Heard of it. How interesting to have an uncle work as a lighthouse keeper. (I remember a field trip to the Mukilteo/Everett lighthouse in Bluebirds as a kid.) Not just anybody could handle that job! :smilep .
When I think of Joyce I think of that little restaurant there right off the highway. Pretty good food.
I have a question. When leaving for a trip by water for a few days. Has your trailer always been safe? I just bought a new one this year and can't imagin the "pain" one would have, :cry only to return and have your trailer stolen or damaged.
 
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