Bad day at launch

L

Larry Patrick

New member
Put the boat in Erie in the rain Friday. First as I was putting up the bimini frame the forward piece that swings squashed my finger tip,probablly lose nail all black now. Second thing after wife backs me in water ,I start engine before launching ,she leaves steering not working correctly. Turn wheel 5xs the usual amount to get what usually is 1 time. Hard time turning around and getting to wet slip .When I get to my channel, steering stops all together,can spin the wheel same direction over and over. Wind is trying to blow me into rock jetty. Was ready to drop anchor ,but kept lowering and raising outboard turning wheel,finally a little steering and limped into slip.Talked with Anchor Marine and others ,no one can help till after Memorial day too busy. Called Marc Grove ,he told me to get some Telaflex oil .Took knob off and added oil at helm,turning wheel back and forth,seems like it worked. But inside wall of berth oil was dripping from round canister looking thing behind steering wheel. I see a gasket there looks like a lot of work to change it? I will try and tighten Allen screws, Hope that works. Wondering if boat is useable since dripping stopped and steering is working? Wonder if that's the high point and enough fluid remains in system to safely use? Next trip will start motor and turn it on and off for 15 minutes before going out,will have oil on hand. Appreciate any advise.
 
Larry, chances are the fill nut was loose, or one of the lines to the engine cylinder is loose (check your v berth upholstery). Worst case, the pump is shot.

Find what's loose, then you will probably need to bleed the system. Boris has a great post on it. I will try and find it and insert a link. BTW, the alternative hydraulic fluid that Telefex mentions is much less expensive then the branded stuff. I believe it's mil-spec 5606. It does have a red dye, but it's basically the same stuff.

Steve

Edit: here's a link to a thread that has Boris' advice on bleeding the system, plus comments on 5606.

If it's a loose hose fitting, check your literature on what 'goo' to use if just tightening doesn't fix things. Going from memory here, but it seemed that they recommended a special product that you can get at an auto parts store.

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=23370
 
You can get the hydraulic fluid at most fixed base operators at general aviation fields.

Agree with Steve, that you need to bleed the system before using the boat.

For fittings which are going to carry most fluids and there is an issue with threads, often Permatex "Form A Gasket" #2 (slow hardening--stays slightly soft), will take care of the problem. Appreciated for aviation hydraulic systems.
 
This is a good reminder for people getting their boats wet for the first time in the spring. You should check through all major systems to see if there are problems. The electrical system is important, but if the boat starts, you're okay. Then check steering, dewatering (pumps), and if you have a kicker (a good idea for single engine boats) check that over too, as it is both your backup propusion and your backup steering.

For those with hydraulic steering, it is a great idea to familiarize yourself with filling and bleeding before it is necessary. This can come up while you are out there, and it's not that difficult if you have the right stuff with you and know what to do. It can be very challenging figuring it out on a disabled boat.

Have fun!
 
Kushtaka":x2ggu36b said:
This is a good reminder for people getting their boats wet for the first time in the spring. You should check through all major systems to see if there are problems. The electrical system is important, but if the boat starts, you're okay. Then check steering, dewatering (pumps), and if you have a kicker (a good idea for single engine boats) check that over too, as it is both your backup propusion and your backup steering.

For those with hydraulic steering, it is a great idea to familiarize yourself with filling and bleeding before it is necessary. This can come up while you are out there, and it's not that difficult if you have the right stuff with you and know what to do. It can be very challenging figuring it out on a disabled boat.

Have fun!
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Agreed. And always, always check for steering before backing off of a trailer or pushing away from a dock. I learned this the hard way when my cable steering temporarily seized on my previous 22. Now I always give the wheel a spin or two in both directions prior to pulling off the trailer or pulling away from the dock.
 
Even if it has only been a month or so, we always start and check all systems at home, including engine start, fluids, batteries, steering, pumps, all switches, etc before heading to the launch ramp. Same after a long trailering trip--start on land if possible (of course have to have water for the engine cooling).
 
Here's a thread with information on how to bleed the hydraulic steering.

Mil-H-83282 is the hydraulic fluid used in the Teleflex/Seastar steering. It is available at any airport at a airplane supply company. Teleflex buy/sells it without the dye. Easier to spot a leak with dye, as you've found.

Boris
 
Thanks for the links to info and advice. Was around $33 for a quart of expensive stuff,at that point its all they had, didn't want to shop around, if not late in day prefer to get no name brand. Was wondering if rescue tape might seal gasket until I can get it over to a mechanic,they wont come to our marina ,but said they would fix it at their marina a few miles away by boat,already brought trailer home.
 
It certainly does make for a bad day when you loose your steering! I had an overheat alarm come on 1 day after leaving the ramp. Since then I always leave my fenders and dock lines deployed until out of the marina. Also keep a boat hook/pole handy to fend off if necessary. Returning I deploy them again before entering the marina.

Regards, Rob
 
I am not entirely sure where it is leaking--is it still leaking without turning the wheel? Does it leak when you turn the wheel now? Sometimes fluid can leak from the front of the helm, and then run thru the bulkhead, so it appears as if there is a leak on the back side.

No rescue tape will not help in this type of problem. There are times, when rescue tape might help, if there is a cut in the tubing--but even then, would put a hose clamp over the rescue tape which I would put over the tape. Hydraulic steering tubing can develop pressure in the hundreds of lbs/per square inch. The tape alone is too elastic.
 
Both I and wife looked at leak,seems like the seem where gasket is in berth behind helm.The round cyclinder,dont know name? Just leaked for a while after adding fluid dripped from there I think.I checked steering before launching and started motor,Weffings greased steering so I just figured it was turning more easily. Next time will have a paddle and extra long boat hook. Calling a few more marinas ,maybee someone will do a housecall.
 
Do you have a secondary motor that can be steered independently (a kicker)? Using the kicker to motor a few miles to the other marina shouldn't be a problem, assuming fair weather/water conditions.
 
A LOT of commercial fishermen using older boats simply keep a tube attached to their helm fill with a funnel tied up near the roof and keep fluid in it, so if there is a leak the missing fluid gets replaced as it leaks. This doesn't address the issue, but you can absolutely fill your steering back up, bleed it out, and use this system to get to your repair facility. Or just putt there on your kicker.
 
hardee":3j9dlpy9 said:
Or, with twin engines, you could get by WITHOUT a steering wheel. 8) :lol:

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

JC_Lately_SleepyC_Flat_Blue_055.highlight.jpg
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Sometimes. I've had my twins refuse to move due to a bad cylinder, and were turned hard over. That was exceedingly difficult to control. Also, your engines can get all floppy without hydraulic pressure, so if you have no means of holding them centered, or nearly so, splitting throttle to steer is much less effective. I've seen boats that have a device mounted on their transom to hold the motors in the center without steering pressure. It just hooked onto the tie bar and was neat, but a one-off fabrication. Good idea though, and good forethought. With that thing you could drain all the fluid and steer with throttle all day long and hardly lose any control.
 
Duct tape and a boat hook, uncouple the tiller arm of the motor! Whatever it takes in an emergency. Also a good reason to have at least a minimal tool kit, and....Duct Tape!
 
No kicker motor,wish I had one that day. If I even had a paddle could have made it into slip,instead of floating around for half an hour or so. I have Boat US ,incase we break down out in the lake. Also going to add my Obrien pull behind tube to the boat ,will store it inflated somewhere. Since we don't have a dingy yet. The two of us could sit on it if boat fire ect. I invested in ACR plb, floating marine radio with weather alert. . Now that im seeing unexpected things occurring. If I cant get a house call will take boat few miles to repair center.
 
At Everett on day I talked to a couple who came back from Friday Harbor, with twins and trim tabs and no steering. The wheel would spin in either direction with no effect at the OB's. They were able to manually center them and then tied them off with a dock line and made the trip which must be about 45-50 miles. They did say it was good that the Juan de was pretty flat that day.


As to having a paddle. I would consider it part of my safety gear, and have had one on board since the first time I left the dock.

Harvey
SleepyC:moon

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About that paddle.

On my 20 ft Bartender, I twice used the pair of 10 ft (yes, ten feet long) oars to slowly move to safety in a failed engine situation. One oar, or one paddle, is only good for rotating the boat. It will not move the boat in a desired direction unless the wind is zero and you can rapidly scoot back and forth across the boat to alternate sides. The J-stroke on a 20 ft or larger OB equipped boat turns into all correction and little propulsion. We found we could get 1.5 knots, max, pulling for all we were worth, standing or sitting, in calm conditions with those 10 ft oars.

In the usual 10 knot breezes on my home waters, the oars would help us pick which downwind beach the wind would drive us onto, and also which pointy end would hit the beach first. Get us upwind? That is to laugh! Across the wind? Yup, some.

The paddle will work if it is fourfold, with four burly Samoans to operate it (them).
 
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