Attaching metal racks to roof rails

W

wapiti

New member
Folks;
I am looking for some sort of metal device that will allow me to attache a metal roof rack to the roof rails on a C-Dory 22' angler. I have seen the plastic/hose clamp attachments and cou;ld possibly make metal ones that would be similiar to the plastics, except I am not sure whether I like the look of 8 hose clamps on the roof rails. Instead I am looking for some clam like fasteners. Any suggestions?
wapiti
 
For a somewhat homier look (read: cheaper...and disposable), I fabricated a rack with uprights from 2x4 and plywood. The 2x4's were drilled to accommodate the roof rail diameter (1" ?), then ripped and drilled for a SS bolt on each side of the roof rail. Worked like a charm - but Sandy didn't particularly like it (...wasn't made by a reputable furniture maker, or cost $2K). Oh well ... it worked, and very well I might add.

I even gave it a couple coats of paint it to match the boat color. ...sort of an 'old World craftsman Touch ( the Casey version...).

Best,
Casey
 
If the stainless U-Bolts won't work for you and/or you're sure you want to keep the rack on indefinitely, and it won't detract from the resale value if you want to trade off the boat later, you can drill down through the rack and the roof rails where they meet and just use stainless machine screws with locking stainless Nylock nuts and some SS washers to through-bolt them together neatly. Cut off the excess bolt threads to eliminate any "meat hooks". I'd do the same if using U-Bolts. A professional railmaker could weld the two together neatly for you, too.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
cemiii":377nujue said:
Or, if you're made of money, here are some really fancy pants clamps at bottom of page!

http://www.edsonmarine.com/marinestore/ ... Path=87_99
Click to expand...

And if you've got the opposite type of problems, moneywise, you an use stainless steel radiator clamps, hiding the screw tighteners as best can out of sight, and trimming the excess strap material down neatly and sanding down any sharp corners.

(ALL SAILING HARDWARE IS PRETTY EXPENSIVE, BUT EDSON'S APPROACH IS THAT OF A HOWITZER AIMED RIGHT AT YOUR POCKETBOOK!) :hug :cry :hug2

JOE. :teeth :thup
 
Thanks for your hints and help. I like the stainless u-bolt suggestion, as I don't want to permanently mount my rack on the roof rails.
wapiti
 
I put a Thule roof rack on Fan-C-Dory. Just clamps to the rail, using the rubber lined gutter clamps. You know - cars & trucks used to have these things along the roof to keep water from running in your door when opened, the rack was made to attach to those -called "gutters". :) Mine is presently adjusted to the Port side so the canoe/kayak clears the A/C, if I put the inflatable on, I'll center it, then it Will hold the inflatable above the A/C.

I know how to email pictures.
 
If you look in my Swee Pea album page six, you can see how I secured an older Yakima rack to the handrails. I looked for clamps like you are, but some were ugly, others priced 'outa sight. This worked like a charm and are STURDY! I will bet you can find some on Ebay cheap.

John
Swee Pea
 
Thanks to persistance, input from another Brat (Sweat Pea), patient sales staff, and a good return policy at REI, I was able to find the pieces from Thule to put a nice "factory" rack on our 25 cruiser. It attaches with clips to the roof mounted hand rails and big rubber feet sit near the edge of the roof and support the actual load weight. This rack is rated to hold about 200 lbs and I have used them to carry up to 3 18ft kayaks at 70+ mph for literally thousands of miles on cars over the years. They are sturdy and under rated. I know folks who have hauled over 400lbs without incident on these types of racks. It may fit other models of C-Dory but I cannot promise that.

Yakima also has similar components that can work but they use round bars for cross bars typically and that allows for an annoying rotation of your kayak saddles or other rack components when you need them to stay put.

Here is what you need to purchase:

1 set (4) of 400XTR feet and 53 (inch) Rapid bars or longer.
(they make a 47 that might work but would be pushing it)

or

1 set (4) 400XT feet with 50 (inch) Square bars or longer (I used these with a 58 inch bar)

1 Clip Kit #191 which is made for a 1992 Izuzu Trooper but near perfectly meets the dimensional needs for a roof/rail mount on a CD 25. This piece was the tough one to find becuase the clips are all made for cars so you have to cut open boxes and examine them for yourself. IT comes with bar caps for the square bars so don't buy a separate package of them.

I found that 8 1/2 inch rear and 8 1/4 inch front bar overhangs were about right to position the feet on the roof and have the clips grab the rails well using 58in square bars. This was measured on the top of the bar from end to outside edge of the foot bracket.

Add 4 lock cores if you want to lock it on the roof and then just add the bike, boat, cargo, ski? attachments that meet your needs.

$160-165 for the feet
$70 for the fit kit
$70+ for bars
$55 for locks

add rack attachments.............not cheap but very sturdy, flexible, lockable, and removeable with no hole drilling required.
 
I have always been a fan of installing the basket carriers on boats. They are cheaper than crossbars/towers etc..., they come with all the mounting brackets to attach them to the bars on the Dory, you can throw all your stuff up there to get it out of the way and they still work nicely as a roof rack to strap down your canoe or whatever needs roof racking. (i put a bike mount on mine for a little mobility on longer river trips.
 
Back
Top