Anybody REALLY happy with trailer?

J

joefish

New member
Love boats! Hate trailers! Just about to leave for Penobscot Bay when I noticed one of the trailer wheels was cock-eyed. Sure enough, kicked the wheel and it was wobbly! :shock: :shock: :shock: I guess I should be glad I made it home from the last trip. Lug nuts so tight can't get them off - tried all my tricks. Between the wheel and axel things look pretty "burned up". I've never burned up a bearing before but that seems likely. I'm not the best at DIY maintenance but I do take my boats and trailers to the shop very often for repair and maintenance. Is there a BEST trailer for a C-Dory 25? I've had Magic Tilt (didn't like it. The boat moved around on it side to side.) and a custom ($$$) Shadow Trailer made in California (boat doesn't fit and constant problems). Can anyone tell me their all-time favorite trailer? Is there a top-of-the-line brand? Lots on this site about trailer problems but has anyone ever had a love affair with their trailer? :D :shock: :D Yes, please name names and share all the intimate details. Thanks!
 
Hi Joe,

We have a King Salt Water Series trailer for our 25. It has given us good service (with around 40,000 miles on it). We added electric over hydraulic brake acutator, and had to weld a couple of the supports (after a particularly nasty drive on NY roads).

I service the bearings before each major trip, and always give them time to cool before launching. We rinse thoroughly after each salt dipping. I have put spray on galvanizing on areas where needed. Replacement items: winch straps and tires (on our third set now) get replaced as necessary.

I had to add a support to keep the bow post in place early on, but otherwise it has been mostly normal maintenance.

I don't know how many more coast to coast tows I have in me, but I have been known to say, "The best accessory for these boats is the trailer." Love may be a strong word, but this trailer has been a champ.

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
Thanks for all the good info, Jim. I can tell you put a lot into the relationship but that trailer still deserves a little peck on the cheek. I doubt Joan will mind.

Totally agree - the best accessory for the boat is a trailer.
 
All aluminum magic tilt with torsion bar suspension. Rides extremely well, no significant tire wear. Surge brakes work great and I've had some extreme braking. No corrosion. Boat stays in place just fine. No complaints and I'd buy another. Mine was set up by Weffings with the original boat buy and they seem to have done a great job. I'd specify another identical to it if I were to buy one for another boat.
 
A second to Potter Water. Magic Tilt. No problems, just service bearings regularly, disconnect tail lights before launch, and cool bearings before launch in Lake Superior water. For long tows I use a strap across the cockpit to keep the boat from moving at all. I also use a vertical chain to the eye at the front. It stays put on all roads. A good trailer, with bunks, for the 22.
 
I agree that a key to happy trailering is to make sure that the boat is properly secured with the bow tied down and at least two major straps from the stern to the trailer. Mine are about 35 degrees angle out from the stern to the trailer which doesn't let the rear of the boat move sideways at all. The front strap down to the trailer tongue in addition to the winch strap keeps the bow snugged forward and downward into the cushion.

The biggest key to trailer longevity is, in my opinion, an absolute top trailering speed of 65 mph though I almost always do my trips at a max of 60 mph. 70 to 75 mph will destroy a trailer quicker than any other thing you can do to it. In my opinion trailer hardware just isn't as well engineered and set up for freeway speeds as are automobiles. Besides, you mpg will go significantly up. I add about 2 mpg with staying at or below 60 compared to 65 to 75.
 
Its not the brand, but the way it is set up. Those who are happy have the trailers set up well. One of the essential features on a 25 is side bunks, or guide wheels, as one of the members made, to be sure that the boat centers and stays there. Our 25 was about 1/2" from each of the inside fenders--so we had to be very careful how it was placed. We had adjustable side bunks, plus tie down straps. The Hydraulic over Electric is a great feature to have on the 25--and I would include that If I had another built.
 
I have had a couple EZ loader tandem trailers with no problems. When I shopped for a C-Dory, it was one of my "must have" items.

like Bob said, how you set it up is a big deal too. the side bunks/guides/whatever-you-want-to-call them are a must. I also like updating the wiring and rear lights with good quality sealed LED vs factory. Harbor Freight sells nice ones for $39.99 that usually run well over $100 elsewhere.
 
I've only had a few trailers, so not that much experience, but my feeling is that - although some trailers may have better or worse individual features than others - the main thing is in the way it is spec'ed and set up. First of all, is it amply, comfortably within spec *after* your boat is totally loaded up (frame, bearings, wheels, tires, etc.), and second of all is it well set up for the individual boat. I still have to get my trailer set up well for launching/retrieving (no side guides yet), but my first priority was to get it set up for long-distance traveling.

I would now add, "Third, what happens if you need assistance from the mfgr." I have a Magic Tilt trailer, and (after some upgrades and maintenance) it trailers beautifully, and looks well made -- but when I needed some info from the mfgr. they informed me that they don't/won't talk to customers, and I had to contact a dealer. I contacted a couple of dealers (one large one) and they said they would try to get the info from the mfgr. but sort of nicely said not to hold my breath. I ended up having to figure it out on my own (in contrast, I've heard many positive reports about people contacting EZ-Loader, and Pacific's website certainly looks like they would be helpful - and their heavy-duty side guides look fantastic). Others may be the same, and Magic Tilt may have changed, but I would check before buying a new trailer. I should note that I have no problem going through a dealer - that's what they're there for; but I like to deal with a company that will talk to a customer if it's needed.

I see you are in the northeast: For sailboats, Triad trailers is very well thought of, and custom fits trailers to your boat). They are in the northeast (Correction: I just looked them up and they are in Raleigh, NC; I think perhaps they used to be in Connecticut or thereabouts.)

Sunbeam
 
I'm on my 3rd trailer and you learn as you go. the first was Pacific which was non-galvanized, never again. 2 EZ-Loader trailers, the first for a 25' sailboat and the second for a 25' C-Dory. Both roller and both started with disk brakes. The first lost the disk brakes the second still has them, because they now have decent disk brakes. The second one came with guide ons, really worth while.

Overall I vote for EZ Loader. They now build aluminum trailers, that'll save you a couple of hundred pounds. Also, I like rollers, we launch in some strange places.

Since I only have had EZ Loaders, I certainly can't comment on any other brand. However, here's what I like about old EZ. The trailer is sturdy and in towing it around the western USA hasn't given us any trouble on the road. Those interstates are rough on a trailer. Tyres, beams, etc are sized for the load (7500#.) Rollers work well and don't need to be lubricated. Sturdy mount for the winch; if you slam to a stop, the winch support will stop the boat. Rubber torsion springs lower the trailer. An important factor for me is a factory parts depot. Dealers aren't too happy to order some small item for a trailer they haven't sold, but the factory does well. LED lights, sealed, not perfect but a heck of a lot better than the old ones. ours came with oil hubs, that's worked well, a plus.

I agree it's how it's set up, how it's used and how it's maintained. The maintenance on the hubs and brakes is done yearly. Check the hub bearings in the spring, though not since I put Timken bearings in. Rebuild the brakes every other year. Make sure the lug nuts are removable, this is gonna be a winter job. Some of this is due to the fact that we launch in salt water, some is just to have things go right when we trailer. Replaced the winch cable, tried webbing, back to the cable; it's easier to haul the boat up.

Electric/hydraulic brakes are a vast improvement over surge brakes, especially if you haul a long distance (>500 mi.)

Here's a topic on changed to disk brakes

And another on Venture 26 trailer. covers a lot of the same ground.

Boris
 
Float On trailers from Vero Beach Florida. I don't know if they sell direct but outside of a couple small issues ours has been great 30,000 plus miles. OEM tires were a joke. Float On has an excellent parts department. I have about 25,000 miles on Carlisle radials. Our normal towing speed is nine mph over the 65 mph limit. Get extra fender supports, use stainless steel wire to retain your license plate in case the mount breaks which it will. We carry extra u bolts. Get Kodiak brakes. We check bearings and replace wheel seals on an annual basis. Check my trailer mods album. It's a never ending battle.
D.D.
 
Don't love anything that isn't capable of loving you back. :wink:

Wheel bearing maintenance is of utmost importance. I disassemble, clean/re-pack every spring. Try to imagine the loads, torque, heat, rpms those bearings/races endure; then dunking them in water. The grease will break down and must be replaced.

Also, do NOT mix greases; different greases have different bases (aluminum, lithium etc) that cannot be mixed. If you currently use a lithium-based grease you must fill w/ the same. If not, a total disassembly, cleaning and re-pack is in order. At that time I re-pack, I inspect the brakes, tires, rims, trailer too.

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=15745&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=bearing&start=0

I've also begun using a small amount of silver anti-seize on the lug nuts. It makes getting them off so much easier. Available at any auto parts store.

We have a King; came w/ the boat.
Problems:
Hate the plastic fenders too. When gas spilled on them from the vents, they became discolored and even more pliable/soft. I've had to fix the winch as it bent under load. Now it works fine, though the original design is crap. On our second tongue jack too. Other than that it works.
 
I have the salt water king trailer. It has been ok. Not overly pleased with the plastic fenders tho. When heated by the sun, one folded up quicker than a Chinese circus & dumped the little woman flat on her back in the gutter. Boy was I hot over that! Didn't care for the guide ons so I shortened them up & positioned them on the inboard side of the frame with the carpet covered boards just touching the hull below the waterline. The boat no longer slides from side to side on the slippery plastic bunks & when loading, the boat is always in exactly the right place. Now...those drum brakes are truly a nightmare! what a rusty mess. When commercial crab season starts, I pull off the water & get out of their way till bottom fishing starts. I'm planning on switching to kodiak disc brakes during that down time. Trailers are the worst part of salt water boating. Vern
 
My King has served me well. 4 years come february, same bearings, same tires, and no problems. But like everyone who has one mentions, the fenders are junk.
 
Pacific. I'm on my second one. Changed to acquire a tandem. Steel -- galvanized. Runs straight, and smooth. Has steel fenders that I can climb on every time I get on the boat when it is on the trailer. Solid, side bunks, and bunks for the bed. 2 Speed hand winch with a strap. And turnbuckle down from the bow eye to the a-frame.

Don't love the trailer like I do the boat, but it sure beats any of the other boating accessories I have so far. I don't trailer as far as some, but Always rinse after each SW dunking, pull the light plug, and make sure I am parked entirely inside the parking space lines. (Had a light bracket hit, even so. Took about 5 minutes to get hold of the mfg and get a replacement on the way.)

Also, get the bearings and seals checked, serviced, replaced every year and check trailer tire pressures before any long trip. And the bearing temps frequently when on the road.

Nope, Don't love my trailer, but sure want to take care of it, BECAUSE, I have a trailer able boat. :thup :thup

Hope that helps some

Harvey
SleepyC:moon
 
As Dr .Bob has chimed in it's not the mfg. it's the way the trailer is set up for your boat .Most trailer mfg use similar parts. A trailer has only a few moving parts wheels ,spring or torsion axcels ,bearings ,brakes ,actuator, rollers ,winches and for some a solenoid for disc brakes to lock out the brakes as one backs up .
Brakes choices Kodiak, DeeMaxx, Tie down, to name a few .Most of your trailer mfg. will use Tie down for cost and have Kodiak as an upcharge .DeeMaxx is being used by law enforcement and Govt. trailers .
Spring or not to Spring that is the Question .I went with torsion to lower the Boat and for better salt water corrosion ,Although there is something to be said for diy c-brats changing a spring is easier then a new torsion axcel
Actuators ,rollers and winches and brake solenoids are usually easy fixes .The biggest problem is calipers sticking causing heat buildup burning out your bearings also not washing down brakes after salt water bath .
Lights since they are not a moving part I excluded them but they are usually the biggest pain and it's almost always the ground wire
If you have a trailer that needs to be setup its a lot cheaper to do it then buying a new trailer . Go with torsion springs, Kodiak brakes or similar. Bunk vs rollers and get a good set of LED lights and your good to go . Anyway that's my 2cents for what it's worth .




For my trailer needs I have a cc-23 (venture) hull with a f-115 Yamaha which is about 4000lb without to much cruising stuff mostly day trips with occasional night or two out.
I bought a 2450 continental trailer with tie down disc brakes and torsion axcels and I upgraded the wiring and all S/S fittings .So far Ive had to rebuild the brakes which I put on DeeMaxx trailer brakes they were a little less expensive then Kodiak at the time with similar quality .
 
After numerous trailer problems, both mine and those on the job, I've figured out what seem to be the best compromise for skiff trailers and trailers for boat a bit heavier, but similar in size than the C-Dory 25.
At work, we tow almost daily, so a day with a trailer out of service is a day that we have a survey team sitting around, waiting on their trailer, so that they can survey for various critical navigation missions. The cost of these trailers may seem expensive initially, but compare that to a trailer that sits in the shop for repair each month for a dozen times over just a two year period. This in addition to a crew that we tax payers are paying to sit around for a few days waiting on their boat trailer about once every month.
After many lessons leaned, the number one lesson that I have drilled in my head it to buy a trailer that has minimal moving parts and is the most durable with the least service requirements.
The attached files are my best shot at meeting these goals ( I had several trailers delivered over the past few years meeting my requirements), and though my troops wanted multi-roller trailers for all the bad ramp that we use, they are now all quite happy that the trailers are reliable and they can easily launch and recover at even the poorest ramps.

Work Item 1

STATEMENT OF OBJECTIVES
for
VESSEL CAWOOD BOAT TRAILER

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This work items describes the requirements to manufacture and provide a boat trailer for the US Army Corps Survey Vessel CAWOOD.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

US Army Corps of Engineers Vessel CAWOOD Information Sheet

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Construct and provide boat trailer.

3.1.1 Boat trailer shall be designed to fit a 25 foot survey boat built by Munson Manufacturing, Incorporated (see applicable documents). Trailer shall be rated for approximately 10,000 lbs load capability. The gross vehicle weight (GVWR) shall be equal to the load capability, plus the weight of the trailer. Trailer overall width shall not exceed the state of Virginia’s legal trailer width, that does not require an oversize permit.

3.1.2 The trailer’s major structural members shall be aluminum. All aluminum material used for construction of the trailer shall be marine grade. All steel material used shall be hot dipped galvanized. All fasteners shall be of non-corrosive materials.

3.1.3 Trailer hitch assembly shall be 2 5/16” ball type hitch that exceeds the GVWR. A lockable device be provided to lock the trailer tongue latch and shall have a resettable combination, such as ABUS 1801B/50 B or equal.

3.1.4 Support system for boat hull shall be self centering bunk system. Bunk top surfaces shall be made of ultra-high molecular weight (UHMW) polyethylene.

3.1.5 A winch stand shall be fabricated and installed for specific boat’s boat height and clearance. An electric winch shall be installed with a minimum rating of 12,000 lbs., similar to a Warn M12000. Winch cable shall be of non-corrosive materials. The winch stand shall have a bow stop. A tie down/ratchet strap shall be provided and installed to hold the bow and the rear of the vessel onto the trailer.
Note: Large capacity winch is a requirement in case vessel cannot be power-loaded if boat’s propulsion system does not function or if ramp used is too shallow for engine’s outdrive to be lowered and utilized as a means of power-loading.

3.1.6 Trailer jack stand requirement. A heavy duty electric trailer jack stand shall be mounted near the front of the trailer. Jack shall have a flat (non-rolling) base.

3.1.7 A heavy duty battery shall be mounted near the front of the trailer that provides power to the winch and electric tongue jack and is wired to be charged by the tow vehicle. The battery shall an AGM type battery and shall be in a box with a lockable device to prevent theft. The lockable device shall have a resettable combination lock provided, such as ABUS 1801B/50 B or equal.

3.1.8 Fabricate and install fenders capable of being walked on to allow entry and exit of boat while trailer borne.

3.1.9 Trailer shall have two axles. Trailer axles shall be torsion controlled (no leaf springs). Wheel bearing lubrication shall be either constant pressure style grease system with serviceable zerk fitting and shall have hub protectors installed, or oil bath hub system.
Note: Wheel bearing grease system shall be compatible with brake system manufacturer’s requirements.
Note: As per the requirements of paragraph 3.1.2 the axle and the torsion arms shall be galvanized. The axle shall be galvanized on the interior as well as the exterior.

3.1.10 Brakes shall be electric over hydraulic for each wheel and shall be heavy duty stainless steel disc, DeeMax 316 SS or equal. Brake lines and associated fittings shall be stainless steel or other non corrosive materials DOT and SAE approved.

3.1.11 Tires shall be radial trailer design. Tire and wheel assemblies shall be rated to exceed the GVWR. All tires shall be high speed balanced. The trailer shall have a plaque installed on each side, near the tires, that states the recommended tire inflation pressure.

3.1.12 A spare tire assembly and tire mount shall be installed near the front of the trailer. The spare tire shall be mounted with a complete hub assembly. Spare tire shall be high speed balanced. The spare tire shall have a lockable device to prevent theft. The lockable device shall have a resettable combination lock provided, such as ABUS 1801B/50 B or equal. Spare tire shall have a heavy duty, UV resistant cover installed to prevent UV damage.

3.1.13 Lighting and wiring requirement. Wiring system shall be groundless type with no bare connections exposed (water-tight sealed connections). A 7-blade RV type electrical plug shall be mounted at the front of the trailer, with a pigtail to reach tow vehicle. Lighting shall be DOT approved light emitting diode (LED) sealed/waterproof type. Install a license plate bracket to the left rear of the trailer.


3.1.14 Load guide requirement. Load guides shall be installed near the rear of trailer and shall extend above boat. Load guides shall be lighted at top of guides with LED Pipe-Light 1-PL 1019 or equal. Load guide lights are in additional to all other DOT required lights on the trailer.

3.1.15 Provide and install a tool box. A small aluminum tool box shall be mounted near the front of the trailer. The tool box shall contain all necessary tools required to change a tire. The tool box shall contain two wheel chocks. The tool box shall have a lockable device to prevent theft. The lockable device shall have a resettable combination lock provided, such as ABUS 1801B/50 B or equal.

3.1.16 A ladder shall be fabricated and installed on the front of the trailer, to allow embarking and disembarking of the boat while on the trailer. Ladder treads shall have surfaces that are skid resistant.

3.1.17 Trailer shall be striped with DOT approved reflective type tape around its entire perimeter to aid in visibility.

3.1.18 Provide and install a walkway on the trailer. Fabricate and install a walkway inside frame of trailer, from front to rear of the trailer, aft of the winch support. Walkway shall have a surface that is skid resistant.

3.1.19 Install a label plaque to the trailer with information to include model number, VIN, GVWR, GAWR, tire information and manufacturers nomenclature. Additionally, the VIN shall be permanently stamped into the frame of the trailer in the general location of the manufacturers label plate.

3.1.20 Fit the trailer to the boat. Fit-up shall include adjusting the trailer until all supports of the trailer provide equal contract to the vessels hull and manufacturers recommended tongue weight.

3.2 Test the trailer with the boat loaded on trailer. The contractor shall test the trailer at a boat ramp in the Hampton Roads region in the presence of the COR. Testing shall be performed to demonstrate that the trailer is road worthy and that the boat is capable of being launched and retrieved with minimal effort.

3.3 Warranty requirement. A warranty shall be provided that provides a minimum of 2 years without exclusions. Without exclusions also include replacement of any materials that corrode.

5. QUALITY ASSURANCE

5.1 Inspect trailer for weld and mechanical defects prior to leaving manufacturing facility. Inspect the trailer for non-compliant materials. Correct all defects prior to trailer leaving facility.

6. NOTES

6.1 General information about the hull’s bottom.

Note: All measurements provided are approximate and it is the contractor’s responsibility to measure the hull’s under body interferences for fit up of the trailer.

6.1 .1 The boat’s single beam sonar transducer is located on the bottom of the hull, starboard side, 20” inboard of the chine and 9’ forward of the stern. The transducer and fairing measure approximately 2’ long and 9” wide.

6.1.2 The boat’s ball check transducer is located on the bottom of the hull, port side, approximately 2’ inboard of the chine and 9’ forward of the stern. The transducer and fairing measure approximately 1’ long and 7” wide.

6.1.3 The boat’s engine sea water intake is located on the bottom of the hull, starboard side, approximately 2’ inboard of the chine and 3’ 6” forward of the stern.

6.1.4 The boat’s generator sea water intake is located on the bottom of the hull, port side, approximately 2’ inboard of the chine and 2’ forward of the stern.

6.1.5 The boat is a monohull with a V configuration from bow to stern. On the bottom, the last few feet of the centerline of the bottom has a vertical plate attached for purpose of aiding tracking.

6.1.6 The existing boat trailer has height of boat bottom at the stern of approximately 22 inches from the ground. The new trailer shall not exceed this height and a height of less than this is strongly desired.

6.1.7 The boat’s bow eye to transom (excludes trim tabs and outdrive) is 21’7”.

6.1.8 Munson Manufacturing, Incorporated is not in business, so hull measurement information is the responsibility of the contractor, providing this trailer.

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I like my MagicTilt that came under my boat from W. Palm Beach Fla. to Wenatcheee, Wash., 3200 miles in 54hrs. on cheap Chinese tires. Then I pulled it from there to Alaska all with out any problems. Total trip of 5600 miles.
I have used it now for 4 summers beach launching/retrieving in the ocean surf all w/o problems.

I have made some mod's to it, side guides, led lights, new bow stop and added Teflon to tops of bunks. You can see some of my mod's in my photo album.

Just take good care of it, keep maint. current and it will do fine for you.
 
Float On and Magic Tilt are who we use . We rep Float on for alot of the Southeast and they do go through dealers. We can help with either company and know the setups well .

Speaking of trailers , we have a very lightly used Magic Tilt Torsion Aluminum with all the goodies [complete mounted spare tire and hub assembly with brake disc,LEDs] that has made two trips in its life . From Wefings to Punta Gorda , and from Punta Gorda to Wefings. It will fit either a C Dory 25 or a 26 Venture . It came from the Cape Cruiser Unico , that we just sold . The new owners are in Pensacola and will be in the high and dry downtow, so no need for trailer.
Call or PM if interested . It was about 6300 bucks new
Model TCA2682
Has net carry capacity of 8200 Lbs.
Marc
 
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