Angola canvas (22/19 mooring cover)

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South of Heaven

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Guys, I just called Angola canvas. They have the template for a 22 cruiser mooring cover on file BUT not the 19. Will a 22 cruiser slant back cover fit my 19??
The cockpit and Pilothouse height are identical right? I'm hoping to order this ASAP. They have a 2-3 week window on custom orders.
Thanks!
 
I just checked the C Dory site. It says that the 19 cockpit is 4 by 5'7 and the 22 cruiser cockpit is 4'6 by 5'9. I thought they were identical.

Could I just tell Angola to use the 22 cruiser template BUT take into consideration the slightly smaller dimensions of 4 by 5'7 ?
 
South of Heaven":2h616g4y said:
Guys, I just called Angola canvas. They have the template for a 22 cruiser mooring cover on file BUT not the 19. Will a 22 cruiser slant back cover fit my 19??
The cockpit and Pilothouse height are identical right? I'm hoping to order this ASAP. They have a 2-3 week window on custom orders.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
I don't think that will work. If you look at the spec sheets on the C-Dory web site, the 19' angler cockpit is 4' from fore to aft while the 22' cruiser cockpit is 4'6" in the same measurement. Beam and headroom are the same but I suspect other measurements vary between the two models. Since nothing is square on a boat, I don't think you can count on too much in terms of similar measurements.
 
The slant back covers is the easiest to make. One option is to have a local canvas shop make it for you. I made my own slant back cover but had Angola make my full cover.
 
Agree with above. Have a local canvas shop make the slant back. The slant back geometry has to include the sides which are going to be different in the 19, as well as the length. Also the local shop will put the awning rail and snaps on your boat and be sure it fits correctly.
 
Hmm, okay. That's too bad. I thought the 22 cruiser and 19 were identical except for the cabin extension.

I tried to go the "local" route. Starting last week I've called several shops from Boston to Cape Cod. They are all booked well into July. That's why I tried Angola; thinking that they may have done a 19 before.
 
I sent drawings w/ measurements for our 25 cover since we had the radar arch. They made the cover perfectly. Don't see why you couldn't do the same. :?
 
I think Local Boy is onto something. You cab take some battens, and run from the top corner of the cabin top to the point where the cockpit ends aft--maybe 2" more). Measure this distance, then take measurements XX inches along the batten, to the top of the gunnel, then allow 4" over the side. Do this 3 or 4 places on each side. The top of the cabin, and the splash well will be the same as on the C Dory 22. The only difference will be from the top of cabin, (and I would make this where the awning rail is gong to be). to the lazarette and splash well, snaps.

On the other hand, if you want to get into making canvas--get a "Sail Rite"--or a good heavy duty machine, and do it your self...As noted above, it is one of the easier projects. You will need snap setter, snaps and the awning railing.
 
I just called King Marine in Seattle. I spoke to one guy who "thinks" they may have a template on file for my boat but wasn't sure. He told me that the other guy (Dave) knows more about C Dory's and will call me back today with more details.

Fingers crossed....
 
King Canvas also has one.
It doesn't make any difference. You will be putting the snaps in the fabric and also in the boat, so 2" or 6" more will be a welcome amount for overhang. Take it from someone that has actually done it, it will work great.
 
Yeah, but I don't want to have to trim any overhang. Ideally it should be the correct size, especially under tension.

You said you did it yourself Aquila? What did you do? Buy a cover already cut and then install it ? Or did you make it from scratch?

Still waiting for King marine to call back .
 
I used a King. What they will send you is a trimmed and hemmed cover. What is most important is the placement of the snaps on the boat and in the cover. Extra material will not need to be trimmed. Once you. Once you complete the project you will see what I was saying. The difference in the size is a small matter. You will have control of the fit.
 
Aquila":p3z7t0o5 said:
I used a King. What they will send you is a trimmed and hemmed cover. What is most important is the placement of the snaps on the boat and in the cover. Extra material will not need to be trimmed. Once you. Once you complete the project you will see what I was saying. The difference in the size is a small matter. You will have control of the fit.
Click to expand...

Keith, thanks for talking to me on the phone. You had great info.
 
Hello Jason,

IF you have to do the "fitting," then check out the tool Sailrite.com sells for snap placement...they call it the Snaprite system shown here

I won't try to describe HOW it works (other than to say it is GREAT for positioning snaps so the canvas fit is nice and snug/tight). They have a couple good vids demonstrating it...click the blue 'video' tab at the top of the page.

dave
 
SGIDave":2d55papx said:
Hello Jason,

IF you have to do the "fitting," then check out the tool Sailrite.com sells for snap placement...they call it the Snaprite system shown here

I won't try to describe HOW it works (other than to say it is GREAT for positioning snaps so the canvas fit is nice and snug/tight). They have a couple good vids demonstrating it...click the blue 'video' tab at the top of the page.

dave
Click to expand...

Thanks. Not sure yet. If I do end up buying from King or Angola then I'll probably still have a local person install it. Unless it's REALLY easy, then I may attempt it.
 
Dave, interesting system thanks for liking to that. It seems fairly simple--and hopefully new canvas workers can understand.

It appears as though the counter part--the stud head into the hard surface of the hull is covered at this video I believe that a standard pop rivet tool, or gun will work with this system--so all you really have to buy is the dies, the special snaps (the buttons have a hole in the center--and may not be as large a diameter?...Certainly is slick.

With the stud, you are using a pop rivet rather than a machine screw or standard screw. I prefer these for their strength...but a Stainless steel pop rivet may work about as well...There may be a hole, which might leak>? I have not used the system so cannot address this.

The system does make it easier to position the rivet, to tension the canvas, and to avoid having to punch a hole in the canvas, before flaring the neck of the button.

The issue of using a 22 slant back by King canvas, I believe will leave excess material along the sides--it may not fit properly on the back. The side will slant downward, rather than being straight. I do have a king canvas slant back (came with the boat)--and I would not use it on a 19...If King has a 19 cover, then it should work fine. There are some things about the King slant back don't like as well as some of the other slant backs--and I could correct, to keep more water out of the cockpit and debris out of the splash well. The disadvantage of using a cover made by any one other than local, is figuring out exactly where to place the awning rail, as well as the snaps, especially for someone who does not fully understand canvas work.., Using vinyl awning rail on the sides of the cabin will give better rain seal, than if you use the snaps.

But if you can find one built for a 19, then the folks here will help you install...be sure and ask if there is a question...
 
thataway":3sjbmmcw said:
Dave, interesting system thanks for liking to that. It seems fairly simple--and hopefully new canvas workers can understand.

It appears as though the counter part--the stud head into the hard surface of the hull is covered at this video I believe that a standard pop rivet tool, or gun will work with this system--so all you really have to buy is the dies, the special snaps (the buttons have a hole in the center--and may not be as large a diameter?...Certainly is slick.

With the stud, you are using a pop rivet rather than a machine screw or standard screw. I prefer these for their strength...but a Stainless steel pop rivet may work about as well...There may be a hole, which might leak>? I have not used the system so cannot address this.

The system does make it easier to position the rivet, to tension the canvas, and to avoid having to punch a hole in the canvas, before flaring the neck of the button.
Click to expand...

Hello Bob,

For a stud mounted to a fiberglass boat surface, I use the machine screw with nut or standard screw as you mention above...then use the SnapRite system to get the other half of the snap in the canvas part positioned exactly right the first time. Very slick! I think in Sailrite's vid they show using the stainless mandrel (basically a nail) with the rivet gun which would work fine in a steel shop table as in their example piece. But I would not use that method in FRP as with our boats.

Yes, a standard riveter will work. The one they include in the set is nice but nothing special. You simply swap the threaded nose pieces depending upon which function you want.

Anyway, I like it and recommend it. There are other ways to install snaps, but this system covers MOST situations.

/dave
 
Update:

I found a local canvas guy that was able to come to my marina and give me a quote on the slant back canvas. BUT I instead went with the full camper back enclosure. He examined my Bimini and said that we can definitely use my existing setup and just add to it. I'll have eisenglass on all three sides and the rear will be two panels. I could have went with 3 aft and 2 zippers (kinda like my canvas cabin door).
All the panels will be able to be removed and even the whole enclosure itself is easily removed ( or so he says). I'll definitely keep it up while at the marina and that should keep out of most of the rain water.

Should be pretty cool! It'll make the boat feel a tad bigger too because I can remove the cabin door and just use the camper back. I'm envisioning a big living room! Lol

He's gonna start working on it this week.

Any advice from the guys here with full camper backs??? I asked the guy if they're watertight and he said yes but reminded me that on a boat water always finds it way where it shouldn't belong. I'm okay with that. As long as it keeps out most of the rain....
What about cleaning? I assume that the outside must get really dirty with the salt water spray. That won't be fun.
 
Did you get insect screens sewn in? Howe about "smile" roll up windows?. The only negative about the full camper up all of the time, is that the windows will age with time.

Have the seams sewn with Tenara thread (Gortes) or similar. The coated dacron or nylon will not last as well. Worth the extra cost.

Clear vinyl: There are many thicknesses from 10 to 40 mils. The best is going to be something like 40 mil Strataglass, or EZ2CY. Look them up. Sheet vinyl is better than rolled vinyl.

You want zippered panel on each side, for entrance. Be able to zip the top back at the awning rail attachment. (Your simple Bimini may not have a zipper between it and the welt for the awning rail. You want zippers in toward the center, so you can open from either side. If you don't have the zipper panel--usually 24" in the front of the side, you will have to flip the whole panel up to get aboard. This may be OK in the 19. plus or minus on the 22, and I think essential on the 25 and Tom Cat.

Also using awning rail on the sides, make it more water tight. See my album for details.

The aft curtain--I have had 3 2 and 1 panel. Current is one panel--I flip the whole thing up over the top. Make some straps to hold the sides up.

Dave--using the SS rivets (or inferior aluminum) one should put a washer on the inside of the pop rivet before expanding it. This gives a lot more grip--like a nut inside. I agree that the best is a machine screw with washer and nut.
 
No. I'm not having an insect screen. There were tons of additional options that he said we could do but I didn't feel the need for most of them.

Yes, the sides will be zippered.

Can't wait to get this baby on the boat!
 
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