And now the starboard engine won't start!

T

tcr_pnw

New member
Hey all,

First, thanks in advance for any and all input. I have twin '06 F60TLR's on my Venture. They have just over 300 hours and had their 300 hour service. I just purchased the boat 3 months ago and am having serious frustrations and now lack of trust in the outboards. For the first couple months and 50 hours later things were perfect. Then a couple weeks ago the trim/tilt switch got corroded on the port engine and fried the relay, trim/tilt motor and battery. $1000 later...

Now, after having the work done I replaced the port battery and trickle charged the starboard. Hooked them up and fired up the starboard engine. It turned over instantly. Checked the voltage on the battery to make sure the alternator was working. It was. Turned it off and went to restart...click...click...click...

Battery reads 12.60V and the terminals are clean. All fuses are good. The battery connection at the starter solenoid under the cowling reads 12.60V and does not change when the ignition is turned over. The click is not coming from the starter or starter relay/solenoid. It's near back more towards the transom. Port engine starts fine. I'm assuming the starter is fried. Anything else to troubleshoot? Any reason why it would just die after having zero issues or hesitation? With all the back to back issues on both engines my trust in them getting me home is waning...and they are just barely broken in...

Any input would be great.

Thank you in advance,

Troy
 
You might try jumping the starter solenoid. Have a partner at the ignition key, have your partner turn the key and jump the two posts on the starter solenoid. I'd use a #6 or so wire. If the engine cranks you know it is the solenoid.
 
Ouch :!: those are Yamaha, and they have a very high reliability reputation. My first thought is I might go back and have the mechanics that did the work go back over what they did and see if they messed up somehow. Accidents happen, even with good mechanics, although the better they are the less often the accidents. And since I am not one, I rely on the factory certified and locally recommended versions to keep my OBs (Yamaha twin 40's) running.

Guess you should be glad you have twins and the other one started. I spent 3 hours swimming, towing a single engine ski boat once, (ONE), time :twisted: :lol: (It was a friends boat, yup a good friend) :mrgreen: and have since given up on water skiing in remote places :oops: and running single OBs. Fortunately the water was warm and it was on a lake. :lol: :lol:

Harvey
SleepyC:moon

JC_Lately_SleepyC_Flat_Blue_055.highlight.jpg
 
Puzzling.
It cranked and started.
You believe the alternator is working.
You shut it down.
And immediately the battery was 12.06 volts when you went to crank again.
It is possible the battery shorted a cell the instant you went to restart - but sure seems unlikely.
Get a temporary battery and a set of jumper cables. Unhook the engine cables going to the current battery and jump it to the temporary setup and do the start/run/check, etc.
Once you KNOW that the engine starter/alternator is working and is not shorted in any way you can begin to trouble shoot the boat system.
 
hardee":3ehxff22 said:
Ouch :!: those are Yamaha, and they have a very high reliability reputation. My first thought is I might go back and have the mechanics that did the work go back over what they did and see if they messed up somehow. Accidents happen, even with good mechanics, although the better they are the less often the accidents. And since I am not one, I rely on the factory certified and locally recommended versions to keep my OBs (Yamaha twin 40's) running.

Guess you should be glad you have twins and the other one started. I spent 3 hours swimming, towing a single engine ski boat once, (ONE), time :twisted: :lol: (It was a friends boat, yup a good friend) :mrgreen: and have since given up on water skiing in remote places :oops: and running single OBs. Fortunately the water was warm and it was on a lake. :lol: :lol:

Harvey
SleepyC:moon

JC_Lately_SleepyC_Flat_Blue_055.highlight.jpg
Click to expand...

yeah, it's a bummer. going to give the mechanic a call tomorrow when they are open. he came highly recommended. the work he did was on the port engine which is now operating excellently. the gremlin seems to have moved over to the starboard...
 
Levitation":1buithec said:
Puzzling.
It cranked and started.
You believe the alternator is working.
You shut it down.
And immediately the battery was 12.06 volts when you went to crank again.
It is possible the battery shorted a cell the instant you went to restart - but sure seems unlikely.
Get a temporary battery and a set of jumper cables. Unhook the engine cables going to the current battery and jump it to the temporary setup and do the start/run/check, etc.
Once you KNOW that the engine starter/alternator is working and is not shorted in any way you can begin to trouble shoot the boat system.
Click to expand...

yep, cranked and fired instantly. pre-start the batt read 12.57V, while running it was 13 and some change so it is getting a charge. it was hooked up to the muffs in the driveway. turned it off, let it sit for a min and wanted to fire it back up as a double check and got the click. the battery is holding a good charge at 12.6V which is what is being read at the starter. Port engine starts and hums just fine as do all the onboard electronics. The trim/tilt work fine on both engines...just the starboard gives a click. the port battery is brand new so I will try swapping and see what happens. thank you for the input!
 
You know, when I got a "klick" on the old flathead, I found a bad battery connection somewhere between the battery and the starter. And it still applies.

So, even if it starts now, go back and look at every connection between the battery and the lug on the starter. Find it now or find it next time.

Another thought is if the starter drive is jammed in the flywheel or if the starter has a bad commutator segment. Either way give a pull on the flywheel and try again.

Boris
 
The plot thickens...

I pulled the starboard battery again. Rechecked every connection. Wire brushed them, bought new nuts. Scrubbed everything pristine. Check the connection at the starter as well. To eliminate any other connections, the engine is connected directly to the battery. Gave it a go, click...click...click.

I had my wife come down the driveway and put the voltmeter on the battery, 12.57V. Had her turn the key, 12.57V. No draw. Went over to the starter, 12.57V. Had her turn the key 12.57V. No draw. Held the electrodes and had her do it once more. Bam starts up and scares the crap out of me. I have her kill it within a second or two (no water hooked up). Turn the hose on and connect the muffs. Turn the key...click...click...click

Trim/tilt/gauges still all fire up.

With a weekend like this should be on the water!
 
journey on":s68jbkpe said:
You know, when I got a "klick" on the old flathead, I found a bad battery connection somewhere between the battery and the starter. And it still applies.

So, even if it starts now, go back and look at every connection between the battery and the lug on the starter. Find it now or find it next time.

Another thought is if the starter drive is jammed in the flywheel or if the starter has a bad commutator segment. Either way give a pull on the flywheel and try again.

Boris
Click to expand...

Thanks Boris.

Same here. Had a starter issue with the old F250. Ended up being a bad starter and when I replaced it I damaged the cable at the terminal under the sheath. It was corroded and when I pulled the battery to change the starter it damaged the wire. Was 3 days of trouble shooting the new starter(s) until I came to that. All looks good going to the Yamaha though. Also, gave the flywheel a pull as well. Still no dice.
 
Levitation":23028lmp said:
Puzzling.
Get a temporary battery and a set of jumper cables. Unhook the engine cables going to the current battery and jump it to the temporary setup and do the start/run/check, etc.
.
Click to expand...

Battery jumped directly to starter with cables bypassing the boats electrical system...click...

Something to do with the starter/solenoid system...even more puzzleing since it just gave me a start but has now reverted back to it's clicking state.

Maybe it's fate telling me to finish the landscaping instead of playing on the water?? :teeth
 
It appears you have the dreaded INTERMITTENT ELECTRICAL PROBLEM. Most likely something somewhere is loose or corroded. At least you can probably know the starter, alternator, and engine are all OK. Unless there is something loose or corroded within one of them. Now you're at the inch by inch check everything mode. I had a problem on one of my Honda 40's where the nut on the solenoid post became loose, caused intermittent arcing, and burned out the solenoid. You may have something that simple.

Good luck.
 
colobear":123ifrc5 said:
It appears you have the dreaded INTERMITTENT ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
Click to expand...

Intermittent is right! One nice thing about twins is you have test parts. I pulled the starter and put it on the port engine (that has been fine). It turned over. Reinstalled the original starters. Next pulled the start relay and put it on the port engine. It turned over. Reinstalled the original relays and the starboard turned over. Put the muffs on and she fires up. Ran it for 5-10 min to charge the battery (getting 13.6V). Turned it off, crossed my fingers and turned the ignition again...

click...click...click

Back to square one. All the connections looked good when I pulled and reinstalled the parts. I did not have time to test with the port parts on the starboard (problem) engine but will tomorrow. What seems like the more likely suspect, short in a connection somewhere else or could the relay or starter have a short causing the intermittent problem? Still getting 12.6V at the starter and the relay.

Thanks again everybody!

Troy
 
When my Stbd engine went click, click, click, and would not start, my mechanic traced it to a faulty solinoid. Runs sweet now.

Martin.
 
I have a Merc 90 and had similar intermittent problems with the starter. I pulled the starter and took it to a starter repair guy for testing. Found the solenoid to be bad. Bought a new solenoid and all was good. Most shops will diagnosis something like free if you buy the needed part from them.

I believe Merc and Yamaha use the same power head, and Merc is notorious for starter problems...
 
You have a bad solenoid. They don't always just stop working. This behavior is typical of one going out. Just replace it and don't worry why its only faulty some times.
 
I'd do a non-technical approach, just have someone turn the key to start and then give the starter motor (or solenoid first) a quick tap with a small, metal hammer.
 
I've done what Steve is suggesting, tapping the solenoid, with a screwdriver by holding the screwdriver by the flat end and wacking the solenoid with the handle. Worked great on every English sports car I owned. Does wonders to free up stuck carburetor floats too. ;-)
 
FInally got the time to spend a bit more solving the issue. I already established power into the starter and into the relay are good. Put the voltmeter on lead connecting the relay and starter. With a second set of hands available, I had my wife turn the key, zip. Relay 'clicks' but no juice going to the starter telling it to engage. Pulled the relay of the the port engine and put it on the starboard and she fires right up. Repeated several times. Seems the relay is the culprit. But dang, $70 on a relay. What happened to $10 for one for the Ford at O'Reilly's?? :D

Thanks all for the input/suggestions. Much appreciated! Can I go get on the water now? Only a couple days left for lings!
 
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