I'm going to drill and install a drain tube...installed a hawsp pipe today.. ....what size hole and clam shell will i need...Do i put the drill ...left side/bottom of the locker and about a 1/2 inch off the bottom...than drill at about a 45 degree angle straight thru the hull and hope for the best....Thanks Tug
Anchor Locker Drain Tube
- Thread starter Tug
- Start date
:?: :roll: :twisted:
That sounds like what wasw done for my anchor locker drain, but I'll be switched if I can figure why "1/2 inch off the bottom". Makes for a bit of a wet, soggy, and maybe stinky fix. I am trying to figure out how to fill the bottom of my locker up to where that hole is so that ANY water in there will drain out NOW.
If I were starting from scratch I would drill from as low as possible, then place a tube through the hole and seal it off around both ends to insure that the water ONLY goes out THROUGH the tubing.
WM had 2 sizes of clam shell caps. I had to replace mine. It took the larger size.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Tug,
Sorry, our WM only had 2, and I got the larger one, which apparently from their catalog is the middle size, Perko, Chromed Brass, WM#199820 and Perko #0315DP2CHR It is 2" across the opening from hole to hole, and I think, but don't remember for sure 2" from each hole to the other (think equilateral triangle).
I don't think it is too scientific an issue as to which one you use. The one I used fit the holes from the previous clam shell that was deformed at some point in a launching incident
(I am learning to only launch where there is enough water to float my boat :wink
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Sorry, our WM only had 2, and I got the larger one, which apparently from their catalog is the middle size, Perko, Chromed Brass, WM#199820 and Perko #0315DP2CHR It is 2" across the opening from hole to hole, and I think, but don't remember for sure 2" from each hole to the other (think equilateral triangle).
I don't think it is too scientific an issue as to which one you use. The one I used fit the holes from the previous clam shell that was deformed at some point in a launching incident
(I am learning to only launch where there is enough water to float my boat :wink Harvey
SleepyC :moon
captainrick
New member
Mornin',
I am in the middle of installing drain tube (3M should be dry by noon). My drain was leaking into the area under the bow cabin flooring and weeping up through the plug below the Porta-Potty. I used a BIC pen body for a drain tube. If you decide to do the same...size the drill accordingly. Good Luck, Rick
I am in the middle of installing drain tube (3M should be dry by noon). My drain was leaking into the area under the bow cabin flooring and weeping up through the plug below the Porta-Potty. I used a BIC pen body for a drain tube. If you decide to do the same...size the drill accordingly. Good Luck, Rick
Rick..good luck with your installation....if you could post any pictures of the drain tube project i am sure lots of people ..including myself would be interested in seeing them. I can not find any pictures ...of the drain hole location in the locker itself and pictures of the drain hole tube ..( location/position on the bow )..so i can get an idea where the holes are suppose to be......Thanks Tug
I ordered the Perko..# 0315DP2CHR from West Marine...that should work. Has anyone ever thought of useing one of those ....splash-well plastic drain tubes, the ones with the two tubes that slide inside each other and lock when you squeeze them together...they are flared at both ends. I not sure how thick the hull is at the bow but these tubes are about 2 1/2 long and have a one inch diameter or is that too big for an locker drain tube. Tug
The diameter is too big and the length too long, to use the stern drain tubes.
I probaly would build up the floor of the anchor locker, to prevent the problem with water going into the area under the bunk. I would use mat and roving or cor mat, to get the thickness--this is one place where polyester resin is as good; maybe better than epoxy.
I probaly would build up the floor of the anchor locker, to prevent the problem with water going into the area under the bunk. I would use mat and roving or cor mat, to get the thickness--this is one place where polyester resin is as good; maybe better than epoxy.
Don't know if this would work or what to use actually, but I have thought about using something that could be poured in and would self level, and then lowering the bow and tilting the boat starboard side down. This would make that side high when everything is back on the level, and the water would drain out the port side (low side of the locker) as it should.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Harvey, I like your idea. I'm ruminating over the same issue for my '22. I would think you could just use epoxy resin, 2 or 3 layers consecutively.
Is there a reason why you want the drain on the port side? Just wondering because it seems to me that either side would work equally well.
Also, you could drill the drain hole (oversize) prior to applying your last layer of epoxy, cover the drain with tape on the outside of the hull, and just let the epoxy fill the drain hole too. Then after everything was cured drill out the drain hole and you'd have a nice epoxy seal all the way through.
jd
Is there a reason why you want the drain on the port side? Just wondering because it seems to me that either side would work equally well.
Also, you could drill the drain hole (oversize) prior to applying your last layer of epoxy, cover the drain with tape on the outside of the hull, and just let the epoxy fill the drain hole too. Then after everything was cured drill out the drain hole and you'd have a nice epoxy seal all the way through.
jd
The hull is not cored where the drain goes. Thus the epoxy seal is not necessary. Although epoxy can be poured, you don't want to make it too thick--it heats up too much, and there is a loss of strength. I much perfer to use a cloth material with epoxy. You can slope it any way you want. With Polyester, then matt cloth and roving as necessary.
Go to this album for a pict (021) of the tube I installed. There's not much prospective. I should have dropped a penny in the picture.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php
As I remember I did this in a Pensacola ship yard without many resources. The hole was already there and I think I used the tube off of a Great Stuff can. It fit just right. I coated the thing with 3m 5200 and cut it to length after installation. It sits about 1/2 inch off the bottom of the locker. I think it drains fine because the attitude of the boat causes gravity to pull the water down to the lowest part of the locker...or maybe its because I'm going 20kts and the difference in air pressure pushes the water out (sorry I'm I'm a physics nerd). Anyway it cured the problematic leak.
Mike[/url]
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php
As I remember I did this in a Pensacola ship yard without many resources. The hole was already there and I think I used the tube off of a Great Stuff can. It fit just right. I coated the thing with 3m 5200 and cut it to length after installation. It sits about 1/2 inch off the bottom of the locker. I think it drains fine because the attitude of the boat causes gravity to pull the water down to the lowest part of the locker...or maybe its because I'm going 20kts and the difference in air pressure pushes the water out (sorry I'm I'm a physics nerd). Anyway it cured the problematic leak.
Mike[/url]
Captains Cat
New member
Mpm, bring the photo up full size, not in the album but full size. Click on properties and paste that into the IMG thingy. Then it will be full sized.
Charlie
Charlie
Thanks for the reply. As to which side, makes no difference that I know of except that mine was already drilled on the port side. I think it would be tough to fill that hole and then redrill back through the filled hole and stay in that fill.
Still don't have an answer, Why is the drain hole 1/2 inch above the bottom of the locker :?: Wouldn't it drain better if it was at the bottom :?:
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
After trying our anchor system, I had close to an inch of water in the anchor locker that would not drain, at 20 knots or even going up the launch ramp. Still had water in there a couple weeks later (Ugh and don't ask how I figured it out.) :roll: :twisted:
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Still don't have an answer, Why is the drain hole 1/2 inch above the bottom of the locker :?: Wouldn't it drain better if it was at the bottom :?:
Harvey
My guess is, that it's that way, because it's easier to fabricate and install at the factory, period.
But that's just a guess, and I won't even charge you the 2¢ this time!
Joe. :lol: :thup
Finally got around to installing the anchor locker drain tube ...along with the Clam Shell....Went better than i expected...was able to place the tube about 1/8 inch above the locker floor. All sealed with epoxy ....the hull is all fiberglass on my boat where i drilled. Will post pictures of all the modifications after i install the Windlass. Tug