All chain rode/ battery question.

V

Valkyrie

New member
We now have a CD22 on order with a windlass package that included a Delta #9 anchor and all chain rode. Instead I specified a #14 Delta with an appropriately upgraded roller, as well.

I like the idea of all-chain rode, but is a Horizon 600 up to the weight? Also, is the Free Fall model preferable?

Batteries: what is preferable? Having spoken to another owner, he noted that the batteries included with his boat were not up to the task of everday use. What should I request as far as batteries for our new baby?

Thanks,

Nick
 
You don't mention what you have for power on your new boat. If you have ordered it with twins you will have two batteries, One for each engine.You never run with BOTH on the selector, Each engine charges and works off its own battery and you never want to have the possibility of electrical crossover. You can use either one for house. If you have a single engine you will have just a single battery for both the engine and house. The 600 will take either line or chain or a combination. It uses more amperage than the 400 which I have currently. I am equipped with 300 ft of line and 20 ft of chain holding a 16 lb. Bruce. The added weight of the chain would be my concern. Three of us just ordered 25's with single engines. They usually come with 2 60 Amp/Hour batteries. One for house and one for the engine. We have specified that we want two house and they will be 90 Amp/Hour. They also will have the 600. I am planning on using the same rode and anchor of the 25.
 
Valkyrie":2v1trkmt said:
Batteries: what is preferable? Having spoken to another owner, he noted that the batteries included with his boat were not up to the task of everday use. What should I request as far as batteries for our new baby?
Click to expand...

I had the dealer install AGM batteries from the git-go. Biggest two that would fit in the starboard lazarette. First off, ever since the diesel submarine days, my clothes have had an affinity for battery acid. All I have to do is walk past a lead acid battery and next time they get washed they look ventilated. Besides, the new AGM batteries are much more charger friendly and they hold a charge far longer than the regular lead-acid or Gel types while in storage.

AGM's are truly plug and play now!

Also have a Minn-Kota dual battery charger that's still awaiting installation. Built for the bass boat crowd, it's sprayproof and heavy duty!
 
Valkyrie-

How long is your all chain rode? The required 1/4" Hi-Test chain weighs .74 ft per foot, so a hundred feet obviously weighs in at 74 lbs. Add your 14 lb Delta, and your total weight quickly goes up to 88 lbs. In shallow water, however, most of the chain will be on the bottom and not suspended below the boat. Needless to worry, as the windlass can easily handle the full load with a maximum pull of 625 lbs.

With the shallow conditions on the East Coast and in the bays thereabouts, the 100 ft would probably be long enough, since a 2:1 scope is adequate with the all chain set up, as compared to the 5-7:1 required when using mostly rope. I would think the all chain set up would be quite an advantage in a crowded anchorage.

I have the 100 ft all chain set up, and I like it just fine in the waters I use it, plus I like the fact that there's virtually no chance of slippage (compared to rope). I also like the fact that the added weight up front helps hold the bow down and smooth out the chop in shallow water when motoring.

I also believe Cutter, like any other dealer, likes to install a standard package that is proven to work well in their local waters to avoid component mismatch problems as well as selection errors on the behalf of customers. Be aware, however, that what exactly comprises a good anchoring package varies greatly with the waters one cruises in as well as one's own specific uses.

As far as the Free Fall question is concerned, I think that you wouldn't want to turn loose of of that chain with a disengaged clutch, as its own weight would pull the whole length out each time, perhaps at a very uncontrolled rate of descent. I'd stick with the power-down arrangement.

Congradulations and Good Luck with your new C-Dory!
 
My gut feeling is all chain is severely over anchorlined (new word) and certainly overweight on a lightweight boat like this. Plus it's going to put a lot of weight in the tip of the bow which coupled the the weight of the engines at the stern will cause the boat to hobbyhorse.

The Hondas will start easily and not strain a deep cycle battery so you don't need starting and house batteries. Unfortunately with twins you have to keep them totally electrically isolated to avoid messing up the alternators. I suspect there are some exotic electronics which allow one alternator to charge both batteries. But a simple elecrical system is another major plus for a single engine installation.

-- Chuck
 
All chain rode?

It is highly recommended here on the Columbia River to keep a sharp knife handy when anchoring in the Columbia. In the event that a large log comes drifting down river, you may need to cut your anchor rope immediatly as there is no time to to weigh anchor. A large log could exert enough pressure to pull the bow under.
 
Our two engines each have their own starting AGM batteries, small and perfect for the job. Each engine is isolated from the other, electrically and with their own fuel lines, filters, tanks. So, we have complete redundancy and (relative) peace of mind. We have one large AGM house battery.

All chain is, in our opinion, not necessary. It overweights the bow as Chuck said and defeats some of the important advantages of a dory hull. It's expensive also, and you lose some of the advantage of stretch that a line has 'built in' thus taking out some of the 'shock' when anchored in waves. Most cruisers opt for about a boat length of chain and the remainder line -- we pack 20' chain and 200' of line (except in Alaska, where we carry 20' and 300.' [/code]
 
Chuck, Larry, and El and Bill-

You bring up some good points. One of the most important considerations about anchor and rode choice is how and where the boat is going to be utilized. What works in a shallow eastern bay may be quite different from that which is required when anchoring on deep rocky bottoms in Southwest Alaska, or, for that matter, inland lakes. This is probably one of life situations where the "one size fits all" approach doesn't give universally acceptable results. (If it ever did.)

I can't imagine Cutter Marine continuing to offer a package that was problematic to their customers and their local usage patterns back east.

I've used the all chain rode because it anchors one better in inland lakes, works great in the mud and sand of the California Delta, helps hold the sharper portion of the bow down into the chop, and, as a side benefit, totally eliminates the slippage problem with the rope rode I've had with my windlass. Works for me where I cruise and fish.

The heavy bow issue doesn't seem to be a problem, although admittedly I don't go out into the ocean swells very often anymore since retiring. The additional 75 ft of chain (over the 25 ft or so normally carried) adds 55.5 lbs to the bow, which isn't all that much on a boat loaded up to the average weight for a CD-22 of about 3000 lbs., and which would be 1.85% of the total. My 150 lb Great Dane Shadow usually goes up into the v-berth when underway and on plane, and this weight transfer even helps the boat ride even better (!). To each his own!!! Joe.
 
Since I am a newbe, this story is kinda funny. While practicing handling my 22' C-Dory on the Potomac River with a buddy who is experienced, I let out my anchor to practice. Low and behold, the chain never stopped. My buddy was astonished to see so much chain. He told me that about 20 feet of chain was normal.

When I went back to Cutter Marine for servicing, I told them that I had this long length of anchor chain. I thought maybe they ordered in bulk and forgot to cut it to length and add nylon rope.

Garry, who owns Cutter laughed :oops: and told me that they purposely put on 100 feet of chain to counter balance the weight of the 90hp Honda, giving the 22' a more stable ride. In addition, you don't need as much anchor line when anchoring. (plus all the other reasons stated in other posts)

I have been reading the posts on this subject and I am going to stick with Cutter's suggestion and keep the chain. They seem to be very knowledgable and having experience in the area that I am going to be boating, so I will keep the chain.

If I ever move to another location, I will consult with a dealer in the area to give me some advice --- or chat with you all. This site is wonderful for sharing ideas and suggestions.

In all my discussions with Gary and Joe at Cutter, the philosophy seems to be "keep it simple" go out and have a good time. For the time being, thats what I'm going to try to do.

Best wishes to you all.

John
Swee'Pea
 
Lets just say I strongly disagree with putting weight in the bow to counterbalance motor weight in the stern. Weight in the bow adds momentum creating a motion called hobby horsing. This may be my over-reaction from decades of sailboats where keeping out of the ends of the boat (and top of the mast) is almost a religion. :smileo

Even on the Great Lakes chain rusts making it very dirty unless you buy it in stainless steel (at, what, $15/foot)?. I know keeping even 6 feet of chain from putting rust everywhere has always been a challenge for me. 6' of stainless on the end of nylon, though isn't that expensive.

My last point against chain is the lack of cushioning. Few boats can carry chain that's heavy enough to lay on the botton and short rodes just run the chain out to it's limit and then STOP.

I'm not sure the conditions on the Great Lakes even approximate the Cheasepeake. But at least 2 of the 3 Great Lakes dealers either operate from very sparse moorings or have pontoon boats as their primary business.

-- Chuck
 
Back
Top