Additional questions on upgrades

That's exactly right about the Wallas, Dr. Bob. One side I swear can exceed 6700 BTUs, and the other side is great for keeping a pot going at a slow boil. The charm of boats in our class is that we can keep things simple and economical, which in the long run translates into greater boating pleasure.

For those of you who are interested, please see the following photo from my album that shows some good pots and pans for the Wallas. We followed Scanmarine's suggestions, and they were dead on. Our teapot comes to a boil rapidly, and the pans are great for heating up canned foods, or making breakfast in the morning. As for cooking meet and other meals that can send a lot of smoke and fat in the air -- we avoid it.

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Not sure if this would be a problem on a C Dory or not , but if you use a furnace that takes its combustion air from inside and vents it to the outside in a small tightly sealed space - it can create a negative pressure in the room. This is not a good thing. It can lead to CO problems, as once the negative pressure builds up - it will attempt to equalize by sucking air down the chimney(if it can't get it anywhere else).

About 12 years ago I had to replace all the B vent propane space heaters in my house with direct vent units. My insurance company informed me that B vent heaters were no longer legal(to code) for use in bedrooms.

Regards, Rob
 
Robert H. Wilkinson":n5m0errj said:
Not sure if this would be a problem on a C Dory or not , but if you use a furnace that takes its combustion air from inside and vents it to the outside in a small tightly sealed space - it can create a negative pressure in the room. This is not a good thing. It can lead to CO problems, as once the negative pressure builds up - it will attempt to equalize by sucking air down the chimney(if it can't get it anywhere else).

About 12 years ago I had to replace all the B vent propane space heaters in my house with direct vent units. My insurance company informed me that B vent heaters were no longer legal(to code) for use in bedrooms.

Regards, Rob
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The Wallas documentation states, "The stove extracts combustion air from the boat and blows the exhaust gases out." While there are many small areas and cracks for allowing air into our cabin, I always take the precaution of opening a window partially to allow for sufficient make up air while using the wallas.

Rich
 
Thanks Rich, I didn't think it would be a problem onboard as most boats aren't that airtight. It is important though to make sure there is a free air opening of at least the same volume capacity as what you are putting out the chimney. A negative pressure situation will also turn a neutral flame into a carborizing flame which will cause a buildup of carbon(soot) in the unit.

One reason for the switch in recent years to direct vent is because the houses today are built far more airtight than back when mine was built. It is amazing to how much warmer your house feels with direct vent heaters because they are no longer drawing cold air in around doors, windows, etc. I even plumbed a pipe from outside into the side of my woodstove so it could draw air from outdoors.

Regards, Rob
 
Robert H. Wilkinson":2ue46kol said:
Thanks Rich, I didn't think it would be a problem onboard as most boats aren't that airtight. It is important though to make sure there is a free air opening of at least the same volume capacity as what you are putting out the chimney. A negative pressure situation will also turn a neutral flame into a carborizing flame which will cause a buildup of carbon(soot) in the unit.

One reason for the switch in recent years to direct vent is because the houses today are built far more airtight than back when mine was built. It is amazing to how much warmer your house feels with direct vent heaters because they are no longer drawing cold air in around doors, windows, etc. I even plumbed a pipe from outside into the side of my woodstove so it could draw air from outdoors.

Regards, Rob
Click to expand...

As a junior high school kid, I used to wonder why our fireplace, even with a Heataltor metal air circulation jacket, was allowed to use up room air at the rate of 2-3 cubic feet a second from the room when running strong, using air that it had just heated up, and now it was being used as combustion air and going up the chimney! I re-engineered that fireplace 1000 times in my head, although I couldn't do much about it at the time. 55+ years later they get it right!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Joe,

Year's ago homes were not sealed as tightly as recent ones. Our house, for example, is lined inside with tinfoil-sided foam insulating boards, and the entire house is wrapped in Tyvac. Building codes today require a make-up air provision, but when our home was made, there was no such contingency made. We have an all-gas house to include stove, fireplace, clothes dryer, water heater and forced air furnace. Not only was I worried that there would be a build up of pollutants in our home, but when burning gas in the interior envelope, air has to come from somewhere, so it came mostly from the basement. This had the possibility of pulling radon into the interior envelope. Our solution was to inject make-up air from the outside into the return air furnace chamber which circulates air at low velocity on a 24-by-7 basis (after it was pre filtered). We are achieving seven air changes per day, which is the ASHRAE recommended standard. It has added a little to our fuel bill, but only to a minor degree.

The irony to all this is that people are actually healthier in an older home! All this high tech stuff, like heat exchangers and tight enclosures are foolish if they don't take into account make up air requirements.


Rich
 
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