AC Panel: Reverse Polarity Red Light

F

Foggy

New member
The manual says it's due to incorrect wiring.
Dealer says it might be due to a problem at the AC source; Honda generator,
home garage socket, dock side power outlet, etc.

The AC panel (Blue Sea Systems) red light Reverse Polarity comes on only if
"Battery Charger" switch is on, not for "Water Heater", "Outlets" or "Refrigerator".

Comments?

Aye.
 
One thought. If you look at this diagram, the light is wired between the neutral (white) and ground (green.) If the reverse polarity light goes on, it means the neutral and green have different voltages, since incandescent lights don't care which way the current flows. They should be ~the same voltage, since the ground and return tie together somewhere upstream.

So, if the light only comes on when the battery charger is on, that means that something is wrong with the battery charger wiring. I'd check the battery charger wiring out and make sure the charger isn't shorted.

Reverse+Polarity+light+circuit.jpg

Boris
 
Nice diagram. No offense, it's Greek to me.

In checking further, Blue Sea Systems say, in their instructions, if the red
reverse polarity light is on it means the hot and ground wires are crossed OR
the hot and neutral wires are crossed. Further, in this state of reverse polarity,
things will charge and work but it is a safety issue of not being grounded.
Sort of Greek to me.

Then the question is what kind of safety issues and how would they manifest?

Danger in plugging into shore power?
Danger in using an on board 120V outlet?
Danger in battery or battery charger damage?

I've never like electric since I welded an insulated screw driver to the edge of a
basement fuse box as I inadvertently touched a buss bar.

Aye.
 
Foggy":1n7lbc9d said:
.
The AC panel (Blue Sea Systems) red light Reverse Polarity comes on only if
"Battery Charger" switch is on, not for "Water Heater", "Outlets" or "Refrigerator".

Comments? Aye.
Click to expand...

There are several possibilities. The most obvious is that the battery charger has the connections improperly wired--specifically the black and white interchanged--the white to hot and black to neutral. (There could be another combination. Looking at the circuit will resolve this issue.


The other possibility, with this only being on with the battery charger, it makes me think that there is a situation where the green wire is connected to the negative battery terminal (and charging circuit) that causes there to be a difference in voltage potential between the white (neutral) and green (ground) I would trace out the green wire, and see if it connects to the boat's negative system. Then disconnect this and measure the voltage difference between the negative circuit and green wire with the battery charger on and with it off. Test both on AC and DC scales. If you see voltage there, then there is an issue with the battery charger, or perhaps some miss-wiring.

The other related question is how is the ground circuit (green wire) handled? Is there a bonding circuit to thru hulls and motor mounts? Is this attached to ground wire. Is there a central point where ground (green), bonding, and DC negative all come together? Is there a Galvanic isolator? What brand is the galvanic isolator, and how is it wired?
 
Thank you for your comments and suggestions.

I am referring this matter back to my dealer and C-Dory
for resolution.

Aye.
 
The potential is both some danger with using battery charger--and more important--some danger of making the water around the boat "hot". This is less of a problem in salt water, but still a real issue. On the other hand, I hear the water up your way is pretty cold this year….
 
Today's update:

I do have a galvanic isolator intended to avoid shocking someone (foolishly) in the
water near the boat. C-Dory did it standard. Brand ? Physically, it is right next to
the ProNautic 1220 battery charger under the sink and stove.

I found the AC outlet (both 3 prong) is dead with AC panel powered and the
"Outlets" switch on. This doesn't surprise me since both areas are scorched.
Tested dead with a multimeter and a low draw AC appliance. No wonder I got
a "Boat Show" discount - maybe they blew out my AC outlet?

Don't know if the dead AC outlet and the Reverse Polarity problems are related
or not. Not my billiwack. Sent photos and update to dealer and C-Dory along
with your analytical post above, Bob. Thanks.

Aye.
 
And, yes, Bob we have cold water every year here, just colder this one.
And yes, it will carry a current.

Cold - yes. Salted - no. They're selling sweatshirts like mad around here:
"Lake Michigan Unsalted".

Be the first in your area to get some...

Aye.
 
Had it not been for health issues, I would be just arriving home from Lake Superior…

With blown 110 V outlets--it suggests a more serious problem--and most likely it is mis wired. However if the boat was used at a boat show, and wired on a circuit where another boat was mis-wired it could have caused the problem. One of the outlet testers would have been a good "investment" at the factory. Being "scorched" does not bode well. Also means C Dory is replacing the GFCI outlets.

No idea what brand/type of Galvanic isolator currently used. The Battery chargers used to be Guest. What you have is an upgrade from what was used on the older 25's. The Galvanic Isolator should prevent both stray and galvanic current issues. Unfortunately many of the in the water deaths are improperly wired marinas.

Please let us know what is found.
 
Back
Top