22 - Some boats 4 sale have single axle trailers, some dual

N

NancyandBud

New member
Seems to me, from my towing experience that the 22 with gear, engine etc would be pretty near the upper weight limit of a single axle trailer.

Anyone want to weigh in on a single axle trailer?

Thanks in advance for you insights.
 
Meade,
I'm sure, regardless of what I say, there will be dozens of reply that say the opposite.
I've owned over 54 boats (not a typo) and towed boats all of my life, that included many Coast Guard boats. As a matter of fact, I had a boat behind me many of the days of my first four years in the CG. I have also been in charge of boats with trailer for the entire CG Atlantic Area and also my second job in life with the Army Corps of Engineers. I have purchased hundreds of trailers for both the CG and the ACOE.
Most all of my trailer life has been on salt water, so I never had the privilege os the non heavy rust issue that those on fresh water are blessed with.
Now, for my input regarding single vice duel axles for the 22... If I was towing long distances, I'd certainly have a duel axle trailer, as you have an extra tire on one side (in most cases) if you have a blow-out. If you are on the side of the road after loosing one tire, you can suspend the bad side (with a line or chain) and limp to a service area, or get off the road and conduct a proper repair, usually without further damage. Also, the duel axle will trail better (if the load is properly balanced and you have the proper hitch weight).
For shorter hauls, I really am happy with a single axle trailer (that is what I have for my 22). It is easy to maneuver in your yard, driveway and a boat ramp, without that awful wheel twist in short turning distances. One less axle, two less springs (or torsion bars) and two less tires and bearing assemblies to replace when they rot.
I do replace my tires very few years (including the spare) and my trailer is six lug with a heavy frame, that is rated to carry my 22 loaded, even with a reasonable safety margin.
 
Steve,

Thanks for the response. Just like everything else, people have different opinions and experiences. But I like to keep an open mind and hear different points of view as I'm often wrong.

Bud
 
Only the 22 on down should even be considered for a single axle. There are plenty of 22's which came with single axle trailers. They are cheaper, and srbaum gives good reasons. I consider them mostly "yard trailers". Our first 22 came with a heavy dual axle trailer, and no issues. The current one came with a single, which seemed adequate, but turned out to succumb to I 10, and its multiple bumps (perhaps a statement on the condition of our interstate system). I had considered replacing it when I first got the boat...but didn't, and should have..

I had towed it many thousands of miles with my truck--this time I was towing with the RV, which has not only a long wheel base, but air-ride, so it stays pretty much level--and the trailer tongue was working overtime--until it folded. No rust, or damage to the tongue--but it was considerably longer than that 2 axle trailer which replaced it (the new trailer rated for 6500 lbs load on the trailer)

Also consider if the trailer is rated for a load of XXXX lbs, or a total capacity, including the 1000 or so lbs. of trailer. My feeling is always get a bit more trailer than you think you will need. If you are only going short haul, smooth roads, then single.
 
There is such a thing as a single axle trailer with a high load capacity....mine is a 5200 pound EZ Loader single. And they make 6,000 pound singles. It's been fine although a tandem would be better towing for all the reasons stated. Now, a 3500 pound single, or whatever it was with the 4" thin tube like Bob's that crumpled, forget that as it is going to fail eventually as proven. Be cautious, they make a similar tandem trailer with the same frame construction and probably would have failed too under those circumstances.
 
I've towed many trailers also. With the exception of a few "lightweight" trailers, I have always ran double axle. But I also run long miles! The only downside is double the cost for tires, brakes, bearings and seals, and turns do scruff the tires more. But the safety advantage for long hauls is worth it for me. Colby
 
Haven't seen it in person, just pics.

147242149828.jpg


147242165298.jpg
 
meade":2siqnzhh said:
Seems to me, from my towing experience that the 22 with gear, engine etc would be pretty near the upper weight limit of a single axle trailer.

Anyone want to weigh in on a single axle trailer?

Thanks in advance for you insights.
Click to expand...

Is it a 1200# axle or a 1700# axle or a 2500# axle or 3500# axle or 7500# axle? All are not created equal. :wink:
 
That trailer type looks pretty familiar: The kneeling feature seems to be common with "load-rite"...!

photo_trailer_4.sized.jpg

The"new" trailer, has center of support further forward, heavier tongue, support under the bow forward, much longer bunks, and full hull support. New_trailer.jpg
 
Bob, I remember when that happened to you, but can't remember, did you have a load equalizing hitch on at the time? If you did, this is my concern for using a LEH with a single pole tongue trailer. The weight distributed to the trailer, would balance just about where your tongue bent. Without the LEH, it would still have a lot of torque in that area where the rest of the frame came together, especially on a single axle trailer. Colby
 
Really like a dual axel trailer,can make it to a safe pull off if 1 tire goes. If I was using a single I would change tires regularly,im changing my tires on dually every 5 yrs ,not going to push my luck,expierenced 2 flats last Jan on I-95 coming from cold to hot states.
 
I don't know the rating of the axle on the trailer in the picture.

Having towed sailboats thousands of miles, all with dual axles, I'm pretty sure that our next boat will have dual axles as well.

I've used pole tongue adapters on many trailers without any problems.

I prefer EOH disc brakes.
 
When my EZ Loader fails I will be buying a tandem. I said that for the first time years and years ago. We have really crappy roads, in general, so it must be really well built. I wonder how sucky adding an axle would be? Anyway, I don't think I'd buy a trailer for a CD 22 that wasn't rated for at least 4500 pounds.
 
Just a thought: I bought a "forklift storage" boat with the single axle (3500) trailer that came with it. I considered this much to light duty to make long trips. I upgraded to two axles, and have had no problems. It's a pretty simple upgrade with basic tools, and is a lot cheaper than a new trailer. Pics on my album.
 
colbysmith":hp9to6e5 said:
Bob, I remember when that happened to you, but can't remember, did you have a load equalizing hitch on at the time? If you did, this is my concern for using a LEH with a single pole tongue trailer. The weight distributed to the trailer, would balance just about where your tongue bent. Without the LEH, it would still have a lot of torque in that area where the rest of the frame came together, especially on a single axle trailer. Colby
Click to expand...

The only load equalizing hitch I have used was on the 25, and in that case, the equalizing bars, were chained to the pole adaptor which was just aft of the point where the aluminum I beams bolted to the Tongue. I could have put a permanent bar bolted to the aluminum I beams, but the pole adaptor made it conveniently removable. Also note how the tongue ties into the trailer frame, not only with the bolts, in front of the winch platform, but with the "T" at the end of the pole tongue, into the I beams. This similar to the construction of my current "Sport Trail" trailer. Most likely this is due to characteristics of the aluminum I beam, vs the galvanized steel frame.
2009_04_05_091.jpg

Both of the lighter trailers have in common, the frame of the trailer is really too short for the boat. Looking at the specs for the largest Load Rite single axle trailer is it rated for 3600 lbs, and a "Bow eye to transom 19'7". We don't know if the distributer bolted in a longer tongue pole? Maybe OK for a yard trailer. In retrospect, I should have switched out trailers shortly after I got the boat home from Virginia... I made the mistake of going by the tires: ST225/15D which had a rating of 2540# per tire--or >5,000 lbs....My mistake, I should have actually looked up the specs of the specific Load Rite trailer. I felt even safer, since I had just put on new load range E with a rated capacity of 2830# (or over 5600#...wrong!!! I had also towed the boat over 7,000 miles with the truck...

I had a choice of used trailers which would fit the boat, ts the shop where the wrecker took us. First thing I did was to check out the specs on the "new" trailer...As well as put new tires on the this rig. There were no brakes on this "new" trailer--so after the trip--E/H brakes were added. I took a calculated chance, having air brakes and a Jake Brake on the RV--that there was enough breaking reserve--and drove carefully--..Probably not the best idea!
 
I think that is a good idea having the EH adapter behind where the side frame y's into the single tongue. I did not understand that before but remember you trying to explain it now. I think as long as your brakes were excellent on the motorhome, you probably wouldn't have any problem, at least on dry pavement. :-) Colby
 
I agree with Steve Baum, no matter what one says on this subject, there will be plenty of opposite thoughts. Since I live in Boise, I have a lot of experience with trailers. We have had boats for 30+ years, the last 2 being a C-Dory 22 and our current 16. We had the 22 for 11 years and made trips as far as Everett, WA, San Francisco Bay via Lake Tahoe, Yellowstone Lake, and Priest Lake, Id (1,000 miles round trip) all on an E-Z Loader single axle. We never had any trailer, tire or bearing issues with that setup. Here is my take on what made that work. First, work with a good dealer who knows the load requirements your craft will put on the trailer. He than recommends the right trailer and tires for your set up. He then assembles the trailer so that you have the correct tongue weight and the axle is positioned correctly. In our case we bought our boat from Sportcraft in Portland they did a good job. Next and this has been stated elsewhere, equally or more important, inspect your tires, especially the sidewall both inside out for any issues that might cause a blowout, and look for any tread damage, check the wheel bearings by jacking up the trailer looking for excessive play or grinding noise. Finally check cold tire pressures with an accurate gauge. I have a compressor and make sure my trailer tires are inflated to the psi stamped on the sidewall, and don't forget to check the spare. I do all this the week before we leave so if we have an issue, we have time to get it fixed. Obviously the 16 is a different animal but I still do all the checks and last year before we left for Yellowstone, I found a leaking wheel seal on the inside. When I took it in to get if fixed, I learned that E-Z Loader had an update for our trailer, which of course we had installed. There is little doubt in my mind we would have had failure on the road if we had started out without the repair. Two other items to think about; there is a chance your tow vehicle lug wrench will not fit the trailer lugnuts and the vehicle jack may not fit under the trailer frame. So it is good to know you have the correct tools before you leave home. This got quite lengthy, but I will say I don't think it makes too much difference if you want a single or tandem as what I said will apply to either of them.
 
Thanks for all of the informative replies to my OP.

As I previously posted, we have towed boats all over the US and BC. These have all been double axle trailers. I did have an axle break on the way back from Pender Harbor in June. An interesting experience to say the least.

In my mind, I'm going to rule out, for consideration of purchase, used boats with single axle trailers. I don't think they offer any advantage and have the disadvantage of only having brakes on two wheels, instead of four wheels which makes a big difference in stopping.

Last December, we were in Sarasota, FL with a Seaward 25. I bought a brand new Magic Tilt trailer made specifically for that boat. Over $4K.

Unfortunately, the trailer brakes failed north of Atlanta while I was trying to stop in a construction zone. I rear ended a woman in a van and she hit the vehicle in front of her.

Lucky for me, State Farm is not charging the accident to my insurance record and is going to sue Magic Tilt.

So when we bought the Compac 23 Pilothouse last year and went to BC to pick it up, I was kind of anxious about the 4 year old Magic Tilt trailer with very small/wide tires, even though they were 10 ply rating. We made it home after $1,200 of repairs on the way home.

I know the 22 isn't overly heavy. A single axle will ride rougher than a double axle trailer because the springs on the single axle have to be stiffer to carry the same amount of weight. Double the tires for sure. At the same time, the tires carry less per tire and that should reduce the wear.

Most boat trailer tires need to be replaced due to age, not because they are worn out (always an exception and I'm sure some here will fit that).

I have used etrailer.com for all of my trailer related purchases for a long time. They have competitive prices, quick shipping, knowledgeable sales reps and excellent return policies. If it is for a trailer, they have it. Can not say enough good things about their service which is more and more of a rarity in today's marketplace.

I also appreciate the civility of members here. It is the one thing I first noticed.

Disagreeing without being disagreeable is very uncommon online.

Nancy has been commenting about all of the gatherings that take place. Looking forward to meeting some members here in a couple of Saturdays.
 
Not always, but as a rule of thumb, if your hubs have a 5 bolt pattern, you have a 3,000-3,500 lb axle. If your hubs have a 6 bolt pattern, you usually will have a 5-6,000 lb axle. With the 6 lug hubs, the hubs are usually physically larger with much larger bearings designed and rated for the heavier weights.

Load range E 15" tires usually have a load capacity of 2,800 pounds each.

If the single axle trailer is of robust construction with a 6,000 lb axle and 15" Load range E tires you should do OK towing a 22.
If it is a single axle and has 5 bolt hubs, it may only be rated for 3,500 pounds capacity.
 
meade":bo7iihbu said:
In my mind, I'm going to rule out, for consideration of purchase, used boats with single axle trailers.
Click to expand...

Each person should do what they prefer, but I'll throw out a counter-idea: That is that a boat with a single axle trailer could work out well, depending on the circumstances. Let's say you find juuuust the right 22 for you, but it's on a single axle trailer. If it's a decent trailer, you can use it to bring the boat home. Then you can purchase just the tandem axle trailer you want at your leisure.

In my case, the "just right" boat had a good tandem axle trailer, but it needed quite a bit of updating (it had sat outside while the boat was stored indoors on a rack). So I almost built a new trailer, albeit with upgraded components that don't necessarily come on a "standard" new trailer. So in some ways it's better than new. BUT, I kind of had to do it this way, because the trailer wasn't really usable as-was, and I wanted to immediately trailer it cross country (and the boat was JUST what I was looking for). If it had had a usable single-axle trailer, I would have later purchased a Pacific Trailer (after researching and seeing various trailers, this would be my personal first choice).

Just a thought, as when buying used I'd rather get the boat I want the most, and so might not want to eliminate otherwise great ones on a less-than-great trailer.

But then you might have very good reasons for wanting to do it another way, and of course I wouldn't have turned down my exact same boat on a fantastically perfect trailer :D
 
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