22 ft. Hunky Dory, Less money

C

captd

New member
C-Brats,
Marc just informed me that they lowered the price on the Hunky Dory to $37,500. God, after all the money I put in that thing I ought to buy it back. It has about every option you can think off. I left the outriggers with it. The stainless work I just completed was over $2500. What a deal!!!
Captd.
 
I just read the for sale listing at http://www.boattraderonline.com/addetail.html?87585077

How many hours on the engines?

2000 C Dory 22 Cruiser, 22' 0'' Hunky Dory, This recent trade in has been painstakingly maintained and upgraded for fishing, camping and adventure cruising. Twin 40 hp Honda outboards, custom stainless top rack with Furuno radar, Furuno GPS (fixed), Furuno depth sounder, VHF radio, Stereo, Xm radio mount and antennae, 20 gal live bait tank, down rigger, s5000 auto helm (hydraulic), 800 lb anchor winch with chain and rode, Hydraulic steering, travel boot, full camper package with screens and canvas (blue), edge bound carpet, privacy curtains, screens for all windows and door, wash down pump, 30 amp shore power service, Wallas diesel stove, red wood shelving under sink, added factory level cockpit boarding ladder off bow, side and climb up on rack, sight fishing pedestal pin seat for top rack (removable), bottom paint. EZ-Loader single axle trailer with brakes and spare tire. This boat is well-traveled and has been used and enjoyed by it's previous owner from Alaska to the Bahamas and has the highest level of equipment of any used C-Dory 22-Cruiser available in the country.



It should sell fast.
 
Just talked to Buzz at Wefings. I'm gonna go see it. The roof rack was a great idea.

Went to see the 1987 22' Cruiser in Utah last two days, and was disappointed. It has the wood grain plywood and that makes it look quite worn. No extras at all, but the hull has been well taken care of.
 
That is not wood grained plywood on the older CD's. It is like a Formica surface and yes it gets to look crummy with age.
I painted mine (1983 model)several years ago with epoxy white paint and it looks like new and brightens the boat.
 
Ok, I just put a deposit on the Hunky Dory! Man, my wife and I are super excited! The extras that Cap'n D installed really sealed it for us. What a great boat.
 
Jack in Alaska":8ldvec53 said:
That is not wood grained plywood on the older CD's. It is like a Formica surface and yes it gets to look crummy with age.
I painted mine (1983 model)several years ago with epoxy white paint and it looks like new and brightens the boat.
Click to expand...

That wood-grained Formica-like stuff is called Decraguard. It's tough stuff and wears well, generally.

Inside the boat, you'd have to be really abusive to get it to show wear.

When it's used on the exterior, it can fade if left out in the sun/ultraviolet light for long periods, like when moored in the open or left on the trailer uncovered.

The "Classic" 1980-86 models had the entire rear cabin bulkhead and door made of Decraguard. With the intrduction of the CD-22 "Cruiser" in 1987 and for several years thereafter, the cabin door was the only exterior item made of Decraguard. Thereafter, the door was converted to white Decraguard, then, more recently, to a clear plastic (Lexan?)

Not too much can be done with the Decraguard once it's really faded, and opaque paint is the easiest answer. The door and/or bulkhead usually look good painted in white or the hull trim color. I like the bulkhead painted in off-white to match the hull, and the door in the trim color.

If you catch the process early enough, you can darken and save the wood-grain appearance of the Decraguard. My CD-22 was 11 years old when I got it, and when wetted down, the wood-grain still looked fine.

I considered a couple of different coating options, and decided to use Varathane Diamond Glaze Polyurethane clear finish on it inside and out on it to shine it up and darken the look. I think I used satin, but it might have been gloss. Had to re-apply the exterior door once, after about 7 years. Still looks good.

One could also use something darker that might hide some of the bleaching/fading as an alternative. I think I remember someone using Cetol on the Decraguard.

Be sure to use something with a ultraviolet inhibitor in it that will limit the rate of deterioration as much as possible. I'd stay away from soft finishes, too.

Whatever one does, they should carefully test/check the new finish out for appearance carefully before committing to the whole project.

Sorry to go off on a tangent, but I know there are folks out there that can use this information!

Joe.
 
Joe, the boat "Little Toot" for sale in Utah has been garaged for all its 20 years, so the exterior including the cabin door is in great shape. What I noticed, and what disappointed me, was the interior.

The wood grain pattern on the formica skin of the marine plywood is of course very thin. On the floor under the table, on the countertops and table itself, the pattern was here and there rubbed off due to scuffing or scratching. In addition to the appearance of wear, seemed to me the whole interior had a '70's look of cheap paneling.

Now, keep in mind this was my first impression of a C-Dory after months of study but never before seeing one in person. So, my expectations were high, and they may have been colored also by the barnyard smell of the interior - no doubt due to the boat being stored in . . . the owner's barn.

Seems to me that if someone could suggest a way of permanently covering the wood grain, like paint or epoxy, that would go a long way to improving the appearance of these vintage boats - which are of course great boats with all the important features of the modern C-Dory.

- Bill -
 
Congrats on your purchase! I always loved the pictures of that seat up on top, a lot of ingenuity went into that rack and seat! You will get lots of enjoyment out of this for sure!
wthattny":1snltasy said:
Ok, I just put a deposit on the Hunky Dory! Man, my wife and I are super excited! The extras that Cap'n D installed really sealed it for us. What a great boat.
Click to expand...
 
Bill-

Thanks for the reply and clarification!

If you want to really "modernize" the boat and cover up all the wood grain, it should be easy, at least theoreticaly.

C-Dory used to advertise that one of the virtues of the boat was that the interior could be removed and reassembled if necessary,

If this is true (I've never done it), one could pull all the screws, brackets and panels out, then paint the panels spray booth style. (I don't know if it's possible to interswitch any of the panels, but if you do find any that are matches, find a way to hide a mark to differentiate them that will show after painting.)

I'm not sure whether I'd use an epoxy or polyurethane paint for sure, the final choice being dependent on which one or whatever else would stick to the plastic surface the best after being roughed up with some sandpaper for "tooth". All else being equal, the polyurethane paints flow out better, get a higher gloss, and are much more flexible and resistant to chipping than epoxies. This may be of great signifigance when applying them over soft or flexible surfaces. Consult several professional customer service representatives from paint companies for advice on the paint selection. Perhaps someone here has some experience with this, too!

You could spray the panels in a spray booth / studio like room, minimizing the dust problem and affording the ease of spraying horizontal panels, multiple coats, and long drying times. Be sure the panels are throughly dry and hardened before turning them over to do the other side.

When you begin to reassemble the panels, add some sort of a colorless and removeable adhesive or bedding compound to the screw holes for a tight fit, since the boat is older and now the screws have been taken out and re-inserted, which loosesns the fit up a bit.

Be sure to let us know how you're progressing here on the thread and take lots of photos to share with us through your album!

Good Luck!

Joe.


wthattny":1nqhd013 said:
Joe, the boat "Little Toot" for sale in Utah has been garaged for all its 20 years, so the exterior including the cabin door is in great shape. What I noticed, and what disappointed me, was the interior.

The wood grain pattern on the formica skin of the marine plywood is of course very thin. On the floor under the table, on the countertops and table itself, the pattern was here and there rubbed off due to scuffing or scratching. In addition to the appearance of wear, seemed to me the whole interior had a '70's look of cheap paneling.

Now, keep in mind this was my first impression of a C-Dory after months of study but never before seeing one in person. So, my expectations were high, and they may have been colored also by the barnyard smell of the interior - no doubt due to the boat being stored in . . . the owner's barn.

Seems to me that if someone could suggest a way of permanently covering the wood grain, like paint or epoxy, that would go a long way to improving the appearance of these vintage boats - which are of course great boats with all the important features of the modern C-Dory.

- Bill -
Click to expand...
 
I don't know that I'm up for a major remodel of "Little Toot". That's why I kinda jumped on the idea of the "Hunky Dory" that Cap'n D just traded in for his C-Ranger tug down at Wefings Marina. So, my wife and I are going down to Eastpoint, Fla next Sunday (4/29) for a look see.

The previous owner probably used it more than anyone excepting maybe Bill and El Fiero in the "Halcyon", so it may be beat up. At least it has everything and the kitchen sink! Little Toot, in contrast, has no upgrades, not even a windlass, and I just don't think I have the time that it would need to bring it up to modern standards.

Might be easy to add electronics, but I was really concerned about the risk that nothing would stick to the current formica-like surface and that I'd have to re-carpenter the entire innards. Engines I can do, but a lot of carpentry is beyond my understanding for some reason, and I assume that there are few if any marine craftsmen here in the mile high city.

So, long story short, we are going to look at a boat way beyond our needs, with radar and who knows what, and I'm avoiding for now the possibly more prudent choice of fixing up and dressing up the '87 model.

However, it may come to that, and I appreciate your great ideas! :)

- Bill -
 
Pat,

I really appreciate your congrats! We haven't committed yet, but I did risk a sizable deposit. I'm counting on Marc at Wefings to treat us right in that regard.

Like you and many others, I've read a lot of Darrel's (Cap'n D) posts, especially about that crazy rack and his pin seat way up there. The weight of the vessel worries me, but man that guy's taken the boat everywhere but the Moon!

So, I figure it works, but we will have a lot to learn about its unique characteristics. What I can't figure is why he never added AC, spending so much time in Mexico and Florida. I'm gonna ask him as soon as I can get ahold of him -- he never seems to sit still long enough.

Maybe when I'm down at Wefings I will be able to log in. If not, I'll let you know what I found when I'm back.

Thanks again! This thing of buying a boat again after 29 years is scary. :crook

- Bill -
 
Seems like the weight of that stuff on the roof would have a negative effect on the center of gravity making for a less stable boat. I'd seriously consider removing that rack if I bought this boat.
 
Yup, Carl, that's what I'm hearing from others also. Ironically, being inexperienced in this, the rack is what really attracted me to this particular boat. So useful! But, now I've got serious doubts. Well, I'm already booked to go see it on Monday, so I'll just have to see if I can determine the risk in a sea trial. Another down factor - the motors have 700 and 900 hours. I'm thinking I should be looking at a different boat, especially since I don't plan any trips out of the sight of land. Thanks for your input.
 
900 hours is not excessive for a 4-stroke outboard. I understand 4-strokes in commercial use ofter go 5,000 hours.
Halcyon had a Honda fail at 2,100 hours and that was unexpected.

You may want to talk to an outboard service person before you reject the boat. How long will it take you to put a thousand hours on your boat? I don't cruise, but do fish a lot and only put 30-40 hours a midwest length season on the motor.

Dale (C-Dory wannabe)
 
Shiawassee":1wgo8luh said:
900 hours is not excessive for a 4-stroke outboard. I understand 4-strokes in commercial use ofter go 5,000 hours.
Halcyon had a Honda fail at 2,100 hours and that was unexpected.
Click to expand...

Dale,

Buzz at Wefings told me something similar, but apparently Bill and El were told that their engines lasted twice as long as normal. So, heck what's the right answer? :roll:

Maybe it matters whether the engines have been in salt water mostly, as were Halcyon's and Hunky Dory's. Halcyon's engine(s) seized up, which might indicate piston/cylinder wear, but I guess it might have been caused by overheating due to loss of fluid in the cooling system somewhere.

I had an inboard engine fail due to corrosion in the intake manifold. Didn't know it until water started coming out of the top of the engine. :shock: I flushed the system after each use, but the boat was probably close to 10 years old when I got it. My kicker motor on that boat (which I still have) was a 60's vintage(?) 18 hp Evinrude and it still runs strong. Anyway, I guess the diversity of opinion means I better do more research pronto.

You are right about how many hours I might add, at least initially. I'm about 4 years from full time retirement if the Lord don't get me first. For now, we plan to cruise during the summer months mainly, and sometimes in the fall. My main concern is being stranded halfway from nowhere on some river, or losing power in the wind on a lake. After all, I'm gonna have precious cargo (!) and she may not let me have another boat.
 
Personally, not being the one buying the boat, I think all the positives far outway the 'cognitive dissonance' about engine hours. I once asked asked Les about the over 700 hours metered on a 22' foot a 75 Honda. He checked it over and told me it wasn't anything to be concerned about. If this boat has been meticulously maintained as advertized, has all the bells and whistles noted, and is being sold by as reputable a dealer as Wefings, it sounds like a great deal to me. Just my two cents.
 
If 4 cycle outboards are anything like auto engines, the ones that are highway driven and used heavily outlast the ones that are rarely used. The frequent, hard usage evaporates the moisture and contaminants from the crankcase that can cause corrosion and damage seals in engines allowed to just sit around.

I had a brother in law who drove one of the early, cheap, Ford Ranger pickups over 280,000 miles with only a transmission overhaul. He traveled all over Kansas installing and repairing windows, so drove hundreds of miles in a day.

John
 
Agree with Dr John, the cause of death of many outboards is neglect and not running. Some of the new 4 strokes are getting 4000 to 7000 hours in commercial use (run every day).

As for the weight--I would not worry too much, as the dory form is loaded down, (weight in the bottom of the boat and cabin) the boat becomes more stable. The boats are basically very stable.

As long as compression is good, and oil analysis is good, then the engines should go for a number of more years.
 
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