2005 Honda 90 - which prop?

Let me know how the change of prop worked out. Regards the GPS matter, I had no idea it could be programmed to compensate for the variable local conditions while underway!
 
Depending on "drift, current, and wind", a GPS indication of true "speed over ground" is difficult to attain.
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I will also have to disagree with my good friend Barry. The GPS measures only sped over the ground...period. The speed thru the water, set and drift are all other functions which affect speed thru the water, vector made good and course.

Bud, You want that Permatrim to be just on the surface, with a little water over it-it is running on the top, not deep under the water.

Often motors are too deep in the water.

A 22 with a couple of people and light boat should hit 30 mph and close to 6000 RPM with a Honda 150, and 13.5 x 15 SS prop. As Barry says, there are all sorts of variations: cup, rake profile etc which will affect a prop's performance. Two people who know the most about outboard props are Tom Clark in the Seattle Area, and Ken Reeves, with Prop Gods in FL.
 
Bob,

That is just where it was running. Very pleased with the performance improvements.

With a Honda 90 I may be going as fast as I can go. Dunno

Put on the 3 blade 15" prop tonight. Will try it out on the Mississippi River on Saturday near Galena, IL
 
I agree with Bob. The cavitation plate (motor height) being at the surface of the water, while planning, is key, and the first thing to get dialed in. It sounds like Nancy and Bud have done that already.

I ended up having to raise my motor 2 holes before even thinking about trying a different prop.

Raising the engine also resulted in a huge improvement in steering effort since my boat has the old school teleflex cable/sheath type steering. Mine was way too stiff/hard to turn when running at speed, and much better now.

I'm currently running a 3 blade14x13 which let's me get to my engines Max rpm (5800) and a smooth water cruise of 24mph at 4600rpm getting 4.9mpg.

My other prop is a 3 blade 13.25x19. No bueno!

These were the props that came with the boat when I bought it last year.
 
thataway":rtk0gkw4 said:
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A 22 with a couple of people and light boat should hit 30 mph and close to 6000 RPM with a Honda 150, and 13.5 x 15 SS prop. As Barry says, there are all sorts of variations: cup, rake profile etc which will affect a prop's performance. Two people who know the most about outboard props are Tom Clark in the Seattle Area, and Ken Reeves, with Prop Gods in FL.
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Our 2005 22 has a sticker at the helm saying max HP is 100 min 70.
 
Since my good friend "Bob" has in this situation disagreed with my statement that "current, drift, and wind" would affect your attempt to "accurately determine top speed" using a GPS, perhaps he will explain his theory given potential adverse sea conditions as mentioned?
 
For a run where there is significant current, the average between runs against and with the current were necessary to determine speed across the ground. In the old days, even 0.1 knot of current was accounted for in calibrating a paddle wheel log. One would make a run over a mile between fixed land based or markers which were not dependent on current and time the run. When doing predicted log races, the speed across the ground is the most important factor, to arrive at the waypoint at the predicted time. Multiple factors will determine that speed thru the water.

For example a prior owner did fuel burn curves for my current 25. They were with and against the current. For all practical purposes, I use an average. But with a flow meter, and GPS, the range is accurately available.

For most of us, the amount of current is minimal in relation to the total speed of the boat. But if one was running the passes in PNW then current becomes a very significant factor. In any case, GPS measures the speed across the bottom or land.

Lets say we have a current of 1 knot. The boat goes 30 knots at WOT. If you are getting only 18 knots at WOT--there is an issue. If you are getting 28 knots at WOT, then it may well be due to the current difference.

The post stated "Smooth water, no wind"
 
Just thought I would try to add some info. We just purchased our 19 Angler with an ETEC 90. When I sea tested, (in a lake) it had a very poorly maintained 3 blade aluminum prop, 13.5 x 15. It was a very nice boat setup with performance that seemed pretty clear was prop related.

I did as much research as possible, and installed a Turning Point 4 blade stainless wheel with exactly those specs, 13.5 x 15.

First time out today, pretty windy (22 gusty knots) with 1-2 foot chop. The boat ran great, easy to get on plane, I mostly cruised about 3000 RPM, I did not spend time doing much documentation, just trying to get the feel.

The trim tabs were useful to get on plane, but I pretty much raised them to neutral ASAP, I did not like the handling much with them extended, even though it did drop the bow a bit. I am thinking my trim and 4 blade brought the stern up, and the tabs were making me skate.

My biggest challenge was docking, I have sailing been in a center console skiff, which is like docking a canoe. The wind made that Dory cabin push the Angler all over the marina. I drifted too close to another boat, and while everything turned out fine, it was a wake up call. It is shallow there, and trimmed up, I could not get much rudder authority or propulsion.

Love my new boat. I read "River Horse", and got the C-dory bug. Then last year, my wife and I retired to our beach house, on the island, and ended up making a lot more foul weather trips. Our average depth is 3 feet, and in a good northern blow, we can get stranded in 12 inches of water. Low draft and weather protection!

We still have the 19' Carolina skiff, which can navigate a puddle.
I will report back after a few weeks of running.
 
I have a CD25 with twin honda 90hp. BF90A.
Here is a snapshot out of water from a while back:
C_Dory_25_02_035.thumb.jpg

Does this look too low by an inch or so? I guess I need to get out and check. I believe the prop is 13.25x17.

I always put the motors full down from the helm control and use the trim tabs to adjust bow. I wonder if I don't put the motor down all the way, when on plane and bow is up if the angle would be better? I do get a lot of splash between the engines, but not what is "normal".

I always seem to peak at WOT around 5200-5400.
 
Your are probably "propped" correctly. Your best trim is not with engines all of the way down. To get the best speed and efficiency on plane. Bring the boat to a plane with trim tabs down, engines down. Then bring the tabs up to near neutral, as long as the boat seems to be running level. The gradually bring both motors up--about mid range. There will be some bow rise. But the RPM will increase, and you probably will be close to 6000 RPM with that boat and motors.

The Permatrims should be running right on the surface of the water when properly trimmed and on a plane.
 
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