2005 19 angler bilge pump

rbfconstruction

New member
Hi, I have an automatic bilge pump at the stern, in a slight depressed area between the gas tanks. I am guessing the automatic part is that when I turn the motor off, it goes on for about 10 seconds.
Yesterday, out and about local (Long Beach coast) I noticed that I could not make it go on (switch at the helm) and the light on the on position did not light. It did go on when I shut the motor off though.
Questions:
Is the button to the left of the switch a reset? a fuse? (clear rubber coated)
Should the exit hole for the bilge have a clip gate (as to not let water in?

Any suggestions would be great. I did go through the forum but for some reason the search button returns me to a blank page.
I am not a wrenched and I am even worse at computers.
thank you
Richard
 
The plastic covered button is a thermal circuit breaker. It may only be for the manual part of the bilge pump--the automatic may be wired to the battery or a bus bar near the battery with only a fuse in line.

Some of the bilge pump discharge hoses do have a one way valve--problem is that they often hang up--and will not allow water passage, or will allow back flow.
 
There are a lot of instructions as to wiring a bilge pump but a paucity of instruction as to the hose connections.

Here's a picture of a pump and hose installation. Note that there is a hose loop above the waterline, between the pump outlet and the overboard. This prevents backflow. In addition, the shower pump in my C-25 wouldn't work until I added a vented loop in the outlet.

dualbilgeinstallstep4.sized.jpg

Raritan_Vented_Loop.thumb.jpg

Boris
 
Now I am curious if it has a loop. I hope so, but no way of knowing without pulling the port side gas tank. I was curious about the flapper because the discharge hole has a dog (pin) opposite each side as if it used to hold one.

appreciate you guys.

Richard

I also will try to figure how to post picks as soon as my daughter can get by


I guess I will start with a check on fuses, followed by the switch, followed by the panel
 
I am guessing the automatic part is that when I turn the motor off, it goes on for about 10 seconds.
Yesterday, out and about local (Long Beach coast) I noticed that I could not make it go on (switch at the helm) and the light on the on position did not light. It did go on when I shut the motor off though.

Hmmmm. Ok, lets start here. The "automatic" means the pump will come on when there is water in the bilge. Either the pump itself will have an internal float (or worse yet, is one that turns on every 30 seconds for a few seconds, and if it feels the resistance of water will keep spinning, or if no resistance, shuts back down. This is not good in that these kinds of pumps draw electricity even when they are not needed!), or has a separate float switch. The manual part is where you turn it on at a switch. Sometimes these pumps are installed with a switch that sits in the "auto" position, or you turn on to run manually.

I can think of no reason that your pump should automatically run as soon as you turn the engine off. If it is wired correctly, the pump should go on when it's internal or external float switch senses water in the bilge, or when you turn on the switch. The light will either indicate power from the switch when it's turned on, or that the pumps float switch has switched on, depending upon how everything is wired.

My recommendation is to study a bilge pump wiring diagram, figure out how your's is wired, and go from there. In the end, your pump should come on when you flip the switch, or when a float switch senses water!
 
So yes it turns out the auto float switch in the bilge pump was bad. I replaced it with a new pump. The auto part of the pump never worked. (since I have owned the boat. I keep learning.
Also turns out the pump going on for ten seconds after shutting down the motor.
incorrect. What I was hearing (thought it was the pump) was the trim tabs going into up position.
go figure...

thanks again,
Richard
 
What you describe as a “dog” is actually a protrusion for a wrench which is placed inside the thru hull to keep it form turning as the nut is tightened on the inside.

Most of the bilge pump hoses on the C Dorys I have owned do have a. “Loop”. The air breaker as Boris described is vital in certain installations...it would keep as much water from back siphoning. The problem is that some get plugged up with salt, since they are in essence a one way valve to the athosmphere. In a few applications, I have converted these to a small tube which goes to to the outside of the hull. (But not in C Dorys)
 
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