110 V Receptacle Upgrade for Ranger 25

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IdleUp

New member
110 V Receptacle Upgrade for Ranger 25

One thing about boats – no matter how many receptacles there are, you’ll always need another in a different place. Such is the case of the Ranger 25. The main motorvation for the upgrade was to add a receptacle in the rear bilge area for my BoatSafe Heater and what ever else comes up, like charging an Aux battery etc. For location - I chose the starboard side right under the hatch where it could easily be reached.

After snaking a few pieces of Romex both fore and aft, the power panel is removed by just four screws. Make sure the boat is “Unplugged” before you remove it and seek qualified help if your not keen with wiring and or 110 volts. In most cases, the wiring is spread out more than the opening, so you might need to “jimmy” the panel around to get it out.

On my power panel, the lower right bank of breakers had an extra non-used breaker, so I dedicated that to my BoatSafe heater plug in the bilge. This way I could easily turn it on and off from the helm. For the remaining two receptacles, I tapped into / or piggy-backed, two other breakers marked for receptacles on the panel.

I mounted both the cockpit and bilge receptacles with two outdoor “plastic” boxes with just a good grade of double stick tape, and sealed the wire in the inlet with silicon.

Since I had the power panel out, I also decided to put a needed second plug in the forward bunk area for plugging in a TV, fan or whatever. The third plug I added to the cockpit area for plugging in tools, a TV or ect. The box I used inside is designed for surface mount and can be found in any electrical supply house. It makes for an easy installation by just screwing the base down then attaching the rec & cover.

Thanks!




rec1.jpg


Image showing the 100V panel removed. Make certain you're unplugged before removing the panel and while working on it. If your not sure - get qualified help!


rec2.jpg


Cable was ran over bulkhead and directly into the panel area.


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Close-up of the flush mount rec box in the bunk area.


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Plug for the BoatSafe heater on the starboard side by the Smarcraft Module can be used for chargeing batteries or whatever. I used "Ground Fault" breakers on both the outdoor boxes


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Close up of the plastic outdoor type box - I ran the 14/2 w ground Romex in the box then sealed the the inlet with silicon.



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Plug is barely visible from the cockpit area yet available when needed.


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BoatSafe heater sits neatly along the port side of the engine.
 
Please don't take this as a criticism, because as usual you did a nice job. But using Romex or household wiring is not approved in marine environment. I make this comment for future use and for those others who may want to put in extra 110 volt sockets. The usual given reason is that solid wire is more likely to fatigue than stranded wire, which is marine approved. I know that marine wire is more expensive, and easier to find. However, if the boat goes through a marine survey at some point, most marine surveyors will reject the wiring. Looking at the first picture, it appears that the factory 110 volt wire is AWG stranded and tinned copper wire designed for the marine environment, which is proper to use.

The cockpit plug should have a cover. I believe that you properly used a GFI outlet there and in the engine room.
 
No problem Bob, I follow what your saying however, as long as you secure the solid Romex so it's not swaying or moving around in the boat, it will work as good as stranded wire and outlast the boat itself.

Regarding the rec, covers - I deliberately don't install them because to me there is nothing more frustrating than having to use two hands to plug something in. In addition, with the cover installed you can't plug in a transformer power supply like the type used on rechargeable drills, and portable TV's!

Thanks!
 
All boat wiring should be terminated with a ring terminal when attached to the panel. One cannot use crimp terminals on solid wire. Covers are recommended, if not required, because it can easily corrode in a marine enviornment. I agree with Bob that you should use tinned, stranded wire for all boat wiring, DC or AC.
 
Well, all I can say is; myself and thousands of other guys, are using Romex wiring in boats with plenty of success. I’ve installed Heart 2-4K inverters with full wiring in almost every one of my boats when I lived in Florida, and never had a cable fail – or a connection open up in the past 30 years.

It’s sort of like buying parts for a Mercrusier gas engine, in most cases, you can buy the same exact part for 1/3 the price from an automotive shop. This Marine / RV pricing thing is out of control. Anyhow, there’s nothing to stop someone interested in the project from buying the stranded cable if they like.

I think for the most part we’re losing site of the use here – it’s not a patrol boat or rescue boat we’re taking about here, it’s for “recreational use”.

The very worst that can happen is my heater won’t kick on or my portable TV won’t work!!
 
Not to beat a dead horse, but this is against ABYC standards, and most surveyors will not pass this. I have seen boats where the wiring had to be replaced before the survey could be passed. If there was a fire, and it was found that something was not to ABYC code, added by the owner--it could be possiable that a claim could be voided.

It can be more than just not working--you can arc, start a fire, have a loose wire in the bilge, more corrosion and increased resistance, etc--granted that this can happen with proper marine wire (which is tinned and a greater diameter for the same "size". ).

Are you putting this wire in raceways? This is the way that all wiring was installed in my trawler. Most smaller boats do not do this--and I assume that you are using electrical ties to secure the wire to other wiring, and more solid items. Wires need to be supported every 18"--and I prefer 3" in places where there can be stresses or bends. Sometimes this degree of support is very difficult to achieve when putting into an already built boat.

The only reason I am making an issue, is that I if others do the project--I would encourage doing it to ABYC standards.
 
I agree strongly with Thataway. Many codes come to be because of a problem that occurred (usually resulting in a fire or death) and they are meant to prevent future losses.

It isn't about what we have been able to get away with for years, it's about doing it right. What if a surveyor didn't catch the problem?
 
What do you really think is going to happen to the wire, there’s one piece of Romex wire that is sheathed with a jacket and secured to the panel, the wires are wrapped around a screw head. The other end goes directly to a fireproof sealed receptacle box and the wires are wrapped around screw heads there as well. Like every other wire in the boat, it is secured every 18”.

By the way, it’s my boat - not the surveyors – half those guys don’t even have a clue what they’re looking at or for during an inspection. In addition, I don’t buy a boat or improve it for someone else, or the surveyor.

While I appreciate all your concern, I feel you’re making a mountain out of a mole-hill! Read my lips; “ it’s a 25 ft private cabin boat” It’s not a ferry or cruise ship transporting the public.

It’s just a plug for a TV - there’s no heart machines or respirators hooked up to this circuit for life support.

Thanks!
 
Idle Up, I agree with you on what you did. Have done it myself many times, and in home inspections, have been cited for "amateur wiring" that did not meet code. It worked fine, was safe, etc, etc but "did not meet code". In this case, the boat code is ABYC.

I was lucky some of my wiring didn't cause a fire, even if it was not due to the wiring, the insurance probably wouldn't have covered the damage. I think Bob's concern is valid, hope you never get "tested" by an insurance company. Your choice, go for it.

I try, in all cases to follow code now at home, or ABYC if at possible, on the boat.

BTW, I have three EE degrees but it doesn't mean I'm a great electrician. :lol:

Great Looking R-25.

Charlie
 
So everyone is aware - the A.B.Y.C. (American Boat & Yacht Council) writes standards based on a consensus of government, industry and private sectors. Standards compliance is voluntary and has no enforcement powers or mechanism of enforcement.
 
IdleUp":2wcwmodt said:
So everyone is aware - the A.B.Y.C. (American Boat & Yacht Council) writes standards based on a consensus of government, industry and private sectors. Standards compliance is voluntary and has no enforcement powers or mechanism of enforcement.
Click to expand...

Don't mean it ain't a good idea! :D
 
Don't get me wrong I'm a firm believer in the ABYC guidelines and even have their electrical PDF on my computer. I'm just saying this isn't a perfect world, and neither is our boats or the components within. The ABYC is a guideline, many captains choose to do things the way they have in the past - I'm not saying it's right or wrong.

Even though there are building code requirements for resident's, I can find maybe a 20-30 building violations even in the best homes. Like I said, this isn't a perfect world.
 
Years ago I bought a rebuilt Proline center console boat from a friend who was and electrician. He had completely wired the boat himself and did a beautiful job. Problem was he didn't use any tinned or marine grade wire. He used appropriate sized wire and good quality industrial control cable. On the batteries he used welding cable. Little by little I had to replace ever wire on the boat due to corrosion. It would begin at the terminal and creep up the wire under the insulation. For that reason I use only tinned wire and marine grade terminals with the proper heat shrink and contact paste. It takes very little corrosion on a 12 volt circuit to cause problems. On a 120 volt circuit the problem isn't as pronounced. For me the marine grade cable is a lot easier to use and being multi stranded a lot more forgiving than solid wire where vibration is a problem. From the pictures Idleup posted it appears he did a very good job and I'd be really surprised if he ever has a problem with it.
 
IdleUp":hlhcjvb7 said:
What do you really think is going to happen to the wire
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I think that in ten to thirty years, depending on a variety of factors, there's a fair chance that the wire will part someplace inside the insulation due to vibration and/or corrosion. The problem will likely be invisible to whomever might own the boat at that time (if this one makes it that long without a rewiring caused by a surveyor and an insurance company). It could then arc and cause a fire, but would more likely just stop working.

IdleUp":hlhcjvb7 said:
By the way, it’s my boat - not the surveyors
Click to expand...

Frequently the way I feel when beset by bureaucrats. ;)

It's yours until you sell it. There will probably be a survey, and this probably won't pass.
 
TomRay":38pfhi8z said:
IdleUp":38pfhi8z said:
What do you really think is going to happen to the wire
Click to expand...

I think that in ten to thirty years, depending on a variety of factors, there's a fair chance that the wire will part someplace inside the insulation due to vibration and/or corrosion. The problem will likely be invisible to whomever might own the boat at that time (if this one makes it that long without a rewiring caused by a surveyor and an insurance company). It could then arc and cause a fire, but would more likely just stop working.

IdleUp":38pfhi8z said:
By the way, it’s my boat - not the surveyors
Click to expand...

Frequently the way I feel when beset by bureaucrats. ;)

It's yours until you sell it. There will probably be a survey, and this probably won't pass.
Click to expand...

There ain't much that will last on a boat in 10-30 years, so the wire job will just be one of many, many, other problems that arrive with time

The only thing I'm really worried about breaking in the next 10-30 years is me! :lol:
 
IdleUp":308wxbt1 said:
There ain't much that will last on a boat in 10-30 years, so the wire job will just be one of many, many, other problems that arrive with time

The only thing I'm really worried about breaking in the next 10-30 years is me! :lol:
Click to expand...

You might be surprised. I sell 20 and 30 year old boats all the time, and many have lots of original equipment (or 15 year old upgrades) installed. How do you think we know that solid wires break from vibration over time? ;)

Went to list an old C&C 30 today. Nice boat, in great shape. Has solid AC wires, very visible. Soon, a surveyor and insurance company will be complaining about them. ;)
 
I guess it depends on the application, but I assure you there are hundreds of boats in Florida with Romex wiring. Mostly older boats. The reason is, on older boats the owners can't afford to re-wire the whole boat with stranded tinned wire, so Romex is widely used for re-wiring and adding utilities.

Romex is actually pretty tough wire - About 12 years ago when I moved to VA, I needed to get some power from a temp pole to the job site. I had 250 ft roll of 12/2 w grd in my garage and quickly wired a rec box on one end and a plug on the other. That same cord has has help build 15 homes and numerous docks. I'll bet it's been run over 1000 times with dump trucks, loaders and even a few dozer's sitting on a ballast rock, it's been outdoors, rain snow, salt, and you know what, while it has a few battle wounds on it - that Romex cord still works even today.
 
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