'03 22 Cruiser Work in Progress

WeekiTiki

New member
OK, so all seems good with the motor now

Been told to go run it hard due to valves having carbon build up

Fueled and ready to go

But:

While replacing aft bilge pump which looks pretty decent

I've run across this which does not...

P1000735-XL.jpg
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Got to be some way to keep these fuel cells in place

Without all the holes drilled in the floor

What would or have y'all already done?

Bet there's a thread on here already
 
Getting an idea of just how light these boats are

Not much floor there

Certainly not my old John Allmand where the gunnels were one inch thick

Going to have to cut this mess out

Guess that wood is what we'd call 02 "oh too" thin

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Those are screw holes where a strip of material (metal, wood or fiberglass was screwed in to help hold the tank in place. There may have been some "straps" also screwed in.

Best practice is to over drill the hole, and check for core moisture. If only a little, then clean out the wet material, and fill with thickened epoxy. The Marine Tex is a little thicker than I like, and "neat" (unthickened) epoxy should be painted on the adjacent core material.

Yes, the inner layer laminate is relatively thing. The core makes it more like and "I" beam, and gives it a lot of strength. The outer layer is considerably thicker.

The best practice, after you have filled the holes, and addressed any core issue, is to fiberglass a piece of material--foam, wood, PVC lumber in place as a batten to put screws into to both hold the tank in place, and perhaps to hold battery boxes if they are in the center in place. Screws into PVC lumber for example, will not cause any "core problems". The boat will then be good for the next 50 years.
 
Yes, the strip of starboard and starboard bulkhead were there,
along with the strap that looks to have never been undone

Port side seems to be good, screws are tight

Actually think I'll just temporarily fill these holes

Go run the boat out of fuel

Then remove the tanks and fiberglass as you say "a batten" in place for each

There's 17 years of gunk under and behind those tanks

The batteries and isolation switch are in the starboard rear locker,
up and away from the bilge
 
Is there not a space under those holes that would hold water?

So I enlarge the holes in order to get a necked-down hose inside to vacuum them out

Have no clue how much water could be there

It's saturated pretty good

Could see water puddling in the largest hole

And when I opened up the smaller ones with a screwdriver, water came out
 
The water will be in the core. If you can keep water out of the area, let the holes "breath"--that with some heat may help to dry out. But, if you see water pooling, that suggests some significant wet core in that area. The "space" there is fill with balsa core.

Even though the other side appears to be "sealed" experience is that often water intrusion still occurs.

The next issue is to find out how much core is wet, and if there is any break down the core.

My 2006 boat had the "cleats" or battens glassed in--hopefully that has been the practice since then.
 
Yea, this is poor construction

I'll glass it in the way it should have been originally

But for now it's temporarily plugged with bolts, washers and silicone



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Finally put the boat in the water Thursday

Maybe put 60 miles on it

Sea fog rolled in mid afternoon and we, dog an I stayed out the night

Little Honda 75 burned about half a tank

I was really feeling my decrepitness with all the bending over in the berth

This thing is tight gerg.gif
 
Have come to the conclusion that I'm just going...

To do away with those plastic bulkheads forward of the fuel cells

Thinking I'll glass in all the screw holes

And just 5200 the small strips back down

I like the ability to see the fuel levels

Suppose these were just aesthetics anyway, right?

Too bad they're not simply removable for cutting-boards :D
 
In my 2004 22 there were no covers. I liked seeing the fuel level also. Wish I could see the level on my 25 but they are under the cockpit sole. As far as tight crawling into the berth, it gets easier with muscle memory. The other alternative is to sleep on the dining table or making the opening bigger.

Tom
 
WeekiTiki":reedj4zn said:
Yea, this is poor construction

I'll glass it in the way it should have been originally

But for now it's temporarily plugged with bolts, washers and silicone



P1000737-XL.jpg[/img]

I would stay away from silicone except for the for the acrylic glazing in the bomar hatch. Nothing sticks to silicone (residue).
 
Honestly think I'll have to cut some of this out in order to

Dry out the interior

Looked to be pretty wet

Since I'm not familiar with how bad this balsa decays

Have no idea what the extent will be yet

It's a shame that they drilled into the floor at all

Especially just to add some BS that wasn't needed
 
My boat had the same issue though the wet core was not extensive.
I drilled test holes till dry core was found and was able to remove most of the wet core.
I taped off the holes except for the end ones as they were pretty much in a line.
I got an aquarium air bubbler pump to move air through there for most of the summer. The sun got the core nice and warm and the air movement did the job of drying the core.
I filled the core with an epoxy-microballoon mix and the holes with a stronger epoxy-Cab-O-Sil mixture.

Check the aft sides of the cockpit over the chines, I found some wet core there too.
 
Chester":3lmoznh0 said:
My boat had the same issue though the wet core was not extensive.

Thank you

Any thoughts as to what I might do are truly appreciated

Doubt I'll do anything until after I meet with some of the folks on here in March

At Hontoon Island
 
WeekiTiki":35c8q05s said:
Chester":35c8q05s said:
My boat had the same issue though the wet core was not extensive.

Thank you

Any thoughts as to what I might do are truly appreciated

Doubt I'll do anything until after I meet with some of the folks on here in March

At Hontoon Island

Since the balsa is end grain, often the water doesn't make it very far into it. I'd recommend using a smallish drill bit (with tape on it to gauge depth) and drilling a few holes through the topside fiberglass and into the core in the area around the moisture. Start out an inch or so away and work your way out until you find dry core. That will quickly give you a sense of how far it goes.
 
rogerbum":3lvn2u2m said:
...drilling a few holes through the topside fiberglass and into the core in the area around the moisture. Start out an inch or so away and work your way out until you find dry core. That will quickly give you a sense of how far it goes.

I'll do that, thanks
 
Of course the window latch went flying into the drink

See all the threads regarding same

Remarks are pretty funny

Think my favorite was "they never fly off when the boat is in the driveway"

snork.gif
 
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