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I look at my kicker not just as an emergency backup and trolling motor but a way to save hours on my main. This year during our epic salmon season, I would use the main engine for 20 minutes to get out to the salmon grounds then shut it down and troll with the kicker for up to 8 hours. So far...

No Capt Cat. The 140 is on a 21' Whaler.

My boat lives in a salt water slip 9 months a year. I made a short hose connection with a valve and quick connect fitting that stays attached to the flush connection on my Suzuki df 140. After a day on the water, we just hook up the hose, open the valve and let it flush while we're unloading...

Thanks for pointing me to the motor and Boats.net.

I suspect that Peter is right that the relay or its associated wiring is bad. But not being able to find that part, I installed a double throw, double pole switch with a 10 amp fuse straight to the motor and mounted it on my dash. It works perfect. I just can't operate the T&T from the side...

it does have switches both on the throttle and and on the side of the engine. I can hear the switch click. So i suspect the relay also. I know this isn't the proper way to go but I just purchased a $6 25amp three way switch from Frys and see if it will operate that way. :phone

I'm not sure what you mean by continuity. The plug comes right out of the relay. Two wires, green and blue. I believe that you should get 12v either positive or negative between the two when you hit the switch.

I purchased the motor and before hooking it up, I tested it with 12 v and it worked. Plugged it in on motor and it didn't. I tested the voltage coming out of the motor plug and didn't get any voltage. It clicks when the button is pushed but no 12 v coming out. I checked the two 15 amp...

I will add to the kudos to Ace Line Hauler. I broke a part trying to disassemble the thing for cleaning. Even though it was my fault, they're sending the replacement part. I love companies with that kind of customer service.

So here's what I've found so far. There was no fuse in the circuit. The motor's ground was good. I removed the whole unit and opened up the motor housing. The motor was rusted and barely moved. I can replace the motor assembly for $231. But fear that something else may have caused the motor...

There are a lot of smart people in this group. I won't be back at my boat for a few days, but I will check for fuse, ground, motor continuity. Before ordering a new motor.

I'll look for that fuse. That would be nice if that was it. Though I've put 12 v straight to the plug going to the pump and get nothing.

That was extremely helpful. Thank you so much. Matt

Ken, Where did you find the new motor for $300? On Boats.net, a new unit costs $1300. Is there a preferred Honda parts source for C-Brats? Matt

Hello. I'm new to the C-Dory world having purchased a 1984 Angler 16 with a 30 hp Honda motor. I recently bought a 1999 Honda 50 hp with a trim/tilt that doesn't work. I can hear a click when I hit either the remote or local switch. But don't get any motor sounds, I've disconnected the 2...