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This is just a reminder to those of us running hydraulic steering... hydraulic is great, but it's not maintenance free. I recently had a leaky steering cylinder and changed the seals. (a relatively simple task.) When I went to bleed the system, I decided against using the bottle of fluid I had...

Do you have a secondary motor that can be steered independently (a kicker)? Using the kicker to motor a few miles to the other marina shouldn't be a problem, assuming fair weather/water conditions.

As far as I know, all portable fuel cans/tanks have more physical capacity than what they are rated to carry. For instance, my "5-gallon" gas cans can actually hold about 6 gallons if I fill 'em all the way up to the rim. Of course, you're not supposed to fill 'em all the way to the rim. You're...

Before I sold it, I installed a pair of 24-gallon saddle tanks in my old 16-foot Angler (write up HERE). I'd think the 18-gallon units might be better suited for a Cruiser.

If the voltage to the unit is dropping significantly when the glow plug is on, it's likely that the wires are too small.

Sunbeam - You're spot on with your description of the green epoxy being like hard cheese. And - in my opinion - I'd say that there is at least some benefit to drilling holes for through-bolts while the epoxy is still green. There is (as you mentioned) significantly less dust created by the...

tsturm - I don't know if the existing bedding/sealer was 5200 or not. But, a bit of heat certainly did the trick. I'll be keeping that de-bonding method in my tool bag for sure. Boris - Thanks for the info on ordering debonder. Maybe next time I have a quick project I'll have had the foresight...

Here's a comparison between the new backing plate that came with the v700 (top) and the old backing plate that was installed with the S400 (bottom). And this is the new backing plate sitting on top of the old one. You can see the 'bump-out' in the new plate, as well as the additional bolt...

Its almost a direct swap. The main cut-out is identical, except for the need to make an additional bump-out about the size of half a dime to clear a cast boss in the new unit. And two of the three mounting holes line up correctly. In fact, the new aluminum backing plate has holes for both bolt...

Well... I rigged up a heat gun pointing at the old windlass, and in the 3 or 4 minutes it took to set up a bottle jack in the anchor locker, the windlass was warm and the sealant was soft enough that I could have just pushed it up by hand. No harm, no foul. Now I just have to clean up the old...

And, just a thought here... but, I don't really need to seal the windlass to the deck, do I? I mean, so what if water weeps in underneath and drips into the anchor locker? Now, sealing the exposed edges of the deck core itself, that's another matter. I'll definitely be addressing that situation...

Thanks Bob. I hadn't though about using a debonding agent. I wonder where I could get something like that...?

Thanks for the input Dave. That's the direction I was leaning, unless there was a significant contingent that advised against it. Now I just have to figure out how to pry the old unit off the foredeck. It seems to want to stay where it is. Maybe a bottle jack pushing from underneath will help...

In the next couple of days, I'll be replacing the broken Sprint 400 windlass on my CC26 with a new V700. I have a couple of choices on hand for bedding the new windlass: Life Calk and Bed-It butyl tape. Given these choices, which would you use?

I agree. But, apparently - like most manufacturer's associations - NEMA doesn't. They care more about the financial security of its members than the safety of boaters. :roll:

Nice job on the project. How did you measure the amp draw with the resister in the circuit?

A couple of tools that I find very useful to have in my tool box are a flexible four-claw parts grabber, and a small extendable inspection mirror.

Here's my advice: Know what you're selling. It's not a sea dory. It's not a C-dory. It's a C-Dory. If you can't even get the name right, you won't have much credibility with prospective buyers.

Fair enough Bob. I'm certainly not advocating that folks hook their breakaway system to the boat, especially if they feel at all uncomfortable with the operational or legal aspects of doing so. I'm just curious about the possibility. But, to address the scenario you proposed: if the boat comes...

Actually, Bob... you're wrong. And since you're in Florida, I made the effort to look up Florida law on the matter. You only need a functioning breakaway system if your gross towed weight (not your gross weight rating) is over 3000 pounds. Most unloaded C-Dory trailers would be well under that...