Replacing trailer bunk

C

C-Wolfe

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Sep 16, 2020
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Location
Anchorage
C Dory Year
2008
C Dory Model
255 Tomcat
Vessel Name
Callisto
I would like to replace the trailer bunk on my Ez-Loader for my TC255 and I’m debating about what to use. My current setup and the few similar that I looked at have a 2X6 next to a 2X4 and I’m wondering if that is like that for a reason that I can’t think of or if using a 2X10 would be the just the same. My plan is to install HDPE on top of wood board instead of the carpet that I curently have to help the boat slide a bit easier on the last couple feet. My local ramp is not deep enough to float the boat on the trailer, it stop more then half way on. The first few feet are quite easy but the winch start to get harder to crank on the last 3-4 feet. My other options would bee to use the engines, but I’m not too crazy about that, or extend the trailer thong, which might be nice but I’m not ready for that just yet.
I would appreciate any opinions on that.
 
C-Wolfe,
My 26 was absolutely a total pain to launch and retrieve. I removed the carpet and put 1/2” King Starboard on top of the wood. Now the boat launches and loads, like it is on greased skids. It was such an improvement, that it even did the same thing for my Maritime Skiff.
 

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Thanks srbaum, that’s what I’m hoping for, nice to hear that it’s working that way for you. Do you know how wide are your bunks?
 
I have put "slicks" onto several of my C Dory's trailers, but not entire length. The slicks are usually of High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE), Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC), Polypropylene or Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS)

As noted, they are very slick, and do not detatch the boat until it is where you want it to slide rapidly off the trailer---hopefully in the water, not on a ramp or highway, I always put two cross straps just foreward of the stern cleats, and across the bow, just in front of the cabin. I also put each port and Stb. side ratchet straps to the stern tow eyes, and a safety chain with turnbuckle straight down to the trailer frame, as well as the stardard winch strap.

This is advisable, because the boat can slide sideways off the trailer in a quick turn, or at higher speeds. Then you have a very dangerous situation.
 
Tom Hruby said:
We have a discussion on carpet vs slicks on the c-brats. Here it is https://www.c-brats.com/threads/carpeting-or-slicks-for-bunk-boards.32217/
Click to expand...
Not much positive information on that link, except one member who felt scratchs in the hull were caused by the slicks. My findings are that I don't get sand on the slicks, and not as much as an issue.

Liquid Rollers (or any) similar dry silicone spray on the carpeted bunks makes then much better to use, and I did every time.
 
Thanks Bob, I already use most of the straps you mentioned, might had a couple more once I get that done.

Thanks for the link Tom
 
C-Wolfe said:
Thanks srbaum, that’s what I’m hoping for, nice to hear that it’s working that way for you. Do you know how wide are your bunks?
Click to expand...
The wood bunks are 2x6’s.
 
Back to the King Starboard installation, I drilled and counter sunk stainless steel carriage bolts. Each fastener was lubricated with TefGel (Lanocote can also be used), to keep the fasteners from rotting). The King Starboard has sharp edges, so I used a 1/4 round router around all top edges. If you decide to use King Starboard (or most any other plastic), I recommend only using white. Though all materials expand and contract with temperature changes, any darker color will exaggerate that expansion/contraction.
Because the wood remains wet, from dunking, for long periods of time, the brackets that the wood is mounted to, rot over time. I did replace all mounting brackets and hardware. I lubricated all fasteners, as in the above paragraph and also cut plastic from milk containers that cover the top of the brackets. So there is no metal touching wood.
 
Srbaum, thanks for the recommendation to add plastic between wood and bracket, I did not think of that but that makes sense.
 
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